Project "Booger"

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Oh, believe it, he's human. The term you're looking for is idiot savant.

If your factory paint is in good shape and not rusty, it's the best base you can get. Scuff with red scotchbrite and blast away. If you need to cover good spots of bare metal, scratch the metal with 150 and use SEM etch prime in a spray bomb from the paint store.

SEM Paints (SEM39683) Self Etching Primer - Gray:Amazon:Home Improvement

Blend this just a tad into your good paint, scotchbrite it all and blasto! Good move on the D blocks. I like 'em. If you do doors and bedsides, tape a good straight chunk of 2x4 to the top. Use your smushed fender for shooting practice. Shoot around all your edges first, then the main area, top to bottom, with 50% overlap. No problem.

Thanks again for the props! Anything you wanna know, ask away. Also, look up mrhino's threads, silver dollar and crusader. He does stellar work out of his house.
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Originally Posted by Low Elco

Oh, believe it, he's human. The term you're looking for is idiot savant.

If your factory paint is in good shape and not rusty, it's the best base you can get. Scuff with red scotchbrite and blast away. If you need to cover good spots of bare metal, scratch the metal with 150 and use SEM etch prime in a spray bomb from the paint store.

SEM Paints (SEM39683) Self Etching Primer - Gray:Amazon:Home Improvement

Blend this just a tad into your good paint, scotchbrite it all and blasto! Good move on the D blocks. I like 'em. If you do doors and bedsides, tape a good straight chunk of 2x4 to the top. Use your smushed fender for shooting practice. Shoot around all your edges first, then the main area, top to bottom, with 50% overlap. No problem.

Thanks again for the props! Anything you wanna know, ask away. Also, look up mrhino's threads, silver dollar and crusader. He does stellar work out of his house.
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Originally Posted by Low Elco

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See? This is what I'm talking about.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Ah, durnit! I missed this-

Go to the car paint store and get a gun regulator and a disposable air line filter for your gun. The regulator makes changes on the fly a lot easier, and the filter will save your butt.
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Thanks for all the great tips! So etch primer from a rattle can on bare metal spots what about over any body filler? I've got a bunch of holes to weld up and skim. My understanding is body filler on bare metal but what primer over that? Havent found an autobody supply place in Tucson yet. Seems there is a few but being a total novice at this I hope to find place that will hold my hand

Im definitely bookmarking your response here to refer to when I do go shopping for body supplies. Thanks again!

[americanthunder]

Have had a hellacious week at work so not much has been getting done. Did manage to get some of the accessory brackets off the old motor. One for the a/c compressor doesnt fit due my intake manifold choice. Gonna require some modifications. Spent almost 3 hours cleaning up the power steering brackets once I figured out what was grease and what was an actual bracket!

Got the crank pulleys off and cleaned up as good as they'll get. Hope to shoot a little paint on the brackets and get them on the engine this week.

The UPS guy did leave a present at my house yesterday:



Its a little Hobart 130 but I should do what I need it to for this project. Now to sharpen my welding skills.

Been staring at the hole where the CB antenna was...Any suggestions on how to fill that? Square it up and cut a fill piece then weld in place? Cant get at it from inside the cab.

[jlsanborn]

Nice! I love my Hobart. Making the patches is pretty straight forward. You could square the hole out if you liked but you could also just make a round patch. Get the welder adjusted right on a test piece first then just zap, zap, zap around your patch. You might even try making a hole and patching that on your old fender first. I like to set mine on the hot side with plenty of wire speed. That way you can make a quick, hot zap. Go slow so you don't get your panel too hot. Zap, zap, pause, zap, zap..... You'll get it figured out in no time. You got an auto-darkening helmet right?

Get a flapper wheel for your grinder too. When you're done welding use the rock to knock it down about flush then use the flapper to really smooth it out.

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Nice! I love my Hobart. Making the patches is pretty straight forward. You could square the hole out if you liked but you could also just make a round patch. Get the welder adjusted right on a test piece first then just zap, zap, zap around your patch. You might even try making a hole and patching that on your old fender first. I like to set mine on the hot side with plenty of wire speed. That way you can make a quick, hot zap. Go slow so you don't get your panel too hot. Zap, zap, pause, zap, zap..... You'll get it figured out in no time. You got an auto-darkening helmet right?

Get a flapper wheel for your grinder too. When you're done welding use the rock to knock it down about flush then use the flapper to really smooth it out.

Yeah it seems like a nice little wire feed. What settings do you use on yours? I actually had an auto darkening helmet I use with my arc welder. Gonna do alot of practicing on the old sheet metal before I tear into the finished product. Thanks for the tip on the flapper wheel

[oilyrag80]

I go to Adams auto body at prince and i10 its a little hole in the wall but great guys and good prices.
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[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by oilyrag80

I go to Adams auto body at prince and i10 its a little hole in the wall but great guys and good prices.
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Thanks man I appreciate all the local info you've given me everyones been great and its appreciated! Off topic...What app are you using for this forum?

[oilyrag80]

I just use the browser on my phone as far as i know there is no app
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[jlsanborn]

I've been doing my sheetmetal patches on #2 with wire speed a little under 50%. I'm running a 0.032" solid wire with an argonne blend tho. It'll probably be different with flux core.

[Low Elco]

For sheetmetal, use ESAB.023 easy grind and 75/25 argon/co2. Makes it nice, without a lot of warpage.
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[Low Elco]

Here's how I did it-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=501131&page=2
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[jlsanborn]

I'm anxious to try that easy grind wire!

[Low Elco]

Ha, me too! I'm running .023, but it ain't easy grind!
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[americanthunder]

Just wanted to drop in and update the thread but there isnt much to update. Seems the bug my boy had caught me and I was down for the count on Fri/Sat/Sun. I did manage to get all my accessory brackets blasted and painted over the weekend so I made progress? Yesterday I installed the previously mentioned brackets, water pump, and flexplate. I went to install the torque converter so I could mate the engine and trans and realized I didnt have any trans fluid which I swore I picked up already..Oh well this week I should make some progress! Hope everyones having a great week!

[Low Elco]

Ok, my system:
1. Repair rust
2. Bare metal all bad stuff.
3. If straight to paint, etch prime. If getting worked or anything else, system compatible epoxy primer.

4. Skim filler to taste with 80 on a block. Leave it a tad high. Don't take the last stroke! Believe me on this.

5. Slick sand/Featherfill G2 2 coats. 80 the first round, then recaot and 150 on a block with guide coat. always use a block. The 3m rub on guide stuff is expensive, but great. Do this till it's flat in a few strokes.

6. Re-shoot and block with 320.

7. wet-sand on a block with 400. Scuff in edges/corners with Scotchbrite.

8. Paint all interior stuff and jambs.

9. Loosely assemble truck. Gap doors.

10. Mask and paint all exterior at the same time if possible.

11. Bask in glory and female adoration. Drink beer. Sit on tailgate. Enjoy.

Disclaimer: I probably left something important out. There is a more in depth guide in Sanborn's thread, somewhere in the middle.

PS- glad you're over the flu!

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Ok, my system:
1. Repair rust
2. Bare metal all bad stuff.
3. If straight to paint, etch prime. If getting worked or anything else, system compatible epoxy primer.

4. Skim filler to taste with 80 on a block. Leave it a tad high. Don't take the last stroke! Believe me on this.

5. Slick sand/Featherfill G2 2 coats. 80 the first round, then recaot and 150 on a block with guide coat. always use a block. The 3m rub on guide stuff is expensive, but great. Do this till it's flat in a few strokes.

6. Re-shoot and block with 320.

7. wet-sand on a block with 400. Scuff in edges/corners with Scotchbrite.

8. Paint all interior stuff and jambs.

9. Loosely assemble truck. Gap doors.

10. Mask and paint all exterior at the same time if possible.

11. Bask in glory and female adoration. Drink beer. Sit on tailgate. Enjoy.

Disclaimer: I probably left something important out. There is a more in depth guide in Sanborn's thread, somewhere in the middle.

PS- glad you're over the flu!

Thank you sir thats exactly what I was looking for...especially number 11!

[americanthunder]

Mid Week Update:

Ok the engine/trans is "just about" ready to toss in because I still forgot to pick up a harmonic balancer!


Last night I started to tear into figuring out why old boogs brakes arent working so well. I knew the rear passenger wheel cylinder was shot because I couldnt bleed that corner but when I took the drum off to replace the wheel cylinder and it appears to be missing several things. First dont these have automatic adjusters? I see the adjuster but shouldnt there be a self adjuster arm? Second the parking brake lever was just loose inside. The spring on the strut was in three pieces and it was only contacting the front pad and the parking brake arm? It appears someone was inside here at some point and failed miserably. Here are some pics:







Im gonna hit napa after work today and try and figure out what parts Im missing. Any drum brake experts on here PLEASE chime in and direct me to what parts I need to get these things rebuilt and working. Thank you in advance!

[americanthunder]

Rear Brakes are done and actually work Now onto the fronts..Thought I would just get the front ones rebuilt but now Im back to the old "should I convert to disk brakes?"

[americanthunder]

Got the fronts apart last night...They seem to be missing the self adjuster arm too..Guess I am finding out why the brakes didnt work? Pads and drums in alot better condition then the back ones though. Thinking if I stick with drums I'll just have them turned, new set of pads and get the adjuster hardware after cleaning everything up.

[Low Elco]

Wow, that's impressively bad brake work! Glad you got it straightened out. Remember, "Big On Back!"

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by americanthunder

Rear Brakes are done and actually work Now onto the fronts..Thought I would just get the front ones rebuilt but now Im back to the old "should I convert to disk brakes?"

In the long hawl, you would be better off to convert to disk brakes in the front. I went to the bone yard and found a 72 truck and took the front and rear end and put in on my 67 frame. I am glad I did. Yes it cost more but when you do a brake job it is a lot faster and it will stop a lot better. that Is mu opion

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Wow, that's impressively bad brake work! Glad you got it straightened out. Remember, "Big On Back!"

big on back...big on back....big on back....Then my son says didn't you say big on front? S**T! Back to the instructions...This link is awsome by the way http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake.

Got the fronts done...Ended up just buying everything new. Cost was under a hundered bucks so I said the hell with it. Probably end up converting to disk later on but for now at least I know I have brakes

Time to wash the hands and hit the rack...

[oilyrag80]

Hey Shon just want to say thanks again for hooking me up with your old motor I took it apart and it looks better alot better than the other one.
And your truck looks great in person proably one of the cleanest cabs i've ever seen almost zero rust!

[67c10rustbuket]

You are kickin some butt on Booger, I love the mock up engine. Wish I could find a cardboard engine.

[jlsanborn]

Nice work on the brakes. Hardware kits are chump-change when you've got a wreck like that. Amazing that people would stumble through a brake job, knowing it prolly ain't right and still run it down the road.

[americanthunder]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

You are kickin some butt on Booger, I love the mock up engine. Wish I could find a cardboard engine.

When I get the engine installed you can have mine...Shouldn't be too much to ship and empty box

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Nice work on the brakes. Hardware kits are chump-change when you've got a wreck like that. Amazing that people would stumble through a brake job, knowing it prolly ain't right and still run it down the road.

Yeah I really don't know how someone could have done that brake job this truck had and comfortably cruise down the road. Definitely not me!

Originally Posted by oilyrag80

Hey Shon just want to say thanks again for hooking me up with your old motor I took it apart and it looks better alot better than the other one.
And your truck looks great in person proably one of the cleanest cabs i've ever seen almost zero rust!

Hey James thats good news! I spent the day working on that cab yesterday and can't move my arms this morning...still seems like an awful lot of work to me!