My TH350 rebuild

[rs72z]

Are you talking about the drum that goes on top of the foward drum? If so that is the direct drum, it has the intermidate sprag on top of it. The direct drum has two seals on the piston and one inside the drum. Sometimes this piston can be tough to get in because of the inner seal in the drum. When it's down all the way it should make a clunk.
Aso make sure you put the element on the sprag back on the right way, if it's backward no second gear. That's also a light duty sprag if you are going to be working it hard or playing offroad alot it would be a good idea to replace it with a heavy duty element.

Was your foward clutches fried?

[1977K10]

oh, yea 3 friction rings in my forward drum were fried, I'll get a picture of them here in just a few minutes.
but not the drum with the sprag on it, but the one that fits on top, I went and got 2 6" C-clamp, to press down on the springs in order to get the lock ring in, but because I worked on it until like 10:00pm, I think I was maybe tired, but I know I have had 2-3 hours of trouble attempting to get that lock ring in.

[rs72z]

Take a pic of the one that's giving you trouble. I think you are referring to the direct drum, the one that goes down on the foward drum.

I was just looking back at the picture of your spring compressor, unless you changed it the U shaped piece is on it upside down. The U shaped piece should go against the spring retainer and the long bar should go on the back side of the direct drum or case for low/reverse piston.

[1977K10]

the spring compressor I just got the cross bar is to long to fit into the drum.
and I hav e to recant myself, it is the drumj that the sprag fits onto......
I did get some video, and pictures, I am goi ng to upload them and put the link here so everyone can see what I was referring to.

[1977K10]

Here is my pictures of the Intermediate drum that I am having problem with....
the links for the video are coming very quickly.

[1977K10]

here is video 1:
http://youtu.be/4rEENLUbWoU
video 2:
http://youtu.be/pJFAXLx3QxQ

[rs72z]

The picture that shows the piston in the drum, the piston isn't in all the way yet.
What are using to get the lip sill to go down into the drum?
What are you lubing the lip seals with?

[1977K10]

I an using new trans fluid to lubricate, and I had to go get 2 6" c-clamps in order to put pressure on the springs.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

I an using new trans fluid to lubricate, and I had to go get 2 6" c-clamps in order to put pressure on the springs.

The piston isn't in all the way. Take it out and make sure that you haven't cut them trying to force it in. You need to take some vasoline and mix a little trans fluid with it or get some trans gel from a trans shop or supply company.. Put the mixture on the seals before trying to install them. Next you need to get a feeler gauge set and use the thinest gauge in there to go around the seals and drum to help get the piston to go all the way into the bore. Be careful doing this so as not to cut the seal.

[1977K10]

ok, gotcha, I can get that tomorrow, I get paid today after 5. I can go get some of that before work on sat

[1977K10]

Oh, yea, I checked to make sure I didn't damage the seal I used a small pick yesterday with trans fluid to slide the seal into the groove, and the center seal into the case, I double checked that as to make sure there was no damage, as fun as this has been, A don't want to have to pull the trans back out to redo a seal.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

Oh, yea, I checked to make sure I didn't damage the seal I used a small pick yesterday with trans fluid to slide the seal into the groove, and the center seal into the case, I double checked that as to make sure there was no damage, as fun as this has been, A don't want to have to pull the trans back out to redo a seal.

Once you get the forward and direct packs toghter you can drop then into the pump and with about 10-20 psi of air check to make sure they are applying just to be sure.

Once the piston is in all the way when you set the springs on the piston you will only have to compress the springs about a 1/2" to get the snap ring in.

[1977K10]

I don't have an air compressor available to me at this point, it's in my storage under another tool box, I have three big tool boxes in there, I put tools into my tool back pack and brought them from storage.

[1977K10]

Yea, it was easier to get out than getting them back in, but I am not giving up,
I will take my time with them to make sure that it's right.

[1977K10]

With my forward clutch pack, I didn't even have to remove the springs at all, I just unlocked the outer lock ring and the steel plates, and friction rings came right out no problem.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

With my forward clutch pack, I didn't even have to remove the springs at all, I just unlocked the outer lock ring and the steel plates, and friction rings came right out no problem.

You did replace the seals in the foward drum, right?

The frictions and steals should come out after removing the big lock ring on op. You remove the snap ring on the springs after removing the frictions and steels.
Same when installing. Install the piston and the springs. then once the you have the snap ring on the springs install the frictions and steels and pressure plate then the lockring.

I hope this make sense and i'm not confusing you more.

[1977K10]

no, your not confusing me, I am following you.
no, I hadn't, I was thinking about it, although when I ran into the spring base on the intermediate, I thought better of it, the seals in the intermediate are still in good shape, if on the odd chance I wanted to reuse them, I just didn't want to have to fight with the forward clutch pack to, although, I probably should check them so I can make sure they are in good shape to.

[1977K10]

reading my th350 handbook, I may have located the problem with the spring base, it says to install new inner and outer seals on direct-clutch spring base seal lips must point away from spring release side of piston.
I put them back on the way I had got them off, and they were pointed toward the springs, not away from them.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

reading my th350 handbook, I may have located the problem with the spring base, it says to install new inner and outer seals on direct-clutch spring base seal lips must point away from spring release side of piston.
I put them back on the way I had got them off, and they were pointed toward the springs, not away from them.

Yes, that's right the open part of the seal goes away from the piston. The one inside the direct drum faces up toward the piston.

[1977K10]

who ever installed them the last time didn't have them pointing the right way, that may help to seat them correctly now

[rs72z]

When you take the piston out snap a pic of the seals and then one after you change them and also of the one in the direct drum.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

who ever installed them the last time didn't have them pointing the right way, that may help to seat them correctly now

The direct piston was always the hardest for me to install.

[1977K10]

I am glad I am not the only one that has had problems with the intermediate...
begining to think I was a dork or something, yea once I get the intermediate, and the forward reopened, I will get a few pics, so far though I havent found that the bushings, thrust bearings, or anything of that has had any kind of damage, looks like normal use.
the only place there has been any damage has just been the forward clutch pack..., that was a big sigh of relief. when I get this back together I will be ordering some of the Lube Guard trans flush fluid, and flush out the trans, then try some of their trans fluids, and what not.

[1977K10]

well it has paused the raining for a bit, so I am going to hop out there and get to work for about 2-3 hours before I have to go to work.
I can still respond by mobile, pictures will have to wait until I come back in.
hooray.

[rs72z]

Text me a pic if you have any questions.