67-72 Bolt in pedal assembly

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Anyone thought about Hydroboost on this bracket? That may solve the hanging below the 'rails issue...

What exactly is hydroboost?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by jlaird

What exactly is hydroboost?

It uses hydraulic assist via the power steering pump instead of a vacuum booster. Much more compact system usually found on diesels...

[kristoferlarson]

any pics of the 4-link?

[Rokcrln]

Well my stock pedal is 17 1/4" from kick panel to CL of pedal arm. I am going to say yours is about 19" +- because the stock pedal is centered over the frame and yours needs to clear the frame since it is mounted to the side of it. Is their any way to have an offset arm just as it goes above the frame in the compressed position or would that require a larger floor opening? I guess you could just add an offset pedal pad or a larger pedal mount that would allow it to be closer to the factory location. I am doing a drive by wire 5.3L an was looking forward to mounting it over to the left about 1" more than stock for added driving comfort.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[stunna]

still looking for 2 more for the group buy....

[jephs422]

Sorry for the late replies, you guys are faster than I am...

Yes, the pedal is slid over just slightly. There is still a ton of room for even a size 14 shoe with the pedal assembly in the stock location.

As far as the option for mounting the factory pad to it, it can be done, but here are 2 choices.

-you can simply buy a Lokar brake pedal pad and then buy the matching gas pedal. That would probably set you back about $150.00 or so.

-or if you want a matching stock set, we will make a slightly offset brake pedal pad that will utilize your factory rubber pad. That one will run $75.00. It seems a little spendy for just a pad mount, but they're going to be made per order, and I don't see a plan to put them in a full production yet.


One last tidbit-

For the guys that MUST have the booster above the bottom of the frame, your best bet is going to be the weld on unit. The weld on unit will sit above the bottom of the frame. Remember, this bolt in unit was designed for the guy at home that does not weld, for an easy install. You guys with fab skills can take advantage of that and buy the weld in. They are both the same price...

Hope I didn't miss anything.

[VA72C10]

How close would this gas pedal match? Also, can you get a loose round pedal to match the brake pedal for the parking brake pedal? Thanks!

[bagged69c10]

Looks like a nice product.

[stunna]

Originally Posted by bagged69c10

Looks like a nice product.

i agree! we need 2 more for group buy of $350

[jephs422]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

How close would this gas pedal match? Also, can you get a loose round pedal to match the brake pedal for the parking brake pedal? Thanks!

Not exactly sure, but I am sure you can find a matching pedal. Remember, We simply use a Lokar pedal in the picture. You can use whatever you decide, or you can order it with the option to use your factory pad.

Stunna, don't fret, I think we'll have all five by the end of the week.

Oh, and they are in stock ready to ship

[stunna]

In STOCK?? Youg Guys Rock!

[jephs422]

Originally Posted by stunna

In STOCK?? Youg Guys Rock!

Yeah, that's how we roll....

[jephs422]

***UPDATE***

Because of the overwhelming response from guys that indeed would like to lay frame, we are no offering the pedal assembly in 2 configurations.

1st- The original as pictured in this post

2nd- The Booster will sit 1/8" ABOVE the frame. This new design will require you to alter your floor pan in order to access and fit the Master Cylinder. Also, it will put the pedal in the stock location.

I will have pictures of the new assembly today.

This new option WILL be included in the group buy, so come on guys........2 more!!!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by jephs422

...alter your floor pan in order to access and fit the Master Cylinder

Details on this portion please. Will the stock pedal option still be extra? Eagerly awaiting pics...

[jephs422]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Details on this portion please. Will the stock pedal option still be extra? Eagerly awaiting pics...

Well think about it like this; in the original design, there is enough room between the floor pan and the top of the master cylinder lid to be able to reasonable fill the fluid and check the fluid level. in the new design in order to clear the frame, there is about 1/8" clearance between the floor pan and the top of the lid. So.....essentially you will want to make an access panel, or unbolt your master cylinder to check the fluid level.

[VA72C10]

[QUOTE=jephs422;2938220]Not exactly sure, but I am sure you can find a matching pedal. Remember, We simply use a Lokar pedal in the picture. You can use whatever you decide, or you can order it with the option to use your factory pad.QUOTE]

Is this an extra charge or included in the group buy price?

[jephs422]

[quote=VA72C10;2940231]

Originally Posted by jephs422

Not exactly sure, but I am sure you can find a matching pedal. Remember, We simply use a Lokar pedal in the picture. You can use whatever you decide, or you can order it with the option to use your factory pad.QUOTE]

Is this an extra charge or included in the group buy price?

Sorry, the pedal is an extra charge. However, it will no longer be offset. Here is the revised pictures.

***Note***
We will be changing ALL of the pedal arms to sit closer to the factory location. It is off by maybe a 1/2". Here are a few pics on the test mule.

[jephs422]

[jlaird]

have you had this installed on a truck with a complete engine and exhaust? I'm just thinking about header clearance.

[Riveted1]

I've been following this closely, and was wondering the same thing. Also, how easy would it be to make it usable for those of us with discs/drums? I'm trying to picture it in my head and just can't. LOL

[stunna]

is the price of the one that works with laying the frame the same as the 1st design?

[jlaird]

I've done a little research on some of the other things that most of us will need to buy to finish off a brake system with a frame mounted booster/mc. jephs422, let us know if this is what you recommend.

I got this info from inlinetube.com. The following info is for 4 wheel disc.

First, we will need a 2lb residual valve after the MC, one on the front and one on the rear line. This is what they look like. They are $22.00 each.


Then on the rear line only we will need a adjustable proportioning valve. Price on this is $49.00 Here is a pic:


Here are the descriptions from inline on each:

Street Rod Valve Notes:
The adjustable valve is designed for both street rods and conversions using factory front brake lines. Of all the disc brake conversion configurations, using the adjustable proportional line valve is typically the easiest proportioning solution because it is installed anywhere in the rear lines between the master and the rear hose and controls only the pressure to the back brakes. No line pattern changes are necessary for installation. The front brakes get full pressure and the rears are turned down until they do not lock up and provide a smooth stop. Adjustment depends on tire, caliper and rotor size and is different for all cars. Adjustable valves can also be used on factory or race cars to fine tune the rear brakes or because of mismatched components.

Residual Valves:
These valves are used in brake systems where the master cylinder is mounted lower than the calipers, typically under the floor. This is a check valve that keeps either 2lb (disc) or 10lb (drum) of pressure in the system to prevent the fluid from running back and overflowing the master cylinder. These valves should be mounted as close as possible to the master before the proportioning valve. These valves are not needed on firewall mounted master cylinders.

And here is a diagram:

[VA72C10]

How much extra for it to fit a factory pedal or will a factory pedal fit on it now with the modification?

[jephs422]

Originally Posted by jlaird

have you had this installed on a truck with a complete engine and exhaust? I'm just thinking about header clearance.

Yes we have. Actually we have had this on a couple of trucks in the shop so far, and yes there is plenty of room for headers and exhaust, but it will have to be custom made (obviously). I do not know if a set of full lenght headers will fit, but I know a set of shorties, and mid length do work.

Originally Posted by Riveted1

I've been following this closely, and was wondering the same thing. Also, how easy would it be to make it usable for those of us with discs/drums? I'm trying to picture it in my head and just can't. LOL

for disc/drum this one will work just fine.

Originally Posted by stunna

is the price of the one that works with laying the frame the same as the 1st design?

Yup, same price

Originally Posted by jlaird

I've done a little research on some of the other things that most of us will need to buy to finish off a brake system with a frame mounted booster/mc. jephs422, let us know if this is what you recommend.

I got this info from inlinetube.com. The following info is for 4 wheel disc.

First, we will need a 2lb residual valve after the MC, one on the front and one on the rear line. This is what they look like. They are $22.00 each.


Then on the rear line only we will need a adjustable proportioning valve. Price on this is $49.00 Here is a pic:


Here are the descriptions from inline on each:

Street Rod Valve Notes:
The adjustable valve is designed for both street rods and conversions using factory front brake lines. Of all the disc brake conversion configurations, using the adjustable proportional line valve is typically the easiest proportioning solution because it is installed anywhere in the rear lines between the master and the rear hose and controls only the pressure to the back brakes. No line pattern changes are necessary for installation. The front brakes get full pressure and the rears are turned down until they do not lock up and provide a smooth stop. Adjustment depends on tire, caliper and rotor size and is different for all cars. Adjustable valves can also be used on factory or race cars to fine tune the rear brakes or because of mismatched components.

Residual Valves:
These valves are used in brake systems where the master cylinder is mounted lower than the calipers, typically under the floor. This is a check valve that keeps either 2lb (disc) or 10lb (drum) of pressure in the system to prevent the fluid from running back and overflowing the master cylinder. These valves should be mounted as close as possible to the master before the proportioning valve. These valves are not needed on firewall mounted master cylinders.

And here is a diagram:

Yes, that info is all correct. I do not know about inlinetube.com, but we stock Wilwood residual pressure valves in both 2lb and 10lb. We also stock adjustable proportioning valves. Heck, I bet we have 200 of them dang things in stock. Remember, we have a full warehouse full of parts. Basically if you need it, we probably have it.....steering wheels, columns, u-joints, brakes, firewalls, etc..

Originally Posted by VA72C10

How much extra for it to fit a factory pedal or will a factory pedal fit on it now with the modification?

With the offset pedal the way it is now, you will still either need to buy and aftermarket brake pad, or buy our brake pad that accepts your factory rubber pad.

[stunna]

jeph how much for your residual valve and your proportioning valve, assuming we get the group buy thing going?