Mr. Hyde's Ride

[Mr.Hyde]

So much for no snow. We still have plenty ill be pulling the cab into the garage for this weekend so hope to see a whole lot more pictures going up soon. Went to the local car show at our convention center gave me a nice push to get more work done. I'm going to enter in the car show in a couple years.
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[Mr.Hyde]

Ok I'm gonna promise some pictures to lure you guys in here. But I found a 70 truck a guy is parting out now I can get the full front end and rear end for a 5 bolt swap can I just take the rear axles and front spindles with the hubs to do the conversion what else will I need I saw the conversion thread but I'm still unsure. Any help?
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[Rusbuilt]

To convert the front you will need the front spindles, rotors, calipers, brake hoses, 71-72 ball joints, and the inner and outer tie rods as well as the center link. As far as the rear goes I would get the entire rear end.

[Mr.Hyde]

Sounds good just needed to confirm this before I drop the 300 for all the parts
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[Rusbuilt]

Thats a little steep if you ask me. I wouldn't pay more than $225 unless all the front end parts are new! Or if the rear end has is a posi unit.

[Mr.Hyde]

Oh the thing I'm buying a bunch of smaller like door handle rear view mirror etc
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[Rusbuilt]

Oh ok.

[Mr.Hyde]

Appreciate the help, and clearly I shouldn't write on the forum while hopped up on cough medicine. Haha
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[mcbassin]

Looks like a real cool project you have going. I love the rust repair....J/K, I have had more than my fair share on my project. It just takes time and patients.
Oh and on the powertrain, sometimes you can find good deals on mid 90s roadmaster's and caprices, you can get the whole cars for 3-400. I put one in my son's 86 4 years ago and he drives it every day still. TBI roller 350 (5.7) good ole motors.

Keep up the good work.

[Xeen]

Hey man it looks like you got this bad boy headed in the right direction.
There are lots of good guys on this forum that will give you the right advice right when you need it so don't hessitate to ask, If you have any questions you aren't getting answers to send me a PM, there isn't much about these old trucks that I don't know and I'm happy to help.

[Mr.Hyde]

cool i really appreciate that, only i have some bad news and some good news! good news is my motor is pretty much ready to go! bad news is my 2005 gmc jimmy just died on me on the way back... well ill post those pics anyways maybe it will motivate me to get this truck done.

[Rusbuilt]

Man I hate to hear that about your jimmy.

[Mr.Hyde]

ya im in a pretty ****ty mood, so i might just ride the motorcycle all summer rain or shine. or im buying something fairly new hopefully you guys enjoyed the pics

[Mr.Hyde]

Anyone have pictures of these support posts from the tail end of the truck right by the gate, and a picture of the rear most cross beam. I have a lot of rust repair to do...
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[Mr.Hyde]

Gah really need help with that post rust please pictures!! And I'm just starting to the under coating on the inside of the truck bed. Should be interesting to see how it works. I'm just doing think coats the recommend a 1/4" but I'm just covering it fully. It's like painting tar.. Ill post some pictures later. I had to split the bed to beat out a huge dent.. So I figure might as well do the undercoating. And the jimmy is ready to be traded in for a full sized 07 silverado I figure that will help with getting parts back and forth and out of any field I need it too.
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[Mr.Hyde]

so just a quick update, i bought a sierra ltz and its a damn fine truck but i need to start concentrating on the c10 again. i bought al my sheet metal today and have a lot of work ahead of me and was wonder where to start?

Cab corners
Rocker panels inner and outter
Front cab floor supports
Rear cab floor support brace
Rear cab floor corners

any help would be appreciated, current the way the cab is sitting is on a dolly with it laying on its back. I have no cab mounting kit because im still waiting on that and the rear floor brace but i can wait if it means doing it right.

[Mr.Hyde]

ok so its about time for some pictures ive started work on the cab and its the one part that makes me nervous but i just jumped in feet first


Heres the info plates



And here is the Cab so far


and i picked up a 21gallon compressor and tools for 200$ im never going to want to go back to electric tools

[Xeen]

I just caught back up on your build.
You seemed unsure about metal work so I will offer up some general advice I have learned about metal repair, if you know some of this then great, take what you need.

Always cut out the minimum necessary to get rid of the rust, but get rid of it entirely, I can't stress strongly enough how important it is to get rid of rust, never install new metal over rusted metal, always eliminate all rust damage, this includes metal that has thinned out from rust.

Stay away from body lines unless it isn't possible but if you must then take extra time to ensure that the patch lines up absolutely perfect.

Always butt weld patch panels, never overlay or underlay them.

A stud welding gun and a slide hammer will be your best friend for removing dents and dings.

After welding in a patch if you have access always treat the back side of the welded area so that it doesn't rerust from the back side, several coats of Krylon Rust Tough is excellent for that, apply it directly to the metal.

If you don't have access to a sand blaster then a 4.5" polycarbide disk is your best friend, always keep the disk as flat and level as possible, here is a link. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...eel-94017.html
What you can't get with a polycarbide disk you can usually get with a wire wheel, you will need various different sizes.

When welding in a patch keep in mind that the metal is thin and heat is your enemy so you will want to stay away from running a bead when ever possible the dot, dot, dot, dot method is recommended, tack in the patch solid then alternate areas don't just run a bunch of dots in a row or too much heat will build up and warp the area.
Some guys use a thick damp rag to help draw heat away, you can also use compressed air to cool the metal between dots, this will take a long time but the results are worth it, don't get in a hurry or you will regret it.
Once you are done welding it all the way around then use a flap disk to level it off, you can get flap disks in various different grits.
If after removing the excess material you have pitting then you can go back and hit it again with the welder to fill it in because you want it completely solid.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in...isc-69602.html

There are welding tools you can use to help you align metal and keep it in place before you lay down your first tacks, one tool is a magnet that are commonly in the shape of a triangle or arrow, you can get them in various sizes from small to large.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...ers-93898.html
Another tool is butt welding clamps when you have access to the back side of the area you are welding.
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece...mps-44751.html

Remember to always take your time and be patient, rushing metal work will yield less than desirable results.
This is all I have time for today, I hope this is helpfull.
Hopefully some of the guys will jump in and offer up some more helpfull tips and tricks.

[Mr.Hyde]

I appreciate the advice, I've had my but weld clamps and some small sheet metal clamps to work with so far seems like either the larger panel ill need more and as for using a wet rag I find that it leaves you with a porous weld so ill probably rely on the air. As for tacking the panel I typically alternate in a star pattern to keep my heat to a minimum in one spot. I know all to well from college that sheet metal likes to pull and warp. I've been using surface reconditioning disks from 3m and picklex as a treatment
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[Mr.Hyde]

This weekend I'm arranging a 4 man lift to get the cab on the frame hopefully I will have some extra time to strip the cab a bit more to lighten the load. I have a mechanic buddy coming by to give me advice on what I should do for suspension and a transmission find a good potential donor vehicle.
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[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hyde

This weekend I'm arranging a 4 man lift to get the cab on the frame hopefully I will have some extra time to strip the cab a bit more to lighten the load. I have a mechanic buddy coming by to give me advice on what I should do for suspension and a transmission find a good potential donor vehicle.
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I can help you out with that.
What ride characteristics are you after?
Do you want overdrive?
Talk to me about other mechanical ideas you have.

[Mr.Hyde]

Well since it's a long bed I kinda wanted to go low down street truck with 4 disc brake not too sure if I need to do anything to the differential. I'm using a 283 with 305 head and 327 cam. I was thinking of pullin a 4 or 5 speed from an s10 but it seems if it's standard trans it's a 4x4 and doesn't seem like it would be all that strong. I know I want power steering.
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[Xeen]

Ok a little parts info before I get started talking about what upgrades you are going to need.
Classic Performance Products (CPP) has everything you will need to lower your truck and improve handling and braking at reasonable prices.

There are a couple different ways you can go about this you can Contact Jeff Norton (jeff@classicperform.com) or call him toll free (800-522-5004) at Classic Performance Products (CPP) you will get a 10% discount just tell him you are a member of 67-72chevytrucks.com.

You can also go through Justin at Scott's Hot Rods to save on CPP parts. Here is a thread to help you get in contact with him. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485760


Ok for the suspension and brakes I would buy the CPP Grand Slam Kit, part# 6772GSK-5D is their base kit but you can order it with different options, make sure you tell them how low you want to go (4.5/6 for example) and that you plan to use their rear disk kit as well so they can send you the right master cylinder and prop valve.

For the rear axle I would find a 71-85 5-lug and just swap it out.
Then purchase the CPP rear disk kit with E-brake, make sure you tell them which rear axle you have so they can send you the right kit.

You will also have to notch the frame, CPP part #6372CNK.

You will also need to buy a CPP adjustable trac bar, I recommend the deluxe bent bar kit, part #CP32021.

You will also need a rear shock relocation kit, CPP part #6372SRK.

You will also need a front shock reinforcement kit CPP part #6372FSRB or you can relocate them entirely with CPP part #6072FUSB.

You will also need a front sway bar, you can use either a GM 3/4 ton 1-1/8" or buy a CPP part #CP7423.

There is alot involved with dropping the truck so I may have missed something here but that's the majority of it.

[Mr.Hyde]

Cool and if I wanted to go junk yard hunting what would be my best bet for front disc conversion? And as for a drop the problem is, in Manitoba atleast. you can't modify the frame in anyway. I remember hearing if you are welder (which i am) and you build a Frame you can get it approved by an engineer for structural integrity I have to look into it. So the question is how low can I go safely without a c-notch? Most of the mechanical is going to take place after I get a safety inspection done. I think what I'm aiming for is that classic hot rodding experience where I have to go digging for parts too. But that doesn't mean new brakes are bad haha I still may go that route
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[Xeen]

Front disk conversion is easy, you get the entire front suspension/brakes/steering/crossmember out of a 1971-72 Chevy or GMC long bed then bolt it onto your truck.
You can also grab the power steering box, pitman arm, tilt column, steering shaft and rear axle while you are at it.
Basically you need to strip a fairly complete 1971-72 long bed with good options for parts.
You can drop the truck 2/4 and still be able to align the front end on stock spindles.