Scott's '51 Build

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Scott, while I haven't checked yards around here I am going to guess 15 inch wheels 5 x 4 3/4 bolt pattern are pretty rare as those wheels haven't been used in production for a long time. I needed one wheel for a shop roller and I didn't want to fool around trying to find one somewhere, so I ordered a new ralley wheel from Jegs...$60, no fuss, here in 2 days.

For your wheel tub...I guess measure the trailer fenders to see what fits the best. For your crossmember mount reuse the existing flange (or make one) and plug weld to side of trailer fender. Of course your cross sill will need shortening the matching amount.

Or carefully slice the bed side out, move it in the needed amount and fill the gap with 19 gauge.

TCI chassis...cool! Must be a new acquisition?

Doug,

I bought the chassis a year ago. It's nice - 4 link rear w/9 inch, IFS, Ride Tech coilovers all around and R&P steering. It saved me a ton of work and I don't have a lot of spare time with work and business travel. I had to weld in gas tank supports and still need to weld a steering shaft support and install the exhaust, then it's tear down time and off to the sandblaster and powder coater.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Doug,

I bought the chassis a year ago. It's nice - 4 link rear w/9 inch, IFS, Ride Tech coilovers all around and R&P steering. It saved me a ton of work and I don't have a lot of spare time with work and business travel. I had to weld in gas tank supports and still need to weld a steering shaft support and install the exhaust, then it's tear down time and off to the sandblaster and powder coater.

Sorry Scott...Apparently I didn't recall I was drooling all over it back on page 1!

[joedoh]

I hear you on hard to find 15" with 4 3/4 pattern steel wheels. I am buying them every time I see them for sale. I have a few 15x5 and 15x6 seem to be most common. I got lucky and found an old paper wheel exchange book at a tire store while getting my tires rotated, and found out which cars came factory with 15x7 4 3/4 pattern, they are less common than you think, and then did a search on car-part to see which yard had a car (it was a 1980 olds 88) in stock. I got all 4 for $100.

but even that is going to be a bit of a trick. like doug says, you can find about an width even 15x8 (my preference for a rear wheel, takes up to a 275 easily) on summit or jegs for low $$. they are dual drilled 4 3/4 and 4.5 but with caps on no one knows.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I hear you on hard to find 15" with 4 3/4 pattern steel wheels. I am buying them every time I see them for sale. I have a few 15x5 and 15x6 seem to be most common. I got lucky and found an old paper wheel exchange book at a tire store while getting my tires rotated, and found out which cars came factory with 15x7 4 3/4 pattern, they are less common than you think, and then did a search on car-part to see which yard had a car (it was a 1980 olds 88) in stock. I got all 4 for $100.

but even that is going to be a bit of a trick. like doug says, you can find about an width even 15x8 (my preference for a rear wheel, takes up to a 275 easily) on summit or jegs for low $$. they are dual drilled 4 3/4 and 4.5 but with caps on no one knows.

I think I have this figured out. I just made a round of calls and found a guy with a machine shop in his back yard. He's going to open up the center of the wheels I bought for $30 for two wheels. Great deal and they should fit fine after that - of course I still have to tub the rear. The real deal here may be finding the friendly machinist.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Scott2

The real deal here may be finding the friendly machinist.

haha may? $15 a wheel is hardly a blip. I would take him a 30pack as a tip

[Scott2]

Dropped the wheels off to get the centers machined out. However, in spite of these being 15" wheels, they do not clear the Wilwood brake calipers or the caliper brackets. Those are just mocked up right now so I'm pulling them off to get the wheels on. What a pain.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Dropped the wheels off to get the centers machined out. However, in spite of these being 15" wheels, they do not clear the Wilwood brake calipers or the caliper brackets. Those are just mocked up right now so I'm pulling them off to get the wheels on. What a pain.

Long process to get rollers on this truck - hard to find any wheels at all around here, found some finally but had to machine the centers to clear the front hubs and then they hung up on the calipers and the steering linkage. Too much backspace so I ordered a set of 2" spacers. That worked and now it's on the ground and rolled outside for the first time in about 16 months.

Tires are 26-1/2" tall, front edge of the running board is 5" off the ground.

[nvrdone]

as far as exhaust, ive got ram horn manifolds with 2.5" pipe into thrush turbo's ending in front of the axle. no drone - just lots of rumble. especially since the system is 25 plus years old & the mufflers are totally blown out. time to build a new system !!

[reaper71]

Scott, build is coming along nicely!

Exhaust: I build all my systems, I start with the Speedway kit It comes with 4 straight 4 U bends 4 90's and 4 45 mandrel bends in 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 sizes for around 140-150 range also ava. in stainless if you prefer. I cut clock and weld all the pieces and use 3 bolt flanges with in the system so it can be taken apart.
Mufflers: I used flowtech for the last 2 builds and sounds really nice and are around 25 each.
Here are a few shots of one system I finished up awhile back,I mig weld most of all the systems until lately when I finally bought a TIG welder.
the system has 3 mufflers so it would be quiet (for his kids in the back)

Hope this helps
Mark...

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by reaper71

Scott, build is coming along nicely!

Exhaust: I build all my systems, I start with the Speedway kit It comes with 4 straight 4 U bends 4 90's and 4 45 mandrel bends in 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 sizes for around 140-150 range also ava. in stainless if you prefer. I cut clock and weld all the pieces and use 3 bolt flanges with in the system so it can be taken apart.
Mufflers: I used flowtech for the last 2 builds and sounds really nice and are around 25 each.
Here are a few shots of one system I finished up awhile back,I mig weld most of all the systems until lately when I finally bought a TIG welder.
the system has 3 mufflers so it would be quiet (for his kids in the back)

Hope this helps
Mark...

Mark - your work looks great! I'm going to look at some of the kit options.

Scott

[Advanced Design]

Scott, last truck I built I took it to the local exhaust shop. He bent everything to fit, cleared the underfloor booster and master and it wasn't too expensive. It was a really simple exhaust.

Current Burb build I used a Pypes crossover, Hooker / Holley downpipes for the 73 to 87 swap kit and some other pieces I ordered from Jegs to put a stainless system together. Guessing I spent maybe $500.

And next one I will probably follow Reapers formula listed above.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Scott, last truck I built I took it to the local exhaust shop. He bent everything to fit, cleared the underfloor booster and master and it wasn't too expensive. It was a really simple exhaust.

Current Burb build I used a Pypes crossover, Hooker / Holley downpipes for the 73 to 87 swap kit and some other pieces I ordered from Jegs to put a stainless system together. Guessing I spent maybe $500.

And next one I will probably follow Reapers formula listed above.

Doug - thanks! I am going to look at some kits and also check out a few other shops. In the past I cut headers apart and rerouted them and played with exhaust a bit but they were all just mild steel. I'm unsure about welding the aluminized steel or SS. Have to do some more research.

[Scott2]

Another question - I am doing an LS swap and have a 2006 motor and the DBW gas pedal. I searched around looking for mounting tips on the pedal but so far only found newer years including a nice bracket one of the members sells for 60's or 70's trucks. Anyone have advice on how to mount the pedal in my '51?

Thanks!

[Scott2]

Got a little work done today. I ordered a Flaming River column and got the wrong length. They were great and the new one is on the way. In the meantime I filled the gas filler hole on the cab and started fabbing a small trans tunnel. Almost don't need one as the trans doesn't stick thru but does make contact. This should do the trick.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Another question - I am doing an LS swap and have a 2006 motor and the DBW gas pedal. I searched around looking for mounting tips on the pedal but so far only found newer years including a nice bracket one of the members sells for 60's or 70's trucks. Anyone have advice on how to mount the pedal in my '51?

Thanks!

Scott, I have to do the same for mine. Hart Rob sells the mounts for a 67 to 72 truck. Since that one won't work for our trucks I am going to build a mount.

Basically, with the seat, steering column and brake assembly in position find a comfortable position for the pedal assembly mocked in place. A third hand device would be really handy...once mocked in place, build a mount to weld to firewall the pedal assembly can bolt to.

The truck assembly is pretty chunky and a Corvette assembly might fit better. Lokar has a very adjustable unit though it is pricey.

Just thinking aloud as I haven't done I yet.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Scott, I have to do the same for mine. Hart Rob sells the mounts for a 67 to 72 truck. Since that one won't work for our trucks I am going to build a mount.

Basically, with the seat, steering column and brake assembly in position find a comfortable position for the pedal assembly mocked in place. A third hand device would be really handy...once mocked in place, build a mount to weld to firewall the pedal assembly can bolt to.

The truck assembly is pretty chunky and a Corvette assembly might fit better. Lokar has a very adjustable unit though it is pricey.

Just thinking aloud as I haven't done I yet.

Thanks Doug - I've been going down the path of trying to mount the truck pedal and was going to do basically what you suggested. I may look around for a Corvette pedal though - that sounds like a good idea. Does the same harness plug in to that pedal as well?

[74project]

Scott. No problems at all with overheating. Last summer driving around in 115 my champion radiator and entropy fan worked great. I did not shroud it. I did make sure gaps were covered around the frame .. grill .. and so forth to get max air flow through the radiator and not around. I drive more on the freeway also.... I do suggest getting their stand alone harness to set a timer thats a soon purchase for me. I will get you some pics of the fan. I'm installing some Altman bear claws now..... between buying those and unable to save my door hinges I got kicked in the nuts for almost 700. Damn... just when you think there's nothing else to buy.

[Cautrell05]

Looks good. How do you set front end alignment though? It all looks like it is fixed control arm mounts.

[joedoh]

I just noticed you are from castle rock, I get there once in a while, my wifes best friend lives there with her family.

truck is looking really great!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I just noticed you are from castle rock, I get there once in a while, my wifes best friend lives there with her family.

truck is looking really great!

Thanks! Let me know if you're headed this way. If we're around I'll buy you a beer. And if you happen to know of a decent pass side running board somewhere along the way drag it along with you! I haven't been able to find one that hasn't lost numerous battles with big rocks.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Cautrell05

Looks good. How do you set front end alignment though? It all looks like it is fixed control arm mounts.

Sorry - it took a few days to go look at it. The top control arm mounts into an eccentric rod that allows you to pull the arm in and out, that same rod slides forward and back which moves the arm forward and back, with the bottom control arm fixed there's pretty good adjustment..

[Scott2]

Got my replacement/longer Flaming River column so I'm working on the steering today. Mocked it up and it works ok. I'm still thinking if I move the support toward the cab a few inches I may get a straighter shot.

Thoughts or words of wisdom?

[reaper71]

What are your angles at?
For a single joint like you have they should not exceed 35 degrees. I try to get them much lower than that just for a smoother feel. I try to stay in the 25 degree range.
Don't get me wrong the setup looks ok, it's just the angles look steep to me.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by reaper71

What are your angles at?
For a single joint like you have they should not exceed 35 degrees. I try to get them much lower than that just for a smoother feel. I try to stay in the 25 degree range.
Don't get me wrong the setup looks ok, it's just the angles look steep to me.

I'll measure the angles this morning. It all seems to work smoothly but they do look a little steep. I moved it all around and couldn't get a better angle - yet. That's why I posted it - this is my first time installing the steering and want to be sure I'm thinking about it right. I think I can also possibly look cutting a new hole for the column to go thru down a little lower?

Thanks!

[reaper71]

Yes Sir!
That's what this site is for! I have been building Car's/Trucks for alot of years now (do it for a living) and steering and brakes are king of the hill for getting it right!
With these trucks the steering columns were a bit oddly placed from factory and you could always move it if needed. to make it better for you sitting in the seat

Mark.