56 pro touring build

[hotrodrookie]

Nice aquirements, I've been using the red Harbor Feight band saw and its starting to crap out on me, Im sure you wont be disapointed with your Wells.

[hotrod1]

BC Toy Chest: If everything works out OK, I probably will only have to change the bands, steels, and sprag. What special tools do u recommended?

[BC Toy chest]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

BC Toy Chest: If everything works out OK, I probably will only have to change the bands, steels, and sprag. What special tools do u recommended?

Intermediate Clutch Piston Compressor , Table Mounted Spring Compressor, Clutch assembly and final drive remover/installer tool , and a pump puller. I was told the pump puller fits 700R4 / 4L60 / 4L60E / 4L80E & Turbo 350 but I am not sure you will have to ask around. 4L80E internal wiring harness removal tool, Not certain you will have to have it. Maybe bushing drivers.

[hotrod1]

Finally done with the transmission (4l80e).

Not the most fun we have had and not the simplest either.

1st of all buy the book for 20 something dollars (ebay). Study it well before you start. It was like foreign language to us. A lot of parts in a small area.

Good web sites:

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...d.php?t=396429 Good build. This guy did a good job explaining.

https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.a...smission=4L80E Good blow-up diagram

http://www.transmissioncenter.org/4L...Up_Diagram.htm Another good blow up diagram and a good company to get parts from as well

We rebuilt it with Alto Red clutches and Kolene steels. I ended up getting them from Idaho Transmission Wharehouse. I ordered #34661F filter for $5, SP3400GXX Master rebuild kit with alto parts and gaskets/O rings. $369. Talk to Rebecca. By the way, Alto has good phone support. Call them if you have a question about the install of their product.

Also installed Transgo HD2 lit from Summit. Transgo has a VIDEO install video. http://www.transgo.com/video.php If you have any issues they have good phone tech support.

Before doing this we scrubbed the case and wire wheeled it to get it clean. Painted it with three coats of POR 15 (great stuff).

The biggest suggestion that I have is that you take pictures of EVERY SECOND OF THE DISASSEMBLY. Important to know where everything goes, like separator washers between the components. Set up all components on the floor on cardboard in the sequence that they were removed. MORE PICTURES. You can always delete them later.

For reassembly we hung the case from the ceiling joists in the garage so the opening is facing up. Used tie down straps. Worked well. There will be times that you need to set the case down so have a good table to put it on. Hope that you feel strong because you will need it.

We will be able to tell if we did a good job when we hook it up to the motor (in about 3 years?). Keep your fingers crossed. Need it to hold 650hp. Should not be a problem.

[BC Toy chest]

Good job, knew you could do it.

[hotrod1]

This is a no limit motor mount that we notched to fit around the power steering rack. I had a hard time seeing what everybody else has done that has used this kit. So here it is.

[hotrod1]

Here is the motor mocked up. Had to get a lS2 oil pan because the LQ4 pan was too deep (by 2 1/2 inches).

Finally a rear end. Currie Ford 9" true track, 3.50 gears. Wont EVER have to worry about it being the weak link. Yea!

[hotrod1]

Brakes!!!

We compared the wilwood to baer. Baer are machined from billet and are really built. Wilwood are not bad but are not made as nice. Baer are more expensive but I can see why. The fronts look like they can stop a train.

[hotrod1]

Here they are mocked up (not permanent) just to look at fit. The picture of the front looks like the wheels are not centered. OPtical illusion and was taken from an angle.

[Kim57]

Looking good hotrod1.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Ok, we had to return the Foose wheels. Just would not fit the hubs. Then looked at other options out there. Really liked the Boss 338. Found a place local that had one and brought it home. Did not fit.....Hub too long once again. Finally went down the road of my first choice, BOZE alloys Lateral "G" rim. 18x8 and 19x10 both with 0 offset. Picked them up the other day. Beautiful rims and nice craftsmanship. We decided that we want all black so they will be going to the powder coaters. Hard dilemma as they are so beautiful the way they are.

[Kim57]

Nice looking wheel.
I like the idea of all black on them.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Rims back from the powder painter. NICE. Went down and put Hankook tires on them. 235/40/18 fronts and 285/35/19 rears. My credit card is getting hot from usage.

Oh, forgot to mention that we are building a Takacs tubing bender for all the roll cage and misc stuff. It is taking time away from direct car stuff but need it for the next step.

[ratty 46]

Great choice to powder paint them black!! Looking good.

Ratty 46

[Kim57]

The wheels came out great.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Finally finished the bender. A lot of work. I think that we made every mistake that you could make in building it, but it still works great. TIG'd everything for the experience. Learned that TIG welding things together creates a lot more heat than MIG which causes things to twist and be distorted easier (at least for this thick of steel). You have to account for things a head of time before you stick it all together.

The thing is air controlled. Just connect the air compressor and press the trigger and it does all the work.

Now to learn how to bend tube and account for the material pull and stretch. I am sure that we will waste our fare share of tubing in the process.

[xpickup]

hotrod1, Nice bender. I built mine to. Mine is a little different it has a following bar, but it is nice to just pull the trigger and it starts bending. Because mine is air over hydraulic like yours. I use a digital 8 inch level (craftsman), zero it out and start bending and just check the degrees. Over bend a little because it springs back.

Shannon

[hotrod1]

xpickup, what have you bent? Any pictures or any other suggestions?

[xpickup]

hotrod1, I made a 1 5/8 die and I use .134 wall tube. I did build a double 1 5/8 chassis with Mustang 2 front susp. and air ride 4 bar. But did not get to finish because the owner lost his job. I did a roll bar in a Mustang, and a couple of trans crossmembers. I also bend 1 x 1 .125 square tubing in it. I will see if I have any pictures of the frame.

Shannon

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

Now to learn how to bend tube and account for the material pull and stretch. I am sure that we will waste our fare share of tubing in the process.

One thing you'll find when you start bending tube, is that you really don't waste very much. If it doesn't work for the part you start out building, it will work for a part you'll make down the road. I always mark the start of my bend on the tube with a reference point on my die, so that if I need to bend it further later, I know right where to start.

[hotrod1]

Thanks for the advice. I need to make my die start marks.

Started the main hoop for the cage. Not that hard yet but I imagine the main hoop cross bar will be difficult.

[Kim57]

That's pretty slick.
Kim

[sgtusmc]

Bender & wheels look great man!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks like the truck is really comming along..

[hotrod1]

FRENCHBLUE72: It is coming along, just slowly. Dont seem to have the time that I need. Thanks for the view.