68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel

[68post]

Originally Posted by marvgarr68

Thanks. Just swap in an overdrive trans. I'm sure the mpg increase would pay for that. You can put just about anything behind a na 6.2 even a 700r4.

The G20 van is sitting with a blown-up 6.5 na and a 4L60 that needs rebuilt. I'd be able to tow anything with my 4.10 gears and the 4L60, but it would be in od by 40 mph.

Approx. 2,200 rpm in od with my tire height @ 70 mph.
And you're right, it should average about 16 to 19 mpg !

[jbclassix]

Wow! That is officially the first time I have liked one of the 6.5L turbo power beauty covers! That is one sharp looking engine.

[marvgarr68]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Wow! That is officially the first time I have liked one of the 6.5L turbo power beauty covers! That is one sharp looking engine.

I know what you mean. I wasn't going to use one but thought it would clean it up a little. It is hard as can be to find one of these covers everyone throws them away. This one is for the mech IP but can't find one for the elect IP. They are an ugly looking gray. Thanks for the kind words it does look good hope it runs as good as it looks.

[marvgarr68]

Originally Posted by 68post

The G20 van is sitting with a blown-up 6.5 na and a 4L60 that needs rebuilt. I'd be able to tow anything with my 4.10 gears and the 4L60, but it would be in od by 40 mph.

Approx. 2,200 rpm in od with my tire height @ 70 mph.
And you're right, it should average about 16 to 19 mpg !

70 is good for towing 65 is better. I don't like towing fast. You never know what idiot will pull in front and slam on the brakes. 16 to 19 mpg in a 4.10 truck is great.

[jbclassix]

I may have the OBD II style laying around somewhere. You could have that if you want it. But I think you're right the 94-95 would look better.

[Dieselwrencher]

It looks really nice. It should make for a beast of a 6.5 too.

[marvgarr68]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

It looks really nice. It should make for a beast of a 6.5 too.

Thanks.

[marvgarr68]

Here are some pics of the clutch linkage. I made the bracket on the engine side and the frame side. The bracket is mounted to the bell housing. The bell housing is a 56 Belair.

[marvgarr68]

Here are some more I still have to paint it.

[marvgarr68]

I got the main pos cable routed. I routed it over the trans clamped it to the flange the runs over the trans. I got the clutch linkage done. I mounted and wired the baro sensor. I then finished the wiring on the engine I hooked it up to the factory harness in the valley of the engine. I also wired up the glow plug relay and the water sensor in the filter housing.

[jbclassix]

Do you need some exhaust manifold bolts? Also, I was wondering what you used for your fuel line from filter to pump? I want to do something similar for my heater lines.

[marvgarr68]

The line I am using is 8AN aluminum tubing from Summit. When I do my heater lines I am going to use 10AN line. 8AN is 1/2 10AN is 5/8. I used regular AN fittings 37 deg flare. You use tube nuts and tube sleeves it isn't very expensive. I have all the bolts most all of the bolts on the engine I replaced. The only reason I have only two bolts on the manifolds is because I was mocking them up. They will be removed and ceramic coated jet black. Thanks. I am happy to answer anymore questions. I still have this piston coating if anyone is interested.

[jbclassix]

Still interested in the coating... just not that far yet. But u was wondering about the bending tools for the AL lines

[marvgarr68]

That's the tricky part. For long rad bends I used my hands. For real short bends like the ones for the IP I put a spring inside. The bends for the IP are real tight. Tighter then 1/2 line should be bent with out a mandrel. The spring I used was for bending tubing but was ment to be outside the tubing. I think it was a 1/4 tubing bender spring it fit inside the 1/2 line perfect. Then bend the tubing the spring keeps the tubing from kinking. Then just pull the spring out.

[jbclassix]

Thanks. I want to go to hard line for my heater core and fuel lines but wasn't sure how to avoid kinks in the Al. The Springs inside is genius. I'm also considering running my heater supply line off both rear ports, but there seems to be quite a bit of debate on the effect on cooling on that one.

[marvgarr68]

Do you mean plumbing the heater core inlet to the rear ports on the heads? I see know reason that would not work. You just have to make sure you connect the outlet to the water pump or the rad side tank. I am going to use the stock ports on mine when I put a heater in it. I was going to use a water to air inter cooler. I was going to use the heater ports but there would not be any cooling flow when the t stat opens. There would only be hot water.

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by marvgarr68

Do you mean plumbing the heater core inlet to the rear ports on the heads? I see know reason that would not work. You just have to make sure you connect the outlet to the water pump or the rad side tank. I am going to use the stock ports on mine when I put a heater in it. I was going to use a water to air inter cooler. I was going to use the heater ports but there would not be any cooling flow when the t stat opens. There would only be hot water.

I just eliminated the factory quick disconnect from the crossover. I will leave the heater return in the radiator.

Funny thing you want to use a LTA intercooler... I have been working on the same thing! I plan on running a stand-alone cooling system for it though, and possibly running a pulley driven pump where the vacuum pump would be.

I don't mean to clutter up your build thread with all my questions...

[marvgarr68]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

I just eliminated the factory quick disconnect from the crossover. I will leave the heater return in the radiator.

Funny thing you want to use a LTA intercooler... I have been working on the same thing! I plan on running a stand-alone cooling system for it though, and possibly running a pulley driven pump where the vacuum pump would be.

I don't mean to clutter up your build thread with all my questions...

Don't even worry about cluttering up the thread. Yea I was going to use LTA but all the plumbing was going to clutter up the engine compartment. I am going to use a front mount ATA intercooler 31x12 size. Running an engine driven pump is awesome hope you can get it done and post pics.

[Dieselwrencher]

Great work! It's coming together nicely.

[marvgarr68]

Thanks

[Lemield]

Hey Marvgarr68,

I don't wish to hijack your thread but I since I've been following your diesel swap, I thought you might want to see my latest swap....not a Chevy truck though...but still neat.

Your truck is looking good. You do nice work!

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/la...opic31970.html

[marvgarr68]

Thanks. Love your diesel swap. I like the unusual swaps they are more creative.

[jbclassix]

Hey Marv how's the truck coming? Mine is having IP issues.

[marvgarr68]

It's coming along. I sold my Volvo truck and bought a lot of parts. I got all the steering in including th steering gear. I got flywheel, clutch, and ARP flywheel bolts. I removed the whole front clip to modify the core support. It's all done, repainted and back in truck. I spent 7 days hand straightening the radiator fins and then painted it. Got shroud cleaned up and installed along with rad and fan. All the brakes are done and complete including new drums. I will post pics soon. What is wrong with your IP? Is it DB4 or DB2?

[jbclassix]

I have a 95 with the DS4. The advance won't work and no power with no smoke. I have a spare DS4 for the truck. I hope it's good