Calling all LS1 converted trucks.

[killer71]

Originally Posted by 68Mike

Seen this LS2 at GoodGuys in Pleasonton last month. Although it's not in a truck...This is what I want...

I want one too can i, can i, please?

[HarrolLS1]

Any chance of a stickie or a place for all the GenIII swap threads...?
Love this stuff...

[shifty]

I've been subscribing to all of them in hopes up updating my swap thread later on to include several links to this forum for info, but haven't gotten there yet.

[SchreinerM]

Alright, another question.

The other day my check engine light (CEL) came on in my '01. Car was running just fine, but an injector clipped open for a second. No big deal. However, without the CEL how would I have known there was an issue? I'm assuming you guys are swapping clusters as well - so how do you get around this?

[68 short step]

CEL = MIL ( malfunction indicater lamp)
the computer controls the ground to the light in the cab, or car... so you mount a light of sort (LED, perhaps) to the power sorce and the other side is connected to the computer (ground, when a malfuction occurs).... you also connect the DLC (data link connector), the thing all mechanics plug their computer into , to read/diagnose engine problems...

[killer71]

wow, great thread!

[shifty]

Originally Posted by SchreinerM

Alright, another question.

The other day my check engine light (CEL) came on in my '01. Car was running just fine, but an injector clipped open for a second. No big deal. However, without the CEL how would I have known there was an issue? I'm assuming you guys are swapping clusters as well - so how do you get around this?

Not swapping clusters at all - it's not necessary.

Gotta understand, check engine light is just an LED or small light with a pretty graphic over it. Just like everything else in the stock car harness, it has a wire that feeds it a signal, and the light blinks (CEL - check engine light).

Speartech and several other places sell a DLC (diagnostick link connector) and harnesses are hacked to produce two output wires: 1 is for the CEL light signal, 1 is the diagnostic data line. You provide the ground wire and the constant power, and voila - instand diagnostics light and line to send codes over.

You can get the DLC connector (diagnostic link connection = DLC?) from Speartech @ www.speartech.com. This is what you pick the code scanner up to.

It's all about retrofitting. Figure out how the original car works, then replicate it

[killer71]

Shifty; so are you saying I can use my original gauge cluster?

[Hart_Rod]

This is what I'm putting in my 69 Suburban. All electric Autometer gauges.

[Putter]

OOooooooo-Weeee. 'Dem is some good lookin' needle-holders you got there Rob.
You must'a spent a whole bucket of dollar bills on that!

How is the 'burb coming, anyway?

[shifty]

Originally Posted by killer71

Shifty; so are you saying I can use my original gauge cluster?

You could, with some minor modification in a few areas.

You'd need to convert your tranny to use a mechanical speedometer (this is possible, but more money than I would spend). There is a spot where you can drill your oil pan and tap it to use the stock mechanical oil gauge. You can T-off of one of your vacuum lines to hook to your vacuum gauge. There is a bolt hole in the rear of the passenger side head you can adapt to use the stock mechanical water temp gauge. Your stock gas gauge will work fine with no modification. Your stock ammeter gauge will work, with minor rewiring.

You will need an electronic tachometer, though. That's about the only gauge you really need to replace - and only if you really, really want one.

I'm telling you, with this swap, all you need is a 3-digit IQ score, some creativity, the ability to read, and the common sense to know when you should look up the answers on your own, rather than ask someone who has done the swap --- I say this because --- If your experience is anything like mine, asking people who've done the swap a lot of simple, easy questions up front makes them less likely to answer the tough questions and help with your problems later when you will really, really need the answer from someone who should know

Google is your friend. LS1Tech's "Conversions" forum is your friend. Good luck with your swap.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Putter

OOooooooo-Weeee. 'Dem is some good lookin' needle-holders you got there Rob.
You must'a spent a whole bucket of dollar bills on that!

How is the 'burb coming, anyway?

You know it! You need to find me another fuel gauge, so "we" can build one for the CrewCab. Burb's getting there, almost ready to start the paint work. Have you got that house done yet?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

is that the same bad boy i seen awhile ago, at stoked out, in rockwall?PS: lower that 4x4... looks great

Yep, that's the one. It has been in hibernation a while now. I hope to get it back on track sometime soon.

I think it's gonna be fairly low....

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

You know it! You need to find me another fuel gauge, so "we" can build one for the CrewCab. Burb's getting there, almost ready to start the paint work. Have you got that house done yet?

Isn't that fuel gauge the Autometer 5514? I had a friend in FL with three of them, have been trying to get ahold of him for almost 4-5 months now so I can get one and it's been kicking my ass!! (He's not answering my calls/emails).

Very weird.

I want to use the 3-gauge dash, with either:

a) one 5" speedo/tach combo with one 5" quad-gauge (oil/fuel/water/volt) and leave the center gauge intact

or

b) one 5" speedo, one 5" tach, and the 3-3/8 fuel, and find an add'l mounting location for smaller 2-1/8" (I think?) gauges for water and oil (I drew it up with them mounted in the bottom left/right corner of a 3-gauge dash)

I might relocate my headlight switch elsewhere and put the other two smaller gauges in the holes for the headlights and choke,respectively.

b) one

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by shifty

Isn't that fuel gauge the Autometer 5514? I had a friend in FL with three of them, have been trying to get ahold of him for almost 4-5 months now so I can get one and it's been kicking my ass!! (He's not answering my calls/emails).

Very weird.

I want to use the 3-gauge dash, with either:

a) one 5" speedo/tach combo with one 5" quad-gauge (oil/fuel/water/volt) and leave the center gauge intact

or

b) one 5" speedo, one 5" tach, and the 3-3/8 fuel, and find an add'l mounting location for smaller 2-1/8" (I think?) gauges for water and oil (I drew it up with them mounted in the bottom left/right corner of a 3-gauge dash)

I might relocate my headlight switch elsewhere and put the other two smaller gauges in the holes for the headlights and choke,respectively.

b) one

Option A ftw...

[killer71]

hey gringoloco are you doing the conversion yourself or having it done?

[killer71]

ttt

[jkade]

Well I finially got me another engine and trans. I ended up with a 4.8 and a 4l60e. What motor mounts are you guys using for the ls motors and what did you do to for the trans crossmember? I am going to turn the 4.8 into a iron block ls1. I got my pistons in yesterday and the crank is on its way. I am trying to locate some 243 heads and a ls6 intake and a tr226 cam. Also what accessories are you using on your motor (car or truck)? Are you using the truck oil pan? I hope the engine combo will make some good numbers and still give me around 18mpg.

[killer71]

Try this for the crossmember! http://www.performanceonline.com/sto...cat=455&page=1

From what everyone tells me you have to have the truck oil pan for clearence purposes.

[69Custom]

Here is a picture of mine.

2004 5.3L Out of a SSR all aluminum
4l60e transmission

It is being taken to a performance shop today to get some of the bugs worked out of it.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by killer71

hey gringoloco are you doing the conversion yourself or having it done?

Doing it myself, if I ever find the time... Collecting parts right now.

Originally Posted by jkade

Well I finially got me another engine and trans. I ended up with a 4.8 and a 4l60e. What motor mounts are you guys using for the ls motors and what did you do to for the trans crossmember? I am going to turn the 4.8 into a iron block ls1. I got my pistons in yesterday and the crank is on its way. I am trying to locate some 243 heads and a ls6 intake and a tr226 cam. Also what accessories are you using on your motor (car or truck)? Are you using the truck oil pan? I hope the engine combo will make some good numbers and still give me around 18mpg.

Just use the adapter plates available anywhere for the mounts. The ECE setup puts the motor too far forward IMO. Just move your stock crossmember back and drill new holes. Use the truck pan. The iron block LS1 sounds cool. You should just be able to bore/hone/reassemble and have a 5.7. With that heads/cam combo, you should see around 400hp.

Originally Posted by 69Custom

Here is a picture of mine.

2004 5.3L Out of a SSR all aluminum
4l60e transmission

It is being taken to a performance shop today to get some of the bugs worked out of it.

Very nice!

[killer71]

Hey gringoloco who's doing your computer work?

[shifty]

Originally Posted by jkade

Well I finially got me another engine and trans. I ended up with a 4.8 and a 4l60e. What motor mounts are you guys using for the ls motors and what did you do to for the trans crossmember? I am going to turn the 4.8 into a iron block ls1. I got my pistons in yesterday and the crank is on its way. I am trying to locate some 243 heads and a ls6 intake and a tr226 cam. Also what accessories are you using on your motor (car or truck)? Are you using the truck oil pan? I hope the engine combo will make some good numbers and still give me around 18mpg.

i went with ECE - they do put the engine a little par forward, if you are using the truck engine and plan to use the mechanical fan, this may be a problem for you.

i DO NOT recommend using the crossmember linked above (it's the same unit that ECE sells), I believe the tubular crossmember that CPP sells is a much more attractive, slim and easier-to-install unit.

Originally Posted by killer71

Hey gringoloco who's doing your computer work?

if you want something close to home, talk to Jared at www.currentperformance.com - he can make you a custom wiring solution that will replace your current fusebox using their SA-1000 (or similar) standalone wiring harness and grafting it into your factory harness. I bought the SA-1000 by itself, and after seeing the quality, i wish i would have paid to have Jared do my wiring.

EDIT: I am saying this b/c i tried to skimp on my wiring. i thought, "hell, why should i pay an add'l $300 to have someone else hack my stuff.

well, needless to say, NOW i understand. would have shaved several dozen hours off my project. $$$$ buys you time (saved). just remember that.

[lazybra1n]

I just got my LS1 in my '70 running. I used the tubular perches from Brothers and the adapter plates from Advanced Adapt. I had to move the perches back about 3/4" from stock location because the factory Z28 pan was hitting the crossmember. I used the factory trans x-member and just slid it back and re-drilled mounting holes. I've taken it around the block a few times... seems to be working good.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by lazybra1n

I just got my LS1 in my '70 running. I used the tubular perches from Brothers and the adapter plates from Advanced Adapt. I had to move the perches back about 3/4" from stock location because the factory Z28 pan was hitting the crossmember. I used the factory trans x-member and just slid it back and re-drilled mounting holes. I've taken it around the block a few times... seems to be working good.

We need pics