49, bagged, 6.0, patina, the works

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by 84blaze

If you want a quality steering set up I'd recommend the Little Shop MFG No-toe kit.

S10 NO NOTCH / NO TOE STEERING SYSTEM

I'm running it on my static S10 Blazer and Bagged 49 3100 on S10 chassis. It's a great piece.

Curious what advantages this setup has? Is it a clearance issue or fixing a bump steer problem?
Thanks for the link...

[Dave_The_BMXER]

I think bumpsteer and toe correction is the big advantage. However I couldn't figure out if it was needed with reasonable sized wheels.

I found out about it literally right after my front end arrived (of course) but since I'm on a clipped AD frame and to lay running board actually doesn't max out the suspension I'm going to hope it all sort of works itself out in the wash....

[84blaze]

Originally Posted by Dave_The_BMXER

I think bumpsteer and toe correction is the big advantage. However I couldn't figure out if it was needed with reasonable sized wheels.

I found out about it literally right after my front end arrived (of course) but since I'm on a clipped AD frame and to lay running board actually doesn't max out the suspension I'm going to hope it all sort of works itself out in the wash....

Only needs 16" Wheels

[84blaze]

Originally Posted by Desert1957

Curious what advantages this setup has? Is it a clearance issue or fixing a bump steer problem?
Thanks for the link...

It fixes bump steer and toe in/out issues throughout travel. It also eliminates the need to notch for tie rods.

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by 84blaze

It fixes bump steer and toe in/out issues throughout travel. It also eliminates the need to notch for tie rods.

OK, Good to know when I finally start my project.

[gigamanx]

Subscribed! Any reason you went with the 3 link over the 4 link rear from Thorbros? I was considering the same but wasn't sure of the difference between the two.

[NickL]

Originally Posted by HULK64

I was planning on running the Proforged S10 steering setup- but I am running drop spindles and close to the same drop setup as you. What's the deal with notchless tie rods? Are they necessary with drop spindles?

Everyone has pretty much nailed it. Clearance/to help with bumpsteer. Some updates:

Heres a photo. This is without the motor in the truck and an undersized tire. So you can imagine what it will look like with a larger tire and weight on the frame.



Injectors re-oringed/cleaned. Intake manifold assembled and back on with a new valley pan gasket and knock sensors. S10V8.com 1 5/8 short tubes on.





New water pump, steering box, idler arm, centerlink. Just waiting for my MMW tie rods.



Again but showing the new Speedway GM metric tubular uppers



Took some measurements and decided the 69 Mustang EFI tank from Tanks Inc. would work great. Fabbed some basic mounts and got it in today. Just need to bolt it up and trim the front lip a bit to clear the shocks when aired all the way up.



I'll install the pump tomorrow but am going to wait to run the lines/corvette FPR until after boxing the frame.

[youngrodder]

Nice progress...

Marc

[84blaze]

Originally Posted by NickL

Took some measurements and decided the 69 Mustang EFI tank from Tanks Inc. would work great. Fabbed some basic mounts and got it in today. Just need to bolt it up and trim the front lip a bit to clear the shocks when aired all the way up.



I'll install the pump tomorrow but am going to wait to run the lines/corvette FPR until after boxing the frame.

Thats the exact tank I just bookmarked a couple days ago. What do you plan to do for the fill neck? Flexible rubber hose?

[ChuckDriver]

Cool build!

[NickL]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Subscribed! Any reason you went with the 3 link over the 4 link rear from Thorbros? I was considering the same but wasn't sure of the difference between the two.

No real reason other than I can't remember them offering a bolt on 4-link back then. Maybe they did haha, been quite some time.

[NickL]

Originally Posted by 84blaze

Thats the exact tank I just bookmarked a couple days ago. What do you plan to do for the fill neck? Flexible rubber hose?

It will depend on whether I make the bed floor lift or not. If I do, ill keep the bed floor untouched and have a short filler neck that'll be hidden under the floor and accessible once the bed floor is lifted.

If I don't, i'll probably graft a fuel door into the bed floor and use flexible rubber hose up to it.

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Cool build!

Thanks!

[NickL]

Cab at the blasters



Made some boxing plates from cardboard and had my local machine shop draw them up and cut them on the plasma table. Welding these in soon.



Picking the cab up



Back on the frame for a final test fit now that the parking brake is removed. Then braced before panel replacement



MMW notches tie rods installed



Can finally steer this thing in one piece



Thats it for now. My buddy is making great progress on the cab panel replacements. Ill have some photos soon.

[reaper71]

Looking good, Any plans for the cover on the intake?
Meaning smoothing it out etc..

Mark.

[NickL]

Originally Posted by reaper71

Looking good, Any plans for the cover on the intake?
Meaning smoothing it out etc..

Mark.

Nope, just leaving it. Im more for the OEM styling of it.

[gigamanx]

How far down did you strip the cab before blasting? I think mine will need it but i don't know how much I'm supposed to take off. Do they primer after for you to stop flash rust?

[NickL]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

How far down did you strip the cab before blasting? I think mine will need it but i don't know how much I'm supposed to take off. Do they primer after for you to stop flash rust?

Completely stripped the interior and dash of everything. All glass. Doors off. I only had the interior, firewall, and bottom blasted as I'm keeping the patina. And yes, it was primed after. The metal work is happening currently and will be primed again once complete.

[84blaze]

Cool idea on blasting just the interior.

Cant wait for more progress!

[gigamanx]

Thanks for the response, that's a huge help.

[STOCKISH]

Looks killer man, keep it up!

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'm not a patina guy but I LIKE your truck. My Dad had two AD trucks when I was a kid. One was an early truck with true door handles that turn down. It was light green with primered fenders. The other was a later one that was the same Forrest green yours is but it was IMMACULATE....so he sold it because he was a brick mason and didn't want it to get b!tched up. This was the early 60's so the truck wasn't that old.

I'd love to have your truck when it's complete.

[NickL]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Thanks for the response, that's a huge help.

No problem!

Originally Posted by STOCKISH

Looks killer man, keep it up!

Thank you!

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

I'm not a patina guy but I LIKE your truck. My Dad had two AD trucks when I was a kid. One was an early truck with true door handles that turn down. It was light green with primered fenders. The other was a later one that was the same Forrest green yours is but it was IMMACULATE....so he sold it because he was a brick mason and didn't want it to get b!tched up. This was the early 60's so the truck wasn't that old.

I'd love to have your truck when it's complete.

Awesome story. I honestly have no idea how long i'll keep the truck once its complete. I know it will eventually be for sale, just depends on how much I enjoy it once its done. I have way too many toys and have been thinking about going back to school and sadly this one would be the one to fund that. We'll see.

Some more progress.

[big_moss]

Looking good man

[STOCKISH]

Nice progress man. Floors looking good

[NickL]

More repairs







New inner cab corners and rear section of the floor. Both sides of the floor installed/inner cowls.



My buddy says the cab will be primed and ready Saturday so thats the plan for pickup. I am not having him replicate the patina on the new panels YET because the cab/wheels/inner fenders as well as other bits and pieces will all be traveling back to him for paintwork anyways.

I still need to burn in the boxing plates and then I'm ready for the frame to be blasted and painted. Really from there, its all downhill assembly.