How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 - Page 4 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Mike J · 03-12-2011, 12:00 PM

Eastwood welder looks kinda like a Lincoln. Eastwood is where I bought my Lincoln, but it's been at least 10 years ago. Maybe they just rebadge them?

FRENCHBLUE72 · 03-12-2011, 12:47 PM

Glad to see your life back in order and back to the trucks... Congrats..

gringoloco · 03-12-2011, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brn agn

Everything is looking good. I think you definitely got your use out of the old speaker!

Yeah, someone did. I pulled it outta the local yard- my truck was bare-bones- I mainly grabbed it for the bracket...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike J

Eastwood welder looks kinda like a Lincoln. Eastwood is where I bought my Lincoln, but it's been at least 10 years ago. Maybe they just rebadge them?

I don't think it's a Lincoln, but I agree it does look a lot like one. It reviewed very well, so I went for it, hope I don't regret going cheap, but you know how that goes...

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Glad to see your life back in order and back to the trucks... Congrats..

Thanks

Good to be back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

I like this one. Is this the purple you're referring to? It looks blue on my MacBook.

Haha- wanna buy it?

Looked blue to me in pictures too...

hotrodhomi · 03-12-2011, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Haha- wanna buy it?

Looked blue to me in pictures too...

No thanks, I have one already.

**lolife99** · 03-12-2011, 09:47 PM

Great idea on the truck ralley wheel FAQ thread!

gringoloco · 03-12-2011, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Great idea on the truck ralley wheel FAQ thread!

Thought you might like it. I'll just be plagiarizing your posts anyway

hotrodhomi · 03-12-2011, 03:37 PM

I like this one. Is this the purple you're referring to? It looks blue on my MacBook.

hotrodhomi · 03-17-2011, 11:56 PM

looks good. What did you do to address the rear where the tailgate steps up to the raised bed?

gringoloco · 03-18-2011, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

looks good. What did you do to address the rear where the tailgate steps up to the raised bed?

With the gate down, there will be a 3" step there. Not much that could be done other than fabricating a custom set of hinges, I guess

Good thing the truck is low enough to just drop stuff in over the bedsides

CheyenneShop · 03-18-2011, 01:29 AM

Wood floor looks GREAT!

Are you going to stain it?

VA72C10 · 03-18-2011, 06:11 AM

very nice! Love the look of a wood bed!!!

**67cheby** · 03-18-2011, 09:29 AM

nice work

**lolife99** · 03-18-2011, 10:08 AM

Any plans to space the wood up off the metal floor?
I wondered about water/moisture being trapped between the two.

gringoloco · 03-18-2011, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theCheyenneShop

Wood floor looks GREAT!

Are you going to stain it?

I have a little bit different than the 'normal' resto plans for this one. We'll see what happens, as I'm prone to changing my mind frequently

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

very nice! Love the look of a wood bed!!!

Thanks, me too!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67cheby

nice work

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Any plans to space the wood up off the metal floor?
I wondered about water/moisture being trapped between the two.

Yeah, I have pondered using some sort of cross strips, but don't want to eat up all of my raised floor space. I can probably spare a 1/4 inch without missing it though. If I decide to bolt the wood to the steel floor, it will get painted and probably rubberized undercoating.
Posted via Mobile Device

SCOTI · 03-18-2011, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I have a little bit different than the 'normal' resto plans for this one. We'll see what happens, as I'm prone to changing my mind frequently

Paging P.Tina . . ..... paging P.Tina.....
Is there a P.Tina in the house?

gringoloco · 03-18-2011, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Paging P.Tina . . ..... paging P.Tina.....
Is there a P.Tina in the house?

Never met her, but I do like the idea of not having to worry about every little scratch, chip, or door ding

Posted via Mobile Device

Edit: I also hear she's cheap, low-maintenance, and doesn't mind hanging out in the Wal-Mart parking lot...

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 12:25 AM

Been playing with the truck a little bit more the last couple of days. I spent way more time than I care to share getting the fan shroud aligned- VERY little clearance around the clutch fan on my serp setup- but now it's done and installed for the last time

Also finished up the underhood wiring, spent a ton of time chasing down a new lower radiator hose (do you guys' LAPSs suck as bad as mine do? <--rhetorical question), and finished up the last few things on the front suspension which included welding up a wallowed-out upper shock mount hole and finished installing my 1.25" sway bar and poly bushings (more leftovers from the Blazer), which makes the front suspension officially DONE except getting it aligned

Unfortunately, none of this is really picture worthy...

Buuuut, you can't have an update without pics, so I'll stick a few up of my 'new' brake booster and bracket assembly with the new master cylinder installed, which also shows the rad and shroud installed (I know, nothing to look at, but I am happy that stinking shroud is installed

). I went with a '68 3/4 ton booster to reap the benefits of dual diaphragm and still be able to use the '71-'72 1/2 ton disc/drum master cylinder. Most guys when upgrading will use the '71-'72 3/4 ton booster, which will only accept the C20 master cylinder. I also prefer the look of the earlier unit's shorter, straighter bracket. I don't like the 'lean' the later trucks' master cylinders have.

Almost forgot, since I snapped the end off of one of my tranny cooler lines while removing the radiator, and the other had a compression fitting already patching it, plus the fact that they were a mangled, PO hand bent mess, I decided to bend up a new set. Used a couple of 6' lengths of 5/16" pre-flared steel line from Advance- like $3 each. What a pain, but MUCH cleaner, better looking, and safer than before. Also, in the process of installing the new brake booster assembly, I dropped the steering column and figured while it was out, I might as well 'shorten' it 3" (Thanks for the write-up, Putter) to give me some elbow room (I'm 6'6")...

All in all, the progress feels good, but I think I should have accomplished more given the time spent. Seemed like everything was fighting me the whole way, one problem after another, but that's how it goes sometimes- hopefully the next round will go a little more smoothly and be more pic-worthy

**lolife99** · 03-30-2011, 12:41 AM

Great work as usual.
I bet those tranny lines were fun,...

propanemudtruck · 03-30-2011, 12:00 PM

Those are great pics of the bed, I never realized how simple they are. Should've known I guess. Oh and good job on the shroud too!

ChuckDriver · 03-30-2011, 10:04 PM

Nice work, love the bed wood!!

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Great work as usual.
I bet those tranny lines were fun,...

Yeah, 'fun' is definitely the word

Quote:

Originally Posted by propanemudtruck

Those are great pics of the bed, I never realized how simple they are. Should've known I guess. Oh and good job on the shroud too!

Thanks! Waaaaay too much time in that silly thing...

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Nice work, love the bed wood!!

Thanks, hope to be installing it soon

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 11:21 PM

Little bit more progress today... Started by bleeding the brakes to complete yesterday's booster/MC replacement. Wrapped up the last of that messy-ness and moved on to the interior, a MUCH cleaner place to work

Below is what I started with and basically set about gutting the interior from there

Upon pulling the carpet, I was pleasantly surprised to find only surface rust and NO rot whatsoever. Plenty of holes from POs drilling for various things, though

VA72C10 · 03-30-2011, 11:33 PM

Looking good man! Nice floor on that truck!!!

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5150.4.67

Gringo,
Where did you mount the prop valve? I'm guessing on the cross member 73 and later style?

Yes, it is mounted exactly as a '73-'87 truck would be. I was VERY tempted to bend new lines for it, but restrained myself due to time concerns, so I just painted them black; it will leave me something to do after the truck is 'done'

I need this thing road-worthy by mid-June...

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Looking good man! Nice floor on that truck!!!

Thanks! I was happy to find so little cancer lurking under the carpet, as I knew it had been wet before and wasn't sure what to expect.

**SOON2BLAZE** · 03-31-2011, 09:44 AM

It's looking good man

03-12-2011, 12:00 PM	#1
Mike J vw guy & now c-10 guy Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Louisville,KY Posts: 483	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Eastwood welder looks kinda like a Lincoln. Eastwood is where I bought my Lincoln, but it's been at least 10 years ago. Maybe they just rebadge them? __________________ '68 long fleet Finally made some progress on the build!!! My Build Thread

03-12-2011, 12:47 PM	#2
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,608	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Glad to see your life back in order and back to the trucks... Congrats.. __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

03-12-2011, 09:47 PM	#5
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Great idea on the truck ralley wheel FAQ thread! __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

03-12-2011, 03:37 PM	#7
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 I like this one. Is this the purple you're referring to? It looks blue on my MacBook. __________________ '72 2wd blazer, bagged w/ watts link & EDC '72 C10 "Lowered Farm Truck" STOLEN 5-18-11 '66 impala ht Last edited by hotrodhomi; 03-12-2011 at 03:39 PM.

03-17-2011, 11:56 PM	#8
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 looks good. What did you do to address the rear where the tailgate steps up to the raised bed? __________________ '72 2wd blazer, bagged w/ watts link & EDC '72 C10 "Lowered Farm Truck" STOLEN 5-18-11 '66 impala ht

03-18-2011, 01:29 AM	#10
CheyenneShop Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Arizona Posts: 638	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Wood floor looks GREAT! Are you going to stain it? __________________ 72 Cheyenne shorty "*CheyLow" 72 3/4 long 4X4 69 SWB "Prospector" 68 C/10 shorty - "Picacho"* http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=428379 *sold to "93redsled"* Have you heard about *C10 Talk? C10 Talk* is a podcast all about C10 Trucks, the builders, the vendors, and most importantly the C10 Community. Check us out online at www.c10talk.com Last edited by CheyenneShop; 03-18-2011 at 01:29 AM.

03-18-2011, 06:11 AM	#11
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,269	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 very nice! Love the look of a wood bed!!! __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

03-18-2011, 09:29 AM	#12
67cheby 67cheby Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: siloam springs ar 72761 Posts: 17,890	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 nice work __________________ Check out Slosh Tubz, bolt-in inner fenders for frame laying C-10's Slosh Tubz Introductory Price $559 67 Cheby's Dropmember Build Thread Slosh Tubz on Facebook http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554172

03-18-2011, 10:08 AM	#13
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Any plans to space the wood up off the metal floor? I wondered about water/moisture being trapped between the two. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

03-30-2011, 12:25 AM	#17
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Been playing with the truck a little bit more the last couple of days. I spent way more time than I care to share getting the fan shroud aligned- VERY little clearance around the clutch fan on my serp setup- but now it's done and installed for the last time Also finished up the underhood wiring, spent a ton of time chasing down a new lower radiator hose (do you guys' LAPSs suck as bad as mine do? <--rhetorical question), and finished up the last few things on the front suspension which included welding up a wallowed-out upper shock mount hole and finished installing my 1.25" sway bar and poly bushings (more leftovers from the Blazer), which makes the front suspension officially DONE except getting it aligned Unfortunately, none of this is really picture worthy... Buuuut, you can't have an update without pics, so I'll stick a few up of my 'new' brake booster and bracket assembly with the new master cylinder installed, which also shows the rad and shroud installed (I know, nothing to look at, but I am happy that stinking shroud is installed ). I went with a '68 3/4 ton booster to reap the benefits of dual diaphragm and still be able to use the '71-'72 1/2 ton disc/drum master cylinder. Most guys when upgrading will use the '71-'72 3/4 ton booster, which will only accept the C20 master cylinder. I also prefer the look of the earlier unit's shorter, straighter bracket. I don't like the 'lean' the later trucks' master cylinders have. Almost forgot, since I snapped the end off of one of my tranny cooler lines while removing the radiator, and the other had a compression fitting already patching it, plus the fact that they were a mangled, PO hand bent mess, I decided to bend up a new set. Used a couple of 6' lengths of 5/16" pre-flared steel line from Advance- like $3 each. What a pain, but MUCH cleaner, better looking, and safer than before. Also, in the process of installing the new brake booster assembly, I dropped the steering column and figured while it was out, I might as well 'shorten' it 3" (Thanks for the write-up, Putter) to give me some elbow room (I'm 6'6")... All in all, the progress feels good, but I think I should have accomplished more given the time spent. Seemed like everything was fighting me the whole way, one problem after another, but that's how it goes sometimes- hopefully the next round will go a little more smoothly and be more pic-worthy Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

03-30-2011, 12:41 AM	#18
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Great work as usual. I bet those tranny lines were fun,... __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

03-30-2011, 12:00 PM	#19
propanemudtruck Local Redneck Authority Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Grand Rapids, MI Posts: 584	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Those are great pics of the bed, I never realized how simple they are. Should've known I guess. Oh and good job on the shroud too! __________________ -Kevin four on the floor feel the beat in your soul movin to the rhythym pumpin til ya cant take no more dance if you want to do what you came to you cant ignore the feeling of that four on the floor

03-30-2011, 10:04 PM	#20
ChuckDriver A320 Pilot/USAF Retired Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 2,629	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Nice work, love the bed wood!! __________________ JJ My 1957 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=334552 http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22037 Instagram - Chuckdriver57

03-30-2011, 11:21 PM	#22
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,921	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Little bit more progress today... Started by bleeding the brakes to complete yesterday's booster/MC replacement. Wrapped up the last of that messy-ness and moved on to the interior, a MUCH cleaner place to work Below is what I started with and basically set about gutting the interior from there Upon pulling the carpet, I was pleasantly surprised to find only surface rust and NO rot whatsoever. Plenty of holes from POs drilling for various things, though Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

03-30-2011, 11:33 PM	#23
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,269	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Looking good man! Nice floor on that truck!!! __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.



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03-31-2011, 09:44 AM	#25
SOON2BLAZE Account Suspended Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southern UT Posts: 906	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 It's looking good man

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