Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[OrrieG]

I decided to do the interior in old school acrylic laquer so I can shoot it myself. I'm trying to line up a booth to use to shoot the outside primer. There is a place under construction here that is going to rent the booth, prep area and resperator in 24 hour blocks of time but it is months away from completion and I'm moving pretty fast now that the honey do and yard work season is closed here!!

[Funeral]

Man this truck is going to be awesome I can tell, keep up the good work and the momentum. I plan on working on mine daily, everyday... I don't have a real job so this is possible! Your speed is inspiring! Keep the pics coming.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Funeral

Man this truck is going to be awesome I can tell, keep up the good work and the momentum. I plan on working on mine daily, everyday... I don't have a real job so this is possible! Your speed is inspiring! Keep the pics coming.

Thanks, I don't know about speed. It sat for 6 years or so after I took it apart. This week end was bummer, we got 1.5" of snow friday evening (earlist time of year ever recorded) and temps were at 45 degrees all week end so no paint or plastic work in the unheated garage. I have a gas heater but am afraid the moisture from the gas burning would condense on the body and affect the paint. Good new is starting Wednesday it is going to be in the 60's again. Did get the door jambs sanded, and rest of interior sanded so the first day its above 60 I can get the inside primed. three small places on the outside and it is ready too.

[BlueBowtie]

Truck is lookin good man. Didn't read everything, but are you planning to run it like an originaly stock 4 wheel drive, or are you gonna run some 33 or 35 M/Ts or A/Ts on some aftermarket wheels? Just wandering. My dad has 2 55 Chevys, a 4x4 with a 427 BBC on 44s, and one with a 327 on 38s. Good looking trucks(TaskForce series), lifted or lowered.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by BlueBowtie

Truck is lookin good man. Didn't read everything, but are you planning to run it like an originaly stock 4 wheel drive, or are you gonna run some 33 or 35 M/Ts or A/Ts on some aftermarket wheels? Just wandering.

For now the plan is 17" or 18" rims with some type of all terrain type tire. I want to keep them under the fenders so they won't be real wide. Around here I need more digging traction than wide flotation anyway. Before I ran 16" steel rims with 9.50 military type tread (noisy), then I switched to all weather radials (quiet but not too aggressive). I'll just take it to the tire shoe and start laying different combos on it. Definately want an allow one piece wheel, I have Cragars on my 64 Chevelle and they are rusting and an PITA to keep clean.

[OrrieG]

After what seems like 6 months progress. Got the cab etched and primed. On the advice of the paint dealer sanded the rattle can etch off. Since I last posted have been working the plastic, put it on, sand it off drill. Also removed the windshield, tried for an hour to get it out without cutting the gasket but it was just to brittle (I had replaced it in 1977 when the windshield was replaced). Removed the paint from the jambs, sanded the interior, found a couple of cracks that needed welded up and ground down. Yesterday evening etch primed it and shot three coats of blocking primer. And, of course, found a few places I don't like or just missed. Here are photos of it in metal, etch and primed. Included photos of the places I had to cut and weld (corner, hinge and fuel hole). I went to a couple of shops last week to see what they would charge to shot the final BC-CC, both said it wasn't that simple and that I should just quit doing the body work since they usually ended up redoing it all anyway. Really pissed me off and now that I have a feel for how the new paints go down (this is first time I've really used a gun since the early 80's) I'm leaning towards just shooting and cutting it myself. Anyway enjoy the "hobbists" , as they put it, work.

[OrrieG]

Primed photos.....if you look close at the etch photos above you can see some runs, I had the gun dialed way to rich at first, adjusted and things went better with the primer.

[OrrieG]

A couple of more....

[Kim57]

Looking good.
Kim

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Looking good.
Kim

Thanks, I also forgot to mention that the old school laquer for the interior is out. Just going to BC-CC with a additive to dull the gloss.

Any recommendations anyone on the percentage to dull or just trial and error???

[msgross]

I guess you have good equipment at home to paint it? I'm interested in the final paint... I think i'm to chicken to do mine though!

[Daniel U]

How much $$ will you be out if you're not happy with the finished product? I say go for it if you're confident.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Daniel U

How much $$ will you be out if you're not happy with the finished product? I say go for it if you're confident.

Dupont Chromacolor Base and Clear Coat paint will cost about $400-500. Etch and sanding primer so far has been about $150. Best quote I have gotten so far to final block, shoot, cut and polish it is $5500. Nice thing about the BB-CC paint is if you get runs, bugs, dust, etc. you can sand it down and reapply until you are happy.

I shot the primer in my two car shop, basically broomed and moped the floor, draped the work benches and shelves with plastic. I did not know what to expect, last paint I shot was laquer in the early 80's and it fogged up everything. This primer basically layers where you point the gun, there wasn't even enough residue on the floor to sweep. I had a few bugs on the ceiling die from the fumes and land on the roof but that is an easy fix when blocking it.

I will probably rent a booth to do the final, there is a guy in town building a facility just for hobbists to rent in 24 hour increments. Since the paint dries fast and ideally you can clear right after shooting the base 24 hours should be enough time to get base down, light sand, and clear and still have time to take care of any goof ups. God knows I've been up for 24 hours straight more than a few times in my life. I can cut and polish at home.

[Daniel U]

I'd go for it then. I've never shot anything(paint wise), so I have zero confidence. $5500 sounds about right these days.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Daniel U

I'd go for it then. I've never shot anything(paint wise), so I have zero confidence. $5500 sounds about right these days.

It is just like anything else, read up then jump in and practice. Find an old hood or fender. Don't save money on a gun, get a quality unit. It is basically just learning how to adjust the gun, how to move the gun (too close, too far, too fast, parallel with the body instead of an arc). One option you might think of is if there is a community college near you that offers body work classes you can sometimes sign up for night classes to learn the basics. I learned all my basic body work skills from an old timer that ran the Ft. Hood Hobby Shop in 1972. He didn't believe in plastic except as a final skim. Also buy good body tools, not the Harbor Freight stuff that dents and chips, I've found lots of good old tools at yard sales and used tool places.

[solidaxel]

. I went to a couple of shops last week to see what they would charge to shot the final BC-CC, both said it wasn't that simple and that I should just quit doing the body work since they usually ended up redoing it all anyway. Really pissed me off and now that I have a feel for how the new paints go down
Anyway enjoy the "hobbists" , as they put it, work.[

You must have taken your truck to the same body shop I did!!
I am not ready to take on a paint lesson but there must be someone that has the same values as me when it comes to a finished project.
Keep track of your hours and pay yourself $50.00 hr. see how close you come to the 5500.00 est.
You will have much more satisfaction in your complete job than just writing the check.
Keep up the good work, the end is in sight!!!

[OrrieG]

Progress pics, got the bottom undercoated, of course looking at the photos noticed a couple of places I need to touch up. Also blocking the body w/240 found some places that need more work. Final photo is my sidetrack on Sunday. I bought a Hickey Sidewinder winch that "was working when taken out". I took that with a grain of salt and decided to see if it did. They are 40 year old technology with dual solenoid controls, exposed jumper bars and 8 connections. The photo shows the Frankenstein wiring mess laid out on my bench mocked up to see if it does work. It did not; so the search is on to find a modern control set-up to run the motor. At some point the winch on the left will mount between the front rails and all of those wires need to be neatly concealed.

[50adrod]

looking good and you can definitley paint it yourself, I had not painted since the 70's and have painted 3 cars in the last year. invest in a quality gun it will make a huge difference. the new paints are a breeze to work with. be safe and use a supplied air respirator. the new paints, espicially the clears have some nasty chemicals in them. some time "hobbists" do better work than the so called pros, you can take your time and pay attention to detail that they can't afford to do. by the way my '93 vette I painted took first place at a car show and got an award for paint also. so go for it

[OrrieG]

What gun are you using, doing research Astra seems to be a good match between quality and price. For the priming I have been using a non-air mask for the new paints, plan on stepping up to an air set up if I decide to do it at home.

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

What gun are you using, doing research Astra seems to be a good match between quality and price. For the priming I have been using a non-air mask for the new paints, plan on stepping up to an air set up if I decide to do it at home.

I have an Iwata 400 that I bought second hand on ebay for 250.00, it was like new. sure you can do a good job with the astro gun but you will have to work harder at it. the problem i have had with cheaper guns is they dont always spray the same way twice, seems like every time you take them apart and clean them they act just a little different than before, not bad but i like to get used to one gun and then you know how it is going to spray. a quality gun will allways spray the same.

here is what I use for a supplied air system

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=8190
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=31540

[OrrieG]

Update on the last months progress between two massive colds and two weeks on the road. Got the cab blocked and started fixing a couple of places that still needed work on the body. Then it got too cold to put on plastic or paint (L=25, H=50 are current averages). So decided to drop the cab back on the frame (first time its been there in a couple of years) and work on seat, steering, ebrake and other stuff that just takes fabrication and welding. So here are the photos of the cab dangling, on the frame, clearance at the transmission and transfer shifter, clearance at the firewall.

[OrrieG]

This is a shot of my emergency brake set up. I have not seen anyone else do this and it is so EASY I wanted to share. The brake is out of a 74 pickup. I found that the firewall bolt spacing is the same as the 59 hood hinge. I used a die grinder to cut off the studs and drilled out what was left of the bolt. I use 1.5" long bolts at the hinge and the brake bracket slipped right over. It sits nice and tight along the left side panel. I will need to fabricate a small bracket for the bolt closest to the door. A hole for the cable will be needed at the firewall. I will need to figure out a connection between the other end and the stock 59 accuator arm but that should be easy too. I have to think some GM engineer must have thought about this.

[OrrieG]

Got the emergency brake figured out, will post photos when I put it back together after painting. Also working on the fuel line between the tank and main line. Installed the fuel sender, what a wresting match, instructions were basically worthless. I ended up doing the workbench mock up to get the sending unit bend and length right, then got to do it again because I forgot the tank was internally baffled!

Big progress has been the seat frame. Seats are 3rd row from an 07 Yukon. Would not recommend them for a large person but fit me and wife fine (we are both about 5'-6" and 165#. Anyway first three are of the basic frame with seat front installed then fully down. When in the cab I will be able to tilt back forward or pivot whole seat up to access under seat.

[OrrieG]

Next series show the seat in the truck, tape is the bottom of the door window opening, 5" is the height I will need above the floor. Also included a shot from the back to show what you will see thru the back window and clearance (8" at bottom) behind the seat.

[OrrieG]

Got a late Christmas present. Sold the original seat to a guy working on a 56 who wants a stock seat. We were talking and he asked if I had the original heater assembly, his was missing when he got the truck. I told him I did but was hanging on to it because I did not know if I would be able to get the aftermarket AC/Heat from Vintage Air or Old Time and might need to just throw the stock stuff back in. He said he got a used Vintage Air system (inside stuff only, no condenser, compressor, hoses or dryer) with his truck and would trade it for my stock stuff! We are swapping tomorrow. I checked and VA has the installation manual on line and any small parts that are missing are available too. Forward progress continues...the guy is a former auto body guy and painter and has offered up his shop for me to paint in also. Sound like I've made a new friend, I love this hobby.

Later=it arrived and has more stuff than I thought complete with hoses except for compressor and condenser. Will need a new dryer and I will need new guts for my worn out stock controls. Here is a poor phone photo or the stuff. One less thing to worry about.