my 63 upgrade

[1strong63]

hi all, business is going crazy, i can't work as much as i'd like to on the truck but a few progress anyway.
the speedometer was working but not the odo. when i dismantle it i found this lillte plastic gear broke in half, it seems to be pretty hard to fix or build a new one so any good soul will have one for me?
of course i'll pay for everything!
i'd really like to get the odo back to working order.
thanks!

it's a 63 C-10

[1strong63]

hi guys, i'm sorry maybe the post is not enought fascinating or is too slow, maybe i don't behave properly. so i just want to aplogize if i've done something bad or wrong.
i need your help to finish my truck, more pics are coming next week cause i'll have some days off.
cheers

[Johnny_Lamebridge]

Originally Posted by 1strong63

the speedometer was working but not the odo.

I have the same problem with mine. I've seen metal and plastic gears on ebay, but not specifically for a C10. Maybe someone can provide a correct part number.

Take a look at this old thread... some info here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...er#post6846321

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[1963c-10]

They are available on ebay....look up chevy speedometer worm gear

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-19...be0ed5&vxp=mtr

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Johnny_Lamebridge

I have the same problem with mine. I've seen metal and plastic gears on ebay, but not specifically for a C10. Maybe someone can provide a correct part number.

Take a look at this old thread... some info here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...er#post6846321

*

thanks i'll give it a go with ebay now, in fact i cannot before cause i didn't know how those piece was called .worm gear ah!

i'll try classic gauge and cluster too.
cheers

[1strong63]

finally after 1 month i get the final part of my order from truck shop! so i play a bit with the steering that evening.
the steering joints were kind enought to loosen nearly by hand! a bit of cleaning and paint and they'll look like new.

the first inner and outer joints came 2 months ago and as they were out of stock they ship the others i received this week just to find that the outers are not the same.

they also didn't ship the correct brake booster. when i call them they just told me that if i'm down with that they got two words for me: suck it.

this is the last time they'll see my money.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

They are available on ebay....look up chevy speedometer worm gear

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-19...be0ed5&vxp=mtr

thanks for the link but this one seems to be longer and with an intermediate and supplementary gear than mine.

[1strong63]

i don't know if i can do that or not but i'll use another guy pic to show what i need (i'm sorry).

this is the stuff that is on the towel.

[1strong63]

sorry again for the slow progress but work have been crazy and you'll never hear me complain about that!

i found the gear for my odo on e-bay it was quoted for a chevrolet but up to 57 not after.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131277217758...R:3160&vxp=mtr

it's a perfect match. it was a little tricky to put it back. you have to remove a centering plug, tried to gently hammer it out but finish by smack it harder and harder until it's out.



put back the speedo cable and turn it with a drill and it's ok.

[1strong63]

the engine and tranny are in for stay now. i had put the engine in and out ten times to check clearance etc...

i had a lot of dramas with the tranny, the rear bearing retainer didn't fit properly to the case and as soon as you do the final torque on the bolts you cannot spin the output shaft by hand. check a lot of things like bearing size, bearing clip size, bearing and clip housing in the retainer, just to find that this is the speedogears was not a matching pair.

the engine have the proper tilt (even if i don't have all the weight back at the front but i have some margin with the trans crossmember) and i had to cut a bit sheetmetal for the 465 to fit.
i also got stupid by putting the pilot bearing the wrong way so i had to buy a new one.




the front wheels are in the specification for camber, caster and toe, can't be more happy.

[1strong63]

just a problem when i went to put the fuel pump here is what i found in the housing.
the block is a mark IV i do have the correct fuel pump from summit. but this bolt is blocking all the housing. i'm scared to put it out and have something to fall out of the engine.
i have sum-250002-1.
i cannot put the pump.


maybe it's the push rod that i have to push up to put the pump in?

[Johnny_Lamebridge]

Originally Posted by 1strong63

just a problem when i went to put the fuel pump here is what i found in the housing.
the block is a mark IV i do have the correct fuel pump from summit. but this bolt is blocking all the housing. i'm scared to put it out and have something to fall out of the engine.
i have sum-250002-1.
i cannot put the pump.


maybe it's the push rod that i have to push up to put the pump in?

You are correct, that is the fuel pump push rod. It should slide freely in it's bore. Push it in with your fingers, and use some grease to keep it from sliding out while you attach the fuel pump.

[1strong63]

thanks!

[forestb]

There should be a bolt hole in the front of the block that lines up with the side of the rod. It is there so that you can put a bolt in that will hold that rod up once you have pushed it up. But the bolt has a narrow tip with no threads on it. I made my own. Be careful not to tighten to much if you go that wrought. or you can use the grease like Johnny_Lamebridge said.

[The Rocknrod]

[1strong63]

thanks all of you guys. of course the plugs to hold the rod didn't come loose!
it was pretty fun to put the pump in. i trick it with a saw blade bend to fit and keep the push rod up while you insert the pump.
i plumb the lines. i keep the rubber hose from the hard line in the chassis to the pump then use AN.
honestly i don't like how it turns out, summit didn't have black fittings only this blue and red stuff.
i should have gone with the rubber. i'll go back to it i think.
the carb is a 750cfm, manual choke, vaccum secondary the air filter was free with the carb!

[1strong63]

i finally find a way to put my alt. i fab this. i like how it fit in the chassis.

[1strong63]

and i start to put back the front end. i rebuild myself my radiator with a HD core that is thicker and more efficient, hope it'll be enought for the BB.
it start looking at a truck again.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by 1strong63

the big block is also much heavier than the small so i plan to use 3/4 ton truck coils.
does anyone already do the swap or tell me what you guys using when swaping in BB on half ton truck.
does anyone think this stuff will work?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...20Air%20Shocks
cheers

I used 3/4 ton springs in the front. Its what Moog suggested for the bb in my 63. They sell a BB spring for the 63+ frames and they are just that....a 3/4 ton spring.

Looks like your big block sits pretty much where mine is. About 1" forward of the rear bolt holes. Looking good!!!!

[1strong63]

hi, in fact the truck didn't sag as much as i tought with the BB only 1/4 of an inch compared to the SB.
the shocks are still pretty strong but as i rebuild the front end i'll se in the future how the coils are holding and sag or not with the BB weight when everything will be in place.
i had to drill new holes betwen the ones available in the frame and in the crossmember to place the engine a bit more to the front to clear the PS valve cover from the body.
i still don't have a lot of space, hope the engine mounts are stiff enought to hold the engine properly.
thanks for confirming 3/4 ton coils are the way to go!

[1963c-10]

Those are POL engine mounts. They are designed for the SB or BB application. I'm using them also. They seem to be the go to mount for a BB in a pre 67 frame. Downside is the frame trimming as we both found out, but they will work great for you.

[1strong63]

i've spend hours to see what you've done/is doing on your two trucks, that's insane! congratulations.

[1strong63]

hi, i'd like to know if both ports you see here have an accurate oil pressure.
the small block had a pick up at the top of the intake manifold so i guess you read the "engine oil pressure". at the location around the oil filter maybe you'll read more "oil pump pressure" than "engine" (this is the best i can explain my tought sorry).
the BB didn't have port at the intake.

anyway as i still want to run the oil pressure factory gauge and have add a stack gauge just to make sure i wonder if i can use on port for the stock gauge and the second one for the stack gauge.

when the BB was on the boat both ports were used the on on the left for the sender unit and the on on the right for another sender but don't know exactly why it was used for.

i think this is also a port behind the alternator but i cannot run a line to it.

[1strong63]

again need help with the water temp.
i saved the sender on the SB and put it back on top of the manifold (on the SB it was in the DS head, on the side). this is also to keep the factory gauge.
but i have an additional stack gauge to to be more accurate. with my heater pick up i don't have any port free, someone know if i can use this one on the side of the head?



thanks for sharing.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Those are POL engine mounts. They are designed for the SB or BB application. I'm using them also. They seem to be the go to mount for a BB in a pre 67 frame. Downside is the frame trimming as we both found out, but they will work great for you.

same engine mounts and we do have the same headers too!