HOW TO: One piece floor pan install

[mooseknuckles]

Originally Posted by DD1

Looks like it fit really well. I saw some people comment that they had to bang it up a bit to get the floor lined up with the firewall.

I am going with AMD; Jegs sells it for about $500 with shipping. Best price I could find. I agree that saving the time and hassle is worth the money. You can spend time or money, and in this case I think the time is more valuable than the money.

My other parts are a mix of brands. I have some triplus parts I bought off another member. One of my door pillars, rear door pillar, and lower cowl panel is from Triplus. I found that the Tabco part lined up with the body better, so I went with them for my cab corners, one rear door pillar, and one lower cowl panel.

My c/c statement ends on Thursday, so I will order the new floor on Friday. Hopefully I will get it by the end of the month.

I've heard that as well and was expecting it, but it actually fit really well. with a little hammer and dolly work it would be perfect, but when I hammer and dolly something it just gets full of dents...lol so I didn't mess with it too much....

[mooseknuckles]

Originally Posted by DD1

Thanks! I said you made it look easy, but I know it's not. I give you a lot of credit for taking on that job.

x2! I thought mine was bad and that I was crazy for fixing it. but seeing yours makes me feel better...lol. you did a lot of work and you did an awesome job of fixing it...well done!

[DD1]

I got my new AMD / Triplus floor pan from JEGS delivered today. I have a couple of questions for those of you that have installed these already.

First, I assume I need to move these screw mounts over? What are they for? I think the gas tank goes there, but I am drawing a blank as to what gets bolted in there. If I need to move that piece over, how do I go about doing so?





I know that the floor is supposed to cover all years from 67-72, so I assume that's what my next question is about, but I am curious what the bumps in the center back section of the floor are for? My cabs don't have these.





http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/

And finally, and this is basically me checking myself before I go and do something stupid, I need to do the following steps, right?

1. Clean the paint off the edge where the floor meets the firewall
2. Clean the back where it gets spot welded to the back panel of the cab.
3. Spray Copperweld on the exposed metal.
4. Spot / Plug weld them to the cab.

Please let me know if I am missing anything. I don't want to screw up a $500 piece of metal. Thanks!

[boynton]

It is hard to see which bolt hole you are referencing, but it appears to be a seat belt bolt hole. As far as the bumps I believe they are just there for added strength.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by boynton

It is hard to see which bolt hole you are referencing, but it appears to be a seat belt bolt hole. As far as the bumps I believe they are just there for added strength.

I checked it again and I believe it is the mounting hole for the rest cab support. Both my cabs have the bracket thing on top. I'll take better pics soon.

[bandy boys]

I'm getting myself wound up to replace my cab floor. Doesn't seem so scary right now. Hopefully before the end of winter which gives me a lot of time since I am in Canada.

[DD1]

Got my floor pan out... Got to prep the cab for the new one and hope it goes well.

[mooseknuckles]

wow...that's a lot of braces.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

wow...that's a lot of braces.

Yeah, I think I may have overdid it just a little bit. I think someone actually told me it was not enough if you can believe it. My heater box fell out yesterday and I can't remove it because of the braces. Yeah, I definetely overdid it.

[mooseknuckles]

lol.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

wow...that's a lot of braces.

By the way, since you said you are going to work on your floor pan this winter, if you live near a Home depot, those green braces I used are garden stakes. They are extremely thick and cheaper than the steel rods they sell. They work great as braces. Takes a few minutes to clean the paint off them, but at 1/2 the price it was well worth it to me. I cleaned the paint and cut it at an angle for the firewall side so it would fit well.

[Jkmyers84]

Awesome info!!!

[DD1]

Okay, so now I could use some advice from those of you who have successfully done this. I am trying not to repeat the post I made on my build thread too much (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...13#post6932613), so I will stick to the basic issues.

1. Got floor pan in place and sort of lined up. Used sheet metal screws to hold it in place.

2. The back looks really good. The front not so good. I could use help with the best tools to use to get the rim of the firewall straightened out so it lines up with the floor pan.

3. Not sure if it is lined up properly from left to right. It seems lined up well on the drivers side, but the door pillar looks like it might be too far in on the passenger side, even though the edge of the floor meets the edge of the firewall.

4. Should I do anything (add some metal maybe?) about the floor pan not having the full shape of the cab in a certain spot?

See pics below. Any advice anyone can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Here is the back and front of the floor:




What is confusing me is that it seems to line up pretty well, but the door pillar seems to be too far in on one side. Not sure if you can see it in the first pic below:

Here is the other side door pillar:


And of course the new floor was not molded to match the cab exactly:


Finally, here is the pics of the gaps where the floor meets the firewall. It's not so much that there is a gap, but it seems like I can't get them lined up so they meet each other completely flat.

[jaros44sr]

Start at the center of the trans hump and work your way out to each side. I like to use vise grips to temporarily hold thing in place, but still allows me to make adjustments. I ll see if i can post up pics of the ones i use, but basically it has a very large opening, with sorta round knobs on the ends

You might have to use a LITTLE heat, or a body hammer and dolly to help get the shape, but the metal will move

Make sure your floor is centered, and then work on the 'A' post

Take your time....

[msgross]

I also used small self tapping screws, then once it was in place I could plug weld the holes left behind...

[DD1]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Start at the center of the trans hump and work your way out to each side. I like to use vise grips to temporarily hold thing in place, but still allows me to make adjustments. I ll see if i can post up pics of the ones i use, but basically it has a very large opening, with sorta round knobs on the ends

You might have to use a LITTLE heat, or a body hammer and dolly to help get the shape, but the metal will move

Make sure your floor is centered, and then work on the 'A' post

Take your time....

Thanks for the tips. I'll give your suggestion a try.

Originally Posted by msgross

I also used small self tapping screws, then once it was in place I could plug weld the holes left behind...

I started to use some self tapping screws to hold it in place. I probably learned that tip from you. Thanks!

[92sierraslx]

Any updates?

[Possmguts]

Updates man... UPDATES!!
I think I may be getting myself ready to do this.... maybe

[oldgreen69]

So how is that floor coming along? Hope you got it in.

[EdSevered]

Yes, updates please!

[Justin@EntropyRad]

Killer write-up!

[DD1]

Hope everyone is doing well.

I have not touched the cab at all this year due to being busy, being lazy, and some health issues. I have had a procedure down on my shoulder twice this year, and going to #3 in August. Also got a blood clot from the first surgery. It's a long story, check out the last page or so of my thread for details if you are interested.

The general fitting of the pan install has gone okay, however I need to replace the lip on the firewall, and fabricating is not one of my skills. I am thinking of getting an angle iron from home depot to replace the lip.

I am unsure what tool I need to bend the steel for the curved part of the lip. I am thinking of a shrinker / stretcher. Any thoughts?

I think I have some pics of the install attempt on my thread also.

Thanks!

[Mark721]

Has anyone measured up one of these floors to see if they can be used on a60-66 cab? I know the shapes are a little different in places but my eyes are telling me the important areas will fit.

Mark

[Stokester]

There are quite a few of these floor pans on the market. Is there one better than the other/ one not to get. Need to do my 72 blazer. Can I get one locally(Houston)).
Thanks
Mike
Posted via Mobile Device

[DD1]

Originally Posted by Stokester

There are quite a few of these floor pans on the market. Is there one better than the other/ one not to get. Need to do my 72 blazer. Can I get one locally(Houston)).
Thanks
Mike
Posted via Mobile Device

I got mine from JEGS; it was the AMD brand. It was the best value for the money shipped I could find, and several people on this board recommended the AMD brand.

$460 shipped. I don't know if the pan is different for the Blazer. When I entered Blazer on the JEGS search, nothing came up.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Metal+Dir...-4067/10002/-1