norms 55 chevy pu build

[dsraven]

have you tried a flap disc? they fit on like a sanding or grinding disc but work waaay better for removing rust etc. different grits but a 40 or a 60 works well for starters. they remove metal as well so be careful. faster than a wire brush and leaves a fresh metal surface. really good for a small disc grinder.

[one wing angel]

Thank you all for the replies and suggestions for making this sub frame swap just a little bit easier. As far as I am concerned you can never have to much educated opinion. Much appreciated ,
John P

[Scott2]

I just found this build. Cool project, nice back story and a solid, methodical approach. I really like getting the daughter involved. I drag my 15 year old son out in the garage when I can. He's really not too interested so I get him to help with small stuff here and there and keep hoping it will catch his interest.

Following along now to see how this goes.

A few more pics of the A would be fun!

[dsraven]

I may have mentioned before but will say again, ensure to install a decent cross member that will keep the cab mounts form moving, since the original trans cross memeber is removed.
looks good. keep posting those pics, it's a motivator to see others getting ahead of the job and seeing a light in the tunnel

[washington blue]

So when I get ready to put an engine and trans in will the trans crossmember be good enough? I don't know what I am going to use for a trans crossmember yet, or if I will have to build one or get one form a salvage yard.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by washington blue

So when I get ready to put an engine and trans in will the trans crossmember be good enough? I don't know what I am going to use for a trans crossmember yet, or if I will have to build one or get one form a salvage yard.

you have already cut out the original trans x-member. the original trans x-member also braces the cab supports, with the x-member gone and the frame cut the cab is probably sitting on top of the frame where the red arrow indicates. you should shim between the cab and the frame to bring the cab supports up so they work right

[_Ogre]

most frame manufacturers build cab supports into the trans support at the back of the trans

this is a roadster shop frame with big ol cab support bracing
whoa! big pic



total cost uses tubing braces to the cab supports



and this is how i braced my frame with the trans x-member for the cab supports on truk
1.5'' sq tube for the main x-member and 1'' tube braces to the cab supports
the center angle drops out for the rear trans mount

[_Ogre]

this is a fatman frame, art morrison is similar, no bracing to the cab support
but notice they also use rectangular tube for the whole chassis, this is a lot stronger than the C channel frame you have
even with my whole frame boxed i added the bracing to support the cab mounts

[7 Devils]

Originally Posted by washington blue

The story goes something like this. About 25 years ago my wife's grandpa (Rolf) was going to move to town as he and his wife were approaching 90. They owned this 55 Chevy pu.

Rolf had gotten it from his son (my father in law) who bought it in about 58 or 59 to drive back and forth to work at the local John Morrell plant in Sioux Falls SD. After about 10 years my FIL decided to trade for a newer Pu, when Rolf heard this, he bought it from his son to use as a farm pickup.

For the next 20 years it lived a hard life on the farm and also served as a shop truck because Rolf was a mechanic and did repairs on neighbors equipment and also did tractor work in his shop, overhauling engines or fixing what-ever was wrong with them.

When Rolf decided to move to town I asked if he might consider selling the 55 to me. He told me when he was done with it I could have it. About a year later the 55 came home to my house.

When I got the 55 it was a long box but Rolf had a 55 short frame that he was going to build another pickup from but had not gotten to it, so I brought that short frame home too.

The picture shows what I drug out of a corner of my shed after a 20 year slumber. I had done some work to it before putting it away which I will show in future pictures in future posts

Looks like alot of work to bring it back to life, but it sounds like the it's history makes it more than worth it.

Dan

[washington blue]

Thanks guys, this is not the original frame that was under the pu when I got it. This was a long box pu and I was lucky and easily found a short box frame near my place. The cross-member was gone when I got it, I put in the tube engine mount and was planning to drive it with the I beam axle 20+ years ago.
Ogre, really good pictures, I am planning to box the frame when I take the cab off and the way you built your cross-member/ trans mount looks really strong. The removable center piece is a great idea. I will have this cross-member in mind when I get an engine and trans and start putting them in. Norm

[washington blue]

The next thing I need to work on is the front of the sub frame. I have seen some builds where the front was re-worked so everything cleared the steering box and the front bumper was nicely mounted and raidiator mounts were nicely made, but of course I did not bookmark those builds.

[BIGglaSS]

Well, shoot... I followed the "No-Limit" instructions... No crossmember installed there.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=440771

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by washington blue

I am planning to box the frame when I take the cab off

just shim under the cab where indicated before welding the clip on
if you had the cab off they would spring up on their own

[59chev]

Here's what I'm doing for my bumper brackets.

The camaro subframe widens at the front in comparison to the stock frame, but I found if I swapped the bumper brackets from side to side it would fit with the stock holes in the bumper. It's just a piece of 2x4 box tubing with the a small piece of the original frame welded on. I used the original camaro subframe ears to make my core support mounts.

I'll post more pics to my build thread in the next week or so.

[one wing angel]

Nice job on the bumper and cradle mounts. the pics are much appreciated
I,ve attached a couple pics of another members application. Cant remember whose they are but also a nice clean job.

[washington blue]

Thanks one wing angel for those pics I really like the way he did the front radiator and bumper mounts.

[59chev]

Just make sure you mock up the front sheet metal before you start working on the bumper mounts. I had saved the same set of pics posted here ( of the silver frame ) when I as planning mine, but if I remember correctly the bumper on that truck is mounted upside down for a custom look. I mounted mine in the stock location ( just tucked in a bit ) which is why my mounts are under the camaro frame.

[washington blue]

Been busy working on the front end of the front end,lol. I want to have lots of room to build my mounts so I cut the Firebird frame just about 1/2 inch ahead of where the anti-roll bar bolts to the frame so I would not get any weld in the threads.

[washington blue]

Passenger side. I did not have to cut and bend in these 2 curves, it just seems to look better. Next, I guess I will have to figure out how to trim the inner fenders.

[washington blue]

Ogre, I peeked under the cab and the cab gap is about 3/16 from the frame to the channel under the cab where you put the red arrow in post 81. I am hoping it doesen't move when I remove the 1 inch tubing. Also guys, I am wondering about my steering box bolts, I notice the 2 on the bottom are quite rusty. Can I use any grade 8 bolts or must I look for special GM bolts? I also don't know if they are metric threads, the head is 5/8, thanks, Norm.

[_Ogre]

just stick a wood shim on top of the frame when you cut the tube out

my son drove his 68 elcamino from new hampshire to detroit, heading out to seattle
he asked me to help him patch some holes in the frame near the steering box
when we pulled the bolts out: 1 was similar to yours and 2 of them were rusted to .2'' (broke at first turn)
we were mildly shocked to say the least

summit carries them summitracing.com/parts/opg-c240404

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by washington blue

Can I use any grade 8 bolts or must I look for special GM bolts? I also don't know if they are metric threads, the head is 5/8, thanks, Norm.

GM used multiple different lengths. I pulled a bunch from 3 or 4 cars at the local u-pick. In the end, I had 3 that fit.

[washington blue]

I ordered 2 bolts form Summit and their ad did not say anything about different lengths, I hope they are right, At 18 bucks each I would hate to get the wrong ones.

[washington blue]

I typed the part number into google and it sent me to Jegs and there they are listed as 7/16 x 4 5/8 so I guess it's all good. Thanks Ogre for the info. Norm

[washington blue]

I made a cardboard pattern of roughly what I would have to cut from the inner fenders. Then I got busy and did some cutting.
I know I will have to do more cutting above the A arms but at least I can see somewhat how it is going to be.
I must get everything aligned and then plan for the all important front 2 mounting spots so I am thinking about that.