Ultimate work truck/ 70 K10 diesel

[jbclassix]

95+ GM and 98+ Dodge there are short throw kits...

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by woodwright

My dad has a 98 cummins dodge. Tranny seemed the same as my brothers 94. But I haven't driven either in quite a while. Can you shorten the shift throws on them? Thats the one thing I liked about the 6 speed. The shift pattern was smaller.

Some early 98 dodges still have the old style top plate. So that means the big shift pattern. The easiest way to tell is to see if the shifter tower is bolt on, or if it's similar to a SM465. Where you have a steel ring to push and twist and the whole shifter comes out. The small pattern, quicker shifting style uses 4 bolts to bolt the shifter to the top plate.

[woodwright]

Pulled the motor and tranny, and was able to get a better shot of the TC linkage.


Lately I've been working on the peddles and linkage for the brakes and clutch.


I'm useing a hydroboost system from an 82 3/4T and the master cylinder that came with my tranny.

The hydroboost mounting was easy. I didn't have my camera with me when I did it, I'll try to take some pics when I take it back apart for paint. I also moved the pedals back about 3/4". Right now I'm working on the gas pedal. I picked up a pedal assembly from a 72 C10. I'll take some pics of that tomorrow.

[plummen]

Beautifull work,as usual!

[MTCK]

Cool build! Looking forward to hearing it crank up!
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[Dieselwrencher]

Great work. I was trying to decide where I was going to mount my MC for my clutch the other night too. Did the hydra boost just bolt right on? I hope so because I've got to put that on mine too.

[woodwright]

As far as the mounting, heres a picture.

As far as the linkage, you gotta figure out how long of a stroke the hydroboost needs, and measure how far the peddle arm moves at different heights until you find the right amount of movement. On mine, it ended up a little bit below the factory hole. My hydroboost came with the push rod, but it was a little short so I welded a small piece on the back of the peddle. For my clutch though, I made a new rod long enough to mount to the clutch peddle.

With the clutch MC, I mounted it in the vertical rib on the firewall. I cut some 1" pieces of 1/2" OD tube and sleaved the bolt holes between the rib and the firewall. I'll try and get a better pic of that.

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the pic and info! I might run 92-97 ford mc on top of mine because the dodge ones are a poor design where they go into the cab. The ford mounts with 2 bolts similar to the chevy style. I'm glad the hydra boost isn't a big deal to install on there. One less big hurdle to over come.

[woodwright]

You might check into running a Chevy one. Might be easier.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by woodwright

You might check into running a Chevy one. Might be easier.

I don't think the chevy one will have enough pressure to operate my heavier load pressure plate.

[woodwright]

I thought you were talking about the hydroboost.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm definitely using a chevy hydraboost.

[woodwright]

I cut out and patched the original mount location for the throttle peddle. After that, all I had to do is drill 3 holes and the 72 peddle assembly bolted right on.


I still have to file the cable hole square, and modify my cable a little, but the peddles are done.

The original heater assembly won't work with the turbo, so I've been looking for an alternate. I ran out to the local pick a part today, and stomped around looking at different heater setups. What I ended up bringing home was the non AC heater assembly from a mid 80's chevy truck. The airbox on the firewall is really small, and lines up with the factory outside air intake. The heater core is inside the inner heater assembly, which fits pretty well under the dash.






The firewall hump is a little deeper on the older trucks, so I need to bend the heater assembly a little where it runs over in front of the hump.

I took a pie cut section out of it. The back wall of it is tin so it bends real easy. Tomorrow, I'm gonna go rent a plastic welder and put it back together. I still need to patch the unused holes in the firewall, and build an extension for where the outside air comes in.

The controls from the square body truck won't work as is, because of how the cables need to go. But I'll figure something out. The later model heater assemblies don't use cable pulls, they use small electric solenoids. I've already got the covers off the rear heater in my suburban, so tomorrow I'm gonna see how those work and if I can adapt them. I don't really like the cable controls. They tend to get sticky over time, and then the levers are snapping off.

While I was at the yard I found a late 90's tahoe with a very nice 2nd row leather seat just like this one.

It will end up costing me $20. I think I'm gonna grab it.

[VA72C10]

Nice progress! And can't go wrong for $20...that's a steal...

[madcow75]

I guess you can't go wrong with $20. I just spent $250 on the same set of sets for my 76CC.

[woodwright]

Nobody in town had a plastic welder, and I ended up not needing it. I just used my soldering iron and the pieces I cut off.

It was actually pretty easy and only took about 20 minutes. Once I got it braced together, I used the soldering iron to melt the two pieces together to "tack" it together in the corners and every 1 or so. After that I melted a furrow at the seam, and then melted the cut off material into the furrow. Then smoothed the seam with the iron as I went.

It worked surprisingly well.

[madcow75]

Wow that actually looks good. Sometimes I guess you need to make do with what you have.

[mknittle]

That looks good. I will have the same problem before long that looks like a good way to go!

[woodwright]

Originally Posted by mknittle

That looks good. I will have the same problem before long that looks like a good way to go!

The problem you're gonna run into, is the controls. the cables are too long, and the heater/defrost lever is right behind where the controls need to be. You can probably shorten the two longer cables, but you would need to work out a linkage setup for the defrost/heat lever. Personally, I don't like the cable slides. I am trying to adapt the dial controls from a late model. I'll post some pics.

[woodwright]

I decided against the suburban 2nd row seat. Its not gonna work very well with my high hump floor. The center leg would have to be severely modified, and it probably wouldn't be able to roll forward. So I'm gonna keep my eyes open for a split bench front seat.


I've spent the last week learning how the later model HVAC controls work. They use electric servos to open and close the inner door instead of the cables. Since I'm not gonna have AC, all I need is fan, zone control, and temp. Heres the head unit I'm gonna use.

I'm gonna build a new face plate, and new dials if I can find them. Something that looks a little more period correct.

Today I worked on getting the servos mounted. I took some 12-24 capture nuts and used the soldering iron to melt them into the backside of the case.


Added some 3/4" nylon spacers and bolts.



I've still gotta build the linkage, and figure out how to mount the head unit.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by woodwright

The problem you're gonna run into, is the controls. the cables are too long, and the heater/defrost lever is right behind where the controls need to be. You can probably shorten the two longer cables, but you would need to work out a linkage setup for the defrost/heat lever. Personally, I don't like the cable slides. I am trying to adapt the dial controls from a late model. I'll post some pics.

Thanks Clint, the more info the better.

[freakshow108]

I'm digging how you are making it all work how you want it. I can't wait to see this come together!
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[woodwright]

I think I'm gonna use these knobs.

I'm gonna cut a new face out of 1/8" aluminum with the waterjet. I'm thinking of making a plate that runs across the whole lower recessed area that includes the key and cig lighter. I'll probably throw in my glow plug button too. I just don't want it too blingy. maybe I'll powdercoat it black.

[Dieselwrencher]

Great trading and sweet work on the face plate! That is pretty dang cool!

[woodwright]

I got the knobs on and the faceplate finish sanded. brushed finish with 220 grit.

Its hard to see, but I used 4-40 brass bolts with countersunk heads to mount the face. I filed the heads down until they were smooth and then epoxied them into the face. I think when they tarnish and darken it'll look pretty cool. Kinda steampunkish. I'm gonna try to add a few more touches to the interior.

Heres the brains behind the operation.