Jegs is at it again

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I wouldn't trust what anyone says. HP ratings are like Penis size... everyone measures it differently.

With HEI and 4 barrel intake/carb anything in the 220-230 range is going to scoot these 3800 lb trucks along just fine, especially with a 3.73 or 4.11 rear. My 290hp 5.3L moves my 5,600 lb 2000 Z71 xcab just fine, and it's 1,800 lbs heavier.

Your 5.3 is rated at 290 net HP, which is close to 370 gross HP. The 260 HP is on the crate engine is the gross rating and the 195 rating is the net rating. The ratings changed from gross to net in 1972. The 350 in 1971 trucks were rated at 255 HP, but the exact same engine was rated 175 HP in 1972. The '71 engine was no stronger than the '72 in the real world.

In other words, if the Goodwrench 350 crate engine could be ordered in a new Chevy truck, it would be rated at 195 HP instead of 260 HP. Every crate engine sold is rated in gross HP because of marketing. A 260 HP engine sounds way better than a 195 HP engine.

This is why LS swaps have gotten so popular. A junkyard 290 HP 5.3 makes more power than ZZ4 crate engine, even though the ZZ4 is rated at 355 HP.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by wesmigletz

Jocko, I don't see how Jegs is responsible for this. The purchase and shipping were painless. I'm off tomorrow and will contact my local Chevy dealer's parts department and work my way up the GM chain. I'm not happy about the fisheyes and runs on the valve cover. If GM would give me two replacement valve cover decals, I would strip and re-spray the covers myself.

I'm disappointed in the quality of my engine, but I'm just about over it.

Nope, I know what you mean, it is a GM motor - perhaps starting with GM 1st is the best choice - but they MAY tell you that because you bought it from Jegs... blah blah blah. If they did, that'd be the last time I darkened their door. All I'm saying is that because you did buy it from Jegs, and they are a pretty good bunch of folks, MAYBE they would send you two correct valve covers and work out the problem with GM on their end. I'm sure GM is much more likely to send them 2 valve covers than they are to send them to you. But you never know, I would start at GM 1st as you mentioned, and give the "chance to excel"....

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by wesmigletz

Jocko, I don't see how Jegs is responsible for this. The purchase and shipping were painless. I'm off tomorrow and will contact my local Chevy dealer's parts department and work my way up the GM chain. I'm not happy about the fisheyes and runs on the valve cover. If GM would give me two replacement valve cover decals, I would strip and re-spray the covers myself.

I'm disappointed in the quality of my engine, but I'm just about over it.

I'd venture to say that way more than half of the people buying these engines are going to put aftermarket valve covers on them anyway, and most people that aren't, don't care too much about the way the engine looks anyway. I've sanded runs out of factory paint valve covers many times, seen orange overspray on stuff, and seen numerous crooked Tonawanda and engine emissions decals from back in the day. These things are rolling down an assembly line, so it kinda is what it is. I'm not saying its right, but its been happening a long time, and it goes unnoticed by most people.

I'd personally use it as a good excuse to paint it orange so it would look correct in the truck anyway, but that's just me!

Heck, GMC couldn't even get the "C" straight on those four eyed freaks!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=255310

***Calm down GMC folks, it was a joke! ***

[wesmigletz]

I called Jegs on Friday. They were helpful, but said it was a GM matter and gave me a number to call. The GM number starts at a call center for Ford, Chrysler, and GM. The phone cue was a PITA. After a couple hours of trying I got through to the warranty people and got a case number and was referred to my local Chevy dealer parts dept.

The warranty line they go through was down. They took my info and said they would call on my behalf to place the claim. If approved, I will get a pair of valve covers and return mine to them, bringing my original invoice with me.

We'll see how it pans-out. My time would have been better spent placing a want to buy ad.

[wesmigletz]

If this was an engine I built or pulled in a junk yard, I would clean it up and do a proper orange paint job. I never envisioned that for this engine. I just want my engine bay to look like a basically stock, original truck with a replacement engine.

If I were to paint the engine orange, it wouldn't stop there. I would need to drill the china wall for a vent and run an in-line PCV and run a factory 4 BBL intake with a fill tube.

[Hugh Mongus]

Installed my JEGS engine this weekend. (Insert crappy cell phone pic)



Started up easily. I did the 30 minutes break-in at 2000 rpms. I noticed during the 30 minutes my rear tubes on my headers were glowing red. I hadn't ever noticed them getting that hot before. I drove it around the block and it seemed to run fine. I will put 30 miles on it this week and change the oil.

[wesmigletz]

Jason, engine looks good. Glowing headers is usually caused by the timing being retarded, or you are very lean at your break-in rpm.

I would set your total timing to 38* with the vacuum advance disconnected. If your initial timing ended up between 10 and 18* and you are not pinginging, I would leave it alone. If you ping at cruise, limit your vacuum advance.

[Hugh Mongus]

Originally Posted by wesmigletz

Jason, engine looks good. Glowing headers is usually caused by the timing being retarded, or you are very lean at your break-in rpm.

I would set your total timing to 38* with the vacuum advance disconnected. If your initial timing ended up between 10 and 18* and you are not pinginging, I would leave it alone. If you ping at cruise, limit your vacuum advance.

I set the initial at 10* as stated in the instructions. After the 30 minutes, I set the timing to 12* and set the idle. After that I went to the house and crashed.

I am going to pull the plugs and see what they look like tonight. I didn't change anything on the carb. I may need to change the metering rods. It is nice having a motor that runs smooth though.

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by Hugh Mongus

I set the initial at 10* as stated in the instructions. After the 30 minutes, I set the timing to 12* and set the idle. After that I went to the house and crashed.

I am going to pull the plugs and see what they look like tonight. I didn't change anything on the carb. I may need to change the metering rods. It is nice having a motor that runs smooth though.

That's about what I would have done... got it running and took a nap.

I think you're on the right track with the carb being lean given your initial timing. Other than that, I the only thing I can think of is that with the engine being at true TDC, the indicator line on the balancer and the 0* mark on the timing tab not lining-up... I once had a mis-alignment and had adjusted my timing based on the tab, rather than marking the tab to the engine's TDC. I chased my tail for a while figuring that one out.

BTW, what application (or part number) is the fuel filter for? I like how you did your fuel pump to carb line.

[Hugh Mongus]

That's a rail mounted fuel filter for most GMs. I bought it at Oreillys. I hate those cheesy see through filters. The only draw back is you have to buy the "repair" kit with the fuel line because the filter requires that little O-ring tip. (I'm sure there is a technical name, I just don't know it) The kits are $14 each.(x2)

[67ChevyRedneck]

I personally wouldn't do anything more than paint the motor until the warranty is up. *Supposedly* removing/swapping the valve covers is the same as "opening the motor" and voids the warranty. At the very least, if you ever have a problem, put them back on before bringing it in

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by wesmigletz

BTW, what application (or part number) is the fuel filter for? I like how you did your fuel pump to carb line.

Originally Posted by Hugh Mongus

That's a rail mounted fuel filter for most GMs. I bought it at Oreillys. I hate those cheesy see through filters. The only draw back is you have to buy the "repair" kit with the fuel line because the filter requires that little O-ring tip. (I'm sure there is a technical name, I just don't know it) The kits are $14 each.(x2)

You can use AC Delco GF652 (25171792) fuel filter. It has the normal 3/8” steel inverted flare fitting on each side. No O-rings to deal with.

[Hugh Mongus]

Good to know. Thanks Lee.

[Hugh Mongus]

By the way, the next step in the break-in instructions say to drive (a certain way) 500 miles then I'm free to do whatever I want. Curious if most people actually baby these things for 500 miles? It will take me a while to accrue 500 miles.

[1968C20CST]

Originally Posted by Hugh Mongus

By the way, the next step in the break-in instructions say to drive (a certain way) 500 miles then I'm free to do whatever I want. Curious if most people actually baby these things for 500 miles? It will take me a while to accrue 500 miles.

Have you broke it in yet? Are you happy with the engine? Looks good!

[Hugh Mongus]

Originally Posted by 1968C20CST

Have you broke it in yet? Are you happy with the engine? Looks good!

I changed out the break-in oil and have racked up around 200 miles so far. It runs pretty good. I am definitely happy with it. Easy swap and well worth the money IMO.