68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel

[marvgarr68]

Thanks I got the back window in but that's it. Looks like we are getting snow today. To cold.

[marvgarr68]

Here are some update pics. All windows except windshield are in and tinted. Interior is coming together.

[whitedog76]

I like your style. Most folks list the GM diesels in the same category as a boat anchor.

I had a 6.2 in a K10, loved it. The 700R4 didn't like it too much.

My old mans K30 had clutch problems with the 6.2 and SM465. Of course, we abused the heck out of it. I hope your T5 holds up better

[marvgarr68]

Thanks. The t5 will survive as long as it isn't abused. They are great motors if they are cared for.

[68post]

6.2's NA and 6.5's turbo'd are really great engines - especially for their price. The best mileage you'll ever get in a truck will be with a 6.2 NA !!

If you have a stick you'll have to shift much sooner than you're used to because if you hold it in gear as long as a gas engine the mileage goes down (ask me how I know ! From 10 mpg up to 15 mpg , 3500HD @ 10,200 lbs unloaded - combined city & hwy )

Love your truck ( '68 - my 1st ), and the choice of power too !!

[gheynderickx]

look'n good!

[marvgarr68]

Thanks just about ready to start working on it again. I finally found a original windshield for it not a repro one. I will send it to the tinter tomorrow and install it Tue.

[marvgarr68]

Well I have started working on it again. I also changed it up a little. I'm going full electronic injection on it. I already had the electronic IP and all the sensors. I cut a wiring harness out of a 94 6.5 truck. I then sorted through all the wiring this took time labeled all of it. I got the ECU from a 94 truck also. I made a glove box out of diamond plate aluminum and mounted the ECU in there. I also mounted the auxiliary fuse blocks and relays and also the diagnostic plug. I cut the harness down soldered all connections and shrink wrapped them. I got a military 50 pin circular socket and plug and mounted it on the firewall. There is a guy that makes up to a 6 position chip for the 6.5 this is what I'm going with. I will have cruise control, idle up control, and greater reliability. This way the IP isn't maxed all the time which is hard on it. Here are some pics.

[68post]

What brand of pump driver will you use, and where are you going to mount it ? (I ask because I did have a 2000 3500HD with a 6.5). Will you always use pump diesel in it, ( going to cut it with any lubricant ?) ?

[marvgarr68]

Will have a Stanadyne pmd mounted on the core support on the drivers side right were the old alt voltage regulator was. Diesel will be cut with 2 stroke oil.

[marvgarr68]

Here are the pics of the accel pedal mounting. I had to lengthen it about 2 inches up.

[marvgarr68]

Here are some new pics. My new HD heads also hybrid turbo. The turbo is a hx35 with a h1c 18cm exhaust housing. I also redid the fuel filter/manager I cut off the little fittings and re drilled the housing and tapped it for 1/4 npt. I also made a delete plate for the fuel heater at the bottom. The pistons are getting cut now head studs will be here tomorrow.

[marvgarr68]

Here is the heads.

[marvgarr68]

Here is the pics of the ECM and The PMD all of the wiring is done inside.

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by marvgarr68

Will have a Stanadyne pmd mounted on the core support on the drivers side right were the old alt voltage regulator was. Diesel will be cut with 2 stroke oil.

Originally Posted by marvgarr68

Here is the pics of the ECM and The PMD all of the wiring is done inside.

I can see in the pictures that you have a heat sink on the back of the glovebox where you have the PMD. I believe that your original location would be a better choice for the PMD. you will also need a conductive gasket or gasket paste. The PMD will cook itself in a matter of minutes without the propper cooling. I'm not saying that it won't get enough cooling where it is located in the glove box, it should with the proper conductive contact, but you will definitely feel the heat! Your ECM may suffer from that much heat too.

tell me a little more about the heads you have? Are the GEP? I have a collection of dead 6.5l heads in my garage right now and need something reliable for my truck!

[marvgarr68]

Looks are deceiving. The PMD is mounted straight to the heat sink with the thermal gasket between them. The glove box is cut out the same size as the PMD. I drilled and tapped the heat sink for the PMD bolts. I then drilled and tapped the outer perimeter for mounting bolts. If you look around the PMD you will see 4 bolts this is what's mounts the heat sink to the glove box then the PMD is mounted to the heat sink. The heat sink is bigger then the PMD. I also mounted it inside the cab due to stop and go and heat soak from being parked as it gets*hot*here. I might add a fan later if I think it is to hot. The heads are from Odessa Cylinder heads in Florida. Nice people 600.00 shipped all new assembled heads. These are the heavy castings with more meat and are definitely heavier.

[jbclassix]

Is that 600 for both? I was quoted 250/ea to have my heads rebuilt!

I hear you about the heat. It hit 100 here by noon and doesnt drop below 100 until around 8. I have my PMD on a FSD cooler brand heat sink mounted to my intake currently. On my 96 it was on the same heatsink over by the left fender. I don't like the heatsink on the intake so much. Once I have the extension harness I will be relocating it to a cooler area for sure. I have even thought about machining a multi-pass liquid cooled heat sink similar to ECM coolers.

Are you going to run AC?

[marvgarr68]

600.00 for both shipped. They are on eBay you can call them also. These have the diamond pre cups also. I will be running ac in the future. I believe it being in the cab will be cooler then under the hood. The cowl vent is right there so air passes over the heat sink.

[marvgarr68]

I got the pistons cut down .040 for 18-1 comp. I got ARP head studs and Mahle piston rings. I was going to have a shop ceramic coat the pistons but the shop is in Vegas and they want them for 5 days. I am not leaving my pistons for 5 days. They were going to charge me 160.00 just to ceramic coat the tops. They wanted another 120.00 to do the skirt coating. All that plus the gas to drive up there and back twice. I got a tester bottle of Cerakote piston coating oven cure and a tester bottle of micro slick piston skirt coating. Both bottles shipped are 82.00. I blasted the tops and the skirts with 120 grit aluminum oxide. I then sprayed the piston coating on them and then baked them at 300 deg. They came out great. The skirts came out good also. The skirts are air dry no baking needed. I didn't think the tester bottles would be enough but I hardly used any of the stuff still have 3/4 full bottles left.

For the shop to do pistons
280.00 to coat them
120.00 in fuel to drive there twice
plus 5 days for them to get damaged or lost
total 400.00 roughly

To do them myself
82.00 for coating
10.00 for 120 grit aluminum oxide 2 lbs
12.00 for masking tape
used my bosses oven and blaster cabinet
total 104.00 roughly plus beer
here are some pics

[marvgarr68]

Here are the pics after coated.

[jbclassix]

Wanna do another set?

[marvgarr68]

Yea I have enough for another set.

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice work! It'll be nice to see how that coating holds up to some heat cycles and time. Your engine rebuild is looking great!

[marvgarr68]

I was sceptical at first until I saw an engine that had the pistons coated with the Cerakote. It had about 20,000 miles turboed beat to hell and the coating looked still new infact the pistons looked cleaner then I would have expected carbon doesn't stick to it.

[superduty_59]

Nice coating!