55.2-59 Who Sells This Under Dash Valence?

[BBPanel]

NoLimit says:

Hello,
We are having trouble getting the dash extensions right now. We may list them again when they become available.
Thanks,
Tina

[62 Barnfind]

Originally Posted by BBPanel

NoLimit says:

Hello,
We are having trouble getting the dash extensions right now. We may list them again when they become available.
Thanks,
Tina

Do they have these back in stock? Do you have a link to the website?

[BBPanel]

Link appears to be dead:
https://nolimit.ecwid.com/#!/Molded-...tegory=6157546

Customer Service: customerservice@nolimit.net

[mrbuck]

Does anyone else supply these, I’d love to save some time and not have to fab one.

[62 Barnfind]

Originally Posted by BBPanel

Link appears to be dead:
https://nolimit.ecwid.com/#!/Molded-...tegory=6157546

Customer Service: customerservice@nolimit.net

Thanks. I wore them to see if they are going to have back in stock.

[56 3100]

finally got mind back from paint shop happy how it turned out.

[_Ogre]

Very nice! I saw your kick speakers too, can I assume you made it all?

[56 3100]

Hey Ogre you get a lot of the credit on dash panel i went by yours and went from there.It was a bit of work though but i stayed determined.. too bad fiberglass forums site you mentioned is no longer. i got the kick panel idea from that site.speaker kick panels are fleece stretched over a piece of panelling and mdf speaker ring. i had the infinity speaker in them before and sounds good.

[Dan in Pasadena]

56 3100 and I guess Ogre: So I guess you basically fabricated an under dash panel out or plywood, metal or cardboard, or some combination, THEN covered them with some kind of fabric like a Tee shirt or possibly fiberglas cloth and coating them with resin, is that right?

Was the fabricated part incorporated into the final product or did you use something as a release agent to remove it? If a release agent, what did you use?

[56 3100]

hey Dan in my pics you can see the thin plywood like panelling .it was used for main flat sections. Like Ogre mentioned cardboard mailing tube for bottom curved edge and corners. the fleece wasnt used on dash valance it was used on the speaker kickpanels.pg 3 post #55 shows some close up pics of mine.

[_Ogre]

Dan, I detailed building with fiberglass pretty well in my thread. You're building the part, not a mold, no release involved. Look at my build and ask all the questions you want there. More than happy to answer questions.
Better yet, just drive your cab up to Detroit and we'll make you some parts

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

....Better yet, just drive your cab up to Detroit and we'll make you some parts

I'll be right over!

So if I'm to build the part from a strip of say 1/4" plywood and make the bottom curve from a portion of a shipping cardboard tube - how would you mate those two different materials? Maybe cut a "rabbit" into the plywood and glue the portion of the tube to the plywood? OR I could make a 90* lower edge instead of a rounded edge using small aluminum angle iron much like I'll have to use to make a flange to bolt the valence to the underside edge of the dash.

Then I am concerned about how to transition smoothly from the flat panel following the curve of the dash to the upper kick panel? I'm thinking maybe a segment of a large diameter PVC or ABS pipe? Possibly curving a piece of sheet metal - again the concern about how to attach it to the plywood - HD construction adhesive?

I can tell making the part with differing curves, etc is the real chore. If I get them to hang together well enough to bond fiberglas cloth to them then they will be together forever.

General question: Are you guys more in favor of painting it body color or upholstering it to match my light saddle interior? Upholstery could hide a multitude of errors I suppose.

[56 3100]

dan i used pl premium .to join cardboard edges. the curved corners are cardboard glassed over to get rid of any wrinkles.

[56 3100]

dan i used pl premium .to join cardboard edges. the curved corners are cardboard glassed over to get rid of any wrinkles.

[_Ogre]

all of this is in my build thread
you can see all the pieces i used to make the transition to the kicks
big piece is 3/8" plywood, i did rabbet the edge to superglue 90° of 4" mailing tube
i used a lot of superglue with the activator during my fiberglass phase
glue it, active it and stick it. fresh activator will go fast and look like frost forming
the left side starts with plywood shaped for the lead edge
it's glued and screwed to the plywood that goes across the front
i glued some mailing tube inside to form the big radius
and pie cut the lower transition to the kick

notice that i did all my console, sub enclosure, column cover, and facsia on finished paint
tape and wax made it peal right off the paint
i probably put 5-7 layers of 3/4oz chopped mat on at this stage

column cover has a mdf yoke and mdf block for bolting on
4" mailing tube with label, i believe my bed strips came in it
i had just cut off the hi/lo beam switch cuz the plug was a bigassplug

[_Ogre]

no pvc pipe needed, nothing is structural until you glass it
cardboard, even thin t-shirt material, will get rigid with a little resin on it
then you start glassing. i rarely mixed over 6oz of resin at a time
flat curves i'd use 4x4 pieces of 3/4oz mat, tighter curves get smaller pieces
use mdf for mounting things, ac vents, cup holders, radio, switches, speakers, etc...

as you see, i went with body/dash color, i started out just hiding the vintage air unit
you can see some of the brackets i started with welded under the dash
the original console was bent sheetmetal, then i found fiberglassforums.com

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 56 3100

dan i used pl premium .to join cardboard edges. the curved corners are cardboard glassed over to get rid of any wrinkles.

I had to look up "pl premium" but it looks like the same thing more or less as Liquid Nails Heavy Duty Construction adhesive. Thanks for the info.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

all of this is in my build thread
you can see all the pieces i used to make the transition to the kicks
big piece is 3/8" plywood, i did rabbet the edge to superglue 90° of 4" mailing tube
i used a lot of superglue with the activator during my fiberglass phase
glue it, active it and stick it. fresh activator will go fast and look like frost forming
the left side starts with plywood shaped for the lead edge
it's glued and screwed to the plywood that goes across the front
i glued some mailing tube inside to form the big radius
and pie cut the lower transition to the kick

notice that i did all my console, sub enclosure, column cover, and facsia on finished paint
tape and wax made it peal right off the paint
i probably put 5-7 layers of 3/4oz chopped mat on at this stage

column cover has a mdf yoke and mdf block for bolting on
4" mailing tube with label, i believe my bed strips came in it
i had just cut off the hi/lo beam switch cuz the plug was a bigassplug

I did look through your thread and of course saw these pics and read your descriptions.

Actually, I think YOU can see all the pieces because you know they're there! I could clearly see the edge of the plywood but it hadn't occurred to me that you joined it to the long flat piece (with screws I guess?). I still don't quite "get" how the mailing tube is being used under that curved corner of the dash I guess because it's more tighter curved than the more gentle curve of the dash but I suppose if I bent it, back sliced it or maybe(?) moistened it, it would relax the tight curve. Yeah, moistening it is probably a no-no with resin/glass.

I suspect once I get all the pieces and start messing with them a way of joining it all will come to me. Good info on using smaller pieces of glass mat in tighter spaces. I suppose that's to elminate wrinkles?

I need to start thinking how the piece I make is just the thing the glass will cover and doesnt have to be EXACTLY the shape of the finished part on the back side as long as I make provisions for mounting it securely.

PS: The idea of glassing in place when I have finished paint IS scary to me. You're telling me you masked off anything you didn't want resin to get on, right? But newspaper would just absorb the resin so shouldn't I use a piece of thick plastic drop cloth? The tape holding the masking over the paint won't hold on freshly waxed paint will it? Or am I misunderstanding your use of the wax?

[56 3100]

hi dan my truck wasnt painted when i did mine. but i taped wax paper to the surface where it would met dash when glassing so it wouldnt stick to metal on dash.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wax paper? Man, you must be as old as me. I haven't even THOUGHT about wax paper since I was in grade school, ha ha.

But it IS an excellent idea. Does tape stick to wax paper? I don't know how soon I'm going to work on this project but I will definitely take pics when I do.

[56 3100]

Hey Dan i just used scotch clear tape or box packing tape to hold wax paper in place.

[_Ogre]

Look at my seat pedestal build pics. I taped over the carpet and fiberglassed in place. Unlike bodywork where you want minimum filler, fiberglass don't care. Anything waxed won't stick to the resin

[MD2020]

I tried to order one this morning from No Limit, "product not available"

HELP

Anybody have one they did not use??

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

I did look through your thread and of course saw these pics and read your descriptions.

Actually, I think YOU can see all the pieces because you know they're there! I could clearly see the edge of the plywood but it hadn't occurred to me that you joined it to the long flat piece (with screws I guess?). I still don't quite "get" how the mailing tube is being used under that curved corner of the dash I guess because it's more tighter curved than the more gentle curve of the dash but I suppose if I bent it, back sliced it or maybe(?) moistened it, it would relax the tight curve. Yeah, moistening it is probably a no-no with resin/glass.

I suspect once I get all the pieces and start messing with them a way of joining it all will come to me. Good info on using smaller pieces of glass mat in tighter spaces. I suppose that's to elminate wrinkles?

I need to start thinking how the piece I make is just the thing the glass will cover and doesnt have to be EXACTLY the shape of the finished part on the back side as long as I make provisions for mounting it securely.

PS: The idea of glassing in place when I have finished paint IS scary to me. You're telling me you masked off anything you didn't want resin to get on, right? But newspaper would just absorb the resin so shouldn't I use a piece of thick plastic drop cloth? The tape holding the masking over the paint won't hold on freshly waxed paint will it? Or am I misunderstanding your use of the wax?

dan, i missed your questions when you posted this. i made a quick n dirty drawing
first i had tabs welded under my dash, for a different fascia design but i made them work. i think i had 5 tabs under the whole dash. you can probable bolt on tabs. for the plywood i have the endcap that i just shaped with a 60 grit disk on a right angle die grinder, my favorite tool. and then the fascia piece, it goes all the way from the end cap to my column cover and is glued and screwed in place. the i drilled a hole for the bolt head to recess into 3/8" plywood and hammered the head in. i rabbeted the bottom of the plywood to staple and super glue a quarter of the mailing tube. i have an upholstery stapler, all the staples were too long, i used the right angle die grinder to grind off the poke thru. easy peasy

on the glassing picture: the light areas are wood, dark is cardboard. as stated earlier the 2 pieces are connected into an L, the mailing tube staples into the rabbet on the bottom of the plywood. for the curved potion i just winged it. the bigger piece on top in inside face of the mailing tube, staple and super glued to each side of plywood. the small pieces on the bottom are pie cut and glued in, nothing fancy, don't over think it. super glue with the activator dries instantly, apply the glue, place the piece, add a little more glue and hit it with the activator. if it doesn't look right, tear it out, grind it off and redo it. at one time i had an ac eyeball vent in this side of the fascia, it wasn't looking right in the curve so i glassed over it. easy peasy

yes, i did all this glassing on finished paint. just tape up and wax what ever you don't want glass stuck to. i had cardboard under me, newspaper under that, newspaper taped all over truk. plastic might get eaten up if you drop resin on it. like i said, don't over think it. it's cardboard and plywood, if you don't like it, toss it and start over.

[_Ogre]

4 tabs welded under the dash. you can also see the original fascia i had bent up to the left of the column. at this point i was building the center console, the dash is taped and waxed in the center. by the time i had the center console roughed in, i knew the plain jane fascia wouldn't cut it. plus the column cover was needed