What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[Fatherof3]

Originally Posted by chevjayfsd

I've never seen a cut like that before or in this location. What are your plans?

I have a LWB that I'm converting to a SWB. The inside of my box is rusted around the bottom so I'm going to raise the floor "3 to have good metal to attach the floor to. It wont be a true Z'd frame but will get the similar result by overlapping the frame splice by the 3". Another benefit will be all my mounting points for the springs, shocks, & panhard get moved up 3".

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by chevjayfsd

I've never seen a cut like that before or in this location. What are your plans?

Sure looks like a weird way to drop a truck down... Good luck... can't wait to see how you do the mounting points on this... Dan

[Fatherof3]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

Sure looks like a weird way to drop a truck down... Good luck... can't wait to see how you do the mounting points on this... Dan

It only makes sense to do it this way if are doing a LWB to SWB conversion and want to go lower than mild notch allows. I have a bolt in notch that is designed to fit under the floor that is probably 3.5" deep. This way that 3.5" of extra clearance just became 6.5" of extra clearance over the axle with out cutting the frame into three pieces the way I would need to if I was shorting the frame and doing a notch all the way through the frame. And now all my rear suspension mounting points are moved up 3". Effectively I'm just Z'ing a short bed frame but the frame over laps because I started with a long bed and will be a stronger splice this way too.
Having the lower 2" of inner bed sides rusted through and wanting to go lower that the stock floor would allow is what's behind doing it this way.

[74baggedbug]

Decided to remove my windshield wipers so we made these at work .. I know everyone goes with billet but I wanted to do something a bit diffrent so we went with brass

[Fatherof3]

[QUOTE=Fatherof3;6483858]It only makes sense to do it this way if are doing a LWB to SWB conversion and want to go lower than mild notch allows. I have a bolt in notch that is designed to fit under the floor that is probably 3.5" deep. This way that 3.5" of extra clearance just became 6.5" of extra clearance over the axle with out cutting the frame into three pieces the way I would need to if I was shorting the frame and doing a notch all the way through the frame. And now all my rear suspension mounting points are moved up 3". Effectively I'm just Z'ing a short bed frame but the frame over laps because I started with a long bed and will be a stronger splice this way too.
Having the lower 2" of inner bed sides rusted through and wanting to go lower that the stock floor would allow is what's behind doing it this way.[/QUOTE
It's not to lower it just 3", it is to have 3" head start to going much lower while shorting it.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Have taken it from this to this. Hopefully this weekend I can pick up some hi-temp paint and pull engine and trans. Just picked up a power washer. I have to replace driver side fender,figured since I'm gonna have half of front end off, just go the distance and take everything off. I have a friend who will let me borrow his cherry picker. Gonna pull radiator since it needs a flush. That should make the pulling the 350 straight forward. Also gonna jack up cab and straighten it out a bit.(had wrecked the front passenger side almost ten years ago.) Then putting everything back together should go easier. I think this will make it the 5 or 6 time I've put the front end on. And it won't be the last...Lol.

[texjake]

I started dismantling the dash today to install the new dash pad, new dash speaker, new AM/FM radio & rebulb the gauge cluster. Also while I am at it I'm going to install all new AC vent/defroster duct hoses & replace the heater core. There is enough W. Texas dirt in that dash & the duct hoses to plant rows of cotton!

[74baggedbug]

Fixed the pesky turn signal that was making my turn signal indicator light upon my dash like I had a bulb out.. It would work sometimes and most times not lol.. I forgot how important the ground is on these old trucks

[ochre70]

Decided to replace the valve cover and intake manifold gaskets (trying to chase down an oil leak). Realized after getting everything back together that the PO had wired the plugs his way instead of the traditional way (first time have to stab a dizzy back in & set the timing, so I was still learning). Just an extra hour or so of finding TDC on number 1, restabbing the dizzy and trying to start it over and over again. No big deal...

[WIDESIDE72]

Started on the bed wood install

[Saclandman]

Chevy Claus came a month late: Got my new engine wiring harness delivered today. Now to get it installed...sometime.

[Towstrap]

went to the barn checked on the old girl and day dreaming it was summer and cruising in her

[Andy4639]

I ordered these last night for the truck. Will have to shave the hub I'm pretty sure for them to fit the Boss 338's but they should clean the front wheels up nicely!

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

I ordered these last night for the truck. Will have to shave the hub I'm pretty sure for them to fit the Boss 338's but they should clean the front wheels up nicely!

Are those 13" or 14"

[Mike_The_Grad]

Day 1: took it from this to this. Got everything disconnected except headers and motor mounts. (Yes beer was required...lol)Day 2: gonna get cherry picker and pull this bad boy out. Power wash and paint. Anybody got input on "brand" of engine paint? I'm going with Chevy orange for sure but I've seen different brands, I.e. duplicolor, duralast. I'm doing it myself in my garage. (Budget constraints.) I plan on prof. Paint later. But anything is better than what I have right now. All input accepted. Thanx.

[Elliot949]

For My money on the paint I would go with VHT paint... Here is a link to what I am talking about...

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU

I may be mistaken but I believe this is a Duplicolor paint..

[texjake]

Originally Posted by Mike_The_Grad

Day 1: took it from this to this. Got everything disconnected except headers and motor mounts. (Yes beer was required...lol)Day 2: gonna get cherry picker and pull this bad boy out. Power wash and paint. Anybody got input on "brand" of engine paint? I'm going with Chevy orange for sure but I've seen different brands, I.e. duplicolor, duralast. I'm doing it myself in my garage. (Budget constraints.) I plan on prof. Paint later. But anything is better than what I have right now. All input accepted. Thanx.

2x Go with the VHT Chevy orange engine enamel. A good prep & surface tempature will make any rattle can paint look good & last a good long while. You can get VHT paint at almost any local autoparts store. And yes it is a Dupli•Color paint. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=465104_0_0_

[hamjet]

Originally Posted by Towstrap

went to the barn checked on the old girl and day dreaming it was summer and cruising in her

X2

[texjake]

I finished gutting my dash today to getting ready to replace the heater core & put on a new dash pad and all new AC & defrost duct hoses plus a new AM/FM radio, a new dash speaker & a new smaller steering wheel. It was a great day today! For once the wind didn't blow here like it has in the past 2 weeks.

[Cali72K20]

I washed it, checked all the fluids and took her for a good long cruise, found that my tachometer is way off, about 750-1000 RPMs off @ HWY speeds. I will re-check tomorrow, I have to get an adapter to test it correctly, the lead falls off the HEI tach terminal.

[Cali72K20]

And I scored a brand new in the box complete grill with an OEM Bow-Tie off CL cheap!!!

[9teen69]

Pulled the driveshafts to replace u-joints and carrier bearing...pretty rough. Haven't found a carrier bearing local, guess I'll order that.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by 9teen69

Pulled the driveshafts to replace u-joints and carrier bearing...pretty rough. Haven't found a carrier bearing local, guess I'll order that.

Checked the oil and drove mine for the first time in two weeks today. Went to the machinist's to show him the truck...He was closed. Good for him.
So, I settled for taking RAT to the barber that's been asking me for five years if I really had a truck.

for me to finally stop by. He liked RAT.

Hey! On another subject. And, although mine's already done and spinning nicely (for $165), I have a question about carrier bearings and driveshafts.
With the fail rate that I read about in these carrier bearings, how come everyone doesn't just junk the bearing and have a one-piece driveshaft made up?

Why did The General do it with a two-piece?

I'm six inches lower in the back...So, when I had mine done, I measured with that consideration, if that's an issue.

[texjake]

Originally Posted by magwakeenercew2jh

Checked the oil and drove mine for the first time in two weeks today. Went to the machinist's to show him the truck...He was closed. Good for him.
So, I settled for taking RAT to the barber that's been asking me for five years if I really had a truck.

for me to finally stop by. He liked RAT.

Hey! On another subject. And, although mine's already done and spinning nicely (for $165), I have a question about carrier bearings and driveshafts.
With the fail rate that I read about in these carrier bearings, how come everyone doesn't just junk the bearing and have a one-piece driveshaft made up?

Why did The General do it with a two-piece?

I'm six inches lower in the back...So, when I had mine done, I measured with that consideration, if that's an issue.

I found this about two piece driveshaft vs one piece driveshaft;

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore View Post
It has to do with propshaft (aka "driveshaft") critical speed.

What you guys might be missing is that propshaft critical speed not just based on wheelbase but is also based on trans type (length), rear axle ratio, tire size, and engine type (larger engines allowing a higher top speed) AND/OR any strange resonances in that particular combination (camping out on that resonance will break the trans/transfer case tailshaft housing).

So - a long wheelbase truck with a low (numerical) rear axle ratio spins the shaft slower and might get a one piece, but an otherwise comparable truck with a high rear axle ratio might get a two piece.

One other comment - critical speed is not directly related to balance, but rigidity. When the shaft exceeds it's critical speed it begins to bow in the middle and swing like a jump rope. Hence the disturbance and durability concerns.

You can get around it by going to a larger diameter steel tube - or more expensive alternative materials like aluminum, carbon fiber or "metal matrix" (an aluminum/carbon wrap).

So - on the two 350 trucks - there could have been a tire difference that put it over the edge, or perhaps a different horsepower rating which would allow for a higher top speed. I can assure you there was something different there that is not obvious to us after the fact.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Thanx @ elliot949 &@TeX Jake. Anytime I get two of the same opinions its good enough for me.pictures soon to follow. Any idea on how many cans? I'm gonna paint engine and trans.