Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[NastyBuzzard]

Yeah my napa acted like they didn't even understand the question.

[NastyBuzzard]

I got all of the rear hangers off. Plus the little hanger support for the rear which I noticed I am missing for my 4x4 hangers. May have found one though so that's not too big of a deal.



I started to mount the rear last night but was kind of hesitant. I am going to pull my other 4x4 up to the shop to take measurements. I want to place these in the correct position the first time.

[NastyBuzzard]

Teaser

[NorCalAnthony]

Nice work! I've always wanted a short bed crew cab square and can't wait to see how yours turns out

[NastyBuzzard]

Thanks!! I'm liking it more and more that is for sure!

Just wish I could get my dang engine!

[NastyBuzzard]

I will start off by saying this was very scary to me and I hope I did it right! What I did was measure exactly the same as the 4x4 donor frame then drop it down 1". I hope this will work out. For some reason drilling this 2" hole with my hole saw and little dewalt drill took 45 min and lots of breaks. The other side took like 15 but I used my giant milwuakee drill.



This was a good feeling. I am worried about the rear shackle angle. However, not a lot I can do without all the weight on it.



I also finally opened up the 79 rear diff to see what gears it had so I would know what gears my Dana 60 has. Turns out it is 4.10's which is exactly what my 88s stock gears where so no worries about not matching gears anymore.



One thing I could really use some HELP on is the engine crossmember. Most threads I have read people used DIY4x crossmember or something other than oem stuff. I am having problems with fitment so I will need to figure out what to do here.



I wanted to see what it would need to take to get this thing level so I threw some temporary blocks on the back.. I hate blocks and doing this motivates me to buy what I need whether it is 4" springs or the shack flip kit which is way too expensive now a days. I may just make my own.



I feel like once all the weight is on it will sit somewhat level but I tell you, it is a heck of a lot taller than I thought! Which isn't bad or good but still shocking me at this point.

[daddyjeep]

I would think the shackle flip could be built quite easily for about $40 versus almost $200 to buy it.

[NastyBuzzard]

It is ridiculous! I remember when DIY4x was cheap!

My friend has a design for one so I may just get my other friend with plasma cutter to cut it out and weld it together. Temporarily though I have to track down just 2 u bolts 2.5" wide and about 13" long. I am even having a hard time finding that for a reasonable price.

I have to find someway to get the engine crossmember in so that I will feel safe removing the front crossmember that the brake proportioning valve is bolted to so I can replace it with the 4x4 version. Which I heard may not just fit right in either.

[y5mgisi]

I seem to recall that there is a frame height difference between 2wd and 4wd in the engine crossmemeber areas? What is your fitment problem? I remember seeing in one thread that the 4x4 engine mount brackets were too tall to fit in the 2wd frame so a guy just made some kind of 1/4" slots in the brackets so they would slide into/onto the upper frame rail lip. Is that the trouble you are having?

[NastyBuzzard]

Yes the problem is that the 4x4 engine mount brackets that attach to the crossmember seem too tall to fit inside the frame rail like they are supposed to.

The crossmember itself slides in no problem.

I am not understanding what you mean when you say they slotted them to make them fit.

I haven't spent a lot of time trying to make them fit either.

[Dieselwrencher]

On my 76, I used 2wd rear spring/shackle hangers, a DIY4x shackle, and no block to get my rear suspension up. This required cutting the spring perches off the rear axle to reset pinion angle though. It was cheap and works. In the pic, I still have to make or install the lower half support bracket for the hanger.

[y5mgisi]

For u bolts I think if you look on eBay you will find something that works. I just went on there and typed in "leaf spring u bolts" and came across a few that might work for you. Same thing for the studs if you type in "Dana 60 u bolts" or "Dana 60 studs" I came across a couple.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

For u bolts I think if you look on eBay you will find something that works. I just went on there and typed in "leaf spring u bolts" and came across a few that might work for you. Same thing for the studs if you type in "Dana 60 u bolts" or "Dana 60 studs" I came across a couple.

I looked for a couple hours yesterday and didn't come up with anything. I came up with 1 possibility on the studs but they were pricey. I am trying really hard to not let this thing get too expensive.

I am saving my funds to build my Trans Am. The 6 speed is being rebuilt right now and I should be taking the engine to machine shop to be checked and what not in the next week or so.

[y5mgisi]

I certainly understand the importance of inexpensiveness! My budget is literally non existent while I work on my kitchen remodel. Like $0 dollars!

Do you need studs and u bolts still then? I can try and help you find cheap ones if you like?

[NastyBuzzard]

If you can that would help. Cheapest deal I can find is $30 for 2 u bolts and $20 for the studs.. Just seems really high.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

I just payed $17 for the studs and four nuts $50 some dollars for the other 3 u-bolts nuts and washers good luck finding a good quality u-bolt cheap last cheap u-bolts I picked up and use stretched out and one broke and I was picking my rear axle up out the road

[daddyjeep]

Well in that case....Mine came with a ratchet strap instead of U-bolts on the one side. The scary part is that it looks like it was there for a long time.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Chevy_mud_truck

I picked up a truck that didn't have a rear end so took one I had and I used some all thread had some extra bottom plates off 90 model and tops off 80 model and run the all thread between the two with a nut on top and bottom

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

If you actually plan to only roll it around the yard i have wrapped chain around the axle and spring and bolted it together on two links to keep it tight.

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

Well in that case....Mine came with a ratchet strap instead of U-bolts on the one side. The scary part is that it looks like it was there for a long time.

All good ideas and good points. Looks like I will just buy some small straps. Currently the only strap I have is like 20' long and the longest chain I have is like 12". I do have a crap tone of twine though! I will work it out.

I just want to get it outside and pressure wash it.

Not related to the truck but I did get my LS1 tore apart last night and ready to take to the machine shop. I am really missing my trans am.

[y5mgisi]

I bet! You got a lot of irons in the fire!

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

I bet! You got a lot of irons in the fire!

Yeah I do and its starting to wear on more than just my wallet. I just have too much motivation. I am so mad I don't already have to 6.5 TD to put the crew cab back together, just haven't been lucky with getting one.

Money wise though the 01 TA takes priority. We are rebuilding the trans and soon as I can get the engine to the machine shop and back I will be building it.

I will have to start selling a few spare parts & things here soon though to be able to keep funding the crew cab.

[NastyBuzzard]

Drilling holes for the engine cross member was a pain in the ass. I hope it is right and in the correct location and what not.

You can see how the engine mounts are slotted to fit into the shorter 2wd frame.

Also have the front xmember mounted somewhat but it is not being easy at all. I have already ground off at least an 1/8" off each side just to get it to fit within the frame rails without bowing it out. Another issue is the frame is different such that I can't angle the front xmember like it would be on the 4x4 so sway bar isn't matching up so I will have to figure out what to do about that.



Here you can see the issues with the sway bar...



I am also having odd problems such that one side of the xmember sits flush top and bottom but the other side has gaps above and below.

Here are the gaps and you can see it sits right against the frame.



Here is where it is flush top and bottom but has a gap between it and the frame.



Crazy ass ****!

Now my buddy has a lifted K5 and this is how he did his front sway bar. Anyone ever seen anything like this or know where I can buy it? It could potentially solve my issues.



Also for the rear reverse shackle, this is what my buddy made for his truck and it is super beefy. I am thinking of doing the same thing except not fully boxed in and a little thinner metal. This is close to the plan though, I am having to save as much as possible during this build.



On a side note, I also dropped off my LS1 at the machine shop last Friday and my T56 is about 3/4 of the way rebuilt.

[slotard]

DIY4X makes hangers like that. On a truck this size I'd go overkill rather than trying to save.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by slotard

DIY4X makes hangers like that. On a truck this size I'd go overkill rather than trying to save.

Yeah I am aware. Trust me anything I do will be overkill and be a lot stronger than diy4x or ord or any others that I have seen. I just won't be using 5/16" thick steel like my buddy used or box it in, it isn't really necessary. He had already designed a newer version that wasn't boxed in. I will use 1/4" thick or so.

[daddyjeep]

I don't like that sway bar solution at all. by clamping the leaf pack together at that point has to cause all kinds of problems with they way the leaves work. Maybe something similar to that mounted on top of the U bolts would work.

[NastyBuzzard]

Yeah it isn't really good for anything other than just driving down the road. If you look close you can see where he has had to weld the piece back together that bolts to the leaf spring when he went off road and broke it.

I don't like it but just looking at options. May just have remove the mount pads from the crossmember and bolt down the crossmember and then mount the pads back farther where they will work.