Hatzies 2005 2500HD

[hatzie]

Whelp. The money light came on this AM.
P0449 Evaporative System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction.

The PCM monitors the voltage through the vent valve wiring loop from the fuse panel. Either the vent valve solenoid coil or the wiring to the vent valve is open.

I'll edit this post with what I find.

My test method will be to energize the vent valve using my Tech 2 with a Metripak 150 to 168 Peanut bulb test light inserted into the Vent Valve connector. My test lamp is a molded 168 peanut bulb socket pigtail that I crimped Metripak 150 terminals to the wire ends as a PCM solenoid driver safe test lamp. Real low tech.
If proper volts are coming from the PCM and the Metripak connector isn't full of green puss I'll change the valve out. Otherwise I get to fix the wiring.

[hatzie]

Well I just got under the truck to do the obligatory visual check and plug in the test lamp.

The Metripak150 connector for the vent valve is full of green and brown puss and one terminal on the vent valve is corroded off and stuck in the plug.
I cut the wires off even with the plastic shell hoping to just crimp new Metripak terminals and cavity seals on the ends of the wires and re-use the shell...
No such luck. I discovered the seal was nicked by someone not being careful when they installed a valve... it was leaking water and road crud into the connection for long enough to turn the terminals to a green slurry.

I kinda figured I might find this. I've seen this before.

I looked up the canister vent solenoid connector end view on Page 6-2428 of the 2005 GM Light Truck service manual and it calls for a Metripak 150 Delphi 12052643 shell.
The local auto parts guys don't have a pigtail so I ordered a 1205264 for $1.49 from Mouser along with some other electronics parts and automotive terminals I've been putting off ordering. It'll get here Wednesday or Thursday.

This is the EVAP Vent Valve circuit in all its' glory. The PCM closes the ground to the evap vent valve when it's commanding it closed and the other side of the circuit is hot at all times from the fuse panel.
Click on the image to open larger in another tab/window.


If you do any automotive or motorsports electrical work you do not have to buy the crimp tools that crimp the pins for one connector family only in one operation. That type of tool is real nice but it's expensive and not versatile.
Delphi made two very versatile ratcheting terminal crimp tools. Actually more than two but these are the bees knees.
They crimp terminals in two operations. The conductor is crimped in the proper cavity for that terminal & wire gauge. Then you move the partially complete assembly to another cavity where the insulation or seal wings are crimped in a second operation.
I've crimped Deutsch DTM & DT open wing terminals, Molex GT, Metripak GT, Metripak 150 & 280, AMP Quadlok (VW AUDI), Weatherpak, Packard 56, and several other families on 14-20ga wires using the two Delphi tools. $220 for the pro level tools is a bargain for that versatility.
They cost between $90 & $130 each but you can position the terminal and ratchet the tool down and re-position the wire without loosing the jaw closure. They will not open til you have completed the crimp cycle or cammed the emergency release open so you don't end up with an over or under crimped terminal. You can likely evilbay these off for $95-$100 each if you take care of them and suddenly decide you don't need em.
-Delphi Ratcheting 12085270 Crimps Weatherpak and Metripak 150/280 sealed terminals... Three seal and two conductor wing cavities.

-Delphi Ratcheting 12085271 Wide range crimper with five cavities for conductor and un-sealed insulation strain relief crimp wings.

If you need to crimp Metripak 480 or 630 or Packard 59 terminals you need larger cavity tools but the above tools will crimp 85-95% of what you're likely to encounter.

These are some less expensive $30ish non ratcheting tools. These are great for the weekend warrior that's crimping a few terminals or as a tool to hold you over til you can find a nicer one but you'll tire of them quickly if you're building vehicle harnesses for your hot rod or restorations. The downside is you can open them before the crimp operation is completed and end up with loose crimps and they don't have the positive stops of the more expensive tools so you can over crimp the terminals as well.
-Wire and weather seal crimp tool for Weatherpak and Metripak 150/280 sealed terminals. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CCAEJ6
-Wide range wire and jacket wing crimp tool for unsealed and sealed connector conductor wings. This tool will not crimp the Weatherpak/Metripak/Molex-GT weather seals but it will crimp the conductor wings of those families and both wings of un-sealed terminals. https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packar.../dp/B003MWJ6SA

[hatzie]

I have a duplicate of this thread on the Silverado Sierra forums.
A member over there that goes by "silentbravo" on those boards mentioned Seargent tools has a slightly better version of the $30 tools made by Seargent... a subsidiary of Oetiker.
It looks like the ratcheting tools without the ratchet.
They also have copies of the Delphi tools I mentioned in the previous post.
According to their web page they are made in the United States.
http://www.sargenttools.com/ToolsByT...ed_Crimp_Tool/

[Corts60]

Very cool thread Hatzie, just read through it all. Thanks for all the good info, super helpful!

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Corts60

Very cool thread Hatzie, just read through it all. Thanks for all the good info, super helpful!

Thanks. Glad to know it's useful. It didn't seem there was a lot of info out there all in one place.
I'm recording as I go so someone else doesn't have to dig as hard.

[hatzie]

I fixed the truck this afternoon. The interesting thing is the money light went out instantly when the electrical connection to the new valve was installed.

There are two vent valves that could be installed.

My truck still had the factory GM single hose barb valve. I bought a $30 NAPA Echlin 2-282567. It's made in the USA... will wonders never cease.

You can install either valve type on your rig. The $100 two barb valve with remote air intake box and filter is part of GM TSB 02-06-04-037J for extremely dusty driving conditions.
If you drive mostly paved roads you can fit the less expensive valve.

The terminals in my vent valve plug were corroded away so I clipped it off right at the connector and replaced it using my wire-stripper, crimp tools, and new connector parts. I wiped Sil-Glyde on the terminals and connector seals with a plumbers flux brush.

Mouser Electronics kindly provided me the following pieces along with some other terminals, connectors, and seals for my tackle box bins in exchange for money. I believe it was just over the $25 minimum for cheap shipping. I usually have one of these in the terminal parts bins, since it's a common failure part, but I got caught with my pants down.
1. 12052643 Metripak 150 Two position Vent Valve plug. This can usually be re-used but the seal on mine was knackered and it was filled with white, green, and brown corrosion. Not a good home for new terminals.
1. 12052634 Metripak 150 Two position Terminal Position Lock. This can sometimes be re-used but mine was cracked.
2. 15324982 Green Delphi Metripak/Weatherpak Wire Seal.
2. 12084200 Female Metripak 150 tin plated terminals 18-20awg.
This is some of my haul but not everything...


I use two Plano 787 tackle boxes with six individually closed plastic compartment bins for the more commonly used terminals, connectors, and seals. Not my original idea. I saw how the girlfriend keeps the beads sewing bits and bobs and other stuff organized and I stole her idear. The top tray has my strippers, and my commonly used crimping tools in oiled denim sleeves made for me from old pantlegs. I have several other plastic compartment bins from the craft and fishing aisles for my less commonly used terminals.

[LT7A]

Thanks for all the info hatzie! I open up a digital notepad when I read your thread updates. I average about three new notes per session. I'm enjoying seeing you get this rig shipshape.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Thanks for all the info hatzie! I open up a digital notepad when I read your thread updates. I average about three new notes per session. I'm enjoying seeing you get this rig shipshape.

Thanks for the encouragement.
I'm glad it's helpful.

[hatzie]

I just did the rear brakes. You can't have rust on the rotors surface to pass NH safety inspection now. I'm so glad I have a nanny in Concord looking out for me.

Nothing that exciting. NAPA Fleet rotors and pads. You can look up the parts and reserve them or even pay for them online before going to the store. The rotors and pads cost about the same as parts from Rock Auto when you factor in $100 US shipping.

A gotcha on the 2005 K2500HD. 4.63" or 4.84" centre hole. I'm not sure what determines whether the larger or smaller hole rotor is fitted to the vehicle.
My truck has JH6 brakes and the centre hole is 4.84"

GM thoughtfully put the top caliper slide bolts and the brake pad carrier retainer bolts close enough to the spring pak that putting a ratchet on the T55 Torx slide bolt is impossible.
The top pad carrier bolt is an interesting exercise to access but not impossible to use a socket on. I would make sure you have a length of pipe and a long breaker bar if this is the first time these bolts have been off. I had difficulty turning the bolts with my 30" 1/2" drive breaker bar.

The parking brake is old fashioned cable and lever two shoe drum brakes that run inside the hat of your rotor. Nothing super special. Adjust them with a spoon once you seat the drum just like regular old fashioned drum brakes.

[The Ohioian]

Originally Posted by hatzie

I just did the rear brakes. You can't have rust on the rotors surface to pass NH safety inspection now. I'm so glad I have a nanny in Concord looking out for me.

Nothing that exciting. NAPA Fleet rotors and pads. You can look up the parts and reserve them or even pay for them online before going to the store. The rotors and pads cost about the same as parts from Rock Auto when you factor in $100 US shipping.

A gotcha on the 2005 K2500HD. 4.63" or 4.84" centre hole. I'm not sure what determines whether the larger or smaller hole rotor is fitted to the vehicle.
My truck has JH6 brakes and the centre hole is 4.84"

GM thoughtfully put the top caliper slide bolts and the brake pad carrier retainer bolts close enough to the spring pak that putting a ratchet on the T55 Torx slide bolt is impossible.
The top pad carrier bolt is an interesting exercise to access but not impossible to use a socket on. I would make sure you have a length of pipe and a long breaker bar if this is the first time these bolts have been off. I had difficulty turning the bolts with my 30" 1/2" drive breaker bar.

The parking brake is old fashioned cable and lever two shoe drum brakes that run inside the hat of your rotor. Nothing super special. Adjust them with a spoon once you seat the drum just like regular old fashioned drum brakes.

Inspections? Rust on rear brake rotor? Any rust how much we talking here?

[hatzie]

A ring around the outside. Not enough to make one bit of difference. They figured I would spring for $500 for replacing the rear brakes. The corruption that nanny state "safety" inspections generate. Once the safety failure is logged to the state no other inspection outfit will touch it.

It took me 45 minutes and $130 in parts.

[Keith Seymore]

Just checking in to say that I'm still following along, and keep up the good work. I don't usually attempt a repair on my truck without checking here first.

Edit: just skimmed back through the thread to see what I had previously shared, and was reminded I wanted to do the steering wheel swap and add the DeeZee tailgate damper. I also am reminded that I prefer the '05 and up hood and grille as opposed to the '03/'04. Very slight changes but big improvement in the front end, in my way of thinking.

Originally Posted by hatzie

A ring around the outside. Not enough to make one bit of difference.

Yep. That's "design intent", based on the size of the friction material and where it sits on the rotor. Every single truck of this configuration will have that.

K

[MalibuSSwagon]

I assume you checked the inspection code as I've had shops try to pull one over on me before. Well mostly my fiance. She took her car in once and it got failed because the windows rolled down too slow. I took the car right back there, and said "hey man the inspection code states the drivers window has to work, it does not state a minimum speed for the windows" they slapped that sticker right on. They always think a chick is an easy mark.

[hatzie]

The Snow on the roof makes em think I'm an easy mark.
I have looked at the inspection code.
I bought some parts and installed them myself a little ahead of schedule. I was intending to do all four corners this summer when I hit 100,000 miles. I tow an 8,500 lb trailer a few times a month. I figured 17 years and 100K is long enough.
Deflating the inspecting mechanic when he didn't get a payday from me was amusing. Like poking a balloon with a pin. Told him I'd see him in the morning that I'm not paying $365 for 45 minutes labor.

[legendman]

Great thread !!

Following now that I have a 04 Dmax 3500.

Did you ever do the drivers seat cushion?
I saw you mention it replacing it but I didn't see a post on it.
My 3500 only has 137k on it but the drivers cushion needs to be replaced.

[hatzie]

I have the foam and the cover. Haven't gotten to it yet.

[legendman]

Originally Posted by hatzie

I have the foam and the cover. Haven't gotten to it yet.

Where did you get the foam ?

I have a new 99-03 bottom foam but I think it is different.
I got it for a 2000 GMC I used to have.

[hatzie]

The Seat Shop. It's their DuroFoam cushion. Availability is strange right now. Like a lot of things.

It's 1999-02 and 2003-07. 2003 is when they changed a bunch about the T800 trucks.

The Seat Shop's DUROFOAM Seat Cushion for...

2003-2006 Chevy/GMC/Cadillac Driver Bottom...

The butt frame is bolted to the main seat frame. You remove the nuts from the front edge, carefully disconnect & disentangle the wiring, remove the side trim plastic, and then slide it off and start in with the upholstery.
LSX Matt made a video of re-foaming his 2nd design T800 Tahoe seat.

LSXMatt Tahoe seats

[hatzie]

I'm going to be doing parking brakes on the AAM 10.5" full floating 14bolt.

I did some research and have ordered parts. This post may be edited once I have the parts in hand and start the job.

I discovered a part change quietly made by General Motors on the 1999-2023 AAM 10.5" & 11.5" 14bolt axle to hub seals. The ID is slightly larger on the updated seals.

The original is part number is GM 15007008. This part has been superseded. The updated part number is GM 15823962 / AC Delco 291-319 Datasheet for this seal is here---> https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...9188&jsn=14638

Pull up the datasheets with the dimensions of the National or CR or SKF or Timken or ... aftermarket seals and compare em to the real deal from GM or Delco. I don't wonder why the aftermarket seals don't last in this location. They either meet spec on dimensions or they don't. From what I can see they don't. Saving $10-$20 a seal ain't worth it if you're ripping the hub back off and replacing $110 worth of parking brake shoes along with $75 in brake pads in 10,000 miles or less.

The loaded parking brake and splash/backer plate for the AAM 14 bolt full floating axles is Dorman 926-267. Do your own due diligence. Don't just take my word for it.
Rock Auto has the lowest price but they're out of stock so I bought it from the Amazon Dorman store. Scamazon being what it is, I worry that it's not actually Dorman behind that store but time will tell.
I worry about the Chinese Dorman parts but it would be noticeably more work to sandblast and powder coat my backing plates and install fresh GM shoes & springs not to mention I'd still need to free up the adjusters and buy new actuators & boots.
I'll probably rebuild the old backers if they're serviceable and put em on the shelf for the next go-round or to sell on eBay when I sell the truck.
I promise to ruthlessly review the part and the service I get from the Amazon seller.


**EDIT** The backer plates are retained by M16x2.00 flange nuts. Zinc plated, serrated locking flange head, M16x2.00, Class10 nuts from McMaster Carr are part #96595A105. They come in bags of five for $16.39 as of Feb 14, 2024.

[LT7A]

Did you have seepage at the axle seals necessitating replacement of the parking brake shoes? I kinda figured those for essentially no-wear items unless I forget to release the parking brake. Seems to happen to me about once a year but I usually catch on pretty quick

[hatzie]

Not seepage. Rust actually damaged the actuator mechanisms. One of the cable connections broke off the actuator arm.
I'm shooting for tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

[LT7A]

Ok, I see. Hopefully the weather allowed you to get back at it.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Ok, I see. Hopefully the weather allowed you to get back at it.

It rained then snowed and my lower back problems reared their ugly head. Mick Jagger is right.

My Inspection sticker is good til August and these don't affect the service brakes so they can keep til it's somewhat warmer than 9°F and I can kneel down without shaking and sweating when I get back up.

In other news:

The intermittent no-crank problem I've had for five years finally became a steady state no-crank that I could diagnose. Turns out it was the starter, not dodgy wiring.inexpensive
The ignition switch position showed ON and CRANK on the Autel diag screen when I requested them so the Standard Motor Products ignition switch I threw at it in 2018 is still in good shape. In my defense the problem didn't recur for nearly a year and a half after replacing the switch and they're a common failure part so I figured I'd won the parts canon lottery that time.
I have some of those sweet Lisle 60660 relay test jumpers that include the breakout for the ISO280 relays. I paid something like $55 for these a decade ago but everything seems to be going up a LOT.
The test lamp showed 12v output from the relay, at the crank fuse, and the same at the CRANK terminal on the starter when my assistant turned the ignition switch to the CRANK position up on the lift.

I put in a brand new AC Delco starter and it seems the problem is fixed.

[hatzie]

For some reason the liquid leaked out of the LH mirror. I thought only the auto-dimming mirror glass was filled with liquid.
I need to take a look at the wiring diagrams. The mirror and cab wiring has four wires into an unsealed connector & two .125" spade connectors for the heater grid.
I assume the four position connector is two for the LED chevron in the side of the mirror and two to energize the dimming LCD???

This failure is the strangest thing I've ever seen.
Kinda yellow to brown/gold gradient across the mirror degrading and doubling/ghosting the reflected image in uneven patterns across the glass.
The glass itself didn't crack til I removed it.
Bought a used GM mirror on eBay. The GM glass isn't wavy funhouse mirror glass.