Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter

[DeadheadNM]

I’ve been following along and wanted to say thanks for the detailed build documentation. I’m intrigued by LS swaps into K trucks and you’ve paved a good path for others. The truck and build are outstanding.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

I’ve been following along and wanted to say thanks for the detailed build documentation. I’m intrigued by LS swaps into K trucks and you’ve paved a good path for others. The truck and build are outstanding.

Thanks for the kind words. This is my first LS swap, so I'm learning as I go along. I'm doing everything by myself. There are probably better ways of doing some of the things I've done and I'm sure I'll make some mistakes. This forum is an excellent source for information and the members are always willing to help. if I can reciprocate by helping someone out, it'll make me feel that much better.

[First c10]

Hey dan.
Truck is looking great. Thank you for the lick to the bed floor. I talked with Frank and he is working with me on some custom cut flooring for my project.

I was wondering how you got the decal now I know. Rock on brother.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey dan.
Truck is looking great. Thank you for the lick to the bed floor. I talked with Frank and he is working with me on some custom cut flooring for my project.

I was wondering how you got the decal now I know. Rock on brother.

Excellent! Can't wait to see what you do. Keep me posted. Will you go with the drop-in kit, or bolt-in kit? I went with drop-in kit here because it made sense for this project, but when I get back on my '71 C10 project it'll be a bolt in kit. Peace out!

[First c10]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

Excellent! Can't wait to see what you do. Keep me posted. Will you go with the drop-in kit, or bolt-in kit? I went with drop-in kit here because it made sense for this project, but when I get back on my '71 C10 project it'll be a bolt in kit. Peace out!

I have a '72 wood floor bed. It will be the bolt in kit with hidden fasteners!

[Thealien]

Bravo sir, Bravo!

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Bravo sir, Bravo!

Thank you sir. It's kind of ironic you're posting today. This morning I went through and read your WTB and sale threads on the Blazer. Very disappointing, but you will pull through. There are a lot of great members here. Chalk it up to one bad experience and a learning lesson. Good luck with your shoulder issues my friend!

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

Thank you sir. It's kind of ironic you're posting today. This morning I went through and read your WTB and sale threads on the Blazer. Very disappointing, but you will pull through. There are a lot of great members here. Chalk it up to one bad experience and a learning lesson. Good luck with your shoulder issues my friend!

Thank you. Even when I wasn't injured I didn't have your skill, or awesome garage!

I did a similar build in a Jimmy over 10 years ago. It was fun and really makes these trucks enjoyable to drive.

[derotoreut]

So I'm doing some work on my AC lines. I want to conceal my AC and heater lines in the PS fender. I know that I could put a bulkhead on the firewall, but that would be too easy, LOL.

I bought this inexpensive bulkhead (sorry made in China) to use inside the PS fresh air vent.




My plan is to install the bulkhead inside the vent with the good side of the bulkhead inside the vent and the nuts on the outside (bottom) of the vent. This way I can remove each piece, make the connection outside of the vent and then put it back inside. Otherwise I wouldn't be able to get wrenches inside the vent to tighten the AC and heater hose connections.





This side will go on the bottom of the vent.

[derotoreut]

The bulkhead connectors have flats on them so they won't spin in the bulkhead plate.






I'm planning to use these fittings on the bottom of the vent.

[derotoreut]

AC Line Update: I've been doing a little more work on the routing of my AC and heater lines. I drilled holes in the bottom of the passenger side fresh air vent in order to mount my AC/Heater bulkhead. I drilled the first hole and then realized that layout wouldn't work. I ended up with an extra hole, but that will be mostly covered by the bulkhead. I'm not worried about it.



I mounted the bulkhead from inside the fresh air vent. I know it looks weird with the good side hidden in the vent, but this will allow me to remove each of the connectors and make the connections with the hoses outside of the vent. Otherwise, I would not be able to get wrenches inside of the vent to tighten the connections. I originally wanted to put grommets in the bottom of the vent, but it was impossible to bend the AC and heater hoses.



Here is the bottom of the fresh air vent, where I will tighten each of the bulkhead connectors.



Here is how the AC and heater hose fittings will come out of the bottom of the fresh air vent.





I slowly keep banging away at it. Peace Out!

[1971Stepside]

I like how you ran these. Have you fit the hoses on the interior yet?

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I like how you ran these. Have you fit the hoses on the interior yet?

I made up a couple of sections so far. I'm using VA's EZ-Clip system for my hoses, so I make them up myself. I'll get more pictures as I go along.

[Richard]

Pretty cool what you have done there. Are you doing hard lines all the way into the engine compartment?

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by Richard

Pretty cool what you have done there. Are you doing hard lines all the way into the engine compartment?

No I'm using VA's EZ-Clip hoses from the cab to the engine compartment.

[derotoreut]

I worked on installing my Derale transmission cooler. I bought the Derale model 52506, 25-row stack plate cooler.

(https://derale.com/product-footer/fl...-inlets-detail)

Here is the Derale cooler I bought



Today I made up a mount for the front of my condenser and core support.



I put in a couple of rivet nuts on the core support to attach the bracket.



Put the other bracket on and leveled out.

[derotoreut]

Installed the trans cooler.





Had to space out the bracket away from the condenser. I love using stainless button head screws.


This is the hose and fittings I'm planning to use.

[derotoreut]

I just got my Speed Engineering headers back. I sent them out and had them ceramic coated, black satin color. They did a good job and coated inside of the primaries and collector.

[DeadheadNM]

Question re the Pacific Fab x-member. Any reason to suspect it would not clear the differential on a stock height truck?

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Question re the Pacific Fab x-member. Any reason to suspect it would not clear the differential on a stock height truck?

The short answer is YES. According to Pacific Fab, you need to either have new factory springs or install a 2" lift. If springs are old and sagging, they cannot guarantee it. I had old, original springs and one was actually cracked, which I didn't realize until I replaced them.

See the attached link, and the fine print at the bottom which states:

Not designed for 2wd vehicles.

Note: This crossmember is designed to be used with new factory springs. If your vehicles springs are worn out or sagging a 2" lift may be necessary for clearance to the front differential. Subject to availability.

http://pacificfabrication.com/63-72-...ssmembers.html

[DeadheadNM]

I had seen that. Thanks for confirming. Seems like a cleaner xmember than the DD example.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

I had seen that. Thanks for confirming. Seems like a cleaner xmember than the DD example.

No problem. I'm really happy with it. You might be able to get away with using it if you have decent stock springs.

[derotoreut]

I worked a little bit on figuring out an upper radiator hose. I think I'm going to use two 45-degree elbows with a piece of 1-1/2" stainless connector in between.

[derotoreut]

I bought the Lokar firewall mount transmission dipstick for 4L60E. I hope the length of the dipstick inside the transmission is correct, since I don't have a stock one to gauge it to.




Marked off the location on the firewall and drilled and tapped it.



Install complete

[derotoreut]

A friend of mine owns a welding and fabrication company. He used his company's CNC machining center and made me this shifter boot ring for my NP205. It's made out of 3/8" aluminum, so it's thicker then the stock one. All other dimensions are the same. Pretty cool.