"52 3600/3100"

[Mains52]

Got out and got the rocker removed last night and started to try and hammer and dolly the floor flat again. I am pretty sure this thing was bit by a semi. Holy cow it has more wrinkles than a scrotum.

[Mains52]

Well I managed to get my seat base out yesterday so I can figure out what I am going to do with the floor and I think I just need to make a new pan. My plan was to hammer and dolly it into submission but I have the sheet metal. Might as well make a new one and call it good. What do you guys think? Have any of you ever fixed a floor that had been T-Boned?

[Erics51chevy]

I would cut it out. Brace the floor so nothing moves. And then go to town. The back of the cab might be a little tough because the whole radius has a lip

[Mains52]

So I cut some out and made my first patch ever. I also managed to mock up the rocker also. I am by no means a body/ metal work expert but I was pretty happy about how it turned out. I still have to finish tacking it in but its a start.

[Erics51chevy]

Looks good to me. Nice job.

[oldman3]

Yes, nice repair...Jim

[dsraven]

before getting too far into it you may want to install a door in the opening, as best as possible, and then brace the cab. you wouldn't wanna do a bunch of work and then find out the door doesn't fit or the windshield won't fit etc. also, do the work with the cab bolted down to something, like the frame, so it stays how it should be when bolted to the frame for real. welding tends to slowly bend stings due to heat/shrink.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by dsraven

before getting too far into it you may want to install a door in the opening, as best as possible, and then brace the cab. you wouldn't wanna do a bunch of work and then find out the door doesn't fit or the windshield won't fit etc. also, do the work with the cab bolted down to something, like the frame, so it stays how it should be when bolted to the frame for real. welding tends to slowly bend stings due to heat/shrink.

Putting the door in is the plan for sure. I didn't even think of the windshield I currently have it bolted to the frame in the front. My dad is going to come double check my work for me before I get to far ahead of myself.

[Mains52]

Thank you ERIC and OLDMAN. I am having a blast learning all of this stuff on my own. Makes me feel proud when I do something and it works haha.

[dsraven]

a couple of tips you can try,
when welding 2 panels together that overlap each other, spray some weld through primer on the parts that will contact each other, then do the weld. that way there is no uncoated steel there to rust. it is near impossible to get a coating on these surfaces otherwise.
if mig welding always cut the wire tip to length prior to starting each weld so the wire is sharp on the end and will strike an arc right away, less spatter and better weld
always clean both sides of the weld area down to good clean metal so your weld will be good as well
for overlapping parts, drill a series of about a 1/4' diameter holes through one of the parts to be welded,spaced apart like the spots welds you had to remove, then put the parts together and vice grip or sheet metal screw the pieces together so they are how you want them (teck screws work well because they have their own drill bit on the end). then weld through the hole you drilled into the part that is behind so the two parts weld together well and you can see the puddle connecting the 2 parts. if you predrilled the right piece then that part will either be unseen where the weld is or else the weld area will be easily seen and cleaned up after welding to be smooth. a small hole can look like the parts connect as you welded but then the weld caps the hole so quickly you are really guessing as to whether the parts are actually welded or if the hole is just filled. practice on some scrap if not too sure.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by dsraven

a couple of tips you can try,
when welding 2 panels together that overlap each other, spray some weld through primer on the parts that will contact each other, then do the weld. that way there is no uncoated steel there to rust. it is near impossible to get a coating on these surfaces otherwise.
if mig welding always cut the wire tip to length prior to starting each weld so the wire is sharp on the end and will strike an arc right away, less spatter and better weld
always clean both sides of the weld area down to good clean metal so your weld will be good as well
for overlapping parts, drill a series of about a 1/4' diameter holes through one of the parts to be welded,spaced apart like the spots welds you had to remove, then put the parts together and vice grip or sheet metal screw the pieces together so they are how you want them (teck screws work well because they have their own drill bit on the end). then weld through the hole you drilled into the part that is behind so the two parts weld together well and you can see the puddle connecting the 2 parts. if you predrilled the right piece then that part will either be unseen where the weld is or else the weld area will be easily seen and cleaned up after welding to be smooth. a small hole can look like the parts connect as you welded but then the weld caps the hole so quickly you are really guessing as to whether the parts are actually welded or if the hole is just filled. practice on some scrap if not too sure.

Thank you for the tips. I just ordered a can of weld-thru primer.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Mains52

So I cut some out and made my first patch ever. I also managed to mock up the rocker also. I am by no means a body/ metal work expert but I was pretty happy about how it turned out. I still have to finish tacking it in but its a start.

Very nice metal work!

[Mains52]

Got the lower jam tacked in and mocked up some more stuff yesterday. I figured out that I need to lift the cab up and get the jam raised up into the right position but Ill wait for help to complete that. I also was having a little trouble fitting my new kick panel piece in with the lower jam piece in there. Have any of you guys struggled with new reproduction parts and fitment? I feel like almost everyone on here has had some sort of issue with the new pieces.

[Mains52]

Went to the GOODGUYS show in Des Moines this weekend and scored a full set of control arms for $180 and a rack and pinion for $35. Just have to get some garage time. I am ready to put this thing together.

[Mains52]

I will have to modify the lowers for bags but it was too good of a deal to pass up.

[Mains52]

Update 1: I managed to get a few hours in the garage on Saturday and got almost everything welded in. I have a few more tacks and some trimming and seam sealing to do but I should have fenders on this dude in no time. I've noticed that the reproduction sheet metal is far from perfect and I've had to massage it quite a bit. Anyone else have this problem? Update 2: I have ordered the Paul Hortons Kit to fit S10/camaro rotors and calipers onto my MII spindles. So I went out and grabbed the rotors and calipers of my old s10 frame and have them soaking in white vinegar Ill put a before and after pic up later this week.

[Mains52]

Truck Update 2019. I broke my leg in September and the truck hit the back burner but I'm slowly getting back into it. I managed to get my door installed and need to work on fitment a little. Got the cab corner cut out and ended up making a new inner cab corner. I don't have any metal shaping tools so I work with what I can so it still needs some work but its a lot better than the junk I took out. Also was bored and did a quick sketch of an Apache for ****s and Gigs.

[dsraven]

sheet metal isn't looking so bad. when working with basic tools sometimes you just need to spend a little more time to arrive at the same destination. I have used all kinds of different things to get a contour, ball peen hammer as a shaping hammer and a piece of wood trimmed as required for a dolly or a piece of scrap steel with something close to the contour required as a dolly. sometimes a trip to the local welding shop can reap a piece of metal the right shape for a dolly. anyway, take it easy on the leg so it heals up well, then giv'er.

[Matt_50]

Just read your build. Fun read. I liked your comments about getting a weekend day a while back. My wife was nice enough to give me a whole day once, until she realized I took it seriously, I was outside before sun came up and still out there when it came down. She was not a happy camper....

I'll keep following your build.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Just read your build. Fun read. I liked your comments about getting a weekend day a while back. My wife was nice enough to give me a whole day once, until she realized I took it seriously, I was outside before sun came up and still out there when it came down. She was not a happy camper....

I'll keep following your build.

Thanks Matt I’ve looked through your build and check it every time it pops up. This weekend my dad is going to come help me get my cab corner in and whatever else we can get done before the supercross comes on. Ha my goal is to have the M2 and 4link in and some roller tires on before the the end of March.

[joedoh]

sorry about your leg, good thinking on your feet though!

[8man]

Just found your build, nice metal work. I'm going through the poor fit of parts right now and have that left front pillar to do. Keep at it.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by 8man

Just found your build, nice metal work. I'm going through the poor fit of parts right now and have that left front pillar to do. Keep at it.

Thank you I appreciate it. Its been head scratching at times but this is my first ever build so Im having fun with it. This forum has been a huge help.

[Matt_50]

Yea this forum has been very friendly towards me and all my new guy first build questions.

[8man]

Amen to that. Nice guys and lots of help.