Project "Captain Insano"

[funkytechmonkey]

Are you planning on doing a bed fill? Looks like it fromthe tank you have. Are you going to do a trap door?
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[suspect]

thanks.....67rustbuket stopped by one day last week. he said you (mcbassin) have a nice frame and LS going on. i would like to see more trucks done around town. there's quiet a bit around, but i've only seen maybe a couple finished looking good.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by funkytechmonkey

Are you planning on doing a bed fill? Looks like it fromthe tank you have. Are you going to do a trap door?
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yeah, i'm doing the bed fill. i'll have a wood floor. i haven't really thought that far ahead yet to know exactly what i'm going to do. my immediate vision is to have a cap that's flush with the floor. i haven't mocked up the tank yet, so i'm not sure where it sits. if the cap is well below the floor, then i'll probably do a trap door. it pretty much determines where the cap will be once it's mounted, then that's what i will go with.

[funkytechmonkey]

My plans were to do the same with a flush mount filler...But the bed filler neck on the tank is 2 1/4" and the neck on all of the flush mounts, that I have seen are 1 1/2". I may have found a silicone reducer that will work...if it doesn't work them we ate stuck with the trap door. I called Boyd Welds today and talked to Dan....he said he has never heard of this problem. I wish I knew this before hand so I couldve had them make my filler neck 1 1/2" so I could hook directly into the flush mount. Just a heads up on when you get to that point.
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[screaminchevypickup]

Cool project!!!

[suspect]

the new piston & cylinder for the compressor came in. i also ordered a new piston ring for the other side, but it won't show up until monday. i have tomorrow off work, so i'll probably put it together so i can do some work on the truck. i also went ahead and changed out both bearings.

[suspect]

project captain insano

[suspect]

these dura-blocks are what i like to use for sanding. you can curve it to fit whatever panel you need, once you stick on your sandpaper it'll stay. i start sanding before the filler gets too hard with 36 grit. this cuts sanding time down to a few minutes, once i think i'm close i'll step down to 80 grit, then 240. i usually have some sand marks, then i fill them in with glaze putty. there's a photo of it half sanded down to show how it balls up before it gets too hard. when it loads up in the 36 g, just tap it out. the time from once i laid down the filler until it was primered took me about 30 min. i'm just saying so for some of you out there that think you need to wait until your filler gets rock hard before you start sanding, you don't need to. you'll save yourself alot of time and energy. and i also use about half the amount of hardener than what the instructions say so i can work it before it gets too hard too quick.

[suspect]

i'll block down my guide coat tomorrow and fill in any scratches with glaze.

[VA72C10]

Nice work!!! I like those blocks a lot also!

[TimII129]

Your posts from earlier have been most helpful. Ive been looking through posts for a good under cab insight (as i am only on my first project and a little new to it all).. sucks with the welder i just bought the same darn one for the same uses, $200 lol just couldnt pay $800 for a good one yet.. look forward to following this.. cool name!

[mcbassin]

Nice work on the bodywork. I was wondering about the glaze you are talking about? Is it made by evercoat as well? I stopped using the old bondo glaze because of how it would sometimes "melt" into the primer, almost like it had lacquer thinner in it. I assume the glaze you are using doesn't do that? Thanks, Keep up the good work.

[67c10rustbuket]

Nice mud work,I will have to try that one, and firewall fillers too. I must be lazy cuz I bought mine and I have access to all kinds of sheet metal fab equipment at work.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by TimII129

Your posts from earlier have been most helpful. Ive been looking through posts for a good under cab insight (as i am only on my first project and a little new to it all).. sucks with the welder i just bought the same darn one for the same uses, $200 lol just couldnt pay $800 for a good one yet.. look forward to following this.. cool name!

that's awesome that i helped in some way. good luck on your truck, you'll learn alot of cool ideas and solve alot of problems from these guys on here.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice work on the bodywork. I was wondering about the glaze you are talking about? Is it made by evercoat as well? I stopped using the old bondo glaze because of how it would sometimes "melt" into the primer, almost like it had lacquer thinner in it. I assume the glaze you are using doesn't do that? Thanks, Keep up the good work.

thanks, and it was cool meeting you yesterday. the stuff i use now and the techniques i learned from an auto body guy that i briefly knew. the body filler and glaze putty i use is evercoat. i get all my body supplies at B&H Supply, it's on NW 39th Expressway near Meridian, on the south side of the road. i got a gallon of body filler for $35. i bought the glaze last year when i was working on my 01 silverado, i think it was about $40. it's more expensive than all the tube stuff, but far SUPERIOR. plus it comes in a nifty plastic can that is like an accordian on top, so you just pump out what you need. it's more thin than filler and mixes with a hardener also. i definetely recommend getting the evercoat glaze. i only apply body filler to bare metal, but the glaze you can apply to your filler or over primer. i'll post up some pics once i start using it.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Nice mud work,I will have to try that one, and firewall fillers too. I must be lazy cuz I bought mine and I have access to all kinds of sheet metal fab equipment at work.

shame on you for not making your own fillers. lol

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by suspect

thanks, and it was cool meeting you yesterday. the stuff i use now and the techniques i learned from an auto body guy that i briefly knew. the body filler and glaze putty i use is evercoat. i get all my body supplies at H&H Supply, it's on NW 39th Expressway near Meridian, on the south side of the road. i got a gallon of body filler for $35. i bought the glaze last year when i was working on my 01 silverado, i think it was about $40. it's more expensive than all the tube stuff, but far SUPERIOR. plus it comes in a nifty plastic can that is like an accordian on top, so you just pump out what you need. it's more thin than filler and mixes with a hardener also. i definetely recommend getting the evercoat glaze. i only apply body filler to bare metal, but the glaze you can apply to your filler or over primer. i'll post up some pics once i start using it.

Thanks for the heads up on the glaze. Sounds like H&H has good prices. I may need to go get it there.

[Tinkermc]

when I was younger I did the same trick as in the 2nd pic in post 5. Ladies in the bar liked the trick 4 some reason. with the light weight glaze, make sure it is non-shrinking and you will have no problems. Worl still looks very nice.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by Tinkermc

when I was younger I did the same trick as in the 2nd pic in post 5. Ladies in the bar liked the trick 4 some reason. with the light weight glaze, make sure it is non-shrinking and you will have no problems. Worl still looks very nice.

i must have been going to the wrong bars, cause everytime i did that i got slapped. lol

[suspect]

another bonus about sanding while the filler isn't fully hard is if you need to go back and apply a little more for a low spot, you can work it down without cutting into the filler you already worked.

[mcbassin]

Looking good Daniel, unfortunately I usually always wait too long on my filler and it cures over night or even a few days makes for some harder sanding. Evercoat is way better than the old school bondo though.

You don't have any issues with shrinkage if you final sand before it's cured? I would assume this stuff is made for production body shops that don't have time to wait a day or two.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Looking good Daniel, unfortunately I usually always wait too long on my filler and it cures over night or even a few days makes for some harder sanding. Evercoat is way better than the old school bondo though.

You don't have any issues with shrinkage if you final sand before it's cured? I would assume this stuff is made for production body shops that don't have time to wait a day or two.

i never had a shrinkage problem (no pun intended). lol i did alot of shaving on my 01 silverado, stake pockets, 3rd brake light, tailgate handle, & caddy taillights with no problems. i never use an inline pneumatic sander, and rarely use a DA. i used to hate doing body work, but now i really enjoy it.
shrinking isn't a problem because i knock down the bulk of it with 36 or 40 grit, then i step down to 80. by that time it's pretty close to fully cured. then i go over all of it with my glaze. the following pics are of the glaze.

[suspect]

here are some pics of the glaze. i highly recommend to everyone to check this glaze out, if you haven't already. also the use of guide coat incase others don't use it. i won't go through and show every step on all the body work i do, i just want to show this first one.
in the fourth photo, i go over the guide coat very lightly with some 120 grit. you will be able to see your high/low spots and you'll be able to know where to work the areas.
also, when my sandpaper loads up, i just scrape it with a small wire brush. it cleans it out very easily.

[suspect]

this is the guide coat i use. any brand will do just fine, i've even used black primer as a guide before. just spray it on very lightly.

[mcbassin]

Nice step by step write up Daniel. I need to pick up guide coat this week when I get the glaze and sanding blocks. I have been hitting the bodywork pretty hard the last few days. BTW, I don't share your like for bodywork. It's just so time consuming. I think I enjoy making stuff much more.
Looking forward to updates.