72 K30 Build

[Cash3481]

Late to this build but I'm in for the rest!

[swamp rat]

Not sure about the K30, but my K20 didn't have enough room to install the HEI, the engine being in the rear frame mounting holes, so i went with a Mallory Unilite, its the size of the stock distributor.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Cash3481

Late to this build but I'm in for the rest!

Your right on time Mike just getting started.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Not sure about the K30, but my K20 didn't have enough room to install the HEI, the engine being in the rear frame mounting holes, so i went with a Mallory Unilite, its the size of the stock distributor.

I'm thinking this might be the same deal.

[Maxxd07]

Subscribing to add ideas for another dream of mine!

[7dee2]

I thought there was a really good chance we were going to have to cut out the floor of this cab to clear the transmission, again due to 4x4 engine set back. The body is siting roughly 2” off the top of the K3500 frame rails and that is giving us plenty of clearance for this step even with the low floor. The RV cab we are planning on using is a high hump but I didn’t want to use it for this phase of the mockup because we need to repair the pass thru. It would really be a shame to tweak it trying to lift it by the roof when I have this other cab available. Also another shot of how close the pan is to the front crossmember. I'm kind of wondering if the square body big block pan is shallower than this 72 oil pan?

[7dee2]

So little to no gap in the wheel well and again inner fenders look like they were made for this frame! Tire does sit a little forward in the opening (1.5" or so) but we can live with that. Also not a lot of frame rail exposed under the cab. Trying to build the truck so it looks like it came that way from the factory.

[mjensen]

Wow! Looky there! You're probably going to have that thing on the road before I figure out what I'm going to do with my flywheel and clutch!

[7dee2]

My old school build will be easy compared to your high tech stuff Mike!

[mjensen]

It's the old school stuff that's holding me up

[7dee2]

So the next item up is to start repairing the pass thru on the RV cab. First off we need to find a new storage spot for my mirror collection and misc. stuff.

[7dee2]

Here are some shots of what we are starting with.

[swamp rat]

The part i have been waiting for huh?

[7dee2]

Yep, time to see if we can save the RV cab.

[7dee2]

Patch panels acquired earlier from budnikguy. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=15

[7dee2]

Let’s see how bad this is. Those camper guys had some big stones to do this to a new truck back in the day!! Last pic we had to grind the carriage bolt heads off to get the angle iron frame out.

[7dee2]

They left some of the inner roof skin and just rolled it back.

[7dee2]

They cut and crushed the inner back panel.

[7dee2]

Last shots of the carnage!

[Dieselwrencher]

I think I'd just cut it past all the damage and weld you patches in instead of trying to straighten their mess out.

[swamp rat]

^^ x2!

[71blksuper4x4]

You should be fine.....it don't look that bad. Trevor

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I think I'd just cut it past all the damage and weld you patches in instead of trying to straighten their mess out.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

^^ x2!

I agree with you guys! X3

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

You should be fine.....it don't look that bad. Trevor

Good that's what I thought also. If I had your skills Trevor it would already be done. One of my friends told me to slap my patch panels on there with screws and silicone! (He was kidding I think?)

[7dee2]

Another suggestion was using a flange type of repair rather than a butt weld. I thought that was a pretty good idea as it is a little more forgiving when or if you cut your patch short. Might even make the repair stronger with a flange? Picked up this pneumatic punch/flange tool from HF and started to play around with it.

[swamp rat]

I just had an idea but keep in mind i'm not a body man and never used it...

When i was getting ready to do my gas door my uncle also recommended using a flanging tool, but he also recommended using automotive body adhesive like is used in the newer body repair, i don't know anything about it but think its probably a 2 part epoxy?

Maybe there is just too muck area to assemble and squeeze into place tho not sure. Then how to squeeze it all into place? Cleco's perhaps?

http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=...d&w=Cleco&rk=3

Ether way i like the flanging idea and agree i think it will be helpful to keep it ridged.

[DWilbur]

I bought the same flange tool from HF as well. it worked good for punching hole to spot weld parts together. my builder trims the part about 1/2" bigger and steps a flange in it makes for a stronger joint and you don't have the warping issues from but welding sheet metal together.