69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration

[wrwelton]

Congratulations on the wrecker find. It looks like it is in good hands. Just got my 72 back from the paint shop. Looks like we both will have a busy spring. Give it hell. walt

[scotteric]

Subscribed.....sweet truck

[coops714x4]

Ok Bob, it's spring, so what ya got done???

[bobs409]

Funny you should ask. I've been working on an update the past few days. I'll have one soon... Lots to talk about...

Thanks for the interest!

[bobs409]

Guess it's about time to do an update! Took some time off over the winter from this project but I've been getting some things done in the past month.

The main plan right now is to finish up the cab so I can paint the firewall and interior area. Once those are done, the fun begins. I can install the engine & transmission, the dash with all components, wiring, column, pedals, etc. This will allow me to fire up the engine and get the cam broken in. (and get alot of stuff out of my garage that I've been tripping on for 6 months!)

With that paint work done, I will also be able to reinstall the rear window and am going to have a windshield company come to my place and put in a new windshield. I don't trust myself with $230 dollars of fragile windshield glass! (back ones are no problem however)

The pics below show the cab getting sanded to bare metal. I used an 80 grit
sanding disc then etch primed. I did the same to the firewall. The cab & roof are very straight so once this is all done, I will apply a few coats of a 2K urethane high build primer and block sand out later. I will do this same thing to ALL body panels.

[bobs409]

I recently installed the new repro drip rails (pic #1) and they fit really good, better than I expected. The other day I resealed around the roof drip rails with POR patch. It's something new I'm trying. It dries very hard and won't crack so they say. I'm so tired of re-doing roof gutters on these trucks every few years due to failing seam sealer. (3-M fast n firm specifically) I'm hoping this will help to avoid that. I'll be using it on some of the firewall and door jam seams as well.

I went to Carlisle, Pa car show on 4/26 with the hopes of picking up a new badly needed cowl panel so I can complete that area but unfortunately, this part has been sold out for about a year now and is still not available!@#!. Goodmark must have shipped them on the slowest boat from China or maybe pirates got them. I can't wait any longer for this part so yesterday I removed my old cowl from the old firewall section I've been saving to re-use it. Lots of metal work will have to be done to it and I plan to get started on that today. The bright side is I saved about $250 but in the end, will probably even out with all the labor I'm in for. (see last 3 pics)

[bobs409]

While I shouldn't touch the box yet, I just couldn't resist getting started on it a bit. I'll just mess with this once in a while when the mood strikes me but not full time. The rest of the truck is the part I need to focus on right now.

I started out just cleaning the leaves out but somehow wound up getting carried away like usual. Shown below I used my engine hoist to stand it up on end so I could work on it easier. (this thing is SOOOO crazy heavy!) Got all the leaves out though!

Getting a better look at the bottom shows me I will have to replace the main frame rails as they are flaking badly between them and the floor plate. I got lucky in that a new place opened near me that sells all kinds of metal so I got 2 new C channel pieces for the rails as well as some 3/16 inch square tube that I'll cut in half to replace the cap trim that runs around the box. I am also replacing the metal rods that work the winch as the new rod is very inexpensive.

I cut out a section of the box as shown using my sawzall and a cut off tool but quickly found this thicker material takes a long time to go through. The perfect excuse to buy myself a plasma cutter! Got one from Eastwood and it works great! Cutting the bad spots out won't be any problem now! lol

I also decided it was time to buy an arc welder since I'll be working with thicker metals. I could use my mig welder but an arc welder is better for this. (and another excuse to buy a new tool) I haven't arc welded since I was in high school's metal shop so wasn't sure how it would go but I caught on very quick while practicing with it.

More to come...

[no moa]

lol, are you restoring a wrecker, or building a new tool collection? lol

[stealthy '69]

I like it. Keep up the progress, I can't wait to see it finished. I can honestly say it'll be the first wrecker I've seen restored. (or even in decent shape for that matter) Great build.

[wrwelton]

wow it is looking good. Ive been trhere and it is a long tedius process but gonna be a great truck when you are done.

[almstlo]

thats one hell of a task

[Shaun1162]

Lookin good!

[bobs409]

First off, a big THANK YOU to Tim (coops714x4) from this forum who donated a "flyswatter" mirror arm & bracket to the project. I've been searching for these mirrors with absolutely no leads almost since this project started! With that one arm/bracket, I'll be able to use it to make a duplicate for the other side. I don't have mirror heads but will put on a pair of painted rectangular 69 repro's. I think these originally had a mirror head design all their own but they can be changed easily later if I find the right ones. The important thing is I can do my door skins with the correct inner brackets now and not have to worry about changing anything later. (and having to repaint the doors!)

I know some of you don't like this style mirror and at first, I didn't either but it very quickly grew on me. I located some west coast style DG5 mirrors recently from a big truck and considered putting those on but to me, it's like bolting scaffolding onto your doors. LOL They are massive! And since this trucks heavy towing days are behind it, the small mirrors will do just fine. (and be original!)

Well now that this huge obstacle is out of the way, I've made quite alot of progress lately!

After a few days to revive that old cowl panel, I got it back in good shape again. Lots of metal work and 2 coats of POR-15 on the bottom side. (Pic #1) I also did the top part of the inner cowl with POR and then primed it before it fully dried. (Pic #2)

(Pic #3) shows the wetsanded dash panel getting a test fit. All was perfect so it was fully bolted and welded in. Notice the kick panels recieved a skim coat of filler to blend in the new lower patch panels.

(Pic #4) shows the completed cowl panel installed and black Eastwood seam sealer just applied. This is the BEST seam sealer I've ever used! Can't say how durable it is just yet but it applies like a dream! After using many different brands over the years, what a difference with this one.

(Pic #5) shows a new day where after getting everything sanded and cleaned, I applied a gray sealer coat inside and out.

Continued...

[bobs409]

After one hour, I was able to get a few coats of 514 Red (looks more orange to me!) (pic #1) I used a single stage acrylic enamel and added hardner to it.

My main focus here was to make the firewall, ceiling and around rear window, dash panel and door jams nice. (they recieved an extra coat and most of my attention) All other areas such as under dash panel & floors got a color coat but since they get covered up or unseen, I didn't fuss with them as much. (as the factory would have done)

I did not paint the outside of the cab (roof and rear of cab) as I want to paint all the exterior portions all at the same time so all will match. (next year)

(Pics #2, 3 & 4) show some more "after" color shots. This color acts weird in front of the camera. Depending on the light source, it does change shades. From what I've learned, this color will darken in time too.

I have a 71 Cheyenne 20 that's also this color originally. I may paint that one pure red instead of having 2 trucks the same color. (and I also have a 72 Chevelle that's Hugger Orange!) While it's a different shade, it's still close enough and don't want to overdose on orange!

Continued...

[bobs409]

I wasted no time continuing on. The very next day (today) I drug the old 350 (now fully rebuilt) out of the garage as well as that "anchor" SM465 transmission. This is one HEAVY tranny!

(pic #1 & 2)

After spending some time bolting on the bell, flywheel and installing the clutch/pressure plate, I "married" the engine and transmission together. (it was a small ceremony, just me and the new couple)


And here it is (pic #3) making it's way back into the chassis. (the engine tilter was doing what it does best in this photo) Not shown is how I had to jack the front of the cab up about 5 inches so the transmission would clear due to the cross member not being removable on these trucks and the tall top plate. Much easier to this way rather than install trans from bottom after the engine was in. (pics #4 & #5) show it all nestled in. And that's where I'm at as of right now!

Won't be long now until I fire it up!

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by bobs409

After one hour, I was able to get a few coats of 514 Red (looks more orange to me!) (pic #1) I used a single stage acrylic enamel and added hardner to it.

My main focus here was to make the firewall, ceiling and around rear window, dash panel and door jams nice. (they recieved an extra coat and most of my attention) All other areas such as under dash panel & floors got a color coat but since they get covered up or unseen, I didn't fuss with them as much. (as the factory would have done)

I did not paint the outside of the cab (roof and rear of cab) as I want to paint all the exterior portions all at the same time so all will match. (next year)

(Pics #2, 3 & 4) show some more "after" color shots. This color acts weird in front of the camera. Depending on the light source, it does change shades. From what I've learned, this color will darken in time too.

I have a 71 Cheyenne 20 that's also this color originally. I may paint that one pure red instead of having 2 trucks the same color. (and I also have a 72 Chevelle that's Hugger Orange!) While it's a different shade, it's still close enough and don't want to overdose on orange!

Continued...

cool paint. I passed up a deal for a 1959 chev recker boy do I had that.

[texastruckjunky]

Any new updates?

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by bobs409

(Pic #4) shows the completed cowl panel installed and black Eastwood seam sealer just applied. This is the BEST seam sealer I've ever used! Can't say how durable it is just yet but it applies like a dream! After using many different brands over the years, what a difference with this one.

Which version of the Eastwood's seam sealer did you use? The regular high solids version ($13/tube) or the 2k self-leveling stuff ($30/tube)?

I need to do my drip rail and am going to use the Eastwood stuff - just curious which one you used.

Thanks!
Curt

[bobs409]

This was just the cheaper black sealer. Time will tell how it holds up but for applying it, it was real nice.

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by bobs409

This was just the cheaper black sealer. Time will tell how it holds up but for applying it, it was real nice.

Cool. Thanks for the help.

Any tricks for applying it?

[coops714x4]

Bob, first you are VERY WELCOME my friend, (there wasn't any way I was gonna put that back on my truck) JK LOL that's what this forum is for to share and help....
GREAT progress, you make me look like I'm backing up LOL , its coming along nicely, keep it up and you'll have it finished before ya know it .
Since your doing a total restoration, are you going to put the lettering back on it, or leave it plain, or perhaps do your own "shop" logos ?? I think It would be real cool to letter it the way it was, and even cooler if the PO could see it and maybe sign the glove box, AAAHHH Americana preserved.
Oh by the way, what's this "next year" stuff, I wanna ride in it before then !! LOL GREAT TRUCK, GREAT PROGRESS. Coop

[RINC]

Its purdy !

Have you got pics of the mirrors ?

I'm a trucker by trade so I aint skeerd of no big mirrors

[bobs409]

Coop, afraid I won't be able to letter it at all! The laws here say it can't be lettered unless it's registered and insured as commercial. I've heard that I will probably have to put on "not for hire" on it too. If so, I'll do that on some magnetic sheet so it's easily removable.

So because of this, it's going to be the "brand new" wrecker look before old Vic lettered it.

RINC, first pics is of the DG5 mirrors I considered putting on. These are really big and would be great for towing but mine won't see much work. (thanks to the laws) Wouldn't mind doing a little towing to recoup some of my investment but heard it's a $3,000 dollar fine if I'm caught towing without all the permits, licenses and insurance!

Second pic shows what the flyswatter type long arm mirrors look like. (not my truck, just for reference)

[Gokart Mozart]

Originally Posted by bobs409

Coop, afraid I won't be able to letter it at all! The laws here say it can't be lettered unless it's registered and insured as commercial. I've heard that I will probably have to put on "not for hire" on it too. If so, I'll do that on some magnetic sheet so it's easily removable.

So you can't letter it but you have to letter it...

[bobs409]

This is a “catch up” update. Sometimes these updates are harder than working on the truck especially when I let them pile up. lol Starting where I left off in my last post, some of this happened a month ago or better but I will bring the story to current status.

I've been having so much fun bolting on new parts lately!

I wet sanded and buffed out the dash, roof and kick panels, then got to put some of the dashboard back together. A new gauge bezel sure brightened things up as well as a new glove box emblem & ignition bezel. While I had the cluster apart, I polished the lens so that too looks like new. A new dash pad was also installed.

The maroon color is not reproduced so my only choice was to vinyl spray it. I bought a new red one and changed it to the correct shade of maroon. Looks fantastic! I sprayed the top of the dash with a matching satin finish maroon just as the factory did. (pic #1)

I will be vinyl spraying the new seat upholstery and to freshen up the original maroon door panels too. This truck had a "color keyed" floor mat so it too will probably get the vinyl spray treatment. A black repro mat is just waiting to be installed.

I was a little skeptical about using vinyl spray at first but I did a pair of sun visors a while back and am very impressed with the turn out. Unless you were told, you would think they were always maroon and certainly not painted!

Of course as soon as this restoration is over, the resto parts makers WILL come out with all the maroon parts! LOL

The steering column I did in gloss maroon and it's at this time I noticed the 4 way knob broken off. (VERY common with these) Some repro turn signal switches don't have this red knob and also require a small adaptor for the wiring harness. That didn't fly with me so a trip to a local junkyard scored a good used one. A nice original signal lever was the finishing touch. Well, actually a nice steering wheel is still needed to finish off the column so the hunt goes on for that. The original wheel is just too far gone to repair. (Pic #2)

While it doesn't really look like much progress at this point, this part of the build seems to be taking a lot longer than I thought it would. It's the details that take so much time. Those are the things that will catch the eye so I'm taking the extra time to do all I can to make things correct now.

Another hold up is all the little things I DIDN'T know I still needed! I was certain I had everything I needed to put this back together and by looking at the pile of new parts I collected, you would have thought so too however everyday I find something else I have to order. Just the little things like fabric wire loom for the temp wire, correct tower clamps for the hoses, etc, etc.

There are very few things I will add or change on this truck as the goal is strict original but you'll notice the really cool light/switch panel I mounted to the left side of the column.

This truck had a very crude piece of angled metal with a few switches "thrown" in and no indicator lights. None of them matched and they weren't even sitting straight! (and don't get me started on the electrical wiring mess to go along with those!)

I found this really cool switch panel in an I.H. wrecker in the same junkyard I got this truck from. It's not homemade either as it had an Ernest Holmes sticker on it. I did shorten it a bit as it originally had 2 holes to the left where a PTO & warning light would go and I removed that name tag. (I can't have a Holmes name on my Wreckmaster!) (pic #3)


I will be adding an old brake light switch under the PTO knob that comes through the floor hump that will activate the red light on the panel when the knob is raised up to indicate the PTO is engaged. Not like I wouldn’t hear that chain “whirring” away on the winch to let me know but just for the cool factor.

On the other side of the firewall, I've been busy hooking everything up that will be needed to fire the engine up. This too is taking alot of time but worth spending now so everything is done correct. I even put the "R" back on the firewall above the heater box with a black grease pencil! It's the only marking this truck had from the factory and one of those details that will catch the eye. (I almost wish there were more factory markings!) (pic #4 and pic #5)