HEI Ignition Problem

[nrb's70gmc]

when i pulled the sock out i took it off the pickup tube (fuel) and actually it was fairly clean ( i cleaned it again anyway) and it was intact as well, it was also flexible-there were no holes either ---so i guess someone changed it before i bought the truck--

i put the new fuel filters on also today (i think the timimg is way retarded because it was a dog) and it was runnin really crappy

i retimed the motor to 8 degrees btdc---well test it tomarrow

[nrb's70gmc]

i hope im getting to the end of this problem

[72swb_327stroker_?]

Check the air/fuel mixture screws. they may have backed out a little by engine vibration and could be throwing off the idle once it warms up. This has happened to me before on my 68 442 with an edelbrock 1407.

I hope its just something simple, and your back on the road tomorrow!

Good luck bro.

[highperf4x4]

It's too bad you don't have another dizzy to drop in there to see if it helps.

What have you not changed yet? Spark plugs? Fuel pump? Wires? Coil?

Do you have a compression gauge?

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by 72swb_327stroker_?

Check the air/fuel mixture screws. they may have backed out a little by engine vibration and could be throwing off the idle once it warms up. This has happened to me before on my 68 442 with an edelbrock 1407.

I hope its just something simple, and your back on the road tomorrow!

Good luck bro.

Thanks man, i just cant catch a break with this problem--

has anyone here ever had a vacum advace go bad? when i was timing the motor i unplugged the advance and the timimg did not move at all (plugged with my finger or open) the idle speed did not change at all either.

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by nrb's70gmc

Thanks man, i just cant catch a break with this problem--

has anyone here ever had a vacum advace go bad? when i was timing the motor i unplugged the advance and the timimg did not move at all (plugged with my finger or open) the idle speed did not change at all either.

With the carb you're running the vacum advance is probably connected to the "timed" port. So it doesn't advance until you move the throttle.

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

It's too bad you don't have another dizzy to drop in there to see if it helps.

What have you not changed yet? Spark plugs? Fuel pump? Wires? Coil?

Do you have a compression gauge?

i have not changed the vacum advance-wires,plugs
i have a new coil in there (2 months old)
visualy the wires look good as well as the plugs

the vacum advance is the only original part left on the dist..

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

With the carb you're running the vacum advance is probably connected to the "timed" port. So it doesn't advance until you move the throttle.

i dont understand what that means, but the vacum advance is plugged into the carb (left hand side when looking at the carb. (the right hand side vacum port (or what ever it is) has a cap on it

[highperf4x4]

The vacum advance won't cause the engine to run as bad as what you're experiencing. There would be a minor loss in power and fuel mileage but not much.

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

The vacum advance won't cause the engine to run as bad as what you're experiencing. There would be a minor loss in power and fuel mileage but not much.

i have replaced the fuel pump as well but not recently ( a guy at kragen was telling me it may be the fuel pump) causing all thisd as well.

he said when it gets hot it will just stop pumping

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by nrb's70gmc

i dont understand what that means, but the vacum advance is plugged into the carb (left hand side when looking at the carb. (the right hand side vacum port (or what ever it is) has a cap on it

You have 2 ports on the front of the carb. The passenger side is a "timed" port. That means it doesn't supply vacum unless the throttle is pushed. The "full" vacum port on the driver's side will supply vacum all the time. You will normally use the timed port.

[72swb_327stroker_?]

Here goes a pdf manual for any 1403-1413 series edelbrock carb.
This always comes in handy!Edelbrock Performer series carb manual

I still think this is more fuel related than ignition... but they are so similar, symptom-wise it is hard to diagnose.

[neba]

a clear plastic fuel filter is less than 5 dollars and a easy way to see if your getting fuel. you can eliminate tank sock, fuel pump, or clogged lines. your problem is either fuel or spark. this will cut your search in half. if your engine stalls.open the hood and look at filter. if its empty you know its a fuel problem.

[jdstx]

[QUOTE=nrb's70gmc;3894169]

one thing i cant understand
i have always had the dist dust cap (mallory sticker) sitting straight across like west/east--- it was parallel with the fire wall


This won't solve the problem, plenty posted on that already, however....
If the engine was turned with the dist. pulled, the oil pump shaft does not rotate. When the dist. is reinstalled it may not clock to the original position when it engages the pump shaft. An oil primer can be used to manually rotate the pump shaft a little at a time to get things to line up the way you want them. To avoid this, find #1 TDC before pulling the dist.

[nrb's70gmc]

[quote=jdstx;3899850]

Originally Posted by nrb's70gmc

one thing i cant understand
i have always had the dist dust cap (mallory sticker) sitting straight across like west/east--- it was parallel with the fire wall


This won't solve the problem, plenty posted on that already, however....
If the engine was turned with the dist. pulled, the oil pump shaft does not rotate. When the dist. is reinstalled it may not clock to the original position when it engages the pump shaft. An oil primer can be used to manually rotate the pump shaft a little at a time to get things to line up the way you want them. To avoid this, find #1 TDC before pulling the dist.

yes me to that is how mine has always been also , except the last time i put the dist in.

i get the #1 plug at tdc but when i put the cap on the dist. the rotor wont line up with the #1 post on the cap (when the cap is parralel) it bothors me because it just looks funny.

right now im just concernd about getting it running good again-

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by neba

a clear plastic fuel filter is less than 5 dollars and a easy way to see if your getting fuel. you can eliminate tank sock, fuel pump, or clogged lines. your problem is either fuel or spark. this will cut your search in half. if your engine stalls.open the hood and look at filter. if its empty you know its a fuel problem.

a clear fuel filter is what i use all the time (just put a new one on yesterday)

[72swb_327stroker_?]

any news yet?

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by 72swb_327stroker_?

any news yet?

dude its 20 degrees outside lol, but im thinking/hoping it is a fuel pump problem. i have a lot of things to do today. besides my truck.

alot of people are thinking its a fuel problem

i did go outside and hooked up some LED license plate bolts then my fingers were freezing.

i will let ya know monday or tuesday.

[72swb_327stroker_?]

wow! thats cold as $h$#!

Damn, well hope all turns out well for ya!

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by 72swb_327stroker_?

wow! thats cold as $h$#!

Damn, well hope all turns out well for ya!

will let ya know for sure!!!

[mdwilf]

Could be the vacuum advance - take the cap off & if you don't have a vacuum tester, just put a hose on the vac adv & suck on it - you should see things move inside. If not, it's bad.

[nrb's70gmc]

UPDATE-

i started the truck up and was watching the fuel filter, it was full the whole time (including when the truck died a few times)

i have never had the truck die like that before just sitting (idling-warming up)

so i re checked the timing and it was at 4d btdc i was told 8d btdc was a good spot to start at.

so i timed it to 8d (was idleing way better and smoother) i let the truck warm up- i pulled out of the drive way and i felt the same old problem (hesitation,running out of fuel type feeling) so i pulled back in put it in park and was reving the motor at high rpm the motor is back firing or sputtering (i have never had this problem before either)

like i said the fuel pump is pumping the fuel because my fuel filter was full-

do these edelbrock carbs have a internal fuel filter? ware the fuel inlet is?

[nrb's70gmc]

UPDATE
i guess the performer carbs dont have a internal filter (i checked mine)

earlier today when i had the engine running i was under the hood and the motor stalled i noticed a puff of whitish smoke came out of the carb (fuel filter was full)

now i know the both my modules tested fine but someone also said there modules tested fine also but they turned out to be bad.

guys im so confussed,lost,upset,pissed off
im a pretty mellow guy but when things like this happen (unknown engine problem) it is so damn hard to keep my cool.

[nrb's70gmc]

Originally Posted by mdwilf

Could be the vacuum advance - take the cap off & if you don't have a vacuum tester, just put a hose on the vac adv & suck on it - you should see things move inside. If not, it's bad.

i blowed and sucked on the line and i could hear things moving

[nrb's70gmc]

could a alternater going bad cause these problem?? i have a 10 gauge wire