Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"

[formikaus]

just curious, where in Georgia did you get the truck. i live in ga and it looked like the condition you see them in over here where i am at on the coast!

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by fakerwade

Looking good, except your going too fast. (making me look bad)
I like your fuel cell idea, keep it up!

Nah I'm a slow poke, looks like I'm going to get a boyds welding tank, He is about to announce pricing for this years group buy. you tha man wade !

Originally Posted by id_unavailable

good god you have done some work. Rust sucks but it looks like you have a handle on it. keep it up

Thanks, it is a little worse than I would have liked but hey I always wanted a 67 Short

Originally Posted by MJs69CST

Making great progress on your build! Still drooling over that engine paint!!

Thank you. Me too! to bad that is fakerwade's candy red engine. I wish mine looked like that.

Originally Posted by formikaus

just curious, where in Georgia did you get the truck. i live in ga and it looked like the condition you see them in over here where i am at on the coast!

A suburb of Macon it had Bibb county antique plates on it when I got it, definately had some coastal rust but I have seen alot worse. the cab supports look fine like it rusted from the inside out top to bottom (water in the drip rail and cowl). In OK the cab supports go quickly due to the red clay mud, once it gets to the outer rockers the whole floor is about to collapse in extreme ones ive seen here.


I've been busy with school but I have a few updates that I will post wirth pics this weekend. Later

[67c10rustbuket]

Here is this weeks progress, not much "work" because of school but I did get a little done and did some shopping! (I need more money $$!)

1st round of pics: I removed the stock dash/interior harness and installed the 97 Tahoe harness just to make sure it fit in the hole I cut. I will remove it this weekend so I can try to make some sense of all the 97 wires and splice/blend the two harnesses together.

[67c10rustbuket]

When I removed the harness the brake light switch came apart... no big deal I have a NOS replacement to use, Unless you want to buy it for more than a replacement costs....

[67c10rustbuket]

I got my fire wall / heater delete plates in from Infanti custom ($30 shipped) and I also punched out a handfull of slugs to fill all the holes in my truck......

[67c10rustbuket]

Finally, I ordered one of these!! EFI stealth, side(remote) fill tanks. group buy deal, looks awesome and I've seen alot of happy customers on here!

[67c10rustbuket]

OK I posted this already and it vanished... anyway I bought a mig weld cart from Eastwood for $59 thinking I couldn't make one for that price but after seeing it in person I could sense I can get sheet metal at cost and use our shears, punches, and press brake at work, but hey it was still a great deal.

The bottle, I got a sweet deal on from board member "suspect". He got me the hook up on an old nitrogen bottle that I was able to trade in for ownership and receive a bottle of arg/co2 for the cost of contents only, for life. Sweet!

SUSPECT is one heck of a guy and if I knew more people like him I might actually have some friends..(Insert sarcasm here, Yes I have some friends), Later

[JohnT71]

Looking good! Those patch panels and welder will come in handy. I do like the gas tank, that is very nice. I wish I was a organized as you, not very good a labeling, kinda a seat of the pants with me. Got mine started and running but the gauges not working yet, think I am missing a ground or something is still unplugged. Keep it up, one bite at a time.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by JohnT71

Looking good! Those patch panels and welder will come in handy. I do like the gas tank, that is very nice. I wish I was a organized as you, not very good a labeling, kinda a seat of the pants with me. Got mine started and running but the gauges not working yet, think I am missing a ground or something is still unplugged. Keep it up, one bite at a time.

Thats great, congrats on the start up! did you wire the old ign switch to the new interior harness? feel free to tell me how and save me the headache.

[67cheby]

Nice stuff !!

[JohnT71]

Yes I did wire the old ign to the new wires. There are 5 or 6 twelve gauge wires that go to the key in the new column. The red is 12 volts, pink is the fuel pump and the fuel injection so it is made up with the red in the acc postion and yellow starts the truck. So on mine if you connect the red to pink, then touch the yellow it will start. I got some wire diagrams from the Chev dealship for the ign to figure this out, and mine is a 98. If you connect the red to pink the fuel pump will run you will know you are going in the right direction. I just set the factory gas tank on the frame and hook the fuels lines back up and plug the wires back in so I didnt add to my confusion. Good luck!

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by JohnT71

Yes I did wire the old ign to the new wires. There are 5 or 6 twelve gauge wires that go to the key in the new column. The red is 12 volts, pink is the fuel pump and the fuel injection so it is made up with the red in the acc postion and yellow starts the truck. So on mine if you connect the red to pink, then touch the yellow it will start. I got some wire diagrams from the Chev dealship for the ign to figure this out, and mine is a 98. If you connect the red to pink the fuel pump will run you will know you are going in the right direction. I just set the factory gas tank on the frame and hook the fuels lines back up and plug the wires back in so I didnt add to my confusion. Good luck!

Cool, I need to go to the dealership and see if I can get a diagram for that. Did you just have to buy a couple paper diagrams or a shop manual? curious.

Also if I understand correctly you pretty much just hot wired the ign harness right? Im wondering how to hardwire that harness to the 67 ign switch. shouldn't be too hard just I haven't found a diagram of the 97 ignition circuit, Or i can just follow the wires to the fuse block to determine what their function is.

One more did you have to bypass the GM VATS ? I read on street & performance that 98 and up require this but 97 and under do not have VATS.

Later.

[mcbassin]

Nice progress on the harness. Like all the new parts too.

[JohnT71]

I did not get the entire diagram, the guy just asked what I needed and I started with the ign switch. I told him what I was doing and he got very interested. He told me that when I got to another stopping point he would print me more, didnt cost a dime, very nice guy.

I have got the red, pink and yellow wire on the old ign switch and it starts from the seat. I just hooked the red wire to it and used a test light to figure what made up when the switch is turned to each position. Hook the pink to middle position and yellow to the start.

And yes mine did have vats, when I first got it started it would die immediatly. So we drove to Street and Performance and had them removed, along with the emmissions.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by JohnT71

I did not get the entire diagram, the guy just asked what I needed and I started with the ign switch. I told him what I was doing and he got very interested. He told me that when I got to another stopping point he would print me more, didnt cost a dime, very nice guy.

I have got the red, pink and yellow wire on the old ign switch and it starts from the seat. I just hooked the red wire to it and used a test light to figure what made up when the switch is turned to each position. Hook the pink to middle position and yellow to the start.

And yes mine did have vats, when I first got it started it would die immediatly. So we drove to Street and Performance and had them removed, along with the emmissions.

Thanks for the info john, I never thought of using a test light. I will definately go check out my dealer. They seem pretty friendly other than the salesmen trying to trap me when I drive in to sell me a new truck. I always tell them "sorry she's (93z71) running fine just going to the parts dept".

[67c10rustbuket]

Any paint code geniuses on here ??

I checked my spid and it says paint 4537AD I believe that is blue/white but mine has been repainted a few times and not the original blue. I have uncovered 3 different shades of blue. can anyone tell me the name of the colors both blue and white? I dont know if I will repaint the original color or not yet but seeing the opriginal color paint chip may help me decide. thanks..

[67c10rustbuket]

On a side note...

My wife has been starting her own photography business and has some customers ask about taking pics of their kids with an old truck in a farm type setting so I took her and my baby out to my buddies house to look at a '47 chevy. I have been trying to convince her to buy this "photo prop" so I can put correct wheels and seat on it as well as getting it road worthy making it a traveling photo prop for her business, of course. at the low low price of $500 I cant get her to commit. OK maybe I would be enjoying it too much. don't judge the pic our subject(my baby) would not cooperate. doesn't the patina look perfect ?!

[YBNORML]

Gorgeous pic! Don't worry about her not cooperating, I think those make the best pics anyways
Posted via Mobile Device I always take random truck/kid photos. The truck does have the perfect patina though.

[Bud1300]

Thanks for the site photos I am currently building a 1970 Suburban. I am also doing all of the rust repair myself and would like to find the panels for the repairs. You said the the inside rocker was not needed due to the floor panel already has the same panel made onto it. Do you know the order # for the floor panel part and did it come from LMC trucks. Thanks for the photos and keep up the great work on your build....

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by Bud1300

Thanks for the site photos I am currently building a 1970 Suburban. I am also doing all of the rust repair myself and would like to find the panels for the repairs. You said the the inside rocker was not needed due to the floor panel already has the same panel made onto it. Do you know the order # for the floor panel part and did it come from LMC trucks. Thanks for the photos and keep up the great work on your build....

Thanks for checking out my build,

My issue with the inner rocker backing plate was that it was too short vertically so it would not meet with the bottom of the rocker. After I cut the old rusty parts out I realized the whole floor edge piece anyway because the inner rocker backing did not extend far enough front to rear as I had rust all the way across. I bought all of my parts from classic chevrolet in OKC except for the B pillar bottom which is the lower section of the rear door jamb behind the rocker. As far as I know most of this stuff is from the same Taiwanese factory. My parts are all manufactured as Tri-plus/Key parts. There are some variations in thickness though most of my pieces are 1.2mm while the outer floor edge piece is 1.4mm and the actual floor pan (not installed yet) is 1.0mm the thicknesses are labeled on the sticker. heres a pic to help explain my issue. and link to classic chevrolet

http://www.classicchevroletparts.com/

also heres a pic of the LMC parts catalog and the classic chevrolet catalog, I used parts 2,3,7,8 in the LMC diagram but bought them from classic. I bought part 9 from LMC because classic didn't have it at the time. the pricing for classic is wrong the floor edge is $78.95 still cheaper than LMC
the classic catalog is a little frumpy and doesn't have very good pictures

[67c10rustbuket]

Well I was going to get a auto trans Xmember from my good buddy Mike but he was out of town and I realized a custom one would do me some good in routing the exhaust above the bottom of the frame so I bought one from GMCPauls on Ebay.

Too busy with school to do any real work on her.

Sold the plastic Jaz fuel cell and POS pressure pot sand blaster.

Also in the mean time heres something to look at. My 97 S10 around 2001? just before I sold her and got married. That was my first bagged truck and I put a lot of work into her even though I was not a welder at the time. Yeah that is Cheetah fur. I wonder what happened to that old truck. Not a bad thing though, once I sold it I bought a 69C10 daily driver and that started my C10 addiction and the dream of this build that I have now 67 SWB that I finally got going.

[Crash_OK]

Great Job.. I ordered the same tank.. good luck on the build..

I am subscribed..

[67c10rustbuket]

Thanks everyone for the encouragement and checking out my build, been pretty busy lately so not much time for Georgia.

On the sheetmetal subject, I recently saw another members floors from LMC and I have to say I beleive the triplus parts are much better! The cab corners looked very similar but the LMC corners looked to be about 100 degrees around the bend where my triplus corners are closer to 90 degrees around the corner. So maybe there are multiple taiwanese manufacturers??

Here's what I got done this weekend:

1-Hacked out the old dual exhaust system with my sawsall

2-Painted and installed my auto-trans Xmember from GMC pauls. Pain in the butt!! talk about a press fit. not bolted in yet.. Nice piece, but very tight. looks like it might just line up without drilling any holes. I guess we'll find out when i get enough room to get the mount in.

3-Hooked my E-brake back up, looks like I'll need to reroute it to clear the exhaust.

4-Scrathced my head....

I am going to go with a high hump floor piece as my 4L60E is almost hitting the floor without a mount in it. It would clear just barely if I had new cab mounts since mine are 45 yrs old and quite compressed. Right now the wiring harness on top of the trans is hitting the floor. Also the fuel lines are hitting the pinch weld at the bottom of the firewall. DOH! Any Okies have a spare hump laying around?

[mcbassin]

Looks like some good progress Dan. On the patch panels. I'm certain there are more than just Tri-Plus / key parts. Some fit some don't fit at all. Most are too thin. I had pretty good luck with the Tabco cab corners I used. They fit very well with minimal tweaking. I had to use my only high hump for my cab.

My tunnel actually hit the tranny. I prefer the look of the low hump but need the extra clearence for the tranny too. They come up pretty often on the classified section.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Looks like some good progress Dan. On the patch panels. I'm certain there are more than just Tri-Plus / key parts. Some fit some don't fit at all. Most are too thin. I had pretty good luck with the Tabco cab corners I used. They fit very well with minimal tweaking. I had to use my only high hump for my cab.

My tunnel actually hit the tranny. I prefer the look of the low hump but need the extra clearence for the tranny too. They come up pretty often on the classified section.

I checked out Tabco's website after I saw you and crash_ok mention them previously. I might buy from them for the passenger side and see how they compare. I measured and I need just over .5" to get the trans mount in there and that will put the trans right up against the floor not counting the harness. No clearance so its definitely a necessity(high hump).