Pre-LS swap questions

[Root2812]

So I have some minor updates and a few questions I hope you guys can help me with. I still haven't fired up my 5.3 but I decided to just do a rebuild on it anyway. It has 180,000 miles and I hate leaks so I was going to change all the gaskets and seals but since I am in there I might as well do bearings and rings. Then since its all apart I might as well send it to the machine shop for a quick hone and hot tank. Its amazing how things snowball on you. Aside from that I'm just about finished with the chassis and the engine and tranny are mounted. I also got a S&P MAF/air filter from a ls1tech board member for $220 that was never used and is the chrome one so I am happy about that. He said he spent $600 on it. I had only looked at the non-chrome one and that would have been over $300 so I got a good deal.

If you remember back a while, I had gotten an LS6 intake that came broken but was replaced so I had the broken one for free. I decided to try and fix it. I know the Nylon66 is a bastard and is nearly impossible to bond to with anything so I contacted a company that specializes in plastics and plastics epoxy. They had an epoxy made for thermoplastics (Nylon 66 is one) so I paid $30 for a tube to try. That stuff is stronger than I had ever imagined and it looks like it worked. I'll give you guys a more detailed write up after I test it out. Hell, if I can fix it for $30 and sell the other one I come out a head.

I'm also starting on my harness and I got in contact with Branden at LT1swap.com for my PCM flash.

So here are my questions. Since I am swapping the LS6 intake on to a 5.3 should I use the MAP that came from the truck or from the car intake? I have both, one is the black label and the other is blue.

Anyone know a good source for the injector pigtails for the LS6 injectors? Those are EV1 right? and the truck is EV6? or is it the other way around?

thanks

[Root2812]

No one has any help for my on injector pig tails?

Anyway, This weekend I opened up my 5.3 and found water and rust in the cylinders. Looks like a trip to the machine shop. I was going to send it in anyway for a hone and a hot tank but now it looks like I need to do a bit more. Other than that I finished up the chassis fab work and got it sent off for sand blasting.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Root2812

So I have some minor updates and a few questions I hope you guys can help me with. I still haven't fired up my 5.3 but I decided to just do a rebuild on it anyway. It has 180,000 miles and I hate leaks so I was going to change all the gaskets and seals but since I am in there I might as well do bearings and rings. Then since its all apart I might as well send it to the machine shop for a quick hone and hot tank. Its amazing how things snowball on you. Aside from that I'm just about finished with the chassis and the engine and tranny are mounted. I also got a S&P MAF/air filter from a ls1tech board member for $220 that was never used and is the chrome one so I am happy about that. He said he spent $600 on it. I had only looked at the non-chrome one and that would have been over $300 so I got a good deal.

If you remember back a while, I had gotten an LS6 intake that came broken but was replaced so I had the broken one for free. I decided to try and fix it. I know the Nylon66 is a bastard and is nearly impossible to bond to with anything so I contacted a company that specializes in plastics and plastics epoxy. They had an epoxy made for thermoplastics (Nylon 66 is one) so I paid $30 for a tube to try. That stuff is stronger than I had ever imagined and it looks like it worked. I'll give you guys a more detailed write up after I test it out. Hell, if I can fix it for $30 and sell the other one I come out a head.

I'm also starting on my harness and I got in contact with Branden at LT1swap.com for my PCM flash.

So here are my questions. Since I am swapping the LS6 intake on to a 5.3 should I use the MAP that came from the truck or from the car intake? I have both, one is the black label and the other is blue.

Anyone know a good source for the injector pigtails for the LS6 injectors? Those are EV1 right? and the truck is EV6? or is it the other way around?

thanks

Any more info on the Epoxy for Nylon 66?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Since I am swapping the LS6 intake on to a 5.3 should I use the MAP that came from the truck or from the car intake?

In my opinion, the decision boils down to which OS you're going to use in your PCM. I'm assuming truck, so I'd go with the truck sensor. IIRC, you'll have to remove one of the "ears" on the truck sensor to get it to physically fit into the car intake.

Originally Posted by Root2812

Anyone know a good source for the injector pigtails for the LS6 injectors? Those are EV1 right? and the truck is EV6? or is it the other way around?

Yes, the LS1/6 car injectors are EV1 connectors. The ACDelco EV1 pigtail is part number PT113. Rockauto has them on closeout right now for $2.92 each. They're usually more than $12.

If you're really hard core, I can get you the number for the connector housing and pins. That's the cheapest way to go from a parts perspective, but you have to have the correct crimping tool which isn't so cheap.

Lastly, there are adapters that plug into the truck haress on one side and the car injector on the other. They'll be the easiest to install but the most $.

[BR3W CITY]

You can also just walk into a boneyard with a Snips and take a set off of a Mustang, or two sets off a focus, etc etc. TONS of cars used EV1's. Bring one good injector with you, make sure it fits the clip, snip off 3-4 inches past the plug, and your good to go.

I did this when swapping to 42lb injectors on my build.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Any more info on the Epoxy for Nylon 66?

I should post the pictures that I have on my phone. The epoxy worked better than expected. What its going to come down to is if I was able to sand it smooth enough to get a good seal at the o-ring. Since I ran into trouble with my engine it will be longer until I can test it out. I'll post up the details from the stuff for you too. Once I get to test the intake and determine if my repair works I'll put together a how-to or something.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by dayj1

In my opinion, the decision boils down to which OS you're going to use in your PCM. I'm assuming truck, so I'd go with the truck sensor. IIRC, you'll have to remove one of the "ears" on the truck sensor to get it to physically fit into the car intake.



Yes, the LS1/6 car injectors are EV1 connectors. The ACDelco EV1 pigtail is part number PT113. Rockauto has them on closeout right now for $2.92 each. They're usually more than $12.

If you're really hard core, I can get you the number for the connector housing and pins. That's the cheapest way to go from a parts perspective, but you have to have the correct crimping tool which isn't so cheap.

Lastly, there are adapters that plug into the truck haress on one side and the car injector on the other. They'll be the easiest to install but the most $.

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

You can also just walk into a boneyard with a Snips and take a set off of a Mustang, or two sets off a focus, etc etc. TONS of cars used EV1's. Bring one good injector with you, make sure it fits the clip, snip off 3-4 inches past the plug, and your good to go.

I did this when swapping to 42lb injectors on my build.

Dayj1, Thanks for the MAP info. I had Brendon at lt1swap do my tune and he told me the MAP shouldn't matter so I'll just run the truck one like you said and then try the car one and see if there is any difference.

Dayj1 & Brewcity, thanks for the injector info. Someone on LS1tech told me that I needed EV6 injector connectors so that's why I was getting so confused. I think I'll try ordering some new pig tails off of ebay this week. With work the way it is its easier to order some than try and get to a junk yard before it closes. Do you guys recommend any specific fuse box or relays for the swap harness? I'm still stripping things down but I hope to be getting it back together soon.

[BR3W CITY]

I had a harness built for me (engine side) and it came with the relays and its own little fusebox. I like that it was much smaller, and cleaned up the look alot for where my box has to be mounted (directly on the inner fenderwell, everything is directly accessible).

In some cases, I'd also consider what we did on the body side. You end up pulling out so many engine wires, that the old body harness starts to look "hollow"...since you've cut some of the wires, looms etc. In my case, the body wiring had been modified before, a common story. This means random radio wires, splices-on-splices, and colors going everywhere.
We decided that it was worth it just to gut the thing, and re-wire the hole truck ground up. It sounds daunting, and we had the help of an industrial wiring rack and a 35year master wiring tech.....but that actually makes it sound worse. With a simple approach, anyone can do it. We simplified the whole thing, and allowed room for our new gauges, stereo etc. It all went to a simple 12-slot fuse block, mounted on the firewall in the cab. Makes troubleshooting easier, and my wiring diagram is a simple printout from PhotoShop.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by dayj1

In my opinion, the decision boils down to which OS you're going to use in your PCM. I'm assuming truck, so I'd go with the truck sensor. IIRC, you'll have to remove one of the "ears" on the truck sensor to get it to physically fit into the car intake.

You can use either MAP sensor, just make sure the parameters for the one you are using are correct within the tune. If you use the truck OS, then they should be correct (which is what dayj1 is referring to). I would still double check to be sure...

Also, they make EV1 to EV6 adapter pigtails.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Any more info on the Epoxy for Nylon 66?

Here is my update. So I went to a plastics company and got an epoxy that is designed to work with thermoplastics (nylon 66). I have $0 in this LS6 intake so I tossed $30 at the epoxy just to try it and so far I am impressed. This stuff cures hard and I couldn't get it to come off of the plastic once its on there. I am 100% confident that this stiff can fix an intake. The repair is going to come down to my ability to get the opening round and smooth so the oring can seal. My engine build won't be ready to run for a while so I won't have any official results until the end of the summer. I also need to paint the intake to cover up the repair. Here are the pics.

Broken Parts



First things was to wash the filthy parts. Then I used the Plexus MA310 thermoplastic epoxy to fix the broken nipple for the vacuum. It was broke off and split so I repaired it and then sanded it smooth with some flexable sand paper left over from a plumbing job.



Then I had to repair the intake by fixing the split circle and then dropping it in the front of the intake so it would fall to the rear and could be attached. The key here is to use a dremmel to smooth out the jagged edges so you can get things to settle into place.


Then sand smooth



So I am going to paint it next, then reinsert the MAP port, and then test it out. this fall when I have some concrete results I will write up a how to or something.

[Root2812]

Figured I'd share some pics since I didn't have any earlier. Not much to show but things are going to start happening now. The chassis is disassembled and at the blaster and now I'm rebuilding my engine since I found rust in the cylinders.

Here is the bare frame. Its hanging off the lift to make the finish welding on the bottom easy.


And here is my motor. I pulled the head off and found an inch and a half of water in the #6 cylinder because the guy who sold it to me left it outside for a while. I got it really cheap and now I can build it up like new.


And since there are boring pics I figured I'd share a taste of things to come. My next LS swap will be on this 67 GTO convertible. Its been my dads since the early 80's and it just hasn't done anything other than be a shelf for 30 years. We plan to keep the stock transmission so that the His/Her shifter can be kept but then drop a 6.0L in it. The stock motor is gone so LS it is. We unburied it since this pic was taken.


I'm in a picture uploading mood so here is a pic of my truck working. I am building my LS powered chassis to swap this body on to but for now I'm using it in its stock form. Max speed of 55mph with the pedal to the floor! I took it to the landfill to drop off some stuff.


Stay tuned, I'm close to done with the chassis and wiring for the engine. Then the engine build and hopefully the first fire up before my baby comes in August.

[solidaxel]

Thanks for the step by step, and the product info.

[littlevictories]

glad you found the water before firing it.

a hone job on these blocks will amaze you. I just got a 200K+ mile block back from the shop with a 400/200 hone and it looks (and mics) awesome.

down side to that of course is an actual bore-over will cost you an arm and a leg. my guy quoted "double" and I didn't even ask.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by littlevictories

glad you found the water before firing it.

a hone job on these blocks will amaze you. I just got a 200K+ mile block back from the shop with a 400/200 hone and it looks (and mics) awesome.

down side to that of course is an actual bore-over will cost you an arm and a leg. my guy quoted "double" and I didn't even ask.

I think if I have to go as far as boreing the engine I'll go buy a new engine. I'm hoping just a hone will do the truck. I guess I won't know for a while. How much did your hone cost? When you put it back together did you get to reuse your stock pistons? This is all new to me but what is a 400/200 hone?

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Thanks for the step by step, and the product info.

This is where I got it from.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24934

This talks about the product and had good info. PDF page 31 document page 177 is one place. Its been a few weeks since I read it.
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf

[littlevictories]

oops i misread the receipt. they started with a 280 grit hone and finish with a 400 grit over the top of that. Cost: $90. total for hot tank, hone, cam bearings $275 plus change.

[Root2812]

Back again.. So I have a few more questions about the wiring. what gauge wire are you guys using to go from your battery to your stand alone fuse block? Then what amp fuses are you running for different systems?

[littlevictories]

mostly 16 awg, with 12 awg to and from the power side of the high current relays (fans, starter)

basically copied this, with some added stuff
http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

[littlevictories]

keep us posted on that goat. missing my mid 60's a-body more every day ('64 olds 442)

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by littlevictories

keep us posted on that goat. missing my mid 60's a-body more every day ('64 olds 442)

Will do. I'll either do an Alternate Tinkerings thread or just keep a link to another forum in my signature.

[Root2812]

Small update. I was going to run the truck accessory drive because of cost. the F-body or corvette stuff was too expensive after you buy the PS pump and everything else. Well a local auction came and I scored a box for $45. In side this box was a complete LS2 accessory drive from a 2006 GTO, the fuel rail covers, oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and some other stuff. Ill save some for the 1967 GTO LS engine swap and sell some but that accessory drive is going on my truck. Its the same spacing as the F-body stuff so now I'll have the clearance I need. I'm excited to get all that for cheap.

I also got my fuel tank from Brothers truck parts today. My frame is still at the sand blasters and my uncle is going to build my motor for me. Hopefully it will be running by Christmas.

[Root2812]

Progress has been slow but I'm back on track. 7 weeks ago I had my first child. My little girl has been great but it took a while to be able to get up north to work on my project.

For those of you just joining... I have been building an extra chassis so that my truck didn't have to be torn apart as long and I'll just swap the body later.

Anyhow, I loaded up my truck to head up north because my modified chassis had just came back from the sand blasters. My daily driver (a 2000 GMC jimmy) barely had the balls to haul the truck/trailer but it got the job done. Unfortunately I got a flat on my 1950 chevy and had no spare. I have one of those 2 wheel tow dollys so it took two hours to swap a tire from the front to the back and put the flat on the front. Here are some pics of my misery.






We finally made it and I got to start painting the frame and rear end. I have some more parts to paint next time I go up there again but I'm happy with the progress so far. Once I paint the suspension parts I can bolt them back on. My motor is currently getting built so I am happy with where I am at. Here are some pics of the frame. (I used KBC coating its similar to POR15)




Yes I am missing some running board brackets but I'll snag those off my other frame.


Moving on.. My Jimmy started to crap out on me so I finally bit the bullet and got some LS power. On Monday I went and purchased a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab 4x4. Wow what an amazing truck. I was nervous to buy a $47,000 truck but in the end its just an amazing vehicle. I like having room for my family and dogs. The forest green metallic is a pretty color but the pictures don't do it justice because its cloudy. I really like the Gen5 L83 engine.

[oldman3]

Root, sometimes the big adventures really add to the story of a build. Frame looks good, nice looking truck...Jim

[solidaxel]

Buying a extra frame is the only way to go!

I did that with the green 53 and when the truck was completed we had so many extra parts left over that it prompted a build of another truck, the extended cab!!

[Root2812]

I'm really glad I had two frames. If one of the bodies hadn't been unsaveable I might be doing another too.