70 GMC 4wd version

[70stroker]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

The silver/black Chevy is nice, what style shocks are you going with, factory or something else.

Factory style, 4 inch lift shock to match the springs, waiting on my shock mounting tabs to come in the mail.

[70stroker]

Got some work done on rear disc setup. I know the rotor is on the wrong way i was just seeing how it fit. Also got the rearend under the frame.

Quick questions does anyone have any pics of the brakes line routing. Im looking to see how the brakes li rs run on a 12 bolt rearend, also the mater cylinder area and the lines from the master cylinder dkwn to where they connect on the frame.

[70stroker]

Well guys frame is mostly done and awaiting the body except one exception. I need a rear driveshaft, i cant find one anywhere. Ive been looking for a 241 equipped square body chevy longbed or burb to buy the shaft out of but no luck. Does anyone have a squarebody parts truck laying around?

[swamp rat]

Junk yards or aftermarket?

[70stroker]

No junkyards with old stuff anywhere within 175 miles from me, aftermarket is an option, priced them anywhere between 300 and 500, just would alike to not spend that much.

[70stroker]

Been working in it here and there. Gonna try and get cab off before winter hits to hard and i cant get buddies over in the cold.

The list before cab goes on.
exhaust, tailpipes and passenger side.
detent cable for 700r4
trans cooler lines
distributor gasket, cant forget it after it will be easier now then later.

Today i got the new diff cover on the 12 bolt, driver exhaust built back to muffler, and my lower shock mount welded on the rearend.

I also finally got argon co2 tank for my welder, before now it was just flux and k hated it, i always took things to work and welded them with our 220, well the exhaust and shock mounts woulda been hard to do that with. Much happier now.






Side shot of exhaust. I strongly dislike being able to see exhaust hang under the frame.

[mud.man.rj]

Nice well thought out clean build, I agree on the exhaust.

[mjensen]

The truck is coming along nicely! I like the exhaust routing. I may have to rethink...or maybe think....about mine.

[70stroker]

Got some done on the exhaust, got it far enough tonight so i can order the rest of my bends.













Also figured out what i was gonna do for exits and finished the driver side

[70stroker]

Got the front clip and bed off today, and tore apart interior to see what all i need.

Heres my garage now, filling up way to fast





Marked all holes to be filled with some green.

[70stroker]

Started working on rust repair today

[swamp rat]

First time i have seen this while leaving the door on, but if it works and the body lines match up well its all good.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

First time i have seen this while leaving the door on, but if it works and the body lines match up well its all good.

X2 Not easy repairs to make and looks like your really in it...

[70stroker]

I just threw the door back on while i test fitted the cab corner, it off again now

[70stroker]

[70stroker]

I really thought when i started this i was gonna completely redo the frame then just swap everything over, seeing as it was a running driving truck with all systems in working order.

Instead i had the might as well disease.

Heres a list of those things


Rear disc, which leads to new master and proportioning valve.
electric fan, needs wirinn harness, along with alternator upgrade
headlight relay mod, new lenses with h11 bulbs
new plug wires with seperators.
new body ground kit
new battery cables
optima battery
Was gonna just swap cab, well decided to fix all rust
doors and fendefs have some rot so gonna replace them.
which leads me to having to paint the whole thing, i am researching alternatives to actual spray jobs after my current house wont run my air compressor.

And this is longer im sure.

No real pointto this post other then forme to keep track of what im doing and have done.


Today i spent half of it running wires, headlight relays, move steering coloum 2 inches closer to firewall, sanded back of cab, measure for battery cables. So progress just no pics.

I am very excited to see the cabon the frame tho.


Thanks for looking

[70stroker]

O i do have one question, does anyone see issues with this valve cover clearence?

I already moved the engine forward 2 inches from factory.

I was thinking of a 1 inch body lift but not sure how i would go about raising front bumper after it rolls under the frame so it wouldnt just move straight up.

Any ideas, thoughts or concerns are appreciated

[mud.man.rj]

Well no ideas on body lift unless you can build a bracket to lift the bumper up slightly but would have to notch the bottom of the front of the frame because of it's design, nice progress on the truck, doing it better than just good takes extra time, but worth it. Only concern i see is the wiring so close to the exh manifold on the passenger side, may get hot eventually. Valve covers are close but the engine does move the other way so may not be a concern to the firewall.

[argonaut]

Use shallower stock type valve covers, move the engine further forward, or lift the cab. I guess you could modify the crossmember and mount brackets to lower the engine. Since you lifted the truck you shouldn't have issues with front axle clearing the oil pan.

[70stroker]

Originally Posted by argonaut

Use shallower stock type valve covers, move the engine further forward, or lift the cab. I guess you could modify the crossmember and mount brackets to lower the engine. Since you lifted the truck you shouldn't have issues with front axle clearing the oil pan.

Engine has roller rockers so cant go smaler valve covers. As off now i have about 1.5 inches between water pump and electric fan so thats an option.

I think there is adequate clearence but i dont know, i think body liftis easiest but hate the front bumper situation.

Its hard to believe this motor fit fine in 2wd configuration, yet it seems so close in 4wd fashion.

Thank you and mud man for your input, i appreciate it.

[argonaut]

That's because the 2wd bbc mount brackets place the motor about 2-1/2 to 3" further forward. 4wd never came with a big block and all small blocks were further back for better weight distribution.

[mud.man.rj]

I don't really see the problem, so it is close but not hitting. It works.

[70stroker]

Originally Posted by argonaut

That's because the 2wd bbc mount brackets place the motor about 2-1/2 to 3" further forward. 4wd never came with a big block and all small blocks were further back for better weight distribution.

I underatand what your saying, but this same setup, same motor, valve covers, same electric fan, and on the 2wd frame i had more firwall clearence and more room between the water pump and radiator.

I agree with mud man, i think im gonna rock it, engine shouldnt flex that much

[mud.man.rj]

If your motor mounts are new and good quality it won't flex much at all and always goes towards the passengers side. All good. Sure you have more things to take care of.

[BigRed76]

Originally Posted by 70stroker

Engine has roller rockers so cant go smaler valve covers. As off now i have about 1.5 inches between water pump and electric fan so thats an option.

I think there is adequate clearence but i dont know, i think body liftis easiest but hate the front bumper situation.

Its hard to believe this motor fit fine in 2wd configuration, yet it seems so close in 4wd fashion.

Thank you and mud man for your input, i appreciate it.

Are you running a short water pump?