1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes

[lovnthe70]

man this thing is bad !!!!!!! you have some patience and creativity. cant wait to see it on the road.

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks man!

[Dieselwrencher]

More work going on. I got all the mouse house floor mat out as well as the nasty glove box. Man it was bad! I removed the steering column and glove box door to get ready for my van tilt and cheyenne super glove box door.

[y5mgisi]

Man that just looks like fun!

[Dieselwrencher]

It has its days.

[Dieselwrencher]

Well, I finally drug the ol Longhorn out of the weeds and got some progess made on it. I was hoping to have it driveable under its own power to the All Truck Nats in KC last weekend, but it didn't happen though. But, I did still take it there, and we had a great time.

I drug the truck in the shop on Saturday the 3rd of September, and the truck show was the weekend of Friday the 10th-12th. So I didn't give myself a lot of time. Ok here we go.

Once I got my mind made up on working on the truck again, I started to gather parts up for the truck. The engine I originally had in this is going in my 76 since I want to sell it and keep the Longhorn. So I drug out an engine of my brother's that needed work. It is a 1990 5.9 that came from a Case Magnum tractor. It was VE rotary pumped, and the head was off of it. My dad rebuilt a head for me, and my brother tore the engine down to start the p-pump swap. His engine has very large air mixture bowls so that will help with allowing a big injector and some big timing without killing the head gasket. Then I started measuring to see how my ford D60 front was going to fit. Well, it flat out wouldn't without a lot of modifying the the chevy chassis. The ford D60 is 5" wider than the chevy D60. I know the 79 D60 will fit, but I sold the only one of those I had this spring. Seeing how I was on the hunt for a coupler for my NP205, I called up one of my buddies and purchased a D60, auto trans and a NP205 all from a 92 dodge cummins truck.

[Dieselwrencher]

I sat the engine short block in the frame and found all of my previous cross member pieces, and began to finish it. Once I got it finished, I welded up the holes in the frame from the 2wd cross member. I used some scrap steel and made some plugs to make it easier to fill in. I both welded the cross member in place and bolted it in just in case. I'm sure this truck will see some abuse in its life.




As you can see in the first pic, I ran into another problem when putting the dodge D60 in my chevy. I had a RH top cast mount from my chevy D60, but the inner bolt holes that go into the housing are different from the chevy and the dodge. So I started to build one because I knew the guy I got the dodge axle from more than likely didn't have the right one. I will have to finish that piece later. I also had issues finding my nuts for my u-bolts. Imagine that huh?

[Dieselwrencher]

Once I got the engine put back together and painted, I stuck it in and then hung the transmission on it. I decided to go with a 47rh which has overdrive and lock up. I want this truck to get great mileage and be easy for the wife to drive.

[Dieselwrencher]

Next thing was getting the rear suspension figured out. I went out and fought off the dang wasps and cut the front spring hangers from my blazer chassis. I ended up not using the rear leaf spring hangers from the K5 blazer because the longhorn ones were an inch taller. I ended up finally being able to use some brand new leaf springs I had laying around for years. They were about an inch shorter not installed but ended up being only 1/2" shorter once installed.

My next problem was trying to mount the front hanger lower support brackets to the longhorn frame. On the K5 the frame is flat at the front spring hanger and on my longhorn it is angled, so I will have to modify them sometime. I ended up retaining the chevy D60 for now but have plans to install a dodge D80 soon.

[Dieselwrencher]

Here are some pics of the truck as it sits on my trailer right now.




I did remove the bed to make it easier to do the rear suspension and I will install more than likely a marine plywood floor so I can get the truck usable.

[mosesburb]

Looks great!! Man that motor is low!! I thought I set mine low, but I think you have got me beat by four inches or so. I would have gone a bit lower, but my front diff clearance was getting slim where I have mine. What are your plans for the water inlet on the motor?? Judging by where your motor is height-wise, I'm guessing it should be pointing directly into the frame rail.

I like the red paint. That is one thing I wish I would have done is paint the motor a color. Mine kind of gets lost in the "sea of black" under my hood. The red sure highlights how huge the P7100 is. I know it is large, but from that angle with the contasting colors it really shows how immense it actually is.

Once again, great job!! It looks like you are building it to last!!

[Dieselwrencher]

I did get my tilt from Sharpie installed too. Thanks again Dennis! I also put my wood grain gauge cluster and cheyenne super glove box door in, a long with a borrowed seat from Brothers69c-10. Thanks Mathew!

[Dieselwrencher]

It has a 4" lift with 285's on it right now.

[dammitmitchell]

sexy

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks! Yeah, I did set it in pretty low, but that is because I wanted plenty of clearance for exhaust and around the firewall for the bell housing. My biggest intent for setting it so low is I plan on putting a P-pumped 24v with twin turbos in it before spring. It is in my friend's truck right now until he gets his newly rebuilt 12v fixed. The color is actually chevy orange. It was pretty funny last weekend I had a couple of guys ask what 6 cylinder it was because it was so dang big. As for the water inlet, I have an industrial one that points down going straight out forward of the engine. I have some elbows I am going to weld to it and I have a formed hose that will connect to the radiator. The radiator is another issue. I only have 4 core radiators for 73-87's, and they are too tall to fit right in the 67-72 supports. However, I did set one in there and the hood will shut, so I'm thinking about modifying the stock 4 core mounts to use the later radiator. I have been searching for a stock 4 core with no luck, and don't really have the extra cash to buy one right now. I have to decide how bad I want a D80 in the rear of this, and I'm really leaning on going that direction.

[mosesburb]

Your motor looks great!! I like the orange with the black wrinkle covers.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

The radiator is another issue. I only have 4 core radiators for 73-87's, and they are too tall to fit right in the 67-72 supports. However, I did set one in there and the hood will shut, so I'm thinking about modifying the stock 4 core mounts to use the later radiator. I have been searching for a stock 4 core with no luck, and don't really have the extra cash to buy one right now. I have to decide how bad I want a D80 in the rear of this, and I'm really leaning on going that direction.

You can make a tall four row from a 73+ work in these trucks. The rad in mine is a Delco replacement that is made in aluminum with plastic tanks, but shares the same dimensions as the one you have (Delco does not service the copper/brass unit anymore). I made a new lower plate and made my own retainers for the 73+ radiator bushings (GM p/n 6264100). You may be able to re-use the stock lower mounting bracket. I had to remake mine because I moved the condenser behind the core support which required moving the radiator back. The upper mounting was a bit more fun. I had to layout and bend up a new upper mounting plate. I also welded the bushing retainers into that. As you already figured out, the room for the radiator is there, but the mounting components need to be made to work with the taller rad.

There are a few pics throughout the thread in my sig, but this one will give you an idea of what I ended up with:

[1972K20]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks! Yeah, I did set it in pretty low, but that is because I wanted plenty of clearance for exhaust and around the firewall for the bell housing. My biggest intent for setting it so low is I plan on putting a P-pumped 24v with twin turbos in it before spring. It is in my friend's truck right now until he gets his newly rebuilt 12v fixed. The color is actually chevy orange. It was pretty funny last weekend I had a couple of guys ask what 6 cylinder it was because it was so dang big. As for the water inlet, I have an industrial one that points down going straight out forward of the engine. I have some elbows I am going to weld to it and I have a formed hose that will connect to the radiator. The radiator is another issue. I only have 4 core radiators for 73-87's, and they are too tall to fit right in the 67-72 supports. However, I did set one in there and the hood will shut, so I'm thinking about modifying the stock 4 core mounts to use the later radiator. I have been searching for a stock 4 core with no luck, and don't really have the extra cash to buy one right now. I have to decide how bad I want a D80 in the rear of this, and I'm really leaning on going that direction.

Hey, great job with this build. I've been reading because I'm wanting to do a Cummins swap too.

Can you tell me more about the water inlet you have? I've seen most guys modify the frame rail for it to clear. Can the industrial water inlet that you have be installed on any of these 12V Cummins? I like the idea of it fitting without the added mods to the frame.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

there are different kinds of strong depending on what you want from the truck. with the high levels of available torque and possibility of high traction high loads situations(i.e. Ryan recklessly attaches his truck to pulling sled...) it is possible to walk the gears in a 205 and since they are cast iron, the case gives a bow and takes a hike. the more modern aluminum cased, chain drive cases handle the torque better in those circumstances. with that kind of power potential and a suspension that gives no slack, it could make the 205 open its guts to the daylight. for a normal truck i would never fear the 205. they have been ruthlessly beaten for years and they seem to always work.

i didnt realize how hot rod you went on that rh. thatll be fun to drive

Yeah, I went almost all out on this trans. I wanted to be able to take it to the local strip and beat on it and also beat on it on the street. That was the original plan. That plan has been flawed and keeps changing. The NP205 is a band-aid until I do the front air ride. Maybe this truck will get it, maybe it will be the next build?

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Looken good . Nice to see some pics up again. That really is a bad ass trans . What trans is in my newly accuired 93 2500 4x4 ? It just came into the shop so i can get to work on it . If my wife gets stuck in the lane now that i took her 4x4 burb away im going to hear abt it.

Keep up the good work .

Your 93 more than likely has an A518. It is a 727 with an overdrive basically, with some upgrades. They are non lock up, which is the biggest difference from the 47rh's.

Originally Posted by 1972K20

Hey, great job with this build. I've been reading because I'm wanting to do a Cummins swap too.

Can you tell me more about the water inlet you have? I've seen most guys modify the frame rail for it to clear. Can the industrial water inlet that you have be installed on any of these 12V Cummins? I like the idea of it fitting without the added mods to the frame.

Thanks! I ditched the industrial inlet when I put the 24v in it. The industrial inlet put the lower radiator hose too low and would have required a lot of elbows to get it up over the frame rail. I used a dodge style lower inlet and also modified the frame to use the dodge a/c comp. It is tight but clears. I doubt I would do this again though. I prefer the F700 a/c mount and bracket. I was short on money when I did this one and went with what I had available. When I do the next 67-72 it will probably get an auto world type a/c comp mount and vintage air.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Yeah, I went almost all out on this trans. I wanted to be able to take it to the local strip and beat on it and also beat on it on the street. That was the original plan. That plan has been flawed and keeps changing. The NP205 is a band-aid until I do the front air ride. Maybe this truck will get it, maybe it will be the next build?

you's crazy. the next one. i tell ya, if this d60 sits around for too long, it'll end up in a trailer headed north, or in some old chevy... haha

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks! I ditched the industrial inlet when I put the 24v in it. The industrial inlet put the lower radiator hose too low and would have required a lot of elbows to get it up over the frame rail. I used a dodge style lower inlet and also modified the frame to use the dodge a/c comp. It is tight but clears. I doubt I would do this again though. I prefer the F700 a/c mount and bracket. I was short on money when I did this one and went with what I had available. When I do the next 67-72 it will probably get an auto world type a/c comp mount and vintage air.

i know this guy who set his engine real low and made a bunch of crap to solve these issues you speak of. he even has the F700 inlet still wrapped in cosmoline paper hiding somewhere from that long lost dream. ha! besides, that autoworld a/c stuff is less pretty.

[madmopar]

awesome build. love the diesel idea... love that its all coming out of a dodge! I'll be following along...

[Dieselwrencher]

Cough, cough, parts from a tractor, dodge, and chevy.

[Dieselwrencher]

Here are some pics of the engine that Wayne took at the All Truck Nats last weekend in KC.

[madmopar]

Alright, what I meant is: I like the idea that i could get a DODGE donor truck and have everything I need to do it myself... well, except for the knowledge of diesel engines... My daily driver pickup is a 98 ram 1500 and my wood truck/trailer puller is a 77 dodge W250 w/ a 440. I've thought seriously about getting rid of both of them and getting an early 90's dodge w/ a 12v in it... get the fuel mileage and power in one package... but those trucks are so ugly! I like most dodges but the 82-93 dodges are hideous. I'd take a newer dodge w/ a cummins too... if I could afford it! Also thinking my 70 LWB chevy 4x4 might replace my woodtruck/puller dodge in the near future.

[madmopar]

love the attention to detail and the chevy color!!!

[watahyahknow]

it looks like it belongs in there