Rico F. - 1954 3600 Long bed S10/LS conversion

[tlorber]

Thank you for the response. Very helpful.
By the way, on that harness, did you use the original junction blocks, or did you simplify them to smaller blocks?

[gregg pellicer]

Skymangs can you explain the process you used to color match the tailgate to rest of truck. It look's great.
Gregg

[HULK64]

I have tried to find it but haven't seen it. What size wheels and tires are those?

[skymangs]

Tlorber; all the junction blocks get removed when I re-work a harness. The stand alone. Fuse block is the only junction made. I delete all the un-necessary pins from the PCM plugs as well.

Gregg; color matching is always a challenge. I start beet sanding the area with 220, (so the new paint will stick). Then I spray a contrasting base coat (in this case beige). Then I try to match the existing color on the truck. While the paint is still wet, use a wire brush, 80 grit DA Sander, screw driver, steel wool, etc. To scuff, scar, damage the top and second coats of paint. Once that is dry, I use a carbide burr to create "rusty areas" of shiny steel. Then sand in 400 grit wet to remove the shine and age the paint. Feel free to use a propane touch to darken ares, but be careful on large flat surfaces, the heat will warp sheet metal.
Once this has dried, use 16oz of hydrogen peroxide, 2oz of white vinegar, and 1/2 TBSP of salt mixed into a spray bottle to mist the bare metal. It will start rusting immediately. Let that dry, then repeat. The more times you spray, the darker the rust gets. Then use pentrol to seal you new rust.

Patina is really like art, just play with it till you like it!

Hulk64; wheels are from "Wheel Vintiques". 15x7 up front and 15x8 rears. Tires are 235/60R15 and 255/60R15

[gregg pellicer]

Skymangs what penetrol product do you use?I looked online and they make several products. Thank's for responding.
Gregg

[HULK64]

Thanks for the tire/wheel sizes. DId you end up using spacers?

[oossuuu754]

Go to this link on my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=19 there is a pic of the pentrol container. You can get this at any Lowes. If you want you can read thru the sections and see how I aged the paint on Cecil.

[gregg pellicer]

Originally Posted by oossuuu754

Go to this link on my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=19 there is a pic of the pentrol container. You can get this at any Lowes. If you want you can read thru the sections and see how I aged the paint on Cecil.

Thanks Shawn

[skymangs]

Thanks for catcing that one Shawn.

Hulk, I did use spacers. The rear end is a 4x4, 1.5" spacers on the rear and 2" on the front.

[HULK64]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Thanks for catcing that one Shawn.

Hulk, I did use spacers. The rear end is a 4x4, 1.5" spacers on the rear and 2" on the front.

Perfect- thanks!

Sorry, last question and I will leave you alone! What was the backspacing you used?

[skymangs]

Cant recall backspace, they were standard "vintiques" 15x7 and 15x8's though.

[b-mac]

Skymangs,
Thank you for all of you knowledge and wisdom. I have read many of your posts and they have helped my tremendously.
My question is about how you prep the frame of these trucks for paint. I'm aware of the GM wax, and I know you use muriatic acid on the cab mount areas, but how do you prep the rest of the frame for paint? And then what paint do you use?
I notice you painted the stock gas tank on this truck.
Same method as the frame?

[skymangs]

First of all thanks b-mac. For prep (after the Muriatic acid) I scrape/wire wheel any caked on grease, especially the front suspension., then power wash. I remove any loose paint, etc. Then I paint in spray on bed liner. Works great, looks great, lasts forever.

[steve aleve]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Here's how the radiator and fan setup came out. VERY tight. there is about 1" of clearance between the water pump pully and the fan motor. The fan is controlled by the PCM, and comes on at 200 degrees.

Skymangs,

I want to make sure I understand this correctly, So the reason the radiator sits so high is to clear the AC? If one were to do a similar build without the ac and a 19x22 radiator, it should resemble more closely the stock relationship to the shroud. Is this correct?

Thanks!

[skymangs]

Yes, I needed to be able to clear the clutch assembly. Normally the 19x22 will sit just about even with the core support.

[steve aleve]

So I am doing a 5.3 with a speedway radiator the same as you have done here (just slower and less nice ha ha) and I wanted to see what you did about the radiator hose sizes not matching up between the water pump and radiator. Mine has 1-1/4 on the upper water pump side and 1-1/2" on the upper radiator side. also 1-1/2" on the lower water pump side and 1-3/4" on the lower radiator side. I have found splicers at JTR that seem like they would work but they are about 25 bucks each.

Thanks

[skymangs]

Call me tomorrow, I've got the hose numbers written down in the shop. 7602670624.

~Sarge

[b-mac]

Would one of you gentlemen mind posting those here when you get them figured out? I'm going to have the same issue.
Posted via Mobile Device

[skymangs]

No problem.

[steve aleve]

So the radiator hose part numbers are as follows:

Upper:
22248
or
22227

Lower:
21045

Lower will require a straight water neck. See below.

Straight water neck Part number 2671 from Mr. Gasket on Ebay.

Thanks!!!!

[skymangs]

You bet Steve. I should go over and post this in my S10 swap thread as well.