Project: Montezuma

[KMC3420]

Here are the only ones I can find, but this was using an original fender cup. I cut the lower cup so the body trim covers up the weld line.

Before:


After the cut:


During welding/hammer & dolly:

[May70]

Wow that looks a heck of a lot easier than what the repro cup jobs look like!! That's a relief haha

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

Wow that looks a heck of a lot easier than what the repro cup jobs look like!! That's a relief haha

Yes, the fit was spot on and the angles didn't need any tweaking or slicing. Perfect length as well!!

[May70]

PS Fender corner rebuild continued...

I think the inside is good enough. Going to finish up the skin, the bottom all the way across needs to be replaced and there is a small rust spot I have to patch also. I think the hard part is done for this piece.

[KMC3420]

Looks good. Keep pushing forward. I am to the point where I will be pulling my old floor out in the next few weeks. Really studying your thread, thanks again for posting.

[May70]

I think that if I had to do this over again on a high hump floor, I would get the regular floor and just cut the hump out.... You place the high hump on the floor and trace around it, add about an inch for a flange to bolt it down to and cut it out.

I have seen that done several times and they didn't have to fight the inner rocker issue. No way they are ever going to fix the stamp for the high hump floor. It would probably cost several hundred thousand. Typical to just claim ignorance like Brothers does on their rocker stamps.

CORRECTION: I wont do this again, Ill pay more for less rust. hah. But seriously, this was a decision to learn the hard way by choice. Now that ive done that, the next project (if I have one) I will take measures not to have so much rust repair.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

I think that if I had to do this over again on a high hump floor, I would get the regular floor and just cut the hump out.... You place the high hump on the floor and trace around it, add about an inch for a flange to bolt it down to and cut it out.

I have seen that done several times and they didn't have to fight the inner rocker issue. No way they are ever going to fix the stamp for the high hump floor. It would probably cost several hundred thousand. Typical to just claim ignorance like Brothers does on their rocker stamps.

CORRECTION: I wont do this again, Ill pay more for less rust. hah. But seriously, this was a decision to learn the hard way by choice. Now that ive done that, the next project (if I have one) I will take measures not to have so much rust repair.

The floor I have is a low hump floor, and I will have to trace/cut out for the high hump. What is different between the inner rockers versus the low and high hump floors? Sounds like I may have lucked out and ordered the low hump floor.

[May70]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

The floor I have is a low hump floor, and I will have to trace/cut out for the high hump. What is different between the inner rockers versus the low and high hump floors? Sounds like I may have lucked out and ordered the low hump floor.

Ah, I thought I put more info up on that subject. As post #46 mentioned, the stamp for the high hump pan is wrong where the inner rocker channel sits. It sits too tall by more than 3/8". I measured 4 factory cabs at a friends house and all the measurements showed a 3/8" average difference. When measuring 3 places from front to back (between the roof drip edge and the inner rocker ledge).

For what ever reason the section on the sides of the floor than angles down, is not identical to the factory and causes the inner rocker ledge (where the top of the outer rocker sits) too high.

That is the reason I elected just to cut it out and make my own to fit the outer rocker (once they are mocked up).

I can only assume the regular floor repro does not have that issue because I have not found anyone that documented having to do this. Usually the only fix in that area is opening up the curves at the front/back where the outer rocker needs more clearance.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

Ah, I thought I put more info up on that subject. As post #46 mentioned, the stamp for the high hump pan is wrong where the inner rocker channel sits. It sits too tall by more than 3/8". I measured 4 factory cabs at a friends house and all the measurements showed a 3/8" average difference. When measuring 3 places from front to back (between the roof drip edge and the inner rocker ledge).

For what ever reason the section on the sides of the floor than angles down, is not identical to the factory and causes the inner rocker ledge (where the top of the outer rocker sits) too high.

That is the reason I elected just to cut it out and make my own to fit the outer rocker (once they are mocked up).

I can only assume the regular floor repro does not have that issue because I have not found anyone that documented having to do this. Usually the only fix in that area is opening up the curves at the front/back where the outer rocker needs more clearance.

That makes sense as I have seen a few other threads with floor replacements and was not sure why you had such issues with yours. That is why I asked if you cut your inner rocker off your new pan, but it makes sense now. I sure hope I dont have to do as much cutting as you do, kind of takes the fun out of using a whole floor

[May70]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

That makes sense as I have seen a few other threads with floor replacements and was not sure why you had such issues with yours. That is why I asked if you cut your inner rocker off your new pan, but it makes sense now. I sure hope I dont have to do as much cutting as you do, kind of takes the fun out of using a whole floor

And also on the note of documenting, I don't recall finding anyone who documented the high hump floor pan replacement in depth... There are so many variables that could change it that who knows.

What's also interesting is how some people get a great fit with unaltered repro rockers and some have to do what ive done....

[May70]

fender continued.

Using the other fender to rebuild my front cup.

[May70]

And more....

I actually decided to split the cup I'm swapping over for better prep. I didnt realize when I bought the last fender, but the cup actually did have some damage and filler....

Shop is a mess, need a cleanup day tomorrow.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

And also on the note of documenting, I don't recall finding anyone who documented the high hump floor pan replacement in depth... There are so many variables that could change it that who knows.

What's also interesting is how some people get a great fit with unaltered repro rockers and some have to do what ive done....

Yep, I can’t recall seeing a high hump floor install either. The aftermarket is flooded with parts, but none seem to be spot on. Gotta pay to play. It will be worth it. Your shop looks all too familiar. Mine has truck parts and wood working saws everywhere.

[May70]

Beating out the cup to remove all the stress in it. Need to make a patch now...

[KMC3420]

Boy, that’s a rough cup!

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by May70

Beating out the cup to remove all the stress in it. Need to make a patch now...

Looking Good

The more heating and cooling will make it Strong









.

[May70]

I used a shrinking disc in the process which helped it beat back into position. Not much heat though and pretty controllable.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by May70

I used a shrinking disc in the process which helped it beat back into position. Not much heat though and pretty controllable.

I have been looking into getting one of those kits.
Which one do you use?








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[May70]

I have the smaller proshaper for the 4.5" angle grinder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgS_zWdZz5g

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by May70

I have the smaller proshaper for the 4.5" angle grinder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgS_zWdZz5g

Thanks That's what I will get.
Wray makes very good video's










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[May70]

Yeah I will say its definitely no magic wand. Wray is a pro, he could make anything look easy. He says those disks are really only for 1/16 or less dents. Otherwise he uses a torch to do the quick work. Im pretty new at it so I stay away from the torch....

What change I do see is usually very slow. A lot of repetition.

[May70]

So the idea here is to build off the other fender (which has a inner cup brace still in tact to reference) then when I get it all buttoned up... Ill cut it off and put it on the fender im using.

[May70]

Okay,

The cup is all patched up, just need to weld the back side back on and its ready to transfer over to the other fender!

[doowoppwer]

i'm all eyes as i crunched that area of my fender. good work.

roger

[May70]

Continued.. decided to make the patch a little bigger because my fender had a lot of pitting above where I cut off.