65 Old School Build on a Budget

[Joey~AP]

Looks good, but liked it mo betta as a fleet!

[Old School Kid]

Roger that! each time I walk by it I seem to like it a little better..

[sweatmachine]

that is a badass truck man, congrats on a job well done (er, well doing?).

I could go either way on the fleet vs step issue, but I'm leaning towards stepside.

[Barebones66]

Very encouraging thread. Nice job, keep up the good work

Originally Posted by sweatmachine

I could go either way on the fleet vs step issue, but I'm leaning towards stepside.

Then you'll probably like this one I just came across. Anybody on here own this ? :

[Old School Kid]

Thanks sweatmachine ( I needed that ) and Barebones66, that is one cool truck! Ditto on the bondo!!!

[MikeN]

Nice score on the bed, looks good. And can't beat the price

[Old School Kid]

Thanks MikeN. Still playing with the different beds...

I was wondering. I have a friend that has a set of headers that he pulled off a 76 vette, do you think these would work. He upgraded to ceramic coated and these are in near perfect conditon.. The problem is that they are 1000 miles away and I'm trying not to have them shipped here to find out that they don't fit.. Just wondering if anyone has tried these or has any input. Thanks

Ordered short block and going to rob a lot of the parts from the Hell Camino motor.. Cant wait...Slowly but surely....

Thanks.. on a budget and just trying to get there!

[MikeN]

A Corvette is such a low slung car, I don't know about those headers. A set of Camaro/Nova/Chevelle headers might fit, but I'm not too sure about Vette headers.

[protrash64]

O/S/K.......have him send a pic of the headers. What I have noticed about the truck-style headers is that all the tubes have to go BACK before dropping down in the space behind the X-member. Most Camaro and Chevelle headers Ive seen have one tube that kicks out to the front, possibly for tuning, that would hit the crossmember.

There are a bunch of different designs so anything is possible, but these are my observations.

[Captainfab]

Some of the Vette headers are actually very similar to the 'correct' headers for these trucks, but I'm not sure if they drop down as far. They might interfere with the belhousing crossmember. But if you are switching to an auto, that crossmember needs to come out anyway. I agree we need to see a pic of them to give advise.

[Old School Kid]

Thanks all for your input... I will work on trying to get a picture sent to me so I can post.. Again thank you. If someone has a 4-5-6 and chooses not to be on this site they are crazy..

[Old School Kid]

I was looking at the thread (Post Your Ride 60-66 Trucks) and noticed that alot of you guys were running the hugger headers?.. I thought that I had read at one time that there is interference with the stock motor mounts, is this true? I'm going from a inline 6 to a sbc th350 and was going to move the factory frame motor mounts to the front holes, then just use factory 65 327motor mounts. Anyone have experience with the huggers and this motor mount set-up?

I just looked again at the thread, I think they are huggers!?!

I have someone that has a set of ceramic huggers, great price!

Budget Buget

[protrash64]

Its me again.......block huggers work but dump straight into the back portion of the X-over. Use shorty's to throw the exit back into the toe kick area. If you need ground clearance these are the best, but if you dont, long tubes will work if you find the correct type. I used shorty's for a 88-98 sb Chevy pick-up. Others use shorty's for 80's Camaros. Factory Corvette manifolds work, but Im not sure what engine type..maybe 90's. Check out the pics...I had a little interference on the drivers side but I also have the engine in the forward position.

[Old School Kid]

Thanks, very helpful as always.. Being on a budget stinks.. I think I'll go for the patriot h8021 mid length... Again Thanks!

[protrash64]

Mine were Summit brand which turned out to be Pacesetters. This was 5+ years ago.

[sams60gmc]

Hey man just wanted to chime in and tell you your truck looks freeking awesome! Like you I'am on a budget so it was really cool to read about Jeep springs to lower the rear. I'm gonna start looking for some tomorrow. Anyways keep up the good work and keep us posted on the progress!

[19GMC63]

don't know how I missed this... but the stepside looks sick!
Let us know how the headers turn out.

[Old School Kid]

Thanks guys for the encouragement....

I know this has been covered before, many times... but I just want to confirm...

I have a lead on a 1984 c-10 2wd frame with all front streering and brake components..( will this work on my truck?, direct bolt in? what do I need to do? ) also comes with rear axle, not sure of gears or diff... I need to make a decision in the next day so any replies would be greatly appreciated... Thanks

[jchav62]

Originally Posted by 19GMC63

don't know how I missed this... .

Me neither. Looking good!

[Old School Kid]

Thanks, slowly but surely..... Just read the post above about my often asked question. From what I have read it seems as thought it will all bolt right in... I guess I'll go grab the frame.

[19GMC63]

yep, whole crossmember should be bolt-in. If you use the 84 steering linkage, you might have to redrill the frame for the idler arm, I'm not sure though since I kept my stock linkage and just transferred all the suspsension components to the OG crossmember.
The rear end is a couple inches wider than stock, so keep that in mind.

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by Old School Kid

Thanks guys for the encouragement....

I know this has been covered before, many times... but I just want to confirm...

I have a lead on a 1984 c-10 2wd frame with all front streering and brake components..( will this work on my truck?, direct bolt in? what do I need to do? ) also comes with rear axle, not sure of gears or diff... I need to make a decision in the next day so any replies would be greatly appreciated... Thanks

Yes everything on that '84 will work on your truck. For the front suspension you can swap the complete suspension, just have to drill one hole each side and elongate one hole each side. Of course the engine will need to come out to do this. The other option for the front is to leave the og crossmember and just swap everything else. The steering box will work with an adapter (I have them in the classifieds) and the idler arm will need holes drilled in the frame as 19GMC63 said. The differential will be 1 1/2" wider than your original differential, so just 3/4" per side. You'll just need to have the trailing arm mounts transfered to the newer diff. along with a way to attach the panhard bar.

[Strodder]

You do have to drill the frame to mount the idler arm. I'm going to make a template from the newer frame so the holes will be in the right place.

[Old School Kid]

Ok guys, thanks for the reassurance... I know have the frame with the frontend sus.....Have a few questions, trying to make it easy and keep it cheap... Thanks for understanding

The steering box on the frame I bought is bad(giant hole in the bottom)

Should I transfer entire assembly or just the A arm assemblies?.... I need to take apart to put lower springs in already.... Is there any added benefit to the newer crossmember? I think from my reading that I can use longer style headers maybe even huggers? and a little better style motor mount?

Also I have a set of 6 lug wheels that I am running on the truck, I plan on keeping the stock (6 lug) rearend in it, was wondering if I could get 6 lug disks for the 84 spindles and brake set up and save myself from buying new rims.. The disks look as though they could be turned or replaced.

I am going to swap out the motor in the next few weeks from a 6 to v-8 so there will be no motor to deal with in the way..

Thanks for you input you don't relize but I'm trying to figure out all this stuff and any all input is greatly appreciated...Thanks for your help


Oh is there a way to also use the sway bar???

[Old School Kid]

1 more picture.. Thnks