Project "HOT WRECK" 62 Short box DUALLY

[HOT WRECKS]

the shock mounting hole on the driver side was in good shape. But the passenger side was another story. A loose shock stud has hammered the hole oblong. So while the shock mounting section was out this is how |I fixed it.




here you can see the space above and bellow the 1/2'' copper tubing.



I welded around the 1/2'' copper tubing on the front side



and on the back side



I like using copper for repairs like this. Where the shape of the piece to be repaired is so odd that you couldn't do it gracefully in a drill press.

The great thing about copper is it conducts electricity, (so it can strike an arc on it) it's melting point is 1085 degrees Celsius 1985 degrees Fahrenheit so it holds it's shape while I'm welding around it. And you can't MIG weld to it. So after the weld cools I bash the tubing out with a hammer, grind the weld flat. Then give the hole a light dressing with a stone bit in a diegrinder.

you can see the removed piece of copper tubing in the top of the picture



And there you have it! a perfect 1/2'' hole. No drilling required.

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by HOT WRECKS

the shock mounting hole on the driver side was in good shape. But the passenger side was another story. A loose shock stud has hammered the hole oblong. So while the shock mounting section was out this is how |I fixed it.


Attachment 1380053

here you can see the space above and bellow the 1/2'' copper tubing.

Attachment 1380058

I welded around the 1/2'' copper tubing on the front side

Attachment 1380059

and on the back side

Attachment 1380060

I like using copper for repairs like this. Where the shape of the piece to be repaired is so odd that you couldn't do it gracefully in a drill press.

The great thing about copper is it conducts electricity, (so it can strike an arc on it) it's melting point is 1085 degrees Celsius 1985 degrees Fahrenheit so it holds it's shape while I'm welding around it. And you can't MIG weld to it. So after the weld cools I bash the tubing out with a hammer, grind the weld flat. Then give the hole a light dressing with a stone bit in a diegrinder.

you can see the removed piece of copper tubing in the top of the picture

Attachment 1380061

And there you have it! a perfect 1/2'' hole. No drilling required.

That is great work... Nice tip on how to do this... Thanks... Dan

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by HOT WRECKS

the shock mounting hole on the driver side was in good shape. But the passenger side was another story. A loose shock stud has hammered the hole oblong. So while the shock mounting section was out this is how |I fixed it.


Attachment 1380053

here you can see the space above and bellow the 1/2'' copper tubing.

Attachment 1380058

I welded around the 1/2'' copper tubing on the front side

Attachment 1380059

and on the back side

Attachment 1380060

I like using copper for repairs like this. Where the shape of the piece to be repaired is so odd that you couldn't do it gracefully in a drill press.

The great thing about copper is it conducts electricity, (so it can strike an arc on it) it's melting point is 1085 degrees Celsius 1985 degrees Fahrenheit so it holds it's shape while I'm welding around it. And you can't MIG weld to it. So after the weld cools I bash the tubing out with a hammer, grind the weld flat. Then give the hole a light dressing with a stone bit in a diegrinder.

you can see the removed piece of copper tubing in the top of the picture

Attachment 1380061

And there you have it! a perfect 1/2'' hole. No drilling required.

I will have to remember this...Learned something new today...

Originally Posted by Elliot949

That is great work... Nice tip on how to do this... Thanks... Dan

X2

[joedoh]

wow this is some outstanding work! I did the same thing, welded in the firewall and floor of a late model truck to keep all the pedals and systems and also repair all the rust and channel the truck to lay flat, and it worked out great! Your attention to detail is next level, what a great looking truck already!

[Bomp]

Incredible skills.
I am in Awe every time I peek in.

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by pimpston65

im sure if GM were to design a lowered truck they would sue you for patent infringement!!! you took what they had a made it work as if they would do it, very nice sir...

Thx that's exactly what I shooting for.I'm a minimalist. I don't like to ad anything more than is needed. I just move what is there to where I need it.

Originally Posted by joedoh

wow this is some outstanding work! I did the same thing, welded in the firewall and floor of a late model truck to keep all the pedals and systems and also repair all the rust and channel the truck to lay flat, and it worked out great! Your attention to detail is next level, what a great looking truck already!

it was back and forth as to either sectioning the 62 body over the 80 floor or notching the top of the frame. As you can see notching the frame won. If I had a better cab it probably would have gone the other way

Originally Posted by aggie91

I will have to remember this...Learned something new today...



X2

I have learned so much from this forum!! I'm glad I can contribute back

Originally Posted by Bomp

Incredible skills.
I am in Awe every time I peek in.

I'm always happy to see your checking up on me
It would be a super lofty goal but it sure would be cool if I could my HOT WRECK street legal. Not done but quasi street legal for your Aug 22 BBQ. after all your only one country and 15 hours away.I love Portland, Hazelnuts, and seemingly impossible road trips.
David Freiburger & Mike Finnegan from "roadkill" are my heroes when it come to road trips.
Heres to hoping you'll have a 3rd annually BBQ I'll be there!

[Bomp]

Originally Posted by HOT WRECKS

I'm always happy to see your checking up on me
It would be a super lofty goal but it sure would be cool if I could my HOT WRECK street legal. Not done but quasi street legal for your Aug 22 BBQ. after all your only one country and 15 hours away.I love Portland, Hazelnuts, and seemingly impossible road trips.
David Freiburger & Mike Finnegan from "roadkill" are my heroes when it come to road trips.
Heres to hoping you'll have a 3rd annually BBQ I'll be there!

Lookin in before working another Saturday. Geesh, Now my minds blown with the over the top frame work.
You're more than welcome to drop in at the meet up.
Man I'd die to drive that Wicked truck.

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by cooperhw

"WOW" that's all I got.


No,

Serious,

That's it.

Awesome. I had to chime in so I can find my way back (like leaving bread crumbs. I am subscribed.
You started to build a 1 ton dually short box. Is that still the end goal? If so I am so happy. I have started a 68 1 ton short bed step side project and thought I "was all alone out there". Would do my heart good as well as my sanity to think that I "was not the only one who thought this would look cool".
Anyhow, your skills and vision is cool as heck. An inspiration to me for sure

"Keep On Trucking".

There has been a few build changes along the way, as there always is. But my end goal has not changed. It still will end up as a 1ton short box dually.
I searched long and hard to get a cab and chassis dually truck for this build. So that I could have the 63.5'' wheel mounting surface to WMS axle. A single rear wheel axle is 67.5'' and a dually truck is extra wide at 72'' So I will not have a huge hipped dually with a 63.5'' axle I'm excited to see how it turns out myself

Originally Posted by Bomp

Lookin in before working another Saturday. Geesh, Now my minds blown with the over the top frame work.
You're more than welcome to drop in at the meet up.
Man I'd die to drive that Wicked truck.

You know when I started this project it was suppose to be a quick rat rod build. But it has quickly escalated to this full frame project. I would love to see this truck done this year but I foresee progress coming to a crashing halt again very soon

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by HOT WRECKS

There has been a few build changes along the way, as there always is. But my end goal has not changed. It still will end up as a 1ton short box dually.
I searched long and hard to get a cab and chassis dually truck for this build. So that I could have the 63.5'' wheel mounting surface to WMS axle. A single rear wheel axle is 67.5'' and a dually truck is extra wide at 72'' So I will not have a huge hipped dually with a 63.5'' axle I'm excited to see how it turns out myself

You know when I started this project it was suppose to be a quick rat rod build. But it has quickly escalated to this full frame project. I would love to see this truck done this year but I foresee progress coming to a crashing halt again very soon

Check out This step side bed I widened 6 inches this weekend to fit over my narrow dually short bed step side 68.

[HOT WRECKS]

-
-
this picture is a little bit older as you can see because the shock has not been moved up and all the suspension is still attached. But is documents my Z'd layout perfectly.



the top black horizontal line is leveled off the topside of the frame. then I measured down 2" this is the red horizontal line.This represents the amount that I will be lifting the front portion of the frame up. next is the two green vertical lines. there is not an exact location that these need to be placed. for my needs though I wanted to make sure they were far enough forward as to not disrupted the mounting position of clutch linkage. So after a couple test positions I found the location I needed. The distance between this two vertical lines is 1'' this represents the amount that the front of the frame will be moved forward. I'm going from 115'' WB to 116'' WB to help centre the front wheels in the fenders with my extreme static drop.
So there it is. The Z is inside the rectangle that the four lines make. Even though it not important it works out to be about a 50 degree angle it would be less if you move the frame forward less and more if you move the frame forward more.
So once I cut the 50 degree angle entirely through and lift the front frame section up, I will align the bottom the Z to the top of the Z and my 2'' up 1'' forward Z'd will be complete.



Here is the bottom of the Z on the front portion of the frame lined up with top of the Z on the rear portion of the frame



here a picture of the alignment from a little further back. the black line you see on the front portion of the frame is the original top line of the Z


now were on the D/S of the frame and you can see the alignment issues (same on both sides) that will need to be dealt with before welding. Luckily for me I will be splitting the frame at the top of my Z'd going forward. so for now I have cut a horizontal relief cut (see top of picture) about 4'' forward. that will make for easy work heating and tweaking the front portion of the frame to match the rear portion.


here is a good picture of the horizontal line where I will be splitting the front portion of the frame. you can see the shock mounting hole has been raised 1 3/4'' in this picture but as I said earlier it will still be moving it up another 2'' that has to do with what I will be doing next with the split frame. I will be also removing a 2'' strip out of the bottom of the 8'' frame to align the bottom portion of Z'd so that there will be no step there. Plus its just going to be to low after drop is complete
STAY TUNED!!

[89muscletruck]

Wow, this is awesome! Major inspiration for my C30 for when it goes under the knife.

[jonzcustomshop]

very nice frame work! subscribed!

[HOT WRECKS]

Time to split the front frame rails in half. Why??
since I removed 2'' out of the crossmember the upper control arm is now going to be 2'' higher than the top of the frame. And welding 2'' plate or box to the top just isn't me.So by splitting the frame and adding a 2'' strip in I will achieve.

-1- a nice flush stock looking upper control arm bracket to frame.
-2- the shock attaching point also goes up 2'' this matches the amount the lower control arm has been raised
( the 1 3/4'' that I moved the shock mounting point up the first time is to compensate for the 2'' drop springs I will be using)
-3- the steering box is also raised 2''this keeps all the steering geometry unchanged. ( will be altered very slightly do to the drop springs)
-4- better clearance between upper control arm and steering shaft




Here is the 2'' cut line that corresponds with the top of the 2'' Z'd which also corresponds with the 2'' that has been removed from the crossmember.
The 2 holes seen at bottem of the frame are for the new holes that I added to the crossmember



the cut is made, and the top section of the frame removed.




Here is the top portion of the frame.



topside view.


adding 2''

[pimpston65]

enough of the awesome frame and body mods, its time for the engine to be worked on, i wanna see a rolling chasis...

[HOT WRECKS]

^^^^LOL!!^^^^

You and me both!!!!

[HOT WRECKS]

Sorry pimpston65 more frame posts LOL!


front frame clip tack welded together



crossmember bolted in using lower holes so that the upper control arm bracket mounting holes can be transferred to frame.


holes all drilled. for control arm brackets. obviously the factory gussets will no longer work on the inside of the frame. so I will be making new ones that will also act as fish plates fastening all three sections of the frame together. Stay tuned.


backside all welded up, deep relief cut into the seam until joint line is gone. Ensures 100% penetration of weld.


2' plate added at step, just in front of crossmember

[pimpston65]

no worries, i will enjoy your welding skills til the engine work starts!!!

[cooperhw]

"WOW" that's all I got.


No,

Serious,

That's it.

Awesome. I had to chime in so I can find my way back (like leaving bread crumbs. I am subscribed.
You started to build a 1 ton dually short box. Is that still the end goal? If so I am so happy. I have started a 68 1 ton short bed step side project and thought I "was all alone out there". Would do my heart good as well as my sanity to think that I "was not the only one who thought this would look cool".
Anyhow, your skills and vision is cool as heck. An inspiration to me for sure

"Keep On Trucking".

[HOT WRECKS]

-
I decided to add date and facts to random pictures to show that I'm building in real time.



here is the trim line of the top portion of the Z'd



trimmed and capped



up next is installing the crossmember and building the gussets/fishplates for the backside of the frame.


.

[jonzcustomshop]

are you planning to re "Z" the front to drop the radiator/core support and bumper mounts?

[Justin@EntropyRad]

unreal metal sticking wizardry

[Bomp]

Since this amazing build started I've bought stock in grinding and blending tool bits and the stock has gone through the roof.

Diggin the date code on the pics.
Excellent Metal Skillz as always.

[HOT WRECKS]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

are you planning to re "Z" the front to drop the radiator/core support and bumper mounts?

Yes I will need to drop the front portion or the frame 4'' 2'' to compensate for the Z'd and another 2'' for where I split and widened the frame. I will also need to shorten it by 1'' the amount I moved it forward at the Z'd.
One mistake I made along the way was getting rid of the original frame before I completed the build. Hindsight, I really needed the front frame horns from the steering box forward off the 1962 frame. for proper bumper and rad support mounting. So I bought this truck for $100 Canadian $75ish American just for those frame bits. It runs and drives, even the 9' box PTO powered hydraulic dump works So I'm have a hard time coming to terms with the fact I must amputate the front portion of the frame to transplant it onto my HOT WRECK.

Originally Posted by Justin@EntropyRad

unreal metal sticking wizardry

Thanks

Originally Posted by Bomp

Since this amazing build started I've bought stock in grinding and blending tool bits and the stock has gone through the roof.

Diggin the date code on the pics.
Excellent Metal Skillz as always.

LOL! cut off discs, grinder discs, flapper discs, sanding discs Etc. Etc. I've lost count on how many I have consumed. You know some people can't stand the sound of nails on a chalk board, others can't stand the texture of removing the cotton ball from the top of a pill jar. And I can't stand the feel of grinder disc powder under my feet. Seriously can't stand it!! and I don't know why.I call it walking on a shuffle board effect. So I don't know what I do more of Grind/cut, or sweep.

[Evoracer]

Originally Posted by HOT WRECKS

And I can't stand the feel of grinder disc powder under my feet. Seriously can't stand it!! and I don't know why.I call it walking on a shuffle board effect. So I don't know what I do more of Grind/cut, or sweep.

Hahaha. I do this A LOT! The broom and dust pan are my most used tools. lol

[Bomp]

I use my push broom all the time too. Grinding and metal filings on the floor are like when I worked at Burger King (in high school) you didn't walk you skated on the greasy floor.
Killer deal and I mean KILLER DEAL on the '62.
I can understand not wanting to cut up the '62 for the frame horns but what I don't understand is why you don't build your own frame horns. With your skillz frame horns are like entry level into fab skills 101.
Another question too is even if you did lop off the '62s frame horns would you have to modify them some sorts to jive with all the rest of the mods or is a straight forward dealio?
AND........ '62s are welcome in August.
Thats about it.