55.2-59 Ol' Blue

[dsraven]

maybe, since it is right above a nut insert, it was something to do with an arm rest? the arm rest possibly had a flange on it that fit into the slot and then a bolt was installed through the arm rest into that nut insert?
a bigger pic that shows the loacation better may help. hard to tell where exactly on the door that is located.

[dsraven]

assembly manual, sect 1 sheet 77 shows the door panel and arm rest but I dont see any slots in the door anywhere like that. possibly an owner installed option?

[8man]

Thanks Raven. Good thought.

[dsraven]

the slot appears to be a series of linked holes drilled in. they are not in a straight line, really, like a factory slot would be. kinda like a slot made by a previous owner for some reason.

[8man]

Yeah, welding it up is going to be a truck to get it straight.

[dsraven]

you could cut a uniform shape out of the hole and then make a uniform shaped patch. clean the back side well so you dont get rusty crap drawn into the weld.
or just clean it and keep welding the edges until the hole is gone, haha.

[8man]

Thanks Raven. I like those ideas, now which one will I use....

[Tempest67]

also, if you have a piece of copper or aluminum to place on the back side when you are welding, that can help keep the weld material in the hole.

[8man]

Thanks Tempest.

[Tempest67]

I have a 12 inch length of 1/2 inch copper pipe that I flattened in the vice and use it.

[6DoF]

agreed, that's a weird one. maybe they needed those window hanging drive-up diner trays installed with the window up?

i have some brass plates from the work scrap bin that i used on mine for welding up the smaller holes in the firewall, worked amazing. wife held em on with a block of wood inside while i welded outside. with the undercoating, i didn't even have to clean up the inside that was against the slug!

[8man]

I never thought about those drive-in trays! Good call.

I did as Tempest suggested, I took some copper pipe and made some paddles to hold behind it. Not welding on things yet, just getting ready.

[dsraven]

i have modified a small el cheapo deluxe C clamp so it doesn't have the lower jaw anymore but instead has a magnet scrwed on there. the other side

[dsraven]

sorry, fat fingers hit the send button mid sentence
the other side that has the screw down part has a copper pepe end cap plug fit over top of the jaw. when welding the holes in the firewall I usually use a step drill and drill them all the same size first so firstly they are actually round and secondly I don't have to custom build a plug for each hole. I made a hole punch that makes different sized slugs and keep the slugs in an old pill bottle. then I use the little C clamp thing on the back side to cover the hole, the copper part will help a little to absorb some heat and also the weld won't stick to it. then on the side I am on I just have to stick the slug in the hole and tack it in place, check the fit, then weld it in. it works well. on spots where the slug wants to fall out a little tape on the back side will hold it for a tack then remove the tape and slip the copper back there for the weld. if you plan to build one get a clamp with as much throat dimension as you can so the magnet is as far away from the weld as possible because magnets upset the weld puddle
for a hole punch I used a piece of thick steel, like a piece of 2 inch squre stock by 2 inches long. I bought some cheap pin punches and then used a drill the same size as the pin punch to go right through the block. I have several sizes drilled into the same block. then I cut a slice into the side of the block so a piece of sheet metal can be slid into the slice and will basically block the hole for the size I want. then use the pin punch in the hole to drive a slug out of the sheet metal.

[8man]

Way cool! I'd sure like to see the C-clamp in action. The plug maker I got figured out, now to try and make one.

[dsraven]

the step drills work waaaay better than a regular drill bit because they make an actual round hole in sheet metal, plastic and other thin stuff.

[8man]

I got the doors and cab stripped, except for the headlight switch. The knob doesn't have a set screw, so how do I get it off to unscrew the front of the switch?

Thanks.

[dsraven]

Push the spike of the switch in to turn off. Reach up onto the back of the switch and find the spring loaded button. Push the button. Pull the spike out like turning on the lights. Then there is a nut behind the switch knob that you can see now. Turn it and bingo bango. Switch is out.

[8man]

Thanks again Raven!

[dsraven]

in response to a pm about the inside window trim, here are a couple of pics I could dig up of the dash when out of the truck. if you zoom in you can see the little raised tabs right behind the windshield where the trim clips snap in, there are oblong holes in the raised sections and the clips simply push into the holes. the clips are metal and likely rusty so don't usually come out easily.
hope that helps

[dsraven]

yep, welcome. glad I could help.

[8man]

Well, we have been slow, but not sleeping. I have the bed sides, rear cross sill and front panel at the dipper to be stripped. I have the 3 piece rear bumper, the door side panels, a couple of bed cross sills, the covers for the tailgate retractors and the bracket that holds the spare tire carrier under the frame at a shop that soda blasts them and then will prime them.

I also spent the better part of 5 weeks trying to get the Master Coat to do the frame and other parts. It is hard to get right now. I used it on the Chief and really like the rust proofing it provides. I have a kit coming now and can start shooting frame and parts when it gets here.

The hood has a roll to the rear corner where the PO let it get off the truck onto the road, and I have it with a guy who soda blasted it so he can work on it. Wouldn't you know it, the bend was where the PO had repaired the rust out with Bondo! When it hit the pavement, it bent right there. Now that he knows what he has to work with, he is supposed to get on it and will need the cab and front end to test fit his work, so I have not taken everything off the cab in preparation to take it to be dipped, but I'm waiting on the body guy.

I've disassembled everything else I can, so I started working on details.

First, I decided to use the Vintage Air Mini since it takes up the least amount of space under the dash. IT has 4 controllers. So I had to figure out how I could get 4 controllers and a power point on that dasy.

IMG_1731 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I saved the ashtray, just in case I ever want to put it back original, and I made a panel for it. Then I had the heater panel on the right and it had a heater temp knob in it at one time. I bought a patch panel and started cutting and welding. The heater panel is held in place by the clip on top and the two bolts on bottom. My new ashtray panel is held in by a bolt on top and one on bottom with the round bumps for the controllers.

I also had one taillight clip. It is the one on the right, and I could not find a replacement. So, I made a duplicate. These hold the taillight lenses in the Cameo taillight.

IMG_1730 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I have been using the blast cabinet with a fine media to blast all the parts I can. I then treat them with a product that helps prevent rust until I can get them primed.

[dsraven]

nice work.
I use garnet in my blast cabinet because it doesn't powder up so badly
keep on posting, great work so far

[8man]

Thanks Raven.

[8man]

Ok, I got the engine, a 5.3L from a 2011 truck with 111,000 miles on it. I thought a lot about that, and while they are supposed to be good for more miles, I wanted to delete the DOD/AFM on it, so,
IMG_1739 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes, I started stripping it down.
IMG_1743 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes, that is a 2011 5.3 with cast iron block and flat top pistons. The heads are the 243's with the cantedral port.
I'm sending the block out to be cleaned, checked out by some pros and then honed. They will rebuild the heads, as well.

I'm deleting the DOD, so I will need different lifters and pushrods, as well as a number of other parts. I've searched some YouTubes and scouted around what some of the folks around here are using, and I think I'm going with the Brian Tooley Racing kit. I am even planning on using their "Truck Norris" cam.

I didn't mention it, but I've been looking at parts to make it look like an old school small block. I've already picked up the old Mallory distributor to run the wires from the "hidden" coil packs up through the distributor and out to the plugs. I saw this on a YouTube where he used some Lokar parts, but some of them got a little pricy, but I think it'll be fun if I can camaflouge it so that people ask, "is that a small block Chevy"?

Next update I hope to have the frame painted with the Mastercoat stuff, but "the best laid plans" as we all know...