'67 5.3L Build Thread

[67C10BUB]

I also got this engine cover to dress it up a bit. I think it looks tough. It is GM part# 12625893.

[67C10BUB]

I am using the 2008 Silverado power cables. Seems like a nice setup, but I am having a hard time finding a battery. I am told that the 2008 battery is a deign all its own. Anyone tried hooking this up to an Optima Red Top? I was told it wouldn't work at Costco, but it looks like it would.

[67C10BUB]

Here are some pics of the AAW wiring kit being installed. I didn't know when I bought it, but you have to cut the firewall to fit the new firewall plug. The first 2 show the adhesive template that the kit comes with. I drilled the corners and then used a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut it out. The 3rd pic is with the plug installed. The 4th is of the harness being routed through the dash. The column plug doesn't match, so you have to push the pins out. I found that a 1/16" punch pushed right next to the pin will let it fall out of the old harness. The AAW instructions are some of the best I have seen and it walks you through the whole thing. The fifth pic shows the rear light harness. The grommet that it came with was too big for the hole in my dash, so I used a PCV grommet (Auto Zone HELP! products P#42062). It fit in the hole exactly and had a 1/2" ID, so the flex loom fit nice and snug inside of it. The last 2 pics are of my dash cluster wiring that also came in the AAW kit. I haven't got my tach yet, but it's wired for it already. The PO picked the carbon fiber...Not my favorite, but it will do for now. Some day I'd like to get the aluminum one.

[67C10BUB]

pics

[mrhino]

Covans, Nice I used a Covans as well. everything is looking good

[TxSqueeze]

Which AC/Heater setup did you end up using? Did they have a certain kit that would bolt to the LS style compressor? I'm doing an LS1 swap in my 68 and just curious. I have already added this thread to my favorites for future reference! I'm waiting on my harness right now, but when it gets in, I might have some more questions for you when I start the swap! Nice build by the way.

[67C10BUB]

I went with the Old Air system because I didn't want the old cable controlled system (Like Vintage Air). Here is a pic of the new AC controls by Old Air. It is a solid billet aluminum piece, is all electrical (plug and play), and it lights up at night. The whole system is very nice, but the instructions suck. Also, if you go with Old Air check your box carefully. I was missing the controller mounting plates and the vent reducers. This kit is not for an LSX swap, but all I will have to do is have some hoses made and get the trinary switch and I should be good to go.

[67C10BUB]

Here is a pic of my completed gauge cluster. I even added LED lights that shine on the shift indicator. Should look sweet at night. I put the same LED lights in the glovebox with a switch that turns them on when it's opened. Also, check out the 4 speed shift indicator. All of the gears even line up, but 2 and 1 are tough to get into. I'll always just put it in drive anyway.

[67C10BUB]

I forgot to mention that I got 3 1/8" tach and speedo because they were almost half as expensive as the 3 3/8". The only problem was that the bezel was cut for the 3 3/8", so my gauges fell right through. I contacted a guy named Doug Davis who owns a CNC shop here in CA and he made me some adapters off of a drawing I sent him. He got them here in just a couple of days and were reasonably priced (way less than the larger gauges). If anyone needs some custom CNC parts made try contacting Doug at cncmfg515@aol.com or 909-592-2541. He is a great guy and very helpful.

[mrhino]

our builds are pretty close to one another, here's my gauges I to used LED for my turns, brites, and check engine. I broke the light for my shift indicator so right now i dont have one. I coulnt get my shift indicator to line up with the letter, but its close. I have a big sweep from park to reverse. Are you using a lokar shift linkage or a cable?

[heavy_duty]

Sweet build man.What gears are you gonna run in the rear end so you can take advantage of the 5.3l and not have hi rpms on the highway?I gonna do the same swap so I am very interested.Great job so far.

Ed

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by mrhino

our builds are pretty close to one another, here's my gauges I to used LED for my turns, brites, and check engine. I broke the light for my shift indicator so right now i dont have one. I coulnt get my shift indicator to line up with the letter, but its close. I have a big sweep from park to reverse. Are you using a lokar shift linkage or a cable?

I used the Kugel shift linkage (rod, not cable). There is a prior post with pics and measurements if you want to see how I set it up. Your gauges look really nice. I wish the PO had gone with the aluminum finish on the gauge bezel rather than the carbon fiber.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by heavy_duty

Sweet build man.What gears are you gonna run in the rear end so you can take advantage of the 5.3l and not have hi rpms on the highway?I gonna do the same swap so I am very interested.Great job so far.

Ed

I don't know what the current gears are for sure. The PO said 3.08, then 3.27, so I'm not sure what the truth is yet. I still have to jack it up and count the revolutions. Either one would be fine with me, I would just like to know.

[72mike]

Hey 67c10bud, what are you using for the cooling fan setup?
Can you give me a measurement between the factory radiator to the closet pulley to the raditator. I am about to start my swap and am not sure about switching to an electric fan set up.
Thanks...
Anything new, your post has me glued to every pic and word, its helping me gather everything before i tear it apart(hopefully everything).

[67C10BUB]

I am picking up my electric fans on Friday. They are from Rick's Radiator in Azusa, CA. They are a steal at $239 for 2 12" Spal fans mounted in an aluminum shroud made specifically to fit the 67 - 72 4 core radiator. Their number is (626)967-7518. Rick said that he can make them in just a couple days, or you can go to the Pomona swap meet and they have them on hand (and save tax). I'll take pics when I get it and install it.

[72mike]

Do you know if their is enough space for the factory fan/fan clutch setup? Electric is the way to go, but would like to save a few pennies right now to help lower the costs...

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 72mike

Do you know if their is enough space for the factory fan/fan clutch setup? Electric is the way to go, but would like to save a few pennies right now to help lower the costs...

I have seen other threads on here saying that there is with a little trimming/shimming of the shroud, but my motor didn't have the fan on it when I bought it, so I can't say for sure.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 72mike

Do you know if their is enough space for the factory fan/fan clutch setup? Electric is the way to go, but would like to save a few pennies right now to help lower the costs...

It depends on the motor mounts you use. I used the ECE setup and the fan and shroud fit perfectly.

[72mike]

sorry for being question guy, but do you have to run aftermarket headers? does the stock manifold for the LS motors not fit in the frame rails? Thanks for the info on the fan/fan clutch. You guys have been very helpful.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 72mike

sorry for being question guy, but do you have to run aftermarket headers? does the stock manifold for the LS motors not fit in the frame rails? Thanks for the info on the fan/fan clutch. You guys have been very helpful.

I know the truck manifolds did not fit at all. There would be major cutting of the frame needed to make them fit. The DT headers fit perfectly.

[67C10BUB]

Here are some pics of the Boyds Welding tank. It looks like a nice piece. Hopefully it works as well as it looks. The tank lines up with 4 factory holes in the frame, so you just have to mark them and drill them in the tank flanges. I'll take some more pics once installed. I am also including a pic of the polarity for the fuel pump. It comes unmarked, so Boyd says to take it apart to find out. Maybe this will save other people the trouble.

[67C10BUB]

Here are a few pics of the fan setup from Rick's (as stated in another post). It fits pretty well, but I had to buy 4qty 1/2" spacers and some SS bolts to install it. I just drilled and tapped the radiator support rails and screwed it right in. These are also a couple of Bosch 40A relays that I bought at the local electronics store (Abletronics in Rancho Cucamonga, CA). They were only $5 ea. I am going to mount them on the shroud where I have them laid out. I'll take pics once installed in the truck.

[67C10BUB]

My last post for the night is of the ECM/TCM bracket I got from the dealership. It was only $6 and the part number can be seen in the pic. I'll show the install when completed.

[jasonhall]

How much $ for the fuel tank ??

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

Here are some pics of the Boyds Welding tank. It looks like a nice piece. Hopefully it works as well as it looks. The tank lines up with 4 factory holes in the frame, so you just have to mark them and drill them in the tank flanges. I'll take some more pics once installed. I am also including a pic of the polarity for the fuel pump. It comes unmarked, so Boyd says to take it apart to find out. Maybe this will save other people the trouble.

Hmm, he marked mine when he sent it.

Love the build man, I need to get rockin on mine.