"Drum to Disc" conversions 67-70 pics and videos

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so one of these dust shields is the only thing that has failed me when powder coating, and I tried to powder coat this monkey twice, and it failed both times, what gives?

Thicker galvanizing .

[Gregski]

the shimmy shim shims got sum luv too (paint though, not powder)

[Gregski]

me trying to contact Clint Eastwood tech support, you can't make this stuff up folks:

[Gregski]

I live for these type's of tech support replies, note the personal touch, super helpful

[Gregski]

well shoot maybe a third time is the charm, so I took this one down to bare metal

[Gregski]

and then I powder coated it again, and although this time it took, ie the powder stuck, it dried all dull ie matt instead of glossy

and I powder coated a door hinge at the same time and that dried nice and glossy like all the other parts, so I have no idea what is up with this saucer and honestly as long as it's black and protected from rusting I really don't care

[Gregski]

so big day tomorrow all this stuff gets bolted on

Electruck EV Conversion Update 2 Front End Rebuild / Disc Brake Upgrade

[Gregski]

just adding this thread as an additional resource for the steering linkage part: TECH-FAQ: DiscBrake/Tie-rod End/Interchange

pic from Geoff with a G aka gcburdic 71-72 center link who informs us: "just another fyi....difference b/w 67-70 center links and 71/72 center link (holes are bigger...thus the reason for different inner and outer tie rods needed)"

[Gregski]

happy to report the final assembly has commenced and with the help of two great new friends and forum members without whom there is no way I could have done what we did today, we got the trans mounted, the cab mounted, and the crossmember installed (we could not mount the control arms as I am still waiting on the rubber seals

Fun Level: 11.2

[Gregski]

so picked up a center steering link today from a '72 3/4 ton

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so picked up a center steering link today from a '72 3/4 ton

Just an fyi,…c20/c30 parts are different than c10 parts.
That centerlink won’t work with your c10 inner tie rods.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Just an fyi,…c20/c30 parts are different than c10 parts.
That centerlink won’t work with your c10 inner tie rods.

Noooooooo, side by side they are exactly the same lengths and inner tie rod holes are larger on the 71-72 one as they should be, also the only thing I see on Rock Auto for the MOOG inner tie rod specs is that the C20 are longer

C10 MOOG ES403L Length Stud Center to End (IN) 8.740

C20 MOOG ES409LT Length Stud Center to End (IN) 8.858
Part number es409lt has a stud diameter at the top of .66 inches, a stud diameter at the bottom of .748 inches, and the stud thread is 5/8-18.

what did you notice that would prevent this center link from working with the C10

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Noooooooo, side by side they are exactly the same lengths and inner tie rod holes are larger on the 71-72 one as they should be, also the only thing I see on Rock Auto for the MOOG inner tie rod specs is that the C20 are longer

C10 MOOG ES403L Length Stud Center to End (IN) 8.740

C20 MOOG ES409LT Length Stud Center to End (IN) 8.858
Part number es409lt has a stud diameter at the top of .66 inches, a stud diameter at the bottom of .748 inches, and the stud thread is 5/8-18.

what did you notice that would prevent this center link from working with the C10

I was just going by the fact that the inner tie rods were different.
I guess it’s possible to run a c20 inner and a c10 outer.
I’ve just never done it.
Plus I didn’t know if the pitman and idler arms were the same.
All of my disc brake write up was for c10s because that’s where the bulk of the questions were from.

I’ll be interested to see what you find out.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I was just going by the fact that the inner tie rods were different.
I guess it’s possible to run a c20 inner and a c10 outer.
I’ve just never done it.
Plus I didn’t know if the pitman and idler arms were the same.
All of my disc brake write up was for c10s because that’s where the bulk of the questions were from.

I’ll be interested to see what you find out.

I just plan on running both C10 inner and outer tie rods in this supposed C20 center link (with these old trucks I don't trust anything especially without part numbers on it, and this truck had after market tubular lower control arms that were hacked and lowered and welded all up funky so who knows what other steering parts it had)

[Gregski]

so both upper and lower control arm seals showed up today from Classic Parts and they seem hefty and pretty nice, we shall see how they fits

[Gregski]

and here's how the Classic Parts uppers compare to the flimzy junk LMC tries to pass on as their uppers

[Gregski]

used an impactor to press the lower control arm ball joints

[Gregski]

got the old 67-70 upper and lower control arms mounted as well as the new 71-72 spindles

[Gregski]

test fitting the A5 inner bearing (heavy duty) and the A3 outer bearing

[Gregski]

so nice to put clean bits back on

[Gregski]

test fitted the 1 1/16" stabalizer bar, this is an optional component I decided to add, felt it was as good of a time to deal with it now rather than later

tell us if you are running a anti sway bar and if it made a difference for you?

[Gregski]

and here she is back on her feet - and I couldn't be happier

yes we are building a 100% electric truck here: My Dusty 71 GMCe Electruck

[Gregski]

now I gotta deal with this junk, I know I will need a new proportioning valve one designed for drum/disc brakes instead of the drum/drum one, but can I salvage any of the original tubing, donno yet, I will let you know after I transfer all that dirt and grime off them parts and on to my face

[Gregski]

a little motivation

WILWOOD Combination Proportioning Valve (pronounced: adjustable)

[Gregski]

me going to plumb the brakes