Starting the overall replacement of front suspension today :-) drop time.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

The rubber line for rear T will be replaced on my truck also, they have it for $18, good quality and fair price. Has 7/16-24 IF female inlet for 1/4" hard line and 2, 3/8-24 IF female outlets for 3/16" hardline that runs along axle for rear breaks.

Amazon search:
Universal Rear Braided SS Brake Hose, 14" Long with mouting block

Seller: thestopshop

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Took me a while searching to find out exactly what I needed so hope that helps.

[beaterku]

Thanks!

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Well the second set of arms came out just as good, waiting on my passengers side rotor and will be putting it back together. I ordered a set of Energy Suspension 9.13126G Ball Joint Dust Boots off Amazon and they did not fit perfect but one can replace my bad upper boot for now. If anyone knows a good replacement boot give me the heads up.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I contacted parent company of moog about the boot being torn on my upper ball joint and joint being ok and they said they will mail me some replacements. Good customer service, they got back to me through email 20 min after submitting issue on their online forum and responded well.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I also went and picked up a stock 1974-1 1/16" sway bar for $35 today locally. Going to buy a lowered bar mount for frame and energy suspension bushing kit because it comes with brackets I only have 2 factory u brackets for bushings. Any better alternatives for install and places to get them. 4 bushing set for 1 1/16", Energy Suspension 3.5175G, is $36 on Amazon with a zerk on 2 of them or I can get a set from ECE which are graphite impregnated poly a bit cheaper. Comes with all hardware to make it simply and save a trip to pickup some bolts.

[saxart]

Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes

I contacted parent company of moog about the boot being torn on my upper ball joint and joint being ok and they said they will mail me some replacements. Good customer service, they got back to me through email 20 min after submitting issue on their online forum and responded well.

Were these brand new ball joints that had ripped boots, or were they on this truck and driven with ripped boots? If it was a driver with ripped boots, then you really should just replace the ball joint while you have it out. Even if the BJs are good, they will have debris in them and will wear out quickly anyway.
They don't cost that much via Rockauto, and they're easy to press out and back in.

BTW... Nice job pick up on the front sway bar. I got the same 1-1/4" bar via local pick-a-part and got the low profile mounts and energy suspension bushings via Amazon.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

It is the upper, driver side moog ball joing. I would normally replace just as you say, however it was starting to tear where it attaches/glued the the damaged mounting plate, not necessarily in the middle of boot. The ball joint is not loose at all and had no signs of dirt in it. That being said, I will still shoot grease in it till old lube is out and install new boot. Moog has zerks so this is very easy to do. It is very easy to replace whole joint but I rather not if joint is not loose and smooth. With new boots being sent at no cost, not even shipping, I will spend the money on bushings for sway bar.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Sway bar I picked up today is 1 1/16" and ECE has the lowered frame hanger and bushing set for $49 getting it on order tomorrow. Bar looked badly rusted but hit it with a wire wheel for few min and dropped it in a bath and came out nice. Pic below of part numbers if anyone needs.

Will they be much of a difference in a 1 1/4" sway bar. Was wanting that but could only find a 1 1/16"

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Originally Posted by saxart

Were these brand new ball joints that had ripped boots, or were they on this truck and driven with ripped boots? If it was a driver with ripped boots, then you really should just replace the ball joint while you have it out. Even if the BJs are good, they will have debris in them and will wear out quickly anyway.
They don't cost that much via Rockauto, and they're easy to press out and back in.

BTW... Nice job pick up on the front sway bar. I got the same 1-1/4" bar via local pick-a-part and got the low profile mounts and energy suspension bushings via Amazon.

Have link to low profile mounts? Found the bushings but not the frame mounts.

[saxart]

Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes

It is the upper, driver side moog ball joing. I would normally replace just as you say, however it was starting to tear where it attaches/glued the the damaged mounting plate, not necessarily in the middle of boot. The ball joint is not loose at all and had no signs of dirt in it. That being said, I will still shoot grease in it till old lube is out and install new boot. Moog has zerks so this is very easy to do. It is very easy to replace whole joint but I rather not if joint is not loose and smooth. With new boots being sent at no cost, not even shipping, I will spend the money on bushings for sway bar.

I premium Moog upper ball joint for your truck is only $30 on rockauto. If it were me, I'd replace the joint while it's apart, but I see what you're saying about no signs of debris in it.

Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes

Have link to low profile mounts? Found the bushings but not the frame mounts.

Here's a set:

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/63-72-...tinfo/FSBB372/

Just for giggles, here are the bushings I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Went the ECE route, $61 shipped for mounts, bushings, new hardware, $35 for bar. Guess I did ok for sway bar, will update after install, it looks good after a few enamel coats. I'm still waiting for a rotor to finish up front. I recieved a bad rotor from autopartswarehouse and waiting for the replacement to arrive. Going to go ahead and replace rear leaf springs while im waiting.

[Cbo]

This thread has been extremely helpful in my project I have going on in my front end.

Quick question about your "potion" you've been using to convert rust. How and where are you doing really large parts? Do you have a huge Tupperware container I'm your shop just filled with the stuff?

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I am glad it is a big help. I did the control arms by sprayed them with a spray bottle every few min while smoking a cigarette and reading. I removed heavy stuff off first for a few min with wire wheel or brush. Used container and dipped brackets, nuts, bolts, etc in. You can dip larger parts, it is a preference and will work. Always do a test piece beforehand. And I do have a containers with a couple different mixes.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Well ECE came through and quick. Sway bar mounts, bushings and hardware came into today at noon waited for it to cool down some in the garage and just hit the passengers side for the install. The lower frame crossmember rivet will need to be removed to mount frame bracket, I had one side done in 15 min, and you should only do one side at a time to keep the crossmember from moving on you. Fairly easy, hit it with my cutting wheel making a star on the head of rivet, grinded it down some and hit it with a drill. Punched it out with a 10lb hammer and a trash bolt I had to use as a punch. Some pics below. I will install both frame mounts first, then bar with bushings when I get my boot for the passengers side control arm and button it all up. I am anxious to get front suspension put back together. I will include some more pics and info as I am getting it done.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I used frame mounts that are for lowered applications since my front end has a 4" drop on it. Here is some pics of the trash rotor APW sent me after a week, VS what Summit sent to my door in less than 48hrs. I did get the passengers rotor from autopartswarehouse for $42 using a discount, that being said it may be a a stretch, but I believe that's why they sent me a rejected trash rotor that normally sell for $90-120ea. Personally I wouldnt do business with APW again. They did give me my wilwood rear kit $110 off and the rotor about $60 off, and after spending close to 3k on truck parts...etc from various vendors with no issues the past 2 months I was trying to save a few bucks. The rotor that looks like it was rejected and pulled of the lathe early is the one I got from APW. I doubt they noticed before shipment, or there was a mix up from the manufacture. It may work fine I simply do not want to deal with a reject rotor while paying for a properly machined product, it looked like it was mounted and returned before from the rust I saw on the studs.

[beaterku]

Looks good. I order all of my Wilwood parts and suspension kit from AZ Pro last Friday. Excited to get to installing.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Originally Posted by beaterku

Looks good. I order all of my Wilwood parts and suspension kit from AZ Pro last Friday. Excited to get to installing.

I should hit them up next time. APW did get me the rear d154 black e brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors for about 680 shipped to my door, it is droped shipped no matter who you buy it from is what I was told, so I went with best price. I couldn't find a better price for the kit, and that was even cheaper than the smooth face rotor kit price. I'm getting ready to install rear drop leafs from ECE on and that rear kit. Replacing brake lines as well.working on front sway bar this very moment.

[beaterku]

Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes

I should hit them up next time. APW did get me the rear d154 black e brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors for about 680 shipped to my door. I couldnt find a better price for the kit, and that was even cheaper than the smooth face rotor kit price. I'm getting ready to install rear drop leafs from ECE on and that rear kit. Replacing brake lines as well.

They gave me a really competitive price for the D52 front, D154 rear, lines and e-brake cables. It comes with the Bear front rotors. Piecing it all together would have save me about $50. Great people to deal with.

I had a Summit 10% off coupon from Goodguys Lonestar but it was in store only and had to be a stock item. They didn't stock everything. Most of it was drop ship.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Originally Posted by beaterku

They gave me a really competitive price for the D52 front, D154 rear, lines and e-brake cables. It comes with the Bear front rotors. Piecing it all together would have save me about $50. Great people to deal with.

I had a Summit 10% off coupon from Goodguys Lonestar but it was in store only and had to be a stock item. They didn't stock everything. Most of it was drop ship.

Yea nearly all the wilwood stuff is drop ship, and your lucky if they let you use discounts on wilwood products. By some luck, APW system gave me the max $100 off an order using a coupon code and they also gave me a $10 off discount when I found out that it was droped shiped and not in stock like I was told over phone when checking on my order after 5 days, took about 7 days to the door, and they pitched me that $10 refund for the confusion, that is how I found out.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Summit has always been good to me, I got them to price match the drivers rotor for $76 dollars as opposed to their $120ea price. Their shipping is always supper fast like ECE.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Putting the beer down and starting on drivers side. I forgot to mention I prefit every component before installing, and noticed u brackets for bushings didn't want to properly fit over nuts I had hanging down from frame mount. So I compressed them till holes would line up better and provide me with a smooth install for bar with bushings and no fitment issues down the road. Will be doing the same for control arm install as well. Included pictures below for reference.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Got new boots in the mail from moog, hassle and cost free. Those guys have some great customer service. The boot seems to be an exact replacement. I am unsure if it is common for boots to wear out or deteriorate often but if you have moog ball joints and catch it before a complete failure of the boot give them a call on the tech line. Getting back on the project today and should have right side assembled minus the caliper and rotor replacement I am waiting on. Sway bar fit well with ECE bushings and hardware and I am waiting to have the frontend on the ground before torquing it all complete.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

While taking a brake today from the hard work I went and picked up few things in my area for a good deal. Restored instrument cluster and a dual fuel feed for my Holley carb priced at a steal, I couldnt pass them up. Will be getting rid of my old cluster if anyone needs pm me.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Well I am finished with the rear and front drop, my 2 year old son decided to reset my phone so I lost a lot of pictures and had to wait to restore my phone. Here is a few. I installed 4" drop leaf from ECE. Had to remove the tool box assembly to get to one eye bolt on passengers side. One recommendation for anyone doing the same leaf drop is to replace your u bolts, I ordered mine in advanced because I felt the old ones would be too rusted to use and I was correct. One u bolt had about half of the material eaten away over the years, a real safety issue. Front 4" drop with a 4" rear drop looks good. I will be lowering thr rear 1.5" more when I get a new bumper. I have a factory step and it will be too close to the ground for my taste if I go lower at the moment. Now I am on to replacing rear brake lines and removing the drums for a wilwood disk setup. Some pictures below. I ran a steel fuel line up to the water pump and then ss flex with a Russel log setup for dual fuel feed with a Russel liquid filled gauge cost me about $65, no leaks after starting the truck last night so I am happy,