Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread

[Ackattack]

I was able to get a few evenings of work in this week, and then got a few more hours in today. I think shaving the drip rail is done for now. There is still a small hump where all the seams come together that will have to be smoothed out with filler once I get into that phase of body work. Oh, I guess I'll also fill in around the door a little more to make the gaps smaller, but that won't be until after I get more progress done on the rust repair.







In this one there looks like there is a big dent in the corner of the cab. Well there kinda is. This area had a bunch of lead filler in there, and in the process of welding around there, it melted out....oh...I also had to make a "relief cut" in that area.



I also cleaned up the welds on the fire wall patches.



And then took out the back window.

[slammed1]

coming along real nice

I have heard most guys who have shaved their drip rails swore to never doing another one if they could help it.

[Ackattack]

I finally got the engine and transmission in. At least for now. I'm sure they will come out again at some point.



So for now I'm using a stock transmission crossmember, tubular engine stands with the 73+ motor mounts, and then some adapter plates that I made myself. It was a little tight to squeeze the engine down onto the stands, but it fits.

The tranny crossmember will even use some of the original holes for mounting it. This is a 4L60e out of a 98 Trans Am.



The driver's side header had to be clearanced a little to no hit the lower control arm. I may have to do a little more "clearancing".



These headers are for a camaro/trans am that I got off of ebay. They're stainless steel. And they were cheap too. I also headers from the same company on my corvette. My complaint with the camaro headers is the bolting flange needs some work, cause the holes aren't lined up quite right. Other than that, these are a really good choice cause the tuck up real well and fit good. I will have to cut the drivers side collector off a bit. On the camaros this side kicks towards the outside, which puts it too close to the frame rail. No biggie though. Here's what the ground clearance looks like.



Speaking of ground clearance, I think I"m going to get a F-body oil pan. I don't like the idea of the oil pan being the lowest part on the front of the truck.



After I got the headers on, I then moved to the front of the engine. If you remember in a post awhile ago, I thought I was going to have to notch the frame rail to clear the power steering pulley with the corvette accessory drive system. Well it fit with plenty of room to spare.



The A/C compressore fits down in the frame rail like it was made to go there.



I then moved on to the transmision shifter lever. The header is right in the way of where it need to be. I would like to use the column shifter, but the linkage just won't work. Does any companies make a cable type shifter for columns?



Then as I was trying to determine if the tranny was in park or first, I went and grabbed the driveshaft that came with the truck and shoved it into the tranny. Well what do you know, it fits....as in its the right length too!



couple of problems with it though. First I switched to larger 1350 u-joint on the pinion yoke. So I'll probably have a new one made anyways with the larger u-joints front and rear (400+ RWHP will be going through this on slicks....so I figure I better upgrade)

Next problem is something isn't centered. I didn't have time to take measurements, but the drive shaft was rubbing on the passenger side of the crossmember. I thought about this when I came inside to grab a drink, and realized its probably just the panhard bar not being centered correctly. So I raised the rear and it started to center the drive shaft, but then it was hitting on the bottom of the cross member. So I'll raise the tail shaft of the tranny. The whole engine/tranny looks like its at a little too much of an angle anyway.

I'm going to cut some exhaust passages in the tranny crossmember, or just make a new one, so this won't be a big deal (and the reason why I haven't cleaned up the crossmember too

.

[Ackattack]

Next problem is with my parking brake cable. I ordered one for a swb (P/N BC92443) but it doesn't seem to be long enough. I'm not sure how I should route it thought the ECE extreme drop member though.



So overall it was a productive day, but I have a few issues to deal with. No biggie though

[slammed1]

Damn bro,looks like you have quite a few small obstacles to tackle. Hope you get it all figured out. grab that tape measure and start checking things out for sure.

I was looking at someones LS2 install pictures and it looked like their engine was positioned to the drivers side a tad bit,dont know if it was an optical illusion or not but worth checking into.

Good Luck.

[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I then moved on to the transmision shifter lever. The header is right in the way of where it need to be. I would like to use the column shifter, but the linkage just won't work. Does any companies make a cable type shifter for columns?

Lokar makes one. http://www.lokar.com/product-descrip...shift-link.htm

[SCOTI]

What about spacing the motor up 1"? I can't tell how much of an issue that would cause on the a/c comp clearance, but it looks like it would get the headers off of the lower a-arms & might help w/the trans tailshaft vs. the crossmember.

[gringoloco]

I think spacing the tranny mount up 1" would cure most of your ailments...

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I think spacing the tranny mount up 1" would cure most of your ailments...

I agree. If you use a tranny mount out of a 03 and up, if will raise the tranny up about 1/2 inch.

R

[Ackattack]

No progress (still studying .....4 1/2 weeks until the PE)

But I did sell my 72 GMC today, so I have about $6k to fund this project. We'll see how far that gets me.

The GMC will be missed. I had it for 11 years (got it as a Junior in HS). Learned lots with it, and tons of memories.

[Ackattack]

Today I scored some parts for Bruiser. I got a gas tank from a 2000 Trans Am with the fuel pump. I saw another guy on here have one mounted up, so hopefully it will work well and solves a couple of issues.....blazer tank is awfully close to the ground and I need a baffled fuel tank...and a fuel pump. Best part is it was only $50.

Then I went and got a F-body oil pan since the truck oil pan is too close to the ground for my likings.

While I was at the guy's house with the oil pan, I asked about the LS1 block he had sitting there. Basically he bent a connecting rod, so he swapped in an LS6 into his T/A. So I got the LS1 block for $165. It'll take a little work to get it up and running, but I just added .4L and lost about 100 pounds!

For the time being, I'm going to keep the 5.3L in the truck until I get it up and running so that I can easily trouble shoot any wiring issues. In the mean time I'm going to work on repairing and building up the LS1. I already contacted another guy about a set of stock pistons and con rods. I'll put in new rod bolts, a different cam and we'll see what else. I don't know if I'll get a set of aftermarket ported heads or just go with a set of stockers for now and the same with an intake manifold. I'll throw on a new set of rings and make sure the rest of the block looks good. The crank may also need a little work too.

[Palf70Step]

Congrats on the score.

[Frizzle Fry]

Nice score on the LS1. If you're gonna have to procure and/or machine the rotating assembly you might as well stroke it!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

...I got a gas tank from a 2000 Trans Am with the fuel pump. I saw another guy on here have one mounted up, so hopefully it will work well and solves a couple of issues...

Sounds interesting... Got a link to this?

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

...you might as well stroke it!

Words to live by!

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Sounds interesting... Got a link to this?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=112

Looking at the gas tank, it looks like my harness will plug right into it after I extend some wires. This will take care of the purge issue.

The slight down side is it looks like I'm going to hae to cut out a portion of the frame to get the tank to fit up in there. The tank is a little wider than the inside frame rail.....I'll get some pictures when I install, but it looks to be pretty easy.

[Project1970]

I want to see what you do to those headers, if the collector can be redirected easily I know I'll be picking a set up

[prostreet1967]

where did u get those inner rocker panels

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by Project1970

I want to see what you do to those headers, if the collector can be redirected easily I know I'll be picking a set up

On the drivers side, I'm planning on cutting the collector back a few inches and then welding on a ball flange collector.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by prostreet1967

where did u get those inner rocker panels

I got them from Classic Heartbeat....a board vendor that's located in Olympia...so I didn't have to pay shipping since I picked them up!

[Ackattack]

I took a break from studying today (the big test is on Friday...then I'm FREE!!!!) I installed the gas tank. I messaged the guy who's link I posted above, but got no reply, so I did this on my own in about 3 hrs or so. I guess I still have a little more things to do, but it's done for now.

I made some mounting straps from 2" wide aluminum I got from HD.



Like I said, I had to cut the bottom of the frame to make it wider for the tank to fit up in there. I also ended up moving the rear most cross member back about 3 inches or so.



Here it is finished (for now)



The ground clearnance with this tank is pretty good. I believe its a lot better than the blazer tank.

Lowered all the way:


"ride height":


I still have to cut a hold for the filler tube. I'll probably have the filler inside the bed...maybe in the rear stake pocket or behind the wheel well. Oh, it will be on the right side.






Oh, I also ordered new SS brake lines and all the parts for my fuel lines. So I'll be doing some plumbing next weekend!

[Ackattack]

Test is over!!!! So I got some work done today. I partially installed the fuel line. I'm running 3/8" SS fuel line up to the engine. I convert to a -6 braided stainless steel line running from the frame up to the fuel rail. I also made a braided return line from the filter/regulator. I haven't gotten the 3/8" quick connects to make the rest of the fittings.

I also played around with some of the wiring. I removed one of the rear O2 sensors, and then layed the harness onto the engine and made most of the connections. I 'm going to have to tear it all apart to make it fit the way I want and be somewhat hidden.

[67ChevyRedneck]

What kind of engineer are you? I'm a Civil. I'm eligible to take it in September, but I think I'll wait for next April's test. How bad was it?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

What kind of engineer are you? I'm a Civil. I'm eligible to take it in September, but I think I'll wait for next April's test. How bad was it?

I'm a mechanical engineer. I've been eligible to take it for 2 years, but my wife who is a civil engineer just became eligible, so I waited to take it at the same time. It's tough for sure. We did a lot of studying, so hopefully we passed.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I'm a mechanical engineer. I've been eligible to take it for 2 years, but my wife who is a civil engineer just became eligible, so I waited to take it at the same time. It's tough for sure. We did a lot of studying, so hopefully we passed.

I passed the FE with no studying at all, BUT I was still in Clemson and had just taken a few 400 level courses that helped a TON on the test. I fear the PE
Best of luck on the results, now get this truck done

[red71cheyenne]

Wow, this is a cool project Ack. Like to see it in person sometime. Maybe if you have some time in May, I'll be home on leave for the daughter's wedding. Should see you at Monroe as well. Keep the pics coming!