Left for dead: 72 2wd blazer build

[Jeffs70]

nonamecharlie I would do some checking around the windshield to make sure thats not the leaking problem. could be something as simple as that seal came away from the metal. but also could be something worse under that window too like rusted through. also check around your doors to make sure there isnt any leaks or vent window alone. if the seals in the doors aren't good it will happen too. with the wind blowing and rain it can push that rain up into the doors/windows if not sealed properly

[PHAT TONY]

Originally Posted by Jeffs70

nonamecharlie I would do some checking around the windshield to make sure thats not the leaking problem. could be something as simple as that seal came away from the metal. but also could be something worse under that window too like rusted through. also check around your doors to make sure there isnt any leaks or vent window alone. if the seals in the doors aren't good it will happen too. with the wind blowing and rain it can push that rain up into the doors/windows if not sealed properly

These trucks are designed around leaking windshields; if you look at the dash top @ w/shield corners you'll see a drain hole on each side(l&r) for water to drain and drip from the areas you mentioned as it comes past the seal.

[nonamecharlie]

Originally Posted by PHAT TONY

These trucks are designed around leaking windshields; if you look at the dash top @ w/shield corners you'll see a drain hole on each side(l&r) for water to drain and drip from the areas you mentioned as it comes past the seal.

Thanks Everyone for the good comments, I will check into those things. Hopfully its not rusted through anywhere, but I don't think so, the problem is very small right now, no where near the severity of Cameo's project!

Cameo - What you are doing is amazing by the way, I am sure most owners would have "left it for dead" long ago, koodoes to you. That whole truck looks long gone, but you are slowly bringing it back to life, and from the looks of things it will look like a california orriginal when you are done (rust free).

I am a little curious, how does the Frame look? It it salvageable or are you going to have to replace/repair it too? What about all the mounting brackets and stuff like that under the hood and along the bottom?

[Jeffs70]

Originally Posted by PHAT TONY

These trucks are designed around leaking windshields; if you look at the dash top @ w/shield corners you'll see a drain hole on each side(l&r) for water to drain and drip from the areas you mentioned as it comes past the seal.

So I been installing these windshields all wrong for the past 25 years your telling me? I am supposted to let them leak? lmao geesh that makes my job alot easier since windshields is what I do for a living, Why would they in their right minds build them for leaks, Yes they build them incase there is a leak to prevent standing water, but that dont mean to go ahead and allow it to leak any farther if you know its leaking. those drain holes along the windshield are to just prevent standing water on the dash. those drain holes still allow water to drain on the floor board and in the rockers this can cause more rust this way if there is a windshield leak or leak at all infact. I guess some people dont mind a leak here and there then. but IMHO why would they have a windshield and windows with seals to keep the water out if it was ok to have it come inside the truck. if people didnt mind having water drain inside their trucks/cars then I am in heaven with my job and can just slap in any window/Windshield and not care if it leaks? lmao. I am also not trying to cause a fight here I am just a bit of a joker so dont take this all wrong.

[PHAT TONY]

Originally Posted by Jeffs70

nonamecharlie I would do some checking around the windshield to make sure thats not the leaking problem. could be something as simple as that seal came away from the metal. but also could be something worse under that window too like rusted through. also check around your doors to make sure there isnt any leaks or vent window alone. if the seals in the doors aren't good it will happen too. with the wind blowing and rain it can push that rain up into the doors/windows if not sealed properly

Go back and read your previous post before you go on a rant about my post!
I've owned 2 trucks with factory glass and 3 others with new glass and they ALL leaked!
Let's return this thread to it's owner.

[1956cameo]

Well I had alot of stuff going on this week but was able to get a days worth of work in on Wednesday. Unfortuntately I have not had time to upload pics for an update. I will do that on Monday to show the latest progress.

nonamecharlie, No problem. If you have any questions about anything please feel free to ask away! As far as the frame on my blazer goes, it is in good shape. No rust at all and no damage from accidents. I think what makes this blazers body so rough is that at one point in time someone put house carpet in it and when the PO got it he said the windows were open allowing the carpet to get wet and stay wet. It is funny I live in Texas yet most of my projects are from areas up north or out east where rust is usually more prevelant. As an example the blazer I am building on this thread is from Georgia and my 54 suburban is from Virginia and I had a blazer from Nebraska.

jaros44sr, PHAT TONY, and Jeffs70, Thanks for all giving your input about the vent topic.

[PHAT TONY]

I appologise for being part of this thread going somewhat sideways. Get back to work; you aint done yet!

[lks dcvn]

I think any carpet in these things [unless out of the elements] might be the cause of a lot of the rust...

These trucks are not waterproof - maybe water resistant is a better term - once water gets to the floor and the carpet - moisture will just stay and start the rotting procedure.

As mentioned in my post - if the guy who had my truck before me would have removed the carpet - the floor would have been saved [or would have been a LOT better than it was].

If you take the necessary precautions after cleaning out the rust [POR15, Rust Bullet, Bedliner, etc.] - I think you will extend the life of the floors in these things tremendously.

[1956cameo]

PHAT TONY, No need to apologize for anything! A fellow member asked me a question that I couldn't fully help him with so I opened the floor to fellow members to help him. You helped with your ideas on the subject. It is all good! As far as getting back to work, I will be back at it soon. Expect to see an update on this weeks work Monday evening!

lks dcvn, I definately agree with what you said. I also wanted to say that I definately plan on protecting all of the metal with some sort of rust stopping paint or coating. The only parts I am hitting now are the areas like in the cowl that I won't be able to get to when I finish metal work. The only reason why I haven't applied more than I have so far is because alot of the panels I have put in so far are just tacked in and not completely welded in yet. Once I completely weld them in and smooth out the welds ALL areas of metal will be coated.

[1956cameo]

Last wednesday (St. Patrick's Day!) I went out and got a little work done on the blazer. It was kind of a short day so this is just a minor update. The first thing that I did was bolt my new reproduction rocker box reinforcement panel into place. I did this to make sure everything will be welded into place where it will line up to the bolt holes in the rocker box reinforcement panel.

This is a shot of the reinforcement panel after bieng bolted into place.




The next area that needed to be put back into place was the patch panel for the rotted out rear door jamb section. I tacked that in once it appeared to be lined up properly with the quarter panel support that I made and to the floor section.




After doing ALOT and I mean ALOT of lining up and checking the gaps with a door hung I finally tacked the rocker into place. The gaps look great with the door closed. The only issue is that when the door that I was using was open it would rub on the very front of the rocker panel. I figured that when I hang the door that I will be using and if it also hits I will just tweak everything.




When I got done placing the rocker panel I had just enough time in the day to do one more small scale task. I had noticed that the rear section of the blazers floor was rotted out in an area just inside of the reproduction outer floor panel. Since that section was still on the donor cab I took the floor out of I cut it out and cut out the rotten area in the blazer. Below is a picture of the rotten area in the seat belt bolt in area of the blazer.




After a little lining up the donor section was tacked in and I called it a day.

[VA72C10]

good progress!!!

[lks dcvn]

Congrats - it is amazing how with only 5 pix I can guesstimate your time working on your truck -

[1949gmc]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

Congrats - it is amazing how with only 5 pix I can guesstimate your time working on your truck -

I was thinking the same thing, but my guesstimator is probably a little different than yours..... for me, I guess then multiply by three as it takes me three times longer than the average person to figure something out. For example: measure, cut, fit...... cut, fit...... cut, fit..... cut, fit. Damn, cut too much. Start over.

[Muleman100]

After disassembly of a few Blazers it is apparent that the factory used a lot of seam sealer. So my guess is when going back up with the build around the cowl area use a lot of premium sealer to make it last. Just an observation.

[1956cameo]

Thanks for the replys everyone! I am hoping to have a much larger progress report soon. Until then keep on 'n.

[VA72C10]

Looks much better. I see you had to use the finest setting on the washer to get some of it off...I had to do that on my frame and liked the lines it left all over...

[shaneschevys]

Looking good! Were you able to find any parts out at pate for it?

[trenz68]

looks like a good project

[Muleman100]

What is your target date for finishing the passenger side of the floor and rocker?

[1956cameo]

1949gmc, Thanks I wish the body wasn't in the way so the rest of the frame could look as clean!

trenz68, Thanks! Its getting there.

Muleman100, It shouldn't take any longer than it does to re cover the seats to a 1966 suburban!

I wen't out to my dad's on Saturday to work on the blazer. It was a pretty uneventful day. We only got the following done.

- Welded in the donor toe board
-Completely welded in the donor hat channel (previously blocked by rocker box)
-Bolted both aftermarked blazer rienforcement plates into place
-Drilled out front fender to body mount holes
-Installed rienforcement place in F. fender to body mount
-Tacked the bottom of the rocker to the bottom of the outer floor panel
-Bolted D/S seat into place and got all of the mounting holes drilled and brackets welded into place
-Removed the remnants of the old rocker box
-Test fit the replacement focker box into place


Okay I had some pictures to show but Photobucket wants to be a pain in my @$$ like always so I will post them when it decides to work properly again.

[1956cameo]

Here is a before pic from February of the drivers side rocker area!



This is a shot of the rebuilt drivers side rocker area as of June 6.


Same area just looking forward.


This is a shot of the rebuilt underside of the drivers side rocker area. This is before the remnants of the old rocker box were removed from the vehicle, and touch up paint was applied.

[VA72C10]

nice progress!

[1956cameo]

VA72C10, Thanks! It feels good to see one part of this tub that doesn't have rust holes in it.

[JimmyFloyd]

Looks great. The more pictures the better. I will be doing a lot of this same stuff

[oldblue1968chevy]

WOW MAN! A month ago I woulda looked and said cool. I started on this and im AMAZED! Your doing WORK! I wish you could come give me some pointers! Looks great how long has all this taken you? Thanks keep up the AWESOME work!