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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Jose Ca
Posts: 965
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
I made the same mistake as you did when I signed up and posted in the wrong section for my build. One of the modrators will move it for you like they did my build thread. At the top of the home page you can become a premium member by clicking subscribe button
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#2 |
Registered User
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Location: Elverta, California
Posts: 104
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
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#3 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edwards, CA
Posts: 7,503
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Quote:
On non-A/C trucks there is a matching direct manual operation passenger inlet air vent. However on A/C trucks like yours, was, this became the air recirculation door. It is vacuum motor operated to allow interior air to be sucked into the A/C inlet plenum when the outside/fresh air door (also vacuum motor operated) is closed. Might be best to review the factory service manual on the A/C system if the picture does not clear this up for you. * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here
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Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID ** Blazer SPID ** Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders ** Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? ** Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban |
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#4 | |
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Location: Elverta, California
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Quote:
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#5 |
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Location: Elverta, California
Posts: 104
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
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#6 |
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Location: springfield mo
Posts: 3,075
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
It opens the passenger vent. Opens and closes with vacuum
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United States Marine Corps 2000-2011 Iraq and Afghanistan veteran Just living life now and enjoying it and my wife, daughter and son ![]() |
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#7 |
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Location: Elverta, California
Posts: 104
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
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#8 |
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Location: springfield mo
Posts: 3,075
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
I'd have to go out and follow the lines, not sure off the top of my head
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United States Marine Corps 2000-2011 Iraq and Afghanistan veteran Just living life now and enjoying it and my wife, daughter and son ![]() |
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#9 |
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Location: Elverta, California
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
[QUOTE=tommys72;7173759]I'd have to go out and follow the lines, not sure off the top of my head[/QUOTE
Ok just curious. Really isn't going to matter until I start putting it back together. There was nothing connected to it when I got the truck. I assume it must be set up so the driver can open and close both vents? Semper Fi. |
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#10 | |
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Location: springfield mo
Posts: 3,075
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
[quote=0311Chevy8152;7173762]
Quote:
Semper Fi brother
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United States Marine Corps 2000-2011 Iraq and Afghanistan veteran Just living life now and enjoying it and my wife, daughter and son ![]() |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 520
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
You've even got the original gun rack in there, that's awesome!
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#12 |
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Location: Elverta, California
Posts: 104
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
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#13 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 520
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
just found this, nice build...
22 yr army vet here, still in...
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The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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#15 |
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Location: Elverta, California
Posts: 104
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Advice please: I removed the lights and tailgate from the bed preparing to start disassembling the bed. I stopped before I even started when I saw welds between the bed and side panels. Originally I thought they just bolted together. The bed definitely needs work, the floor is dented in several areas, the wheel wells have lots of dents, the side panels on one side has a bunch of bondo you can see at the bottom of the panel, both sides have old fuel doors which I do not want anymore, and there is probably more I am not seeing. So, should I grind welds take apart bed (if that is even possible), or buy a bed (how much will that cost)? Thank you in advance for taking the time to reply. I greatly appreciate it.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Jose Ca
Posts: 965
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Their are about 4 to 6 welds that support the bed floor and side you can grind the weld and use a chisel to separate them. you will have to check alignment and weld them back together when you have completed the body work.
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#17 |
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Location: Elverta, California
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Is it difficult to realign after taking it apart? I assume it would be more thorough for me to take everything apart. Is that your recommendation?
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#18 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Jose Ca
Posts: 965
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Sky from Sky's Hot Rods finish up the sheet metal work on my truck. I did grind the weld and take the bed apart as I went from 8' bed to 6' bed and use what I could from the 8' to save money and buying part. the bed side will bolt together and you align the tailgate gaps then weld it back up. its not that much work. knocking out the dents is where all the work is. I did buy a new metal bed bottom salvaged the rest from 2 beds.
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#19 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Spanaway
Posts: 8,451
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
My experiance is one approx 1" weld on each side of the rear steak pocket, the rest is all bolts and nuts, there are some almost hidden bolts under the rear corners, ya really got to look for them.. the bedsides are awkward, 2 people or a way to support them like a cherry picker are a good idea
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Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's |
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#20 |
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Location: Elverta, California
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Might not seem like progress to some but it's progress to me. I removed one wheel well and getting ready to start the second. The old bolts are not fun to work with. I wish they would break off like some but most just spin. My new hip is getting a good workout going up and down a ladder to get into the back of the truck. I can't wait to see just a frame.
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#21 |
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![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Elkton
Posts: 693
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Oh man have to love rusty bolts !Have an awesome week end and thank you for your service to our Country.
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Spanaway
Posts: 8,451
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Actually when your by yourself doing body work can be a pita, especially when the carriage bolts want to turn when your trying to remove them. One trick for rusty bolts i have learned thru the years is to just tighten them until they break off cause you don't want to re use rusty bolts anyway, bolt kits are pretty cheap, the only possible drawback besides a bloody knuckle may be that if the body flanges are really rusted they may give a little, but if they are that bad they need repair anyway.
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Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's |
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#23 | |
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Location: Elkton
Posts: 693
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Quote:
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#24 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Elverta, California
Posts: 104
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
I have removed both wheel wells and about to start on the bed side panels. Instead of trying to loosen the bolts I should try tightening them first and see if they will break? So far it's been about 50/50 or a little over on bolts that will break.
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Topeka Kansas
Posts: 2,655
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
It looks like I'm a little bit late to the party, I just saw this build today for the first time.
Welcome to the board. There are a LOT of very knowledgeable people here on the board and you can learn tons by just simply reading other peoples builds. As in all things there is a right way to do things and a wrong way to do things, sometimes unfortunately we don't have the tools to do things the "right way" all the time and a lot of times the right way costs a lot of money because of the tools you have to buy to make it happen, however the good news is Harbor freight is your friend, the idea behind the business model is the tools are designed for "one time use" and are very reasonable in price. As in most product lines there are different levels of quality and features, they have the El cheapo, the Heavy Duty and the PROfessional series. For things like drills I buy the PRO series, for things like impact drills and grinders I buy the HD series, you get the idea, I never buy the El cheapo because they may or may not make it through your first project ![]() Harbor freight is also good for things like car dolly's, BIG 60 gallon air compressors, PRO series tool boxes, things of that nature. Lowes is an excellent source for common fasteners, nut's bolt's etc, but for hard to find fasteners go to Ace hardware. I'm going along for the ride, if you find yourself scratching your head and have any questions about anything on the pickup feel free to send me a private message. Last edited by Xeen; 05-25-2015 at 02:47 PM. |
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