The 283 Rebuild Begins

[joe231]

looking good

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by joe231

looking good

Thanks.

Fixed the holes in the intake manifold per.....

Originally Posted by justcuz

If you are keeping the 2 barrel you might want to plug the exhaust heat riser passages that go to the cast iron base of the carb.

[justcuz]

Do I spy the nose of a 64 Chevelle? Same one the transmission is in the trunk of?

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justcuz

Do I spy the nose of a 64 Chevelle? Same one the transmission is in the trunk of?

Yeah, that’s ‘The Blue’, my daily driver since the first week of February - when ‘The Tan’ (my C10) got ripped off, right there at the curb.

[MacAttack]

Went to the new Original Parts Group (OPG) in Seal Beach yesterday and picked up my new stainless steel automatic transmission fluid cooling lines (the ones that go to the bottom of the radiator).

Outstanding quality and they were on sale (about $75 for the pair). The new facility is a palace! Got the nickel tour and while it’s mainly a Chevelle place, many of the running gear parts are common for our trucks. I laid out the assemblies on the garage floor last night - against the grubby, old, bent up tubes and they’re a perfect replacement.

Apparently, there are two (not so friendly) bothers that own these outfits, one owns Classic Industries and the other OPG, and their business styles seem to be really different:

Classic Industries show room process: Arrive with your page printed from their website (as you can’t order a WILLCALL over the web), the first guy takes your credit card - sweeps it - gives it back - retypes your order into their data base, the second guy take the print-out to the warehouse order bay, third guy pulls the order, fourth guy receives it and asks for your card again, re-swipes it, you sign the receipt and then you get to put your thumb-print on their part of the credit card receipt.

OPG show room process: Arrive with your WILLCALL order - printed from their website, guy takes it, NEXTEL radio in hand - hits the warehouse guy and your order is brought to the show room, first guy cuts the box open and helps you inspect your product, reseals the box, takes your credit card, swipes it, you sign the receipt and you’re gone.

Two different worlds.

[MacAttack]

Jeg’s shipment arrived via FedEx Ground yesterday - with my flex plate. Mounted it last night, with a new set of bolts. It’s perfect. Now I can put the motor up on its stand tonight and get down to some serious finish work. This weekend’s going to be busy and fun!

BTW: Jeg’s sent me a hat with my part. Cool.

[fuelpump]

Does anyone know what years the passenger side rams horn manifold outlet curved to the back (versus dumping straight down). A friend needs one for a hot rod and was told they came on early 60s trucks with 283s. Any help will be appreciated.

[javadoc]

I have a set off of my 64 that dunp straight down... PM me and we can talk about them. They're just sitting in a box.

Originally Posted by fuelpump

Does anyone know what years the passenger side rams horn manifold outlet curved to the back (versus dumping straight down). A friend needs one for a hot rod and was told they came on early 60s trucks with 283s. Any help will be appreciated.

[MacAttack]

After some amateuristic foul-ups this morning - got the motor on its stand and the top end done. Never think you've got your tools until you check it out and verify, prior to starting.

The loss of two of the wing pieces forced me to make a couple out of 1/2" x 1-1/2" bar stock at the shop. it was kind of a nightmare, but I put the engine stand's main strut up on the hoisted engine and then gradually bolted everything together, using grade "8" bolts, washers and nuts.

The next item is the water pump and lower alternator bracket.

I'm converting the truck back to the original voltage regulator and alternator system - based on what I've read in the "Electrical" forum. That may take a bit of doing, but I'll feel a lot more comfortable with the original system and the kit updates.

Not a bad day - just a great deal of time detailing paint and stuff.

[MacAttack]

Mounted the new motor’s water pump last night and ended up leaving out the "locator pin" (?), as it wasn’t even close to being functional. .005 slip fit into the block - no big deal, but going into the blind hole in the water pump - .060 clearance. Does this matter?

Better to find out now than when the engine’s in the truck.

[justcuz]

If I understand you correctly the blind hole is in the back of the pump? Those pumps had an extra hole on one side that was for a bypass, from the face of the block through the water pump.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justcuz

If I understand you correctly the blind hole is in the back of the pump? Those pumps had an extra hole on one side that was for a bypass, from the face of the block through the water pump.

Bingo. Just couldn't understand what the pin was for(?) This hole is on the left port of the block and water pump - if you're looking back from the fan. I'm assuming that with the gasket and sealer there won't be any complications.

Mac.

[justcuz]

No you should not have any trouble with it. I glue the gasket to the pump with gaskacinch. Let it dry, then put axle grease on the surface were the pump and block meet. Put the 2 top bolts in loosely, install the bottom ones, run em in finger tight, then wrench em. Does your alternator upper bracket come off the top of the pump? Make sure you put the right bolt in there.You can remove the pump without the gasket sticking to the block and scrape the gasket off the pump on the bench if you ever have to replace it. I don't like bending over the core support scraping gaskets that may end up in the block.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justcuz

Does your alternator upper bracket come off the top of the pump? Make sure you put the right bolt in there.

Went with the lower mount alternator bracket - so there's no problem.

[MacAttack]

#1./ Correct flex plate (from Jegs) on the '283'. Ready for engine stand.

[MacAttack]

#2./ Motor finally on the stand - with newly made hardware for two bolts.

[MacAttack]

#3./ Intake manifold gaskets and RTV end-seals in place.

[MacAttack]

#4./ Intake manifold in place, with nice chrome bolt set from Summit.

[MacAttack]

#5./ Old School oil filler tube (chrome cap coming). New School swivel neck.

[MacAttack]

#6./ Exhaust manifolds installed - after sand blast, paint and restud operations.

[MacAttack]

#7./ Installation of the 2-Barrel rebuilt carburator.

[Tim64]

Hey that looks pretty sweet! Nice work

[joe231]

looking good!
I like you step by step photos also, verry niiice!!

[MacAttack]

You’d think I’d want to completely finish this motor - but I’m finding every excuse I can to avoid doing just that. I got the correct oil filler tube cap (actually for a 327) in from Paragon Reproductions (800-882-4688) by UPS yesterday, and that’s it. Time to mate her up with the TH350. Need to make the modulator line now from some brake tubing. That and bolting in the motor towers - it will be showtime.

Mac.

[kizer]

Been there done that with a few projects. I took 2 weeks to rebuild a transfercase for a buddy in his 74 LandCrusier. I knew if I finished it in a few days it would be done. I wanted to play longer. hahahaha