72 C10 for my 25th wedding anniversary

[cornerstone]

Nice and clean job!

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Nice and clean job!

Thanks for the kind words. Have you been able to make any progress on your truck? I know you had a lot going on, but even planning and thinking about your truck can count.

[MDPotter]

Nice that your frame has two sets of holes for bumper brackets - seems to be a later years thing. Your frame looks to be in pretty good shape too!

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Nice that your frame has two sets of holes for bumper brackets - seems to be a later years thing. Your frame looks to be in pretty good shape too!

Yeah, I actually didn’t notice about the holes being in the correct location until after I had cut the 8 inch portion off the back end of the frame, and measured to check. They measured out perfectly.
Frame is very good I think. The truck was from California, so that helps. The trucks here in Minnesota only last maybe 8-10 years before the salt and winters take their toll. It’s a shame, a guy barely gets a new vehicle paid for and it’s looking pretty tough. If you want to keep something nice it needs to stay in the garage for the winter.

[sfont66]

Some parts have arrived, I thought the truck oil pan may pose a clearance problem on a lowered truck, so I chose to replace it with one from Top Street Performance. This particular pan had good reviews, I didn’t necessarily want the polished version, but the satin version was out of stock, and I have learned that during Covid-19 it is best to take what is in stock, rather than take a chance on back ordered items....
I was able to replace the old truck pan, the rear main seal and cover gasket, and oil galley plug, as well as bolt a new flywheel in place. Doesn’t seem like much, but progress is progress.
Still waiting on more parts to arrive like headers, engine mounts, gaskets, seals etc, but I have a lot to do while waiting for them to arrive.

[sfont66]

And another one

[MDPotter]

That is the shiniest oil pan I have ever seen!

I hope you're replacing the oil pickup tube o-ring while you're in there!

[sfont66]

[QUOTE=MDPotter;8904988]That is the shiniest oil pan I have ever seen!

I hope you're replacing the oil pickup tube o-ring while you're in there![/

I did replace the o ring with the one supplied with the kit, it was greenish in color. It was difficult to install, and kept rolling over as I attempted to push the tube into the pump. I now am second guessing myself if it is correct.
I will most likely pull the pan back off when replacing the the front timing cover seal and gasket, as well as replacing the oil pump, and try 2 different o rings to see if one is a better fit.
Two steps forward one step back.... but for peace of mind it is worth it, additionally I am learning more about the Ls engine.

[sfont66]

I decided to replace the timing cover gasket and crank seal,while the engine was opened up I decided to replace the oil pump as well.I pulled the oil pan off again to allow access to the pickup tube, and to make things easier, good thing I did! When installing the oil pickup tube previously,I thought it was more difficult than it should have been to install. Well it turned out that I had pinched the O ring upon installing the tube, I feel this time I got it right.
Many smaller items have arrived including a new water pump that will go back on. The headers arrived, and the quality looks great for the price....but not sure I will be able to use them this year, I am having a hard time pulling the trigger on a T56 magnum 6 speed conversion kit, the quote came back at $6800! 3 years ago I received a quote at a booth at the street machine nationals for $5200. I have a request out to another vendor in search of a better deal. If I can’t swing a deal, I can make the old sm465 work for this year. I purchased a pilot bushing, and flywheel that will allow me to use the old school transmission with the 5.3ls, if need be. Not what I want, but it may need to be if I can’t keep costs down.

[MDPotter]

Good thing you opened it back up and caught it! Not an easy fix once it's in the truck.

Are you set on a manual trans? I paid around $3k for my rebuilt 4L80.

[sfont66]

[QUOTE=MDPotter;8910879]Good thing you opened it back up and caught it! Not an easy fix once it's in the truck.

Are you set on a manual trans? I paid around $3k for my rebuilt 4L80.[/QUOTE

Yes, I really like the idea of keeping this truck a manual, much to the dismay of my wife. (She never learned to drive a stick shift) I offered to teach her many times, but she has always refused to learn. She has mentioned a few times about building her a truck with an automatic transmission and we have casually been keeping an eye out for the right truck.
I think building that truck would be fun, adding more options, especially A/C and cruise control, and......

[sfont66]

So... been a minute, I thought that this spring would be slow at work, and I could work on the truck, but I was wrong. We have been very busy, picked up a new contract so overtime and Saturdays. Less time for the C10 has meant a change in plans and expectations. Originally I had hoped to have the truck back together again for the Street Machine Nationals. That most likely won’t happen this year.
I had gathered parts and a flywheel that would have allowed me to use the old school Sm465 4 speed, the plan was to throw it back in with the stock 5.3 for the summer, and tear it apart again this winter and install a tremec T56 6 speed, and build up the engine some.
I even got to the point where I mated the old transmission to the 5.3 and mocked it up in the frame and was going to use the 5.3 truck exhaust manifolds for exhaust.... my wife kept saying, why are you going to do things twice??
After a few weeks she was making more sense than I was, so I relented and took a portion of her advice. I reluctantly agreed it was not possible to make it to the nationals this year with the C10, and that I should concentrate on next year and not spend money twice, like on parts , drive shafts, tuning, etc. but also on time and effort.
Here are a few pics of the engine and old school trans in the frame. It can be done, but using the old clutch linkage and Z bar would be more difficult to run exhaust, along with the old 4 speed transmission crossmember. The Ls swap headers hit the crossmember, so they were a no go. Stock truck exhaust manifolds work, but the Z Bar is in the way, so I would have to go with a hydraulic clutch to make them work.
So the thought of buying a hydraulic clutch actuator system, drive shaft, and exhaust, and running it only a summer , was just dumb.
More to come after this short break.....

[sfont66]

So, I finally did it. I pulled the trigger on a T56 Magnum 6 speed transmission.
It’s due to arrive Friday, but they sent me a few pics before it shipped out on Tuesday, so here’s proof that it’s on its way. Tracking shows it left Tennessee on Tuesday, and was in Chicago on Wednesday, on its way to Minnesota still on time to arrive Friday. So cool! Can’t wait to see it in the frame.
For some reason i can’t upload any pics, says a security token is missing.
?? Not sure , I’ve tried 3 times once last night, and again this morning.
I will try again after work.

[sfont66]

I needed the old 4 speed transmission crossmember out of the way, since it would no longer be usable. I used a cut off wheel in a 4” grinder to cut a couple of grooves in the rivet, then a large chisel and a BFH. A few hard whacks and the heads of the rivets come off. Probably took 15 minutes max. Later I did spray down the greasy areas with EZ off oven cleaner, and power washed the front of the frame. Forgot to snap a pic, but it really works well. Now it should be ready to sandblast, epoxy prime, and paint

[sfont66]

A few pics of the new T56 magnum 6 speed that arrived 5/28

[MDPotter]

How cool of her that she encouraged you to order what you really wanted! There are a few things I wish I would have done in the first place (and ended up buying it twice), so glad to see you making that choice here with the transmission as it's a big one.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

How cool of her that she encouraged you to order what you really wanted! There are a few things I wish I would have done in the first place (and ended up buying it twice), so glad to see you making that choice here with the transmission as it's a big one.

Yep, she’s great, totally supportive.
For now I will have to focus on getting the truck back together, hopefully before fall. I had saved a bit of $ for a 2 post lift, but that money had to go towards the transmission. But it does leave an opportunity for someone to get me a nice anniversary gift. I may have to leave a few hints in the up coming months...
Next up I will need to buy a engine wiring harness (the stock one is hacked up)I would also need a tac module and DBW pedal, I didn’t get these with the engine, so I am thinking it may be better to purchase a complete aftermarket set up?

[MDPotter]

There are lots of options for pedals and harnesses - PSI is a pretty good source. You might have to hit up a junkyard to find a TAC module - make sure you research which one you need as I think there are differences in them.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

There are lots of options for pedals and harnesses - PSI is a pretty good source. You might have to hit up a junkyard to find a TAC module - make sure you research which one you need as I think there are differences in them.

This past weekend i had a chance to look at the PSI website, looks like they sell a complete kit with everything i need. the harness,gas peddle ,tac module,MAF sensor,etc. seems like the way to go for me since i hate wiring, and with all the parts coming from one place , hopefully less issues to sort out. Next time i will try a bit harder to buy a complete engine with everything included.

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by sfont66

This past weekend i had a chance to look at the PSI website, looks like they sell a complete kit with everything i need. the harness,gas peddle ,tac module,MAF sensor,etc. seems like the way to go for me since i hate wiring, and with all the parts coming from one place , hopefully less issues to sort out. Next time i will try a bit harder to buy a complete engine with everything included.

You can also consider Holley's Terminator X Max - it is a computer and wiring harness that controls engine and transmission. It will cost more than a GM computer, PSI harness, and tac module but tuning with Holley's software is much easier and it has more capabilities than the GM brick of a computer and HPTuners software that is not intuitive at all. Just something to think about. If you're going for more of a factory setup, GM route is fine.

[sfont66]

Made a bit of progress, I was able to sandblast, epoxy prime, and paint the front portion of the frame rails. (I did the back half a couple years ago) later I will have to disassemble the front suspension and do a better job on these pieces ,For now I need the the frame to stay A roller . I was also able to measure the flywheel and bell housing runout and then install the T56 magnum this past weekend. I threw a header on quick to check the fit. Fit was good but lower than I had hoped. I do like to keep the exhaust tucked up within the frame out of sight.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

You can also consider Holley's Terminator X Max - it is a computer and wiring harness that controls engine and transmission. It will cost more than a GM computer, PSI harness, and tac module but tuning with Holley's software is much easier and it has more capabilities than the GM brick of a computer and HPTuners software that is not intuitive at all. Just something to think about. If you're going for more of a factory setup, GM route is fine.

Thanks again for the info, I do appreciate it.
I will definitely take a look at the Holley system. One thing I will also need to consider/research is that at some point I would like to upgrade the stock truck intake and injectors. If I buy the harness now, will the connectors for the fuel injectors need to be swapped or changed for different injectors?

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by sfont66

Thanks again for the info, I do appreciate it.
I will definitely take a look at the Holley system. One thing I will also need to consider/research is that at some point I would like to upgrade the stock truck intake and injectors. If I buy the harness now, will the connectors for the fuel injectors need to be swapped or changed for different injectors?

You can buy adapters for most common injector connection types, so I wouldn't worry about that. EV6 and EV1 are common, Multec not as much just because those injectors don't have the same flow capabilities as the others.

[sfont66]

Update: I kinda stalled out on the intake and wiring harness, I want/need 42 lb injectors, an upgraded intake possibly an LS 6, or LS 2, or maybe even a Fast intake. As well as an upgraded throttle body, possibly going back to DBC instead of DBW. And then order a Holley engine management system that plays nice with all. Future plans are for a cam swap and ported heads as well.

But, until I can make a few decisions on that I decided to tackle the shortening of the steel bed floor. On a 68 GMC I did back in 2012 I sectioned that floor by cutting 12 inches out of the front removing the second cross member and welding it back together, much the same in the back where 8 inches had to come out. That was a lot of welding, but even more grinding.

This time I wanted to try something different, and save on having to weld and grind the 2 long seams.This method was done by 65 standard back in 2015 and more recently on U tube but the process is the same.
I started the same way, I measured 12 inches from the front and drew a cut line with a sharpie and cut the pan along the line. In the rear I measured in an made a mark at 7.5 inches that became my cut line. I also made a mark at 8 inches, this became my tip over line.

[sfont66]

In the back where the stake pockets meet the bed floor, I originally thought I could form this up, but as it turned out, it was just easier to cut it out and graft in the correct corner piece off the original floor.
I chose to tip over the 1/2” of metal before reinstalling the rear crossmember, I did this with a pair of flanging pliers, and then a hammer and dolly. The crossmember needed to be cleaned up a bit in the area where the crossmember and the pan meet, so I sandblasted this area, and applied weld thru primer in the areas that would get plug welds, and etching primer is other areas.
I still have to grind down the plug welds , and locate and drill the 4 holes for the bed bolts, I may even drill the front crossmember from below and tack weld in a piece of pipe so the bolts don’t tend to crush the bed pan when tightened down.
As for the fit of the bedsides….. the driver side fit great, no issues, the passenger side needed the typical help with bolt hole alignment.( a die grinder and bit are your friend here) eventually it will all have to come apart again for primer and paint, but with the bed on I was hoping to try to work on the exhaust, helping to locate the tips if I decide to go out the side in front of the rear tire again