Mcgaughys Big Brake Kit

[c10seconds]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Ken, I would think that if you pulled the axle shafts and pressed (hammered) out the studs before taking them to the machine shop, it would be less expensive to machine the axles. I have done it before at work and it only takes one set up on a lathe to do both the OD and the center register on the axle. If a new set of axles is $400, and the shop rate is $75 or less, it should take a competent machinist less than 3 hours to do both axles ($225).

Now, that being said, if the old axles show signs of wear on the bearing surface or you are planning more power or better tires for traction, than a new stronger alloy axle might be a better choice...

So buying a new set of axles will eliminate having to get the machining done??? I have a rear end that I pulled from a parts truck that happens to have brand new axles in it. Is the center hub usually smaller in diameter than the stock axles?? Heres what i plan on using. Dont know much about these axles but Im sure they are better than stock.

[N2TRUX]

I don't know if aftermarket axles will, or won't fit. What I meant by my comments were if you had a set made, you could specify what size the flange would be.

[nlped]

I got the rearend pulled out from under the vehicle, removed the backing plates, and pulled the axles this weekend. I will be taking the axles to the machine shop this morning and should have them back by this afternoon/early evening. I will take some shots of before & after and get the before & after measurements as well. I'll also find out how long it actually should take to do for a qualified machinist

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by c10seconds

So buying a new set of axles will eliminate having to get the machining done??? I have a rear end that I pulled from a parts truck that happens to have brand new axles in it. Is the center hub usually smaller in diameter than the stock axles?? Heres what i plan on using. Dont know much about these axles but Im sure they are better than stock.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I don't know if aftermarket axles will, or won't fit. What I meant by my comments were if you had a set made, you could specify what size the flange would be.

Ken is correct, IF you ORDER new axles, then you could specify the flange OD and the hub OD so that they fit the rotors.

I would like to know how long it takes to get these done, it has been to long for me to remember how long it took to do mine...

[c10seconds]

I got my axles to the machine shop today and it appears that the hub OD and the flange OD will both need to come down a bit on the new axles. Shop said it take about an hour of labor to do that and re-drill the bolt pattern to 5x4 3/4 for about $80. Seems pretty reasonable

[c10seconds]

Bump

[c10seconds]

So I got the axles back and everything mocked up. The drivers side seems to be good on clearance but the passenger side however isnt sitting right. Once the rotor is tightened down it wont spin freely. The caliper seems to be pushing the rotor forward as the rotor is tightened down. I dont know if I did anything wrong. Let me know if you guys notice anything

[nlped]

^^^Is part of the actual caliper touching the rotor, or is it just that the caliper slides aren't lubed very well and aren't allowing the pad/caliper to float freely?

[nlped]

I'm a little behind C-10, but I got my axles back also.

I snapped a pic of a stock axle next to one of the new machined axles and took a couple of measurements.

O.E. axle hub...3.060 After machining...2.775
O.E. axle outer flange...6.56 After machining...6.122

[c10seconds]

The actual caliper and rotor do not touch. Its the inner pad being pressed up against the rotor. There is absolutely no slide travel. Dont know what to do It seems that if I were to put some washers between the outer flange and the rotor it would "work" but that just sounds ghetto to me

[lolife99]

Do you have your brackets on the wrong sides of the truck?
Can you swtch them left and right and make them work?

[c10seconds]

The calipers are marked "R" and "L". I tried switchin those around but I still have the same problem. I didnt notice a difference on the brackets. Ill check them out.

[87chevy.com]

dam, Mc gaughys has fitment issues the kit is engeneered for out trucks, but you need to modify just about everything to make it work.. lol... i need to finish up the e-brake for the dodge conversion and for the die hard gm, see what its going to take to get the c5 rear rotor on the c-10 rear.... now that nlped gave the axle flange od, I dont have to remove the wheel to measure mine (thanks). Who knows, maybe the rear rotors on the c5 will fit without having to machine the od of the flange.
I might break down and buy a spare rear end from the bone yard this or next weekend. Ive got all the measurements to mount the c5 ebrake stuff to the axle, but no spare rear + no c5 parts = no progress... imagine that.
clint

[c10seconds]

Well it sure does look better than the old axle with drums

[nlped]

^^^Ummm, yes it does

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

.....
I might break down and buy a spare rear end from the bone yard this or next weekend. Ive got all the measurements to mount the c5 ebrake stuff to the axle, but no spare rear + no c5 parts = no progress... imagine that.
clint

Let me know if you find a 12 bolt at a decent price. I would like to bench build one for my 77 with the brakes done before I stab it.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Let me know if you find a 12 bolt at a decent price. I would like to bench build one for my 77 with the brakes done before I stab it.

I have one we just took out this weekend and its still on the lift. I can give you a good deal on it. Nothing wrong with it it came out of a running truck that the guy redid the rear end with different ratio and was doing the same thing you want

[87chevy.com]

I got buisy this weekend so I will be goingto the pick and pull this comming Saturday. .. Are the 10 &12 bolts the same dimensions.... Like would a 10 bolt brake kit fit a 12 ? If so that would be great..
Thanks

[nlped]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

Are the 10 &12 bolts the same dimensions.... Like would a 10 bolt brake kit fit a 12 ? If so that would be great..
Thanks

Sure are! I have a couple of each, and this kit would work on either.

[87chevy.com]

awesome, maybe i will get lucky and find a 12 bolt at the bone yard for mock up purposes and once im done with mock-up, see n2trux hasnt found a 12 bolt yet.
clint

[c10seconds]

The new rear set up is in! Do the calipers look like they should sit higher?

[aggie91]

I have never seen the rear kit installed, but I thought the caliper would be more at 10 o'clock instead of 8 o'clock.

Is the bleeder screw at the top most part of the piston bore so that it bleeds out all of the air and nothing gets trapped in the caliper?

I guess you got your other issues from above corrected? What was the problem?

[dnd1978]

C10 second

what Brake valve are you going to use

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by c10seconds

The calipers are marked "R" and "L". I tried switchin those around but I still have the same problem. I didnt notice a difference on the brackets. Ill check them out.

I see that you have them mounted up and under the truck. What were the results from switching sides or flipping the brackets? Is it possible they are marked wrong? Would that move the calipers up higher if they were backwards?

[c10seconds]

Originally Posted by dnd1978

C10 second

what Brake valve are you going to use

CPP adjustable prop valve.