I Found the Magic Button!

[BMERDOC]

Don't think too hard about it as long as your camber is negative and your camber is as positve as possible. Make both sides as equal as possible. If it keeps wandering rotate the tires until tire pull is minimized.

[jjzepplin]

Did you mean "Castor" is as positive as it can be?

[shortbed70]

Alrighty I’m going to see what I can do Tuesday.

[BMERDOC]

Yeah. Caster needs to be as positive as possible.

[2500HD]

I just completed a steering rebuild (rag joint, pitman, idler, ball joints, tie rods, upper and lower control arms, Red Head quick ratio box, pump, wheel bearings and tires) and had the truck aligned. i now have a lazy return to center and while driving straight it seems kind of twitchy. I have a lot of caster so i dont understand the lazy return to center. Is the toe supposed to be toe in or out?

[2500HD]

..

[BMERDOC]

Going down the sheet in order, I would like to see a bit more camber. -.25° would make me happier but if you can't get there you can't get there. I question the frame angle. If its really 2° thats fine but if its closer to 0 (mine was 0) then your caster angle numbers are going to be off by the sum off the difference. Since its front steer it needs toe out. I would rather see 1/8" total (1/16 per side).

[BMERDOC]

I think I need to expand on that a bit more. Your toe and camber angles are a bit on the neutral side which would cause those angles to flip back and forth between positve and negative. You've gotta push them a tick more to make them stay in the range they need to be in. Confirm that frame angle was actually measured and not guessed at to confirm caster.

[2500HD]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

I think I need to expand on that a bit more. Your toe and camber angles are a bit on the neutral side which would cause those angles to flip back and forth between positve and negative. You've gotta push them a tick more to make them stay in the range they need to be in. Confirm that frame angle was actually measured and not guessed at to confirm caster.

Not sure about the frame angle. it does have a pretty good rake to it if that is what is meant.

Just so i understand, if the caster is 5.9 and the frame angle is 2 then my actual caster us 3.9?

I need .5 more camber (top of tire in / \) and 1/32 more toe on each side (front of tire out \ /) and as much caster as possible?

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Going down the sheet in order, I would like to see a bit more camber. -.25° would make me happier but if you can't get there you can't get there. I question the frame angle. If its really 2° thats fine but if its closer to 0 (mine was 0) then your caster angle numbers are going to be off by the sum off the difference. Since its front steer it needs toe out. I would rather see 1/8" total (1/16 per side).

Isn't it toe in for RWD?

As for the lazy return, how is steering force when you turn the wheel away from center? Could just be the box sector lash adjustment is too tight.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Isn't it toe in for RWD?

As for the lazy return, how is steering force when you turn the wheel away from center? Could just be the box sector lash adjustment is too tight.

Its more about front vs. rear steer (in relation to the front cross member) but for the sake of packaging you can assume most FWD will be rear steer therefore requiring toe in. Its all about keeping the steering linkage taut.

[2500HD]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Isn't it toe in for RWD?

As for the lazy return, how is steering force when you turn the wheel away from center? Could just be the box sector lash adjustment is too tight.

Steering force away from center is not hard at all but it does have a new Red Head quick ratio box that makes it a little stiffer. Not stiff but not pinky steer as it was before. I cant change the box for as the paperwork clearly says it is adjusted perfectly and it will void my warranty.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 2500HD

Steering force away from center is not hard at all but it does have a new Red Head quick ratio box that makes it a little stiffer. Not stiff but not pinky steer as it was before. I cant change the box for as the paperwork clearly says it is adjusted perfectly and it will void my warranty.

IMO, if the lazy return to center doesn't go away within the warranty period, I'd be talking to the builder...before the warranty is up. A billion+ vehicles have not had this problem,when new. I think that something is wrong with it. The paperwork saying that it is "adjusted perfectly" is just that, paperwork. I hope that the steering starts returning to center normally.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by 2500HD

Steering force away from center is not hard at all but it does have a new Red Head quick ratio box that makes it a little stiffer. Not stiff but not pinky steer as it was before. I cant change the box for as the paperwork clearly says it is adjusted perfectly and it will void my warranty.

Did you ever get the return to center figured out? I'm having the same problem with the 68 with all new parts including a quick ratio Red Head steering box. I'm going to get my 2nd alignment at a different shop next week and want to be ready.
The first shop wouldn't/didn't give me numbers. The only thing I see is 1 1/8" shim on the pass side and a 1/16" shim on the driver side.

[BMERDOC]

I would verify frame angle or at least ask the guy that aligned it. Your math is correct...sorta. If your frame angle is 0 and they plugged in 2* the printout would say 5.9* when its actually 3.9*.
-.5 camber is good (tops of the ties pointing in). 1/16 toe per side (1/8" total) for toe.

[zicc1835]

funny I had my tires mounted and balanced yesterday at the shop i will have do my alignment at some point I discussed doing the alignment one of the mechanics there is ready to retire he and I went to the same school he is old school but is up to date with the newer technology this is going to be very helpful for me thanks so much for the info i gotta try to get it all together before he heads south

[2500HD]

Any update MySons

[MySons68C20]

The new alignment didn't change anything.....it still won't return and the alignment shop tech said its in the box. I need to pull the pitman arm and see if there is a bind in the ball joints or?
Sorry for the late reply and Happy New Year!

[Rooster73]

If it were mine I would bust the outer tierod off the spindles and feel the ball joints for any stiffness or catches, kinda like checking u joints. Not saying anyone messed up but a ball joint can be ruined while pressing it in, especially the lower. Happy new year