My winter project

[Spf79]

Nice work! Who did you get the front lift springs from? Manufacturer I mean.

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by Spf79

Nice work! Who did you get the front lift springs from? Manufacturer I mean.

Spf79, the lift is from Rough Country and came with front springs and rear blocks. You Jimmy project is looking very good I will be checking in on it.

7D2N

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

Spf79, the lift is from Rough Country and came with front springs and rear blocks. You Jimmy project is looking very good I will be checking in on it.

7D2N

Awesome, looks great!!! Thanks for following along on mine, lol - I have been following along on yours as well.
Question about the Rough Country lift. Did you get extended brake lines?
I bought my lift in pieces since I wanted certain items like shocks different and what not. I got the Rough Country extended brake lines. Strangely the rear line fits loose. So... if you did get the extended lines... have you had any issues with your rear brake line not fitting in the frame bracket tight where the hard line threads in? I think I need to get an extra snap ring to fit in there somewhere to tighten it up. Let me know if you can. Thank you and have a good weekend!

PS - your metal work on the windshield header looks great! It made me cringe when you cut it out.

[7D2N]

Spf79, with the 4" lift I did not need to change any the break lines, when I get it back on the road I may need to change.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

Spf79, with the 4" lift I did not need to change any the break lines, when I get it back on the road I may need to change.

Dang... Good point, I did not think of that.

[7D2N]

Lift and springs are in, checking it before I tighten it down. I don't want to be going down the road half sideways.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

Lift and springs are in, checking it before I tighten it down. I don't want to be going down the road half sideways.

Awesome! 35's or 33's?

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by Spf79

Awesome! 35's or 33's?

35" and plan to get new BFG in the same size. I have the diff covers off changing gear oil and both looks to be 72. Is 14:43=3.73? the old cover off and now stock look.

7D2N

[Spf79]

Your gears look really nice compared to mine when I opened the diffs for the first time.

I read here on the forum somewhere... 43 is the ring gear tooth count and 14 is the pinion gear tooth count.

Same post divided the 43 by 14 and stated the gear ratio to be 3.07. Not sure if that is correct or not. I googled it and came up with it being a 3.08 gear marking, well at least according to a fella on another site.

There was something else I read on here that the type of transmission, (manual or auto) - determines your gear ratio.

I think someone will chime in shortly that has the answer.

Have a merry Christmas!!

[Spf79]

I forgot about this tab that was on my rear end.
So, it looks like 3.07 gears.

[rsavage]

35" tires and 3.07:1 gears will make for very sluggish acceleration and power. You may have to consider changing out differential gear sets in the future to something like 3.73 or 4.11. I had 32" on my 350/350 Blazer with the stock 3.07's and it was a dog.

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by rsavage

35" tires and 3.07:1 gears will make for very sluggish acceleration and power. You may have to consider changing out differential gear sets in the future to something like 3.73 or 4.11. I had 32" on my 350/350 Blazer with the stock 3.07's and it was a dog.

I have the 350 cu.in. motor and th350 auto trans. Is the 3.07 ratio ok for hyw 60/70mph?
Thank you guys
7D2N

[Spf79]

I think you will be good on the hwy with the th350, 35's and 3.07's. Probably a bit of a dog around town... but if you are just cruising... who cares?

This has been my experience. I had a 79 k10 swb in college with a 383 built with torque in mind, maybe 350 hp on a good day. I ran this motor with a th350, np205 and a 10 bolt that had 3.07 gears. It had a 4" lift with 33's.

It was not a dog around town, but slower than I liked, between 30 to 50 mph it was quick... IMO. On the hwy, at 70/75 it felt like it had good power and I could get up to 80/85 without much trouble. It had nothing past 85.

That truck liked to cruise at 65, it felt like a small push to get up to 70/75 and maintain. I don't think those tires measured out much past 31/32" even though they were 33's. Thinking about it, if you are looking for nice hwy cruising you might be set up perfectly with the th350 and 35's.

I also had a 74 blazer in high school that had 33" tires that actually measured out to 33 inches... with 4.11 gears and an old dog of a 350. It liked 55, and did not like 65. Based upon that rig I am going with 35s and 4.11 gears because I will be driving around town most of the time, 45mph at the most. If I was going to drive on the hwy a lot I would go with 3.73 OR 3.55's.

I would not stress about the 3.07's, change them when it makes sense to do so. Or keep an eye out for a 3/4 ton set up for cheap. Those normally have 3.73 or 4.11.

[7D2N]

I had some time to work on the front hubs and because someone thought big screwdrivers may remove the spindle nuts. I ended up getting a spindle nut kit and now good to go.

[7D2N]

I had some time when the super game was on so... the motor needed to come out and now I'm not sure of the next steps for trans and transfer case removal, they need some cleaning but I could use some guidance of the next move to get them out.

Thanks
7D2N

[Spf79]

Are you wanting to drop it as a complete unit or in two pieces? I have had good luck dropping it all as one unit. I like to have a helper when doing it. If you have access to a motorcycle lift/jack or tranny jack it is way easier.

[7D2N]

Now that I have scraped the grease and junk I think I know which way to go. I thought I may have to remove the cross member.
thanks
7D2N

[7D2N]

I have transmission and transfercase out of the way just need some cleaning up.
40 plus years of grease stuff I had to chisel some it away.

[jaros44sr]

As SPF says use a trans jack, makes life much simpler when jacked up on the cross member and exhaust studs in trans for lining up, remove studs when done or leave them in for future removal of t/c and cross member removal.

Harbor freight is your friend

[Harold Holbrook]

Do you know who makes that row bar? Door panel looks good all black. And last who makes that body mount kit.

Thanks
Jr.

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

As SPF says use a trans jack, makes life much simpler when jacked up on the cross member and exhaust studs in trans for lining up, remove studs when done or leave them in for future removal of t/c and cross member removal.

Harbor freight is your friend

jaros44, Thank you that will help a bunch when I start to put it back together.

[Spf79]

Looking good! I remember cleaning all of the oil/mud mix off of my crossmember, what a mess... I don't miss that.

What is the plan? Rebuild or doing something different?

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by Harold Holbrook

Do you know who makes that row bar? Door panel looks good all black. And last who makes that body mount kit.

Thanks
Jr.

Jr.
I looked for suppliers or manufacturers that sold this type of roll bar and I did not have any luck, this is the second one I've had and both were bought used. The body mount kit is from energy suspension and pleased how it went in, oh and thanks on the door panels I think I will go with black and trim no wood grain.

[7D2N]

Originally Posted by Spf79

Looking good! I remember cleaning all of the oil/mud mix off of my crossmember, what a mess... I don't miss that.

What is the plan? Rebuild or doing something different?

Yeah no fun for sure they don't show that part on the TV shows. As far as rebuild I'm not real sure yet after watching what you are doing, trying to stay mostly stock for cruising and such. I have learned after going this far though the Blazer seems to be assembled or on the line first part of May of 1972.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

Yeah no fun for sure they don't show that part on the TV shows. As far as rebuild I'm not real sure yet after watching what you are doing, trying to stay mostly stock for cruising and such. I have learned after going this far though the Blazer seems to be assembled or on the line first part of May of 1972.

Indeed, the TV shows always seem to miss that part. I look forward to seeing what direction you take!