Crash's 69 K10

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Crash_OK

Thanks Mike... Hopefully my transmission parts will get here before the weekend and I can get it finished. After that I will work with you on the on getting the Transmission to Transfer case adapter cut down... Will it take long to machine it down after I get it to you?
Have a good evening.

Won't take long at all. Maybe a 30 minutes?

[notsolo]

Originally Posted by Crash_OK

Thanks Mike... Hopefully my transmission parts will get here before the weekend and I can get it finished. After that I will work with you on the on getting the Transmission to Transfer case adapter cut down... Will it take long to machine it down after I get it to you?

Have a good evening.

Hey Mark ...Just got thru 3 1/2 pages of your adventure, how to make (remake) a junk yard truck into a show piece. anybody would be proud to own. Wow That's going to be a super nice truck.....Oklahoma Crude to Oklahoma Gold.. Ed.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Hey Mark ...Just got thru 3 1/2 pages of your adventure, how to make (remake) a junk yard truck into a show piece. anybody would be proud to own. Wow That's going to be a super nice truck.....Oklahoma Crude to Oklahoma Gold.. Ed.

Thanks NotSolo... It has turned into a much bigger project than I thought... Hopefully I can get most of the mechanical stuff done in the next few weeks and then start on the body...

[Vintage Windmills]

Just found this thread. You sure are taking the bull by the horns and getting this done fast and top notch! I wish i was this far with my K20!

One question, I noticed you replaced the front discs but are still using a behind the hub setup. Did you look at the more modern style of mounting on the wheel studs? I think I've seen those but don't the pros cons, or what is available yet. I am still researching all that.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Just found this thread. You sure are taking the bull by the horns and getting this done fast and top notch! I wish i was this far with my K20!

One question, I noticed you replaced the front discs but are still using a behind the hub setup. Did you look at the more modern style of mounting on the wheel studs? I think I've seen those but don't the pros cons, or what is available yet. I am still researching all that.

Thanks.. It was started out to be a long term project, that I let get away from me a little. After I finish up with he Drivetrain and Chassis things will slow down.. :-)

I did not look at a more modern style on the front rotors/hubs. I didn't even think about it... Let me know if you find something better than what I have...

Have a good day

[Crash_OK]

Today was a long day… Went early this morning to pick up some parts that MCBassin machined for me… Once Again Thinks Mike… Left there and headed to the shop. First task was to install new tail shaft in the 4L60e.

First step is to remove the bell housing. The bolts are a T50-Plus.. If you ever need to remove these bolts do not use a regular T50… you will see why a little later.




The bolts are installed with thread lock from the factory. Applying heat helps to break the bolts loose. Just put a little heat on the bolt. Don’t overdo it.. You can also put it on the outside of the case where the bolts attach.



Working by yourself requires some riggin…



Bellhousing is off..


Now you can see what happens when you try and use a T50 in place of a T50-Plus. I had to drill the head off of the bolt.





Remove the pan and filter.



Remove the TCC solenoid. You have to remove this solenoid to get to the TCC solenoid.






Pull the front pump.. this can be done many different ways.. I usually use a couple pairs of vice grips on the outer part of the front pump.. just pull up and work the vise groups back and forth.




This oil ring needs to be removed before pulling the pump.




Next remove the band and then grip the input shaft and lift the entire assembly up and out of the case.



Remove the rest until you get down to the snap ring.




Snap ring removed.. this is the one everyone talks about.. it is not that easy to get out, unless you have had some practices



The shaft could be removed at this point from the rear … however I went ahead and pulled it all out to look at the clutches and other parts..











Shaft is out.


Old vs new.


New shaft ready to go in…


Back together we go…





It is important to use lent free rags and also remember to use white lithium grease to help hold the thrust washer and bearings.

Time for the snap ring.. the shaft will fall out the bottom without this ring..




Install the band and then set the assembly back into the case. This is heavy and you need to make sure it gets seated correctly.







Next lower the front pump back into the case. Make sure the trust washer does not fall off. I used a couple of drill bits to help line the pump up..


Run all the bolts down.. just snug them..




Make sure you have some end play with the input shaft. If not, then something is wrong.. Everything was good in my case… Torque the front pump bolts to 18 ft/lbs

Don’t forget to install the o-ring…



Install solenoids and filter..

Clean pan and install gasket..



All finished..




Time to install the 4L60e to 700R4 adapter.. this gets us back to the TH350 4bolt flange for the transmission to transfer case adapter.



Now the fun part… I need to cut .500 inches off of the power coupler..



Success…






Transmission is complete..

Time to mate it to the engine..



And then the progress came to a complete stop… The input seals for the transfer case are to big… Got to have them to continue..


Decided to move forward with the Dirty Dingo Sliders…



All we need now is the seals and we can install the Transfer Case into the frame, and then install the transmission and engine…




Hopefully NAPA or O’Reilly’s will have the seals I need… But I doubt it…. If not, I will install some new u-bolts on the DANA 44, and install the rear Brake hose. Maybe I will start on the wiring..

Good night..

[Vintage Windmills]

Awesome progress! I just got those seals (for my stock 350 to np205 adapter) from NAPA but they had to order them, took 2 days. Did you buy the gasket between the 205 and adapter by itself or as part of a kit? I need to find just that one.

Also, where did you get those crossmember mounts in the last pic?

[mcbassin]

Wow! Mark, what a day. You got way more done than me. I know who is build my 4L60e if it takes a puke. Nice documentation and pictures. I hope to have one of these 4x4 trucks some day. This thread will be a how to step by step.

Looks like you got throught the coupler shortening without any trouble. Keep the updates coming.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Awesome progress! I just got those seals (for my stock 350 to np205 adapter) from NAPA but they had to order them, took 2 days. Did you buy the gasket between the 205 and adapter by itself or as part of a kit? I need to find just that one.

Also, where did you get those crossmember mounts in the last pic?

Vintage,

Thanks....

I made the gasket...

I can not remember where I got the mounts... I will look tomorrow and let you know..

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Wow! Mark, what a day. You got way more done than me. I know who is build my 4L60e if it takes a puke. Nice documentation and pictures. I hope to have one of these 4x4 trucks some day. This thread will be a how to step by step.

Looks like you got throught the coupler shortening without any trouble. Keep the updates coming.

Thanks Mike.... I may need a few more tools before I am ready to build one up completely.... :-)

Cutting the coupler was strange.. you could tell when you got to the hard parts of the coupler.... but I finally got it....

[Crash_OK]

Well, I went to Eufaula this morning in search of the elusive transmission to transfer case seals. After working with Michael at Oreilly’s we discovered that the seals are called Transmission output seals. Of course they didn’t have them.. but there were 2 in McAlester.. So off the McAlester I went..



Thought I would try the new heater this morning.. It really worked well…




There is an order you should follow to install the seals. The seals should be installed with the seal lip on each towards the Transmission and Transfer case.

First step is to install the seal on the transfer case side of the adapter.. install the seal with the seal lip pointed up towards the transfer case.



Next step is to lube the seal lip and transfer case input shaft O-ring with some white lithium grease and mount the adapter to the transfer case.


This was a good time to try out the shorty wrenches I got from lowes.. they worked great ..

Next install power coupler onto the transfer case input shaft.


After that install the seal on the transmission side of the adapter with seal lip pointed toward the transmission.


Time to mount the Transfer case to the frame.




After that swing the engine and transmission into the frame and bolt it up to the transfer case.



Then the progress all came to an end.. again…



The engine has clearance problems with the cross member… Dirty Dingo said this plates would solve all those problems.. Sorry.. they is not a plate made that can solve this.. This will require some fabrication.
I thought I would try to move the entire drive train back a inch or so.. so I unbolted the transmission cross member and moved it.. no luck …. We are hitting a different area now..




Also, both driveshaft’s will have to be modified with the cross member in this location..

So back to the original location.. more pic’s of the problem..






It does look good sitting there… to bad it ain’t right..



More pictures of the problem with the Dirty Dingo Sliders removed..





Removed the upper part of the engine cross member and still have problems..







Decided to install the transfer case support bushings, new rear brake hose, and new front spring u-bolts.. While I considered my options on the engine mounts.







This week while I am working on the solution to the engine mounting problem I will start on the wiring harness..



Looks good.. wish it was mounted up..



I guess I have a few options.. fab something up myself…, hire someone to fab something up.. or look online for another solution
.

[mcbassin]

I guess I have a few options.. fab something up myself…, hire someone to fab something up.. or look online for another solution

You think we could cut the necessary clearance needed to make it drop into place and then weld some new metal in to make the mounts solid again?

I'm wondering what mount thealien used on his build?

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

You think we could cut the necessary clearance needed to make it drop into place and then weld some new metal in to make the mounts solid again?

I'm wondering what mount thealien used on his build?

I thought about that.. I am sure something could be fabed up..

I think thealien is using this,








Not for sure.. I will PM him..

[notsolo]

Originally Posted by Crash_OK

Well, I went to Eufaula this morning in search of the elusive transmission to transfer case seals. After working with Michael at Oreilly’s we discovered that the seals are called Transmission output seals. Of course they didn’t have them.. but there were 2 in McAlester.. So off the McAlester I went..



Thought I would try the new heater this morning.. It really worked well…




There is an order you should follow to install the seals. The seals should be installed with the seal lip on each towards the Transmission and Transfer case.

First step is to install the seal on the transfer case side of the adapter.. install the seal with the seal lip pointed up towards the transfer case.



Next step is to lube the seal lip and transfer case input shaft O-ring with some white lithium grease and mount the adapter to the transfer case.


This was a good time to try out the shorty wrenches I got from lowes.. they worked great ..

Next install power coupler onto the transfer case input shaft.


After that install the seal on the transmission side of the adapter with seal lip pointed toward the transmission.


Time to mount the Transfer case to the frame.




After that swing the engine and transmission into the frame and bolt it up to the transfer case.



Then the progress all came to an end.. again…



The engine has clearance problems with the cross member… Dirty Dingo said this plates would solve all those problems.. Sorry.. they is not a plate made that can solve this.. This will require some fabrication.
I thought I would try to move the entire drive train back a inch or so.. so I unbolted the transmission cross member and moved it.. no luck …. We are hitting a different area now..




Also, both driveshaft’s will have to be modified with the cross member in this location..

So back to the original location.. more pic’s of the problem..






It does look good sitting there… to bad it ain’t right..



More pictures of the problem with the Dirty Dingo Sliders removed..





Removed the upper part of the engine cross member and still have problems..







Decided to install the transfer case support bushings, new rear brake hose, and new front spring u-bolts.. While I considered my options on the engine mounts.







This week while I am working on the solution to the engine mounting problem I will start on the wiring harness..



Looks good.. wish it was mounted up..



I guess I have a few options.. fab something up myself…, hire someone to fab something up.. or look online for another solution
.

Hey Mark I think this problem has popped up before, here is 1 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=479956 You will solve this I am sure. also keep looking for a cab, you might get lucky I know you can repair what you have but its still a ton of work and sheet metal patch panels. What you have done so far puts Mr goodwrench to Shame.....Ed

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Hey Mark I think this problem has popped up before, here is 1 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=479956 You will solve this I am sure. also keep looking for a cab, you might get lucky I know you can repair what you have but its still a ton of work and sheet metal patch panels. What you have done so far puts Mr goodwrench to Shame.....Ed

Thanks Ed.. I will check it out.. I bought a cab yesterday from a friend.. He done me right.... It will still need some work.. but nothing like the one I have now.

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Awesome progress! I just got those seals (for my stock 350 to np205 adapter) from NAPA but they had to order them, took 2 days. Did you buy the gasket between the 205 and adapter by itself or as part of a kit? I need to find just that one.

Also, where did you get those crossmember mounts in the last pic?

Vintage, I got the mounts from EnergySuspensionParts. The part number is below..

Part Number: 3.1106
Product Name: Transmission Mounts (2 Per Set)
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $51.41
> > > Color : Red
--------------------------
Part Number: 3.1107
Product Name: GM Transfer Case Torque Mount Bushings
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $16.99
> > > Color : Red
--------------------------

[Bus flyer]

Crash_ok

Great work! really inspiring me to get to work on my 70 3/4

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Bus flyer

Crash_ok

Great work! really inspiring me to get to work on my 70 3/4

Thanks...

[Average Joe]

Cool build!

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by Average Joe

Cool build!

Thanks Average Joe...

[Crash_OK]

Started on the wiring.. I kinda got in the dog house.. I decided to bring the harness back to Edmond to work on it in the evenings.. The only place I had to work on it was our game room… The wife wasn’t to happy.. but I have done worse




I am old so I printed the wiring schmatics I found on the LS1Tech site on to really large paper… It really has helped with the process.




After a few minutes trying to figure out how the covers come off… I got started..





















 
I have 5 un-terminated wires coming out of the Park Selector.. I need to do some research on them.. my guess is some of them would have been the neutral safety switch wires..




Tomorrow, I hope to start taping the harness back up, and working on a fuses and relay schematic.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Crash_OK

Started on the wiring.. I kinda got in the dog house.. I decided to bring the harness back to Edmond to work on it in the evenings.. The only place I had to work on it was our game room… The wife wasn’t to happy.. but I have done worse

I am old so I printed the wiring schmatics I found on the LS1Tech site on to really large paper… It really has helped with the process.

After a few minutes trying to figure out how the covers come off… I got started..

 
I have 5 un-terminated wires coming out of the Park Selector.. I need to do some research on them.. my guess is some of them would have been the neutral safety switch wires..

Whoa? You made that look too easy. I think I ended up with unterminated wires on that park selector connector too. I think some wires may be used on your cruise? Not 100% sure about that. I like the big schematics. Great idea.
Look forward to more pictures

[Crash_OK]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Whoa? You made that look too easy. I think I ended up with unterminated wires on that park selector connector too. I think some wires may be used on your cruise? Not 100% sure about that. I like the big schematics. Great idea.
Look forward to more pictures

Thanks Mike.. I think some of the wires have to be for the neutral safety switch. Not sure about the others... I still need to get the alternator wiring done.. I need to figure out which connector is the alternator connector.
I really enjoy working with wiring... I thought about offering a service on converting factory harnesses to stand alone.. But I really need to think about it before I make that commitment.

Looks like my cross member will not be here until Monday, so I guess this weekend I will work on installing the gas tank and start on the fuel system. I thought about coming by sometime and working on getting the cab unbolted from the frame.. Would that be ok?

[Crash_OK]

Tonight I finished up the harness.. I still need to terminate the wires that will be connected to the truck.




My harness had the GBCM on it, so I had to modify the harness by re-routing the alternator wires to the PCM. I used the existing alternator harness and soldered them to the correct leads on the PCM.





I also decided to re-install the oil pressure switch harness. I have ScanGauge (www.scangauge.com) in my Tundra and plan on using one in the 72. It will provide me all of the gauge data.



Alternator harness back in its proper place






Next step was to extend the 12V+ power on Run and Start back towards the other wiring.




Completed harness






Left over wires….



Tomorrow I will place an order for the fuse block and relays I need… Also, I will start gathering the parts I need for the fuel system. My new engine cross member will be here Monday, so it will be next weekend before I can get the engine bolted in. I also, purchased a set of trailblazer 5.3L exhaust manifolds from Tanner at B&R Auto Parts in Tulsa. This is the same place that I got my engine, transmission, and other accessories for the build. Tanner has been very helpful in getting me the parts I need. I highly recommend Tanner and B&R Auto Parts.

[mcbassin]

Nice work on the harness Mark! You knocked that out quick. That box with the wires looks familiar.
Nice score on the Trailblazer manifolds.