Scott's '51 Build

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Here is how my new chassis rolled around when I got it........... I am finished with them!!
No clearance issues !

That's pretty clever! With the motor, trans, cab and bed I might need another layer of plywood! Sweet chassis - looks killer!

[1952ssr]

Can't believe I'm not the only one trying to finish a basement and build a truck too. I tried to bargain with my wife that I would work one week on the truck and one week on the basement till it's finished. Just too many irons in the fire at my house. Did I mention I would rather sand bondo all day as opposed to drywall mud any day.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by iowaboynca

dang...solidaxel can you adopt me? you have all the cool toys!

Scott-how about fullsize GMs-maybe "B" body spares? can't remember when/if they went to "idiot" wheels (the spare donuts). I bring this up because I'm running a F*RD pattern cuz of the 8.8 and was thinking of running 17" crown vic spares. In the u pull it yards around here, a big chunk of the crown vics still had their full size spares in the back.
and yes that rotary engine in that truck was pretty cool

Good thought - I just talked to the TCI guys and they also suggested a "universal" spare with multiple bolt patterns? I need to check that out.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Scott, while I haven't checked yards around here I am going to guess 15 inch wheels 5 x 4 3/4 bolt pattern are pretty rare as those wheels haven't been used in production for a long time. I needed one wheel for a shop roller and I didn't want to fool around trying to find one somewhere, so I ordered a new ralley wheel from Jegs...$60, no fuss, here in 2 days.

For your wheel tub...I guess measure the trailer fenders to see what fits the best. For your crossmember mount reuse the existing flange (or make one) and plug weld to side of trailer fender. Of course your cross sill will need shortening the matching amount.

Or carefully slice the bed side out, move it in the needed amount and fill the gap with 19 gauge.

TCI chassis...cool! Must be a new acquisition?

Doug,

I bought the chassis a year ago. It's nice - 4 link rear w/9 inch, IFS, Ride Tech coilovers all around and R&P steering. It saved me a ton of work and I don't have a lot of spare time with work and business travel. I had to weld in gas tank supports and still need to weld a steering shaft support and install the exhaust, then it's tear down time and off to the sandblaster and powder coater.

[joedoh]

I hear you on hard to find 15" with 4 3/4 pattern steel wheels. I am buying them every time I see them for sale. I have a few 15x5 and 15x6 seem to be most common. I got lucky and found an old paper wheel exchange book at a tire store while getting my tires rotated, and found out which cars came factory with 15x7 4 3/4 pattern, they are less common than you think, and then did a search on car-part to see which yard had a car (it was a 1980 olds 88) in stock. I got all 4 for $100.

but even that is going to be a bit of a trick. like doug says, you can find about an width even 15x8 (my preference for a rear wheel, takes up to a 275 easily) on summit or jegs for low $$. they are dual drilled 4 3/4 and 4.5 but with caps on no one knows.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I hear you on hard to find 15" with 4 3/4 pattern steel wheels. I am buying them every time I see them for sale. I have a few 15x5 and 15x6 seem to be most common. I got lucky and found an old paper wheel exchange book at a tire store while getting my tires rotated, and found out which cars came factory with 15x7 4 3/4 pattern, they are less common than you think, and then did a search on car-part to see which yard had a car (it was a 1980 olds 88) in stock. I got all 4 for $100.

but even that is going to be a bit of a trick. like doug says, you can find about an width even 15x8 (my preference for a rear wheel, takes up to a 275 easily) on summit or jegs for low $$. they are dual drilled 4 3/4 and 4.5 but with caps on no one knows.

I think I have this figured out. I just made a round of calls and found a guy with a machine shop in his back yard. He's going to open up the center of the wheels I bought for $30 for two wheels. Great deal and they should fit fine after that - of course I still have to tub the rear. The real deal here may be finding the friendly machinist.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Doug,

I bought the chassis a year ago. It's nice - 4 link rear w/9 inch, IFS, Ride Tech coilovers all around and R&P steering. It saved me a ton of work and I don't have a lot of spare time with work and business travel. I had to weld in gas tank supports and still need to weld a steering shaft support and install the exhaust, then it's tear down time and off to the sandblaster and powder coater.

Sorry Scott...Apparently I didn't recall I was drooling all over it back on page 1!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Scott2

The real deal here may be finding the friendly machinist.

haha may? $15 a wheel is hardly a blip. I would take him a 30pack as a tip

[Scott2]

Dropped the wheels off to get the centers machined out. However, in spite of these being 15" wheels, they do not clear the Wilwood brake calipers or the caliper brackets. Those are just mocked up right now so I'm pulling them off to get the wheels on. What a pain.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Dropped the wheels off to get the centers machined out. However, in spite of these being 15" wheels, they do not clear the Wilwood brake calipers or the caliper brackets. Those are just mocked up right now so I'm pulling them off to get the wheels on. What a pain.

Long process to get rollers on this truck - hard to find any wheels at all around here, found some finally but had to machine the centers to clear the front hubs and then they hung up on the calipers and the steering linkage. Too much backspace so I ordered a set of 2" spacers. That worked and now it's on the ground and rolled outside for the first time in about 16 months.

Tires are 26-1/2" tall, front edge of the running board is 5" off the ground.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Here is how my new chassis rolled around when I got it........... I am finished with them!!
No clearance issues !

Great looking frame!

[Scott2]

Getting much more time in the garage now. Got my gas tank mounted with an angle welded on at the rear crossmember and added a small crossmember in the front. Used some weld in nutserts from Jegs to attach the rear of the stars and welded bolts thru the front crossmember for that end. Also had to trim up one of the cross sills to clear the tank and sending unit. I have a strip of 1/8" strap I'll weld alongside the sill to keep it solid.

Also cut the bedsides for tubs. Still not sure what size wheel/tire but decided it was a good time to do this, esp since the roller wheels rubbed against the bed. I found a pair of 60's truck inner wheel wells I may use for the tubs.

[Scott2]

In an earlier episode I had started on the pass side kick panel and cowl repairs. There was a bunch of rust and the cowl was caved in from the door. I removed the cowl and cleaned up the rust, started to replace to bottom of the hinge pillar and front of the rocker. Also put in a smaller patch in the kick panel area but still had issues above that area.

This time I was able to finish that work and then cut a patch for the rest of the kick panel and got it welded in. Then I set the new cowl in place and decided to shave the vent. That turned out OK and the cowl is now fully welded in. Just need to come back with a little filler for the previously leaded seam and also will put a thin layer over the vent patch.

[Scott2]

A few more pics of the cowl.these pics are right side up when I open them. Not sure why they're rotating...

[Scott2]

Getting ready for an exhaust. The first issue is that my headers hit the frame on the pass side. This is a TCI chassis and they claim these Hookers fit. They do, except of the flange. they're coated so I hate to grind away the coating. I may end up clearancing the chassis rail.

Now on to exhaust questions:

I have the undercab brake booster and master under the drivers' seat area. Looks like it will be hard to run an exhaust pipe that way? I have seen a few pics where the pipes were both routed to the pass side. Anyone do that?

If so - did you run them through a single muffler or route it back to the pass side and use dual mufflers?

Anyone using turbo mufflers? I don't want any drone, just idle rumble and a mellow throaty sound.

COST? - I have seen a bunch of posts on costs and they all seem to be much less than what I'm seeing. So far, the local hot rod shop says $3k (holy crap...) for a SS mandrel bent custom system. Two more - Bud's in Denver was at $750-$900, and AA Performance Exhaust at $650 - were for aluminized 2-1/2" dual systems out the back with standard exhaust bends and turbos or Flowmaster mufflers. I did not expect it to be this expensive. Is this the going rate now?

I might consider doing my own although I don't really want to and I just have a mig so I'm not sure if I can weld it up. Any thoughts on exhaust systems? Anyone know a less expensive shop in the Denver/Colorado Springs area?

[nvrdone]

as far as exhaust, ive got ram horn manifolds with 2.5" pipe into thrush turbo's ending in front of the axle. no drone - just lots of rumble. especially since the system is 25 plus years old & the mufflers are totally blown out. time to build a new system !!

[reaper71]

Scott, build is coming along nicely!

Exhaust: I build all my systems, I start with the Speedway kit It comes with 4 straight 4 U bends 4 90's and 4 45 mandrel bends in 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 sizes for around 140-150 range also ava. in stainless if you prefer. I cut clock and weld all the pieces and use 3 bolt flanges with in the system so it can be taken apart.
Mufflers: I used flowtech for the last 2 builds and sounds really nice and are around 25 each.
Here are a few shots of one system I finished up awhile back,I mig weld most of all the systems until lately when I finally bought a TIG welder.
the system has 3 mufflers so it would be quiet (for his kids in the back)

Hope this helps
Mark...

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Long process to get rollers on this truck - hard to find any wheels at all around here, found some finally but had to machine the centers to clear the front hubs and then they hung up on the calipers and the steering linkage. Too much backspace so I ordered a set of 2" spacers. That worked and now it's on the ground and rolled outside for the first time in about 16 months.

Tires are 26-1/2" tall, front edge of the running board is 5" off the ground.

I like this ride height, Looks great.

[Advanced Design]

Scott, last truck I built I took it to the local exhaust shop. He bent everything to fit, cleared the underfloor booster and master and it wasn't too expensive. It was a really simple exhaust.

Current Burb build I used a Pypes crossover, Hooker / Holley downpipes for the 73 to 87 swap kit and some other pieces I ordered from Jegs to put a stainless system together. Guessing I spent maybe $500.

And next one I will probably follow Reapers formula listed above.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by reaper71

Scott, build is coming along nicely!

Exhaust: I build all my systems, I start with the Speedway kit It comes with 4 straight 4 U bends 4 90's and 4 45 mandrel bends in 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 sizes for around 140-150 range also ava. in stainless if you prefer. I cut clock and weld all the pieces and use 3 bolt flanges with in the system so it can be taken apart.
Mufflers: I used flowtech for the last 2 builds and sounds really nice and are around 25 each.
Here are a few shots of one system I finished up awhile back,I mig weld most of all the systems until lately when I finally bought a TIG welder.
the system has 3 mufflers so it would be quiet (for his kids in the back)

Hope this helps
Mark...

Mark - your work looks great! I'm going to look at some of the kit options.

Scott

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Scott, last truck I built I took it to the local exhaust shop. He bent everything to fit, cleared the underfloor booster and master and it wasn't too expensive. It was a really simple exhaust.

Current Burb build I used a Pypes crossover, Hooker / Holley downpipes for the 73 to 87 swap kit and some other pieces I ordered from Jegs to put a stainless system together. Guessing I spent maybe $500.

And next one I will probably follow Reapers formula listed above.

Doug - thanks! I am going to look at some kits and also check out a few other shops. In the past I cut headers apart and rerouted them and played with exhaust a bit but they were all just mild steel. I'm unsure about welding the aluminized steel or SS. Have to do some more research.

[Scott2]

Another question - I am doing an LS swap and have a 2006 motor and the DBW gas pedal. I searched around looking for mounting tips on the pedal but so far only found newer years including a nice bracket one of the members sells for 60's or 70's trucks. Anyone have advice on how to mount the pedal in my '51?

Thanks!

[Scott2]

Got a little work done today. I ordered a Flaming River column and got the wrong length. They were great and the new one is on the way. In the meantime I filled the gas filler hole on the cab and started fabbing a small trans tunnel. Almost don't need one as the trans doesn't stick thru but does make contact. This should do the trick.

[Cautrell05]

Looks good. How do you set front end alignment though? It all looks like it is fixed control arm mounts.

[joedoh]

I just noticed you are from castle rock, I get there once in a while, my wifes best friend lives there with her family.

truck is looking really great!