Shreck's 6.0 build

[usmcchevy]

If you do get it a little hot for the seal, just pause for a min right before it contacts the seal. By then it should be on far enough to use your old bolt anyway, I think....Dunno I used a propane torch on the last one I did and the seal was fine. Forgot to mention yesterday, Looking Great!

[dhkmichigan]

can anyone tell me where i can mount a door popper on a 1969 chev c-10?

[67shortie]

What.

Got my computer back from the tuner, and to much of a surprise he included a connector and lead that I had asked him about (that I could not find) and included at no charge and never said anything about it. Mucho props to him, that was a nice surprise to me.

Tomorrow I will be off to getting that balancer on, if I cannot find a long M16 bolt I will use the heat method and try to get it slip on enough to grab it with the bolt. I have tried 2 different balancer install kits with no luck, the threads are just too deep in the crank snout.

If I am successful, water pump and alt/power steering brackets can go on. I acquired another truck intake with all of the bells and whistles on it so I will clean that up and use it.

Pics of the computer and triangle style O2 sensor lead and connector.

[67shortie]

More progress, today I was finally able to get the balancer on and a word to the wise this is tougher than it looks. You will need a specific installer and a very large bar to give the bolt the required turn.

I was able to find a installer tool at the local autozone that had a threaded inner M16 adapter so I rented it and off I went to find a 3/16 fine threaded rod so I had room to fully thread the crank adapter. I took a picture of it in case this made no sense Basically I customized it to my needs and it worked well.

Bolted the water pump in, alt/power steering pump bracket, starter and was able to wire it up so it actually turns the engine over The truck is alive again, man it feels good to have power to the lights and starter to work it's awesome....gettin closer

[67chevy1series]

wow that is alot of stuff on that engine.... it is comin together nicely

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 67shortie

More progress, today I was finally able to get the balancer on and a word to the wise this is tougher than it looks. You will need a specific installer and a very large bar to give the bolt the required turn.I was able to find a installer tool at the local autozone that had a threaded inner M16 adapter so I rented it and off I went to find a 3/16 fine threaded rod so I had room to fully thread the crank adapter. I took a picture of it in case this made no sense Basically I customized it to my needs and it worked well.

Bolted the water pump in, alt/power steering pump bracket, starter and was able to wire it up so it actually turns the engine over The truck is alive again, man it feels good to have power to the lights and starter to work it's awesome....gettin closer

I did some heads on a 5.3 a few years back and I ran into the same problems. I had to run back and forth to the parts store a few times on that one.

Your engine looks great! you'll have it running in no time. I will probably be using your tuner guy. Sounds like he is the man.

[usmcchevy]

Nice progress! I swear some of these balancers must be tighter than others, I've done two both with a little heat and they slid about halfway on.

[67shortie]

Thanks guys, finally got things closer. It's more time consuming than I had planned on but it seems i am doing more than planned on too

I guess I may not have put enough heat to the balancer but did get it on enough that it did not want to come back off. No big deal, it's on there now and I am not taking it back off for any reason that I can think of

This weekend, need to find an easy way of adapting my oil pressure guage and machanical water temp guage to this thing. Looking at it I may want to go with an electric water guage so I can use the head port where the factory guage resides. The oil pressure I remember seeing on Summit that they sell an adapter that will screw into the rear block hole that allows me to use the 1/8npt. I think I had mentioned this in a prior post but this is the route that I will go with unless something comes up.

[eagleuh1]

I'll look at my parts paper work and tell you where to order the oil sender adapter for the back of the block. I've got one but haven't installed it yet. I'll look tonight when I get home. It's supposed to fit the oil line for the small block guage to the LS block. Engine looks great in there too.

[usmcchevy]

Oil press adapter sound interesting. Who did your computer tuning?

[67shortie]

Brendan at www.lt1swap.com did it, sent it off on tuesday and got it back that following Monday done and he threw in that connector so I would say that's good service in my book.

Tomorrow I think it's time to start wiring the truck up and getting my OBD port under the dash. That way I can test key on and power supply so this miriad of wires can get wrapped up and mounted.

Waiting on my Trailblazer manifolds and Walbro pump but I don't think I will get those for at least another week yet. Still have lots to do yet.

[eagleuh1]

Here's the adapter for the oil pressure line. It's AutoMeter part number 2268 metric adapter from 1/8 npt to M16 x 1.5. I ordered from Nook and Tranny on the internet. Good luck. Jim Could probably get from Oreillys special ordered.

[67shortie]

Thanks Eagle, I am off to the local Kragen and see if they can get this for me.

I will post progress later, weather is good here today 75* and sun so it's time to get some work done

Hey that rhymed

[67shortie]

More progress, wiring. Have the harness hard wired to the truck, and tested key on 12V, constant 12V and grounds.

I have power to all critical componants like coils, injectors, MAF, O2 sensors, fuel pump and a couple i am forgetting at the moment but I am very pleased so far with this, every sensor has power that I need it to which put a smile on my face

[usmcchevy]

Eagle, thanks for the info on the oil press adapter.
Nice work on the harness. I still need to finish putting the loom on mine and then hook up the fuses and relays.

[mcbassin]

Great progress! ready for the video of it running.

[RCbowtie69]

looking good

[67chevy1series]

where in central claif are you? merced perhaps?

[67shortie]

I'm up in Turlock, just 15 min or so way.

Thanks guys, it's all starting to come together

The loom, I think Home depot sells the plastic stuff pretty cheap, I will take a trip over there this week and start sorting this stuff out and wrapping it up. Then need to hit up a wrecking yard and find a good way to mount the PCM to the right side on the radiator support. I think a factory truck box will work just fine.

After that will be starting to plumb my fuel lines but I may have to drop the tank to do that but don't know until I start poking around under there.

[usmcchevy]

This is out of an 2007 express van.

[eagleuh1]

Looks just like the one I got out of a Silverado. Was Kragans able to get the Oil pressure adapter. I'd think anyone that sells Autometer guages could order it if not in stock. Good luck.

[67shortie]

I like that mount, time to hit up the yards for something similar. Thank you for posting that picture.

No, Kragen could not get that adapter because from what the parts guy said they don't stock autometer products but I swore I did see some at the main store near here. Looks like i may take a trip over there or my local speed shop but thier prices have been WAY higher than Summit or the local stores. I mean, I bought a power valve, 2 base gaskets, metering block and bowl gaskets plus a couple of acc pump cams for my Holley and the bill came to $70. Yes, that's not a typo.

[67shortie]

This may sound like a stupid question, on the fuel pump I know the PCM triggers the pump for prime but after that does the PCM recognize the engine is running and feeds power to the pump after the prime charge through the same wire?

I would imaging that must be true because I do not see why one would need to run a trigger wire and a key on wire to run it.

If this is wrong, let me know.

[eagleuh1]

I believe on mine it is triggered by ignition on circuit. In other words, when key is turned to on, relay is energized and power goes to pump.

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by 67shortie

This may sound like a stupid question, on the fuel pump I know the PCM triggers the pump for prime but after that does the PCM recognize the engine is running and feeds power to the pump after the prime charge through the same wire?

I would imaging that must be true because I do not see why one would need to run a trigger wire and a key on wire to run it.

If this is wrong, let me know.

I just got done wiring mine so the PCM is always controlling the pump, I hope its right.

EDIT: Question, What wire are you using to trigger your key-on relay? The one that needs to be hot in run and start.